The relationship between cylinder head airflow and horsepower is very nearly linear. You can replace the intake manifold, exhaust and camshafts, but ultimately, airflow through head determines engine power. Only replacing or re-working the cylinder head will allow your engine to reach its ultimate potential.
Procedures:
1. Lay an old intake manifold gasket over your head's intake manifold mounting surface, then spray the assembly with a very light coat of white spray paint. When you remove the gasket you'll find a white ring around the port, which indicates the size of the ridge between the head intake port and manifold runners. Remove the area covered with white paint, and smooth the ridge to about an inch into your intake port. This gasket-matching procedure is fairly simple, and is the only one that you can perform with the head still on the car. If you're gasket-matching without removing the head, stuff a rag into your intake port with a dowel rod to keep metal shavings out of the cylinders. Just don't forget to remove it.
2. Repeat the gasket-matching procedure on the exhaust ports, but leave a 1/8-inch of white-painted material around the port. This step effectively forms an expansion chamber in the exhaust manifold, which creates a slight vacuum to pull expanding gases out of the cylinder.
3. Smooth the bowl area, which is the pocket behind the valve head. The bowl area contains an approximately 1/16-inch-wide ridge where the valve seat mates to the head. This ridge is a huge disruption to airflow, especially at low valve lifts where the airflow must stick close to the bowl wall to go into the cylinder. Run a cylindrical carbide cutter bit or grinding stone around the inside of the bowl area to blend the valve seat into the head. Do not polish this area completely smooth; the slight roughness in the bowl area will create a small amount of turbulence to keep fuel atomized as it enters the cylinder.
4. Remove between 3/16 an 1/8-inch material from the apex of the short-side turn, where the port starts to bend down toward the valve. Then, smooth the removed area about an inch and a half into the floor of port toward the intake port entrance. Smooth the short-side turn into the bowl area in a likewise manner, and repeat on the exhaust side.
Read More »»
Monday, December 27, 2010
Sebring Convertible Stalling Problems
Chrysler Sebring Convertibles are reliable vehicles but they reportedly can develop stalling problems at around 90,000 miles. After the car has stalled and the driver waits a few moments, the Sebring can start again and run well. This is a problem that can be difficult to diagnose. The problem is related to the flow of gasoline to the engine, possibly involving the fuel pump, according to Edmunds.com.
Check the Fuel Pump
Check to see if the fuel pump is functioning correctly. If the engine is starved for gas, it will stall.
Cause of the Stalling
Look for corrosion on the outside of the fuel tank. If the tank is corroded, pieces of metal can flake off the interior of the tank and clog the intake to the fuel pump. This debris and the resulting blockage can starve the engine of gas and will cause your Sebring to stall.
Solution to Stalling Problems
Replace the fuel pump if it is not functioning correctly. Check the fuel filter for blockage from debris as a result of fuel tank corrosion. If the intake is clogged with debris, the fuel line must be flushed and a new gas tank installed. Read More »»
Check the Fuel Pump
Check to see if the fuel pump is functioning correctly. If the engine is starved for gas, it will stall.
Cause of the Stalling
Look for corrosion on the outside of the fuel tank. If the tank is corroded, pieces of metal can flake off the interior of the tank and clog the intake to the fuel pump. This debris and the resulting blockage can starve the engine of gas and will cause your Sebring to stall.
Solution to Stalling Problems
Replace the fuel pump if it is not functioning correctly. Check the fuel filter for blockage from debris as a result of fuel tank corrosion. If the intake is clogged with debris, the fuel line must be flushed and a new gas tank installed. Read More »»
Friday, December 24, 2010
Change a Dipstick Tube
The dipstick tube is what holds the dipstick -- a metal rod that measures the amount of fluid inside the vehicle -- in place. You can usually find the tube near the engine block. If you need to replace the dipstick tube because of normal wear, breakage or rust development, you can complete the process easily with a little automotive knowledge and items that can be found around your home. Doing the job yourself instead of taking your car to an automotive repair center will save you time and money.
Procedures:
1. Make sure your car is parked and the engine is cool. Open the hood to access the engine.
2. Find the dipstick. Look for a large ring that you pull to take the dipstick out of the tube, usually located in the engine well around the exhaust manifold.
3. Unscrew the bolts that are on the bracket on the dipstick tube with a wrench. Slide the bracket off of the tube.
4. Pull the ring and remove the dipstick from the tube. Find the clips that are connecting the tube to the oil container below it.
5. Release the clips by pressing them both down simultaneously. Use a small piece of plastic or another small item to hold the clips open. Wedge the plastic in between the clips.
6. Fill the tube with paper towels, tissues or napkins to catch any small parts that might fall through. Grip the tube and pull the tube up with pliers. Do not pull too hard, but continue until the tube is released.
7. Place the new tube into the car. Make sure it is in the same position as the old dipstick tube. Snap the clips firmly into place.
8. Replace the bracket and bolts with a wrench. Turn the bolts until they are snug. Put the dipstick back into the new tube. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Make sure your car is parked and the engine is cool. Open the hood to access the engine.
2. Find the dipstick. Look for a large ring that you pull to take the dipstick out of the tube, usually located in the engine well around the exhaust manifold.
3. Unscrew the bolts that are on the bracket on the dipstick tube with a wrench. Slide the bracket off of the tube.
4. Pull the ring and remove the dipstick from the tube. Find the clips that are connecting the tube to the oil container below it.
5. Release the clips by pressing them both down simultaneously. Use a small piece of plastic or another small item to hold the clips open. Wedge the plastic in between the clips.
6. Fill the tube with paper towels, tissues or napkins to catch any small parts that might fall through. Grip the tube and pull the tube up with pliers. Do not pull too hard, but continue until the tube is released.
7. Place the new tube into the car. Make sure it is in the same position as the old dipstick tube. Snap the clips firmly into place.
8. Replace the bracket and bolts with a wrench. Turn the bolts until they are snug. Put the dipstick back into the new tube. Read More »»
Replace the Valve Cover Gasket on the 1998 Toyota Camry
Replace the valve cover gasket on the 1998 Toyota Camry as soon as you notice it leaking. There are several types of engines used in the 1998 Camry. In some of them, you must remove the spark plug wires and plugs to get the valve cover off. The valve cover gasket kit should come with new grommets for the spark plug holes -- if not, purchase new grommets separately. Do not rely on the old grommets, as oil could leak onto the spark plugs and affect the running of the vehicle.
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, using the appropriate wrench. Set it aside, ensuring that it does not touch metal. Mark any wiring connectors and vacuum lines that are attached to the valve cover. Unplug the connectors and vacuum lines. They will vary for the different engines in the 1998 Camry.
2. Pull the PCV hose out of the valve cover to disconnect it. If your particular engine has the spark plugs through the valve cover, mark the spark plug wires. Remove the wires, then remove the plugs, using the spark plug socket, ratchet and 6-inch extension.
3. Remove the six nuts and seal washers from the cover, starting with the middle valve cover-retaining bolts and working in a crisscross pattern. Remove the valve cover. If it doesn't come off easily, don't pry it off -- tap it with the rubber mallet to break the seal.
4. Clean the gasket-mounting surfaces of the valve cover and the head, using the brush and rags. Remove all old gasket material. Spread a thin layer of RTV silicone on the valve cover's mounting surface. Fit the gasket onto the valve cover and press it into the RTV. If the engine has spark plug wires that go through the valve cover, remove the old grommets on the spark plug holes and insert new ones.
5. Install the valve cover and tighten the six nuts to 65 inch-pounds of torque, working from the center out, in a crisscross pattern. If you removed the plugs and wires, reinstall them, ensuring that the wires go into the proper spark plug hole, as marked before you took them off. Reconnect the PCV hose and all wiring connectors and vacuum lines. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, using the appropriate wrench. Set it aside, ensuring that it does not touch metal. Mark any wiring connectors and vacuum lines that are attached to the valve cover. Unplug the connectors and vacuum lines. They will vary for the different engines in the 1998 Camry.
2. Pull the PCV hose out of the valve cover to disconnect it. If your particular engine has the spark plugs through the valve cover, mark the spark plug wires. Remove the wires, then remove the plugs, using the spark plug socket, ratchet and 6-inch extension.
3. Remove the six nuts and seal washers from the cover, starting with the middle valve cover-retaining bolts and working in a crisscross pattern. Remove the valve cover. If it doesn't come off easily, don't pry it off -- tap it with the rubber mallet to break the seal.
4. Clean the gasket-mounting surfaces of the valve cover and the head, using the brush and rags. Remove all old gasket material. Spread a thin layer of RTV silicone on the valve cover's mounting surface. Fit the gasket onto the valve cover and press it into the RTV. If the engine has spark plug wires that go through the valve cover, remove the old grommets on the spark plug holes and insert new ones.
5. Install the valve cover and tighten the six nuts to 65 inch-pounds of torque, working from the center out, in a crisscross pattern. If you removed the plugs and wires, reinstall them, ensuring that the wires go into the proper spark plug hole, as marked before you took them off. Reconnect the PCV hose and all wiring connectors and vacuum lines. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Read More »»
Install a 2001 Ford Taurus Valve Cover Gasket
The Ford Taurus engine uses two different methods to seal the valve cover to the engine head. Some models use a pre-cured reusable gasket, while other models use silicone sealant to form a bead of sealing material. On models that are equipped with plastic valve covers, either the silicone or gasket may be used; on models that have aluminum valve covers, silicone must be used. Use the type of gasket material that originally was used by the factory on your engine
Procedures:
1. Unhook the negative battery clamp; this is the one with the (-) on it.
2. Remove any hoses or wires that are on top of the valve cover. Label them so you can put them back in the right location.
3. Remove the valve cover bolts by using the wrench to turn them counterclockwise. Remove the valve cover from the engine. Scrape off any old gasket material with the scraper.
4. Install the new gasket or new silicone sealer and allow it to dry for a few minutes. Put the valve cover back on the engine.
5. Tighten the valve cover bolts by turning them clockwise with the wrench. Replace the wires and hoses. Connect the negative battery clamp and start the engine checking for leaks. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Unhook the negative battery clamp; this is the one with the (-) on it.
2. Remove any hoses or wires that are on top of the valve cover. Label them so you can put them back in the right location.
3. Remove the valve cover bolts by using the wrench to turn them counterclockwise. Remove the valve cover from the engine. Scrape off any old gasket material with the scraper.
4. Install the new gasket or new silicone sealer and allow it to dry for a few minutes. Put the valve cover back on the engine.
5. Tighten the valve cover bolts by turning them clockwise with the wrench. Replace the wires and hoses. Connect the negative battery clamp and start the engine checking for leaks. Read More »»
Troubleshoot a Blown Head Gasket with No Signs
Blown head gaskets are expensive repairs, and are most often caused by an overheated engine. Some compact engine designs, however, are prone to head gasket failure under normal operating conditions. These are generally four-cylinder engines that have higher compression, aggressive fuel injection systems and are geared towards performance. These modifications stress the engine integrity and a common failure point is the head gasket, because the gasket is unable to contain the added boost inside of the cylinders.
Procedures:
1. Raise the hood of the car and use a socket wrench to remove all the spark plugs. Label the wires with masking tape if necessary to orient the wires for reinstallation.
2. Screw in a compression gauge in one of the cylinders. Have an assistant crank the engine over and read the gauge. Note the reading and compare it to the manufacturer's specifications. Small engines that are geared for performance will read as high as 150 pounds per square inch (psi).
3. Continue this process with each cylinder. Two adjacent cylinders with a blown head gasket will share the same, low reading number, and may not reach 100 psi. If the readings are as low as 125 psi on a small, performance engine, the engine won't run. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Raise the hood of the car and use a socket wrench to remove all the spark plugs. Label the wires with masking tape if necessary to orient the wires for reinstallation.
2. Screw in a compression gauge in one of the cylinders. Have an assistant crank the engine over and read the gauge. Note the reading and compare it to the manufacturer's specifications. Small engines that are geared for performance will read as high as 150 pounds per square inch (psi).
3. Continue this process with each cylinder. Two adjacent cylinders with a blown head gasket will share the same, low reading number, and may not reach 100 psi. If the readings are as low as 125 psi on a small, performance engine, the engine won't run. Read More »»
Remove the Exhaust Manifold Gasket on a Buick LeSabre
An exhaust leak can be frustrating. While exhaust leaks are often difficult to identify, worn exhaust manifold gaskets are often the problem. Removing worn exhaust manifold gaskets and replacing them with new gaskets on a Buick LeSabre is a small, inexpensive project for a do-it-yourself mechanic. With a few tools and a bit of time, you can remove failing exhaust manifold gaskets and replace them with new gaskets to increase the performance of your Buick LeSabre.
Procedures:
1. Allow the engine and exhaust manifold to completely cool.
2. Disconnect any tubing from the exhaust manifold.
3. Loosen and remove the exhaust manifold bolts. If the bolts are resistant, use a penetrating oil to loosen them.
4. Remove the exhaust manifold and gaskets from the engine. The exhaust manifold in a Buick LeSabre is typically secured with two studs and two nuts.
5. Clean the gasket areas on both the engine and exhaust manifold with a scraper and wire brush to remove any remaining material from the old gasket. A clean, smooth surface ensures proper installation of the new gaskets. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Allow the engine and exhaust manifold to completely cool.
2. Disconnect any tubing from the exhaust manifold.
3. Loosen and remove the exhaust manifold bolts. If the bolts are resistant, use a penetrating oil to loosen them.
4. Remove the exhaust manifold and gaskets from the engine. The exhaust manifold in a Buick LeSabre is typically secured with two studs and two nuts.
5. Clean the gasket areas on both the engine and exhaust manifold with a scraper and wire brush to remove any remaining material from the old gasket. A clean, smooth surface ensures proper installation of the new gaskets. Read More »»
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