How to Troubleshoot Cummins Engine Problems

Cummins engines have had problems, especially the 1999, 2000 and 2001 models. In these years, the Cummins 5.9-liter engine was prone to cracks in the side block. According to Lock-N-Stitch, Inc. there was no recall of the engine. Cracks in the engine caused by thermal expansion stress decreased the flow of coolant. Essentially, the design of the engine restricted the flow of coolant to the cylinders, cylinder head, and lower walls and outer walls of the engine block. Engage in a routine troubleshooting schedule if you own a vehicle with a Cummins engine.

Procedures:
1. Look for white smoke coming from the tail pipe. White smoke indicates that the coolant and the oil have mixed in the engine.
2. Check the color and consistency of the oil in the Cummins engine. If the oil is thick, milky and light brown in color, then the engine is blown.
3. Listen to the sound of the engine as it fires up. Oil fouled spark plugs can cause a misfire sound. Worn pistons cause a rapid ticking sound.
4. Tune up the engine if it is smoking and running rough, but run a cylinder balance test beforehand. If the cylinders are not running correctly, a tune up won't help the problem. A cylinder balance test determines if the cylinders in the engine are producing equal amounts of power. Use an engine analyzer, attach the cables to the spark plug, push the button on the analyzer and the spark plug will short out. Print out the engine speed reading. If the engine speed changes, there is an issue with the cylinder. This test also will determine which cylinders have bad valves and compression rings.
5. Conduct an engine misfire test. Misfire codes are in the P0300 range. Random misfire is a PO300 code. This test determines if an individual cylinder is not firing. A P0301 code is a misfire of cylinder 1 and a P0308 is a misfire in cylinder 8. The engine analyzer is a handheld device that attaches to the diagnostic harness of the vehicle's computerized system. The vehicle will run rough, lack acceleration power and get poor gas mileage.
6. Attach the engine analyzer to the diagnostic harness of the vehicle's computerized system to determine if there is a secondary ignition failure. From the secondary ignition pattern print-out, you can read where the vehicle is having air/fuel issues and mechanical faults. If it indicates a problem, you may need to replace the ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and/or rotor. Get a secondary ignition pattern from the dealership showing how the engine needs to fire. Compare your reading to that of a normal secondary ignition pattern to determine if the engine is firing correctly at the point of turning the engine over. Read More »»

Chevrolet Colorado Engine Problems

The Chevrolet Colorado is a mid-sized pickup truck first released in 2004. The Chevy Colorado features numerous engine options that range in size from 2.8-liters to 5.3-liters. Engine problems are common with specific models and may occur if Chevrolet suggested maintenance isn't followed.

2004-05 Engine Misfire
According to Consumer Guide Automotive, the 2004 and 2005 Chevy Colorado are known to misfire. An illuminated check-engine light will accompany the misfiring engine. The misfiring is caused by compromised exhaust valve springs. Replacing the exhaust valve springs will fix the problem.
2004-06 Fuel Gauge Issue
The 2004, 2005 and 2006 Colorado fuel gauge sensor and indicator are known to misread fuel levels. If the engine does not turn on and the fuel gauge reads full, the tank may actually be empty of gas. Models known for this problem include all California models and those with a 4-cylinder or 5-cylinder engine.
Suggested Maintenance
The 2009 Chevrolet Colorado owner manual suggests an exhaust system inspection every 25,000 miles. After reaching 100,000 miles, spark plug replacement is suggested. Inspection of the engine accessory drive belt is suggested at 150,000 miles. Read More »»

Information on Chevy 2 Nova Six Cylinder Engines

The Chevy II Nova was a mid-sized economy car introduced by the Chevrolet Division of General Motors in 1962. By 1965 the Nova was developed into a V8 powered muscle car. Throughout its production the Chevy II Nova was available with a fuel-efficient six-cylinder engine.

194 Hi-Thrift
The 1962 Chevy II Nova used a Hi-Thrift in-line six-cylinder engine with wedge shaped combustion chambers. It displaced 194.37 cubic-inches and produced 120 horsepower with 177 ft-lbs of torque. The motor ran on regular gasoline and used a single-barrel Rochester carburetor. It was descended from the stovebolt 194, GM's first straight-six engine introduced in 1929.
230 Turbo-Thrift
By 1964 the Chevy II Nova was available with a 230 cubic-inch Turbo-Thrift straight-six engine. The overhead valve motor had a cast iron alloy block with hydraulic valve lifters. GM developed the engine from the earlier 235 six-cylinder by decreasing its stroke to 3.25 inches. The 230 generated 140 horsepower with 220 ft-lbs of torque.
250 Turbo-Thrift
By 1969, Chevy Novas could be bought with a Turbo-Thrift 250 cubic-inch straight six engine. The third-generation engine was naturally aspirated and used a Rochester downdraft one-barrel carburetor. It produced 145 horsepower with 230 ft-lbs of torque. The crankshaft rode on seven main-bearings. The engine had a distributor and coil ignition system. Read More »»

Remove a 1965 Mustang Engine

When restoring a 1965 Ford Mustang, the engine should come out, even if you don't need to rebuild it. It is easier to complete body work on the engine compartment when the engine is out of the vehicle. You might also take the engine out to rebuild it or to clean the outside of the engine so that you can have the perfect show car. Some hot-rodders also remove the engine in favor of a larger engine, but the narrow engine compartment limits your options, unless you are prepared to do some body-altering work.

Procedures:
1. Mark the hood bolts and the hood (matchmark) so that you don't have to spend an hour trying to adjust the hood when you put it back on. Slide a drain pan under the radiator petcock. Loosen the petcock and allow the radiator to drain. Slide another drain pan under the oil pan. Remove the oil pan bolt, using the appropriate socket, and allow the crankcase to drain. Dispose of the fluids in an appropriate manner.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the air duct, using the screwdriver, then remove the air ducts. Remove the air box, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the battery, negative cable first, using the appropriate wrench. Follow the battery cables down to the starter and the ground, then remove the cables, using the appropriate socket.
3. Slide an empty drain pan under the transmission lines at the radiator, then disconnect the transmission lines at the radiator, if your Mustang is an automatic, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps.
4. Break the fan bolts loose using the appropriate socket but do not remove them. Loosen the adjusting bolts for the air compressor (if equipped), the alternator and the power steering pump (if equipped). Push each accessory toward the engine to loosen tension on the belt. Lift the belts off the engine.
5. Unplug the wiring harness connectors for the air compressor and the alternator. On the alternator, use a wrench to remove the nut holding the power wire onto the alternator. Remove the power wire. Leave the hoses for the air compressor and the power steering pump attached to each accessory and move the accessories out of the way.
6. Unbolt the air conditioning condenser from the body but do not remove the lines. Tip the condenser forward, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. If the engine is a 428 CJ, 429 Super CJ, Boss 302 or Boss 429, disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the engine oil cooler, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the hold-down bracket, then lift the oil cooler out of the engine compartment.
7. Remove the fan bolts, fan and upper pulley, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump and the carburetor spacer, using a screwdriver. Remove the wiring from the starter, using the appropriate wrench. Unbolt and remove the starter, using the appropriate socket. Remove the accelerator rod at the carburetor, using a screwdriver. If you have a six-cylinder engine, remove the choke control cable at the carburetor, using a screwdriver.
8. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump on the side of the block, using a screwdriver, then block the line by sticking a bolt in it. Remove the wires from the coil, using a small wrench. Pull the coil wire off the coil tower. Unplug the oil pressure and temperature sending units.
9. Remove the clutch retracting spring, clutch equalizer shaft and arm bracket at the underbody rail, if your Mustang is a manual shift. Remove the arm bracket and the equalizer shaft, using the appropriate socket.
10. Raise the car, using a floor jack. Support it with jack stands. Remove the flywheel housing upper retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. The bolts are removed through the access holes in the floor pan. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the right and left engine mounts at the underbody brackets. Remove the flywheel housing cover. If the Mustang is a manual shift, remove the flywheel housing lower retaining bolts.
11. Disconnect the throttle valve vacuum line at the intake manifold, if the car is an automatic. Remove the converter housing lower retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. Lower the car off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the transmission and jack it up high enough to touch the transmission.
12. Attach the engine hoist to the engine by sliding bolts through the hoist chains and screwing the bolts into the bolt holes in the head. Double check that all wires and hoses are disconnected. Remove all engine mounts, using the appropriate socket. Lift the engine a few inches. Check again to ensure that all wires and hoses have been disconnected. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment and put it on an engine stand. Read More »»

BBC Engine Builder Specs

The Big Block Chevy (BBC) engine has a history that began with a bang--or at least a lot of excitement. In 1963, the Chevrolet team showed up at the Daytona 500 track and proceeded to blow the competition away. Their secret weapon was a big block engine that had a displacement of 427 cubic inches. On that day, a legend was born. The builder specs of the BBC engine help explain why it is still a force to be reckoned with.
General Description
The BBC engine is a V8 with a displacement of 540.7 cubic inches.
Bore, Stroke and Compression
The bore of the big block is 4.5 inches, while the stroke is 4.25 inches. The compression of the engine is 9.90:1.
Clearance
The clearances of the Chevy big block are tight: the main bearing clearance is .0025 inches, the thrust clearance of the crankshaft is .0065 inches, the rod bearing is .0022 inches and the rod side clearance is .018 inches.
Valve Spring
The seat pressure of the valve spring is 142 pounds at 1.940, the open pressure is 402 pounds at 1.250, and the coil-bind is 1.130. Read More »»

Get Engine Oil Off Cement

Vehicles often leak oil and other substances, usually onto a garage floor or driveway. These oil stains can be unsightly and messy. Oil stains cannot be scrubbed from concrete. Instead, many options are available to draw the oil or grease out of the floor. Cleaning up oil spills can be inexpensive and take little time.

Procedures:
1. Put on protective goggles and gloves.
2. Crush 1 cup of cat litter into a powder. Try using a mortar and pestle to crush the litter. You can also place the litter in a sealed plastic bag, place the bag in a magazine and use a hammer to crush the litter.
3. Mix 1 ounce of trisodium phosphate and 1 cup of water in a bucket. Add the crushed litter. Mix with a paint stirrer until a paste forms.
4. Spread the paste on the oil stain with a putty knife and wait for it to dry (about 24 hours). Scrape the paste from the concrete floor with the putty knife.
5. Wet the area with water. Scrub with a nylon brush.
6. Pour cat litter or sand over the area that had the oil spill. Spread it over the entire stain. The litter will absorb any excess oil.
7. Sweep the litter into a dustpan after a couple of days. Dispose in a trash can. Read More »»