The Ford Taurus engine uses two different methods to seal the valve cover to the engine head. Some models use a pre-cured reusable gasket, while other models use silicone sealant to form a bead of sealing material. On models that are equipped with plastic valve covers, either the silicone or gasket may be used; on models that have aluminum valve covers, silicone must be used. Use the type of gasket material that originally was used by the factory on your engine
Procedures:
1. Unhook the negative battery clamp; this is the one with the (-) on it.
2. Remove any hoses or wires that are on top of the valve cover. Label them so you can put them back in the right location.
3. Remove the valve cover bolts by using the wrench to turn them counterclockwise. Remove the valve cover from the engine. Scrape off any old gasket material with the scraper.
4. Install the new gasket or new silicone sealer and allow it to dry for a few minutes. Put the valve cover back on the engine.
5. Tighten the valve cover bolts by turning them clockwise with the wrench. Replace the wires and hoses. Connect the negative battery clamp and start the engine checking for leaks.
Read More »»
Showing posts with label ford. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ford. Show all posts
Friday, December 24, 2010
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Remove a 1965 Mustang Engine
When restoring a 1965 Ford Mustang, the engine should come out, even if you don't need to rebuild it. It is easier to complete body work on the engine compartment when the engine is out of the vehicle. You might also take the engine out to rebuild it or to clean the outside of the engine so that you can have the perfect show car. Some hot-rodders also remove the engine in favor of a larger engine, but the narrow engine compartment limits your options, unless you are prepared to do some body-altering work.
Procedures:
1. Mark the hood bolts and the hood (matchmark) so that you don't have to spend an hour trying to adjust the hood when you put it back on. Slide a drain pan under the radiator petcock. Loosen the petcock and allow the radiator to drain. Slide another drain pan under the oil pan. Remove the oil pan bolt, using the appropriate socket, and allow the crankcase to drain. Dispose of the fluids in an appropriate manner.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the air duct, using the screwdriver, then remove the air ducts. Remove the air box, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the battery, negative cable first, using the appropriate wrench. Follow the battery cables down to the starter and the ground, then remove the cables, using the appropriate socket.
3. Slide an empty drain pan under the transmission lines at the radiator, then disconnect the transmission lines at the radiator, if your Mustang is an automatic, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps.
4. Break the fan bolts loose using the appropriate socket but do not remove them. Loosen the adjusting bolts for the air compressor (if equipped), the alternator and the power steering pump (if equipped). Push each accessory toward the engine to loosen tension on the belt. Lift the belts off the engine.
5. Unplug the wiring harness connectors for the air compressor and the alternator. On the alternator, use a wrench to remove the nut holding the power wire onto the alternator. Remove the power wire. Leave the hoses for the air compressor and the power steering pump attached to each accessory and move the accessories out of the way.
6. Unbolt the air conditioning condenser from the body but do not remove the lines. Tip the condenser forward, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. If the engine is a 428 CJ, 429 Super CJ, Boss 302 or Boss 429, disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the engine oil cooler, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the hold-down bracket, then lift the oil cooler out of the engine compartment.
7. Remove the fan bolts, fan and upper pulley, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump and the carburetor spacer, using a screwdriver. Remove the wiring from the starter, using the appropriate wrench. Unbolt and remove the starter, using the appropriate socket. Remove the accelerator rod at the carburetor, using a screwdriver. If you have a six-cylinder engine, remove the choke control cable at the carburetor, using a screwdriver.
8. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump on the side of the block, using a screwdriver, then block the line by sticking a bolt in it. Remove the wires from the coil, using a small wrench. Pull the coil wire off the coil tower. Unplug the oil pressure and temperature sending units.
9. Remove the clutch retracting spring, clutch equalizer shaft and arm bracket at the underbody rail, if your Mustang is a manual shift. Remove the arm bracket and the equalizer shaft, using the appropriate socket.
10. Raise the car, using a floor jack. Support it with jack stands. Remove the flywheel housing upper retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. The bolts are removed through the access holes in the floor pan. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the right and left engine mounts at the underbody brackets. Remove the flywheel housing cover. If the Mustang is a manual shift, remove the flywheel housing lower retaining bolts.
11. Disconnect the throttle valve vacuum line at the intake manifold, if the car is an automatic. Remove the converter housing lower retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. Lower the car off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the transmission and jack it up high enough to touch the transmission.
12. Attach the engine hoist to the engine by sliding bolts through the hoist chains and screwing the bolts into the bolt holes in the head. Double check that all wires and hoses are disconnected. Remove all engine mounts, using the appropriate socket. Lift the engine a few inches. Check again to ensure that all wires and hoses have been disconnected. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment and put it on an engine stand. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Mark the hood bolts and the hood (matchmark) so that you don't have to spend an hour trying to adjust the hood when you put it back on. Slide a drain pan under the radiator petcock. Loosen the petcock and allow the radiator to drain. Slide another drain pan under the oil pan. Remove the oil pan bolt, using the appropriate socket, and allow the crankcase to drain. Dispose of the fluids in an appropriate manner.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the air duct, using the screwdriver, then remove the air ducts. Remove the air box, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the battery, negative cable first, using the appropriate wrench. Follow the battery cables down to the starter and the ground, then remove the cables, using the appropriate socket.
3. Slide an empty drain pan under the transmission lines at the radiator, then disconnect the transmission lines at the radiator, if your Mustang is an automatic, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps.
4. Break the fan bolts loose using the appropriate socket but do not remove them. Loosen the adjusting bolts for the air compressor (if equipped), the alternator and the power steering pump (if equipped). Push each accessory toward the engine to loosen tension on the belt. Lift the belts off the engine.
5. Unplug the wiring harness connectors for the air compressor and the alternator. On the alternator, use a wrench to remove the nut holding the power wire onto the alternator. Remove the power wire. Leave the hoses for the air compressor and the power steering pump attached to each accessory and move the accessories out of the way.
6. Unbolt the air conditioning condenser from the body but do not remove the lines. Tip the condenser forward, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. If the engine is a 428 CJ, 429 Super CJ, Boss 302 or Boss 429, disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the engine oil cooler, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the hold-down bracket, then lift the oil cooler out of the engine compartment.
7. Remove the fan bolts, fan and upper pulley, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump and the carburetor spacer, using a screwdriver. Remove the wiring from the starter, using the appropriate wrench. Unbolt and remove the starter, using the appropriate socket. Remove the accelerator rod at the carburetor, using a screwdriver. If you have a six-cylinder engine, remove the choke control cable at the carburetor, using a screwdriver.
8. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump on the side of the block, using a screwdriver, then block the line by sticking a bolt in it. Remove the wires from the coil, using a small wrench. Pull the coil wire off the coil tower. Unplug the oil pressure and temperature sending units.
9. Remove the clutch retracting spring, clutch equalizer shaft and arm bracket at the underbody rail, if your Mustang is a manual shift. Remove the arm bracket and the equalizer shaft, using the appropriate socket.
10. Raise the car, using a floor jack. Support it with jack stands. Remove the flywheel housing upper retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. The bolts are removed through the access holes in the floor pan. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the right and left engine mounts at the underbody brackets. Remove the flywheel housing cover. If the Mustang is a manual shift, remove the flywheel housing lower retaining bolts.
11. Disconnect the throttle valve vacuum line at the intake manifold, if the car is an automatic. Remove the converter housing lower retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. Lower the car off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the transmission and jack it up high enough to touch the transmission.
12. Attach the engine hoist to the engine by sliding bolts through the hoist chains and screwing the bolts into the bolt holes in the head. Double check that all wires and hoses are disconnected. Remove all engine mounts, using the appropriate socket. Lift the engine a few inches. Check again to ensure that all wires and hoses have been disconnected. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment and put it on an engine stand. Read More »»
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Ford F-10 Specifications
Ford F-series third and fourth generation trucks were built in Brazil between 1957 and 1966. Both the third and fourth generation designs were derived from the basic F-10, which was first created in 1952. The new names given to these successive generations were F-100 (built in 1953) and F-250 (in 1961). The F-10 has a hood flush to the chrome fenders as explained by Car Seek, a new chrome grille and its traditional separate fender body design became known as "flare-side."
Weight
The F-10 weighs half a ton without cargo. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is 4,000 to 5,000 pounds. GVWR is the maximum allowable total mass of the vehicle when loaded, including the weight of the vehicle, the fuel, passengers and trailer weight, as described by Hoffman White.
Body Style
The F-10 is a two-door pick-up truck with en enclosed cabin and a rear loading section for cargo. The fourth generation F-10, built between 1961 and 1966, has a two-door and a four-door option. The 1961 re-style brought single headlights back to the design and also a lower, wider cab, as reported by Edmunds.
Third Generation Engine
Three different engines are available for third generation F-10 trucks, depending on the year of manufacture: the 1958 to 1960 has 223 cubic inches of displacement (CID), or 3.7L, Mileage Maker I6; the 1958 has 272 CID (4.5L) Y-Block V8; and the 1959 to 1960 has 292 CID (4.8L) Y-Block V8. Each engine has a horse power of 137hp (102kW), 173hp (129kW) and 186hp (139kW), respectively. CID is the cubic inch displacement that all the pistons sweep in a single turnover of the engine. It represents the engine's capacity and power; the higher the displacement, the more powerful and efficient the engine.
Fourth Generation Engine
Fourth generation F-10 trucks can have five different engines: the 1961 to 1964 223 CID (3.7L) Mileage Maker I6; the 1961 to 1964 292 CID (4.8L) Y-Block V8; the 1965 to 1966 240 CID (3.9L) I6; the 1965 to 1966 300 CID (4.9L) I6; and the 1965 to 1966 352 CID (5.8L) FE V8. Each engine has a horse power of 114hp (85kW), 135hp (101kW), 150hp (110kW), 170hp (130kW) and 172hp (128kW), respectively.
Drive and Build
The F-10 truck is a two-wheel drive vehicle. The 1-Beam axle is tough, according to Ford Truk. Beginning in 1964, the Ford pick-up had a 128 inch wheel-base, which continued to be included in the design until 1988. The 1964 version also has an impressive 38 pounds of insulation to muffle road noise and increase the comfort of the driver and passengers. Read More »»
Weight
The F-10 weighs half a ton without cargo. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is 4,000 to 5,000 pounds. GVWR is the maximum allowable total mass of the vehicle when loaded, including the weight of the vehicle, the fuel, passengers and trailer weight, as described by Hoffman White.
Body Style
The F-10 is a two-door pick-up truck with en enclosed cabin and a rear loading section for cargo. The fourth generation F-10, built between 1961 and 1966, has a two-door and a four-door option. The 1961 re-style brought single headlights back to the design and also a lower, wider cab, as reported by Edmunds.
Third Generation Engine
Three different engines are available for third generation F-10 trucks, depending on the year of manufacture: the 1958 to 1960 has 223 cubic inches of displacement (CID), or 3.7L, Mileage Maker I6; the 1958 has 272 CID (4.5L) Y-Block V8; and the 1959 to 1960 has 292 CID (4.8L) Y-Block V8. Each engine has a horse power of 137hp (102kW), 173hp (129kW) and 186hp (139kW), respectively. CID is the cubic inch displacement that all the pistons sweep in a single turnover of the engine. It represents the engine's capacity and power; the higher the displacement, the more powerful and efficient the engine.
Fourth Generation Engine
Fourth generation F-10 trucks can have five different engines: the 1961 to 1964 223 CID (3.7L) Mileage Maker I6; the 1961 to 1964 292 CID (4.8L) Y-Block V8; the 1965 to 1966 240 CID (3.9L) I6; the 1965 to 1966 300 CID (4.9L) I6; and the 1965 to 1966 352 CID (5.8L) FE V8. Each engine has a horse power of 114hp (85kW), 135hp (101kW), 150hp (110kW), 170hp (130kW) and 172hp (128kW), respectively.
Drive and Build
The F-10 truck is a two-wheel drive vehicle. The 1-Beam axle is tough, according to Ford Truk. Beginning in 1964, the Ford pick-up had a 128 inch wheel-base, which continued to be included in the design until 1988. The 1964 version also has an impressive 38 pounds of insulation to muffle road noise and increase the comfort of the driver and passengers. Read More »»
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Change Brake Pads on a 1995 Ford Contour
The 1995 Ford Contour was available with front-wheel disc brakes. The disc brakes were designed to employ a system, involving brake pads and metal brake rotors. The pads are responsible for squeezing the rotors to slow the vehicle during braking. Brake pads that are worn are ill-equipped to provide the stopping power necessary for safe driving. Listen for the squeal from the brake pad wear indicators, or follow the guidelines of the Ford Motor Company, and replace your Contour brake pads every 50,000 miles
Procedure:
1. Park the Contour on a relatively flat surface. Place tire blocks behind the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with the lug wrench.
2. Lift the front of the Ford with the lifting jack, and support the front axles with at least two jack stands. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels.
3. Remove the caliper pins with the 10-mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the brake assembly, and slide the two brake pads from each wheel brake caliper. Use a flat screwdriver to pry the clips on the backs of the brake pads from the caliper, if they do not easily slide free.
4. Place the C-clamp onto the caliper piston and the back side of the caliper. Open the brake bleed valve (located between the two caliper pin slots) with a 10-mm socket wrench. Place a drip pane beneath the caliper, to catch the brake fluid from the valve.
5. Squeeze the piston into the side of the caliper with the C-clamp. Remove the clamp, once the piston is fully depressed within the caliper, and close the bleed valve with the wrench.
6. Slide the new brake pads onto the sides of the caliper. Place the caliper back onto the rotor and screw in the caliper pins with the wrench. Replace the wheels onto the Contour wheel bolts, and screw on the lug nuts. Lift the car with the jack, and remove the jack stands. Move to the driver's seat.
7. Start the Ford, and press the brake pedal, repeatedly. The depressions force the caliper pistons back into the proper place against the brake pads. Pull the hood release lever, and move to the front of the car.
8. Lift the hood, and remove the master cylinder cap. The cap is situated to the right of the Contour engine. Place a funnel into the reservoir, and fill the container with DOT-3 brake fluid, as needed. Remove the funnel, and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the hood. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the Contour on a relatively flat surface. Place tire blocks behind the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with the lug wrench.
2. Lift the front of the Ford with the lifting jack, and support the front axles with at least two jack stands. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels.
3. Remove the caliper pins with the 10-mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the brake assembly, and slide the two brake pads from each wheel brake caliper. Use a flat screwdriver to pry the clips on the backs of the brake pads from the caliper, if they do not easily slide free.
4. Place the C-clamp onto the caliper piston and the back side of the caliper. Open the brake bleed valve (located between the two caliper pin slots) with a 10-mm socket wrench. Place a drip pane beneath the caliper, to catch the brake fluid from the valve.
5. Squeeze the piston into the side of the caliper with the C-clamp. Remove the clamp, once the piston is fully depressed within the caliper, and close the bleed valve with the wrench.
6. Slide the new brake pads onto the sides of the caliper. Place the caliper back onto the rotor and screw in the caliper pins with the wrench. Replace the wheels onto the Contour wheel bolts, and screw on the lug nuts. Lift the car with the jack, and remove the jack stands. Move to the driver's seat.
7. Start the Ford, and press the brake pedal, repeatedly. The depressions force the caliper pistons back into the proper place against the brake pads. Pull the hood release lever, and move to the front of the car.
8. Lift the hood, and remove the master cylinder cap. The cap is situated to the right of the Contour engine. Place a funnel into the reservoir, and fill the container with DOT-3 brake fluid, as needed. Remove the funnel, and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the hood. Read More »»
Replace 2000 Ford Windstar Brake Pads
The brakes on the 2000 Ford Windstar should be inspected regularly. Owners should look for wear and damage to the brake pads and rotors, as well as ensure there is adequate brake fluid in the vehicle, for the brakes to function properly. Ford recommends replacing the brake pads every 50,000 miles. You can choose to have the pads replaced at a brake repair shop, or you can do it yourself to save time and money
Procedure:
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with a lug wrench. Place the jack under the frame at the front of the van, and lift the front tires off the ground. Place jack stands under the axles, and lower the Ford onto the stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels. Remove the two caliper slide bolts on the back side of the right brake caliper, with a 10-mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the brake assembly, and rest it on top of the steering arm, above the brakes.
3. Pry the two brake pads from the caliper bracket with a flat screwdriver. Inspect the caliper bracket slots and rotor for damage or significant wear. Clean the area with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.
4. Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the back side of the new brake pads. Slide the pads into the caliper bracket slots.
5. Open the brake bleed valve with the 10-mm socket wrench. The valve is located between the two caliper slide bolts. Place a drip pane below the brake, to capture the brake fluid.
6. Compress the caliper piston into the side of the caliper with a C-clamp. The piston is the metal cylinder that protrudes from the inside of the caliper. Open the piston to allow for the added space of the new brake pads. Close the brake bleed valve with the wrench.
7. Replace the caliper onto the new brake pads and caliper bracket. Screw in the caliper bolts, and tighten the pins with the wrench. Replace the wheel onto the wheel bolts, and screw on the lug nuts, by hand. Lift the Windstar with the jack, and remove the jack stands. Lower the tires to the ground, and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
8. Lift the Ford Windstar hood, and remove the master cylinder cap. Place a funnel inside the brake fluid reservoir, and add new fluid, as necessary. Remove the funnel, and replace the cap. Close the hood. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with a lug wrench. Place the jack under the frame at the front of the van, and lift the front tires off the ground. Place jack stands under the axles, and lower the Ford onto the stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels. Remove the two caliper slide bolts on the back side of the right brake caliper, with a 10-mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the brake assembly, and rest it on top of the steering arm, above the brakes.
3. Pry the two brake pads from the caliper bracket with a flat screwdriver. Inspect the caliper bracket slots and rotor for damage or significant wear. Clean the area with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.
4. Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the back side of the new brake pads. Slide the pads into the caliper bracket slots.
5. Open the brake bleed valve with the 10-mm socket wrench. The valve is located between the two caliper slide bolts. Place a drip pane below the brake, to capture the brake fluid.
6. Compress the caliper piston into the side of the caliper with a C-clamp. The piston is the metal cylinder that protrudes from the inside of the caliper. Open the piston to allow for the added space of the new brake pads. Close the brake bleed valve with the wrench.
7. Replace the caliper onto the new brake pads and caliper bracket. Screw in the caliper bolts, and tighten the pins with the wrench. Replace the wheel onto the wheel bolts, and screw on the lug nuts, by hand. Lift the Windstar with the jack, and remove the jack stands. Lower the tires to the ground, and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
8. Lift the Ford Windstar hood, and remove the master cylinder cap. Place a funnel inside the brake fluid reservoir, and add new fluid, as necessary. Remove the funnel, and replace the cap. Close the hood. Read More »»
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
How to Change the Brake Pads on a Taurus
The Ford Taurus has a four-wheel disc brake system that consists of a brake master cylinder, brake lines, brake calipers, brake rotors and brake pads. When you hit the brakes, you send a mechanical force into the master cylinder, which in turn sends hydraulic fluid down the brake lines to the brake calipers. The hydraulic pressure contracts the caliper, forcing the pads against the rotors and stopping the Taurus. A byproduct of this action is brake pad wear, which eventually leads to the need to replace the brake pads. People with basic auto-repair skills can change a Taurus' brake pads in about two hours.
Shove the wheel chocks against the front and back of the left-rear tire. 1. Loosen all the Taurus' front lug nuts with the lug wrench.
2. Lift the front of the Taurus with the floor jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the car's front lug nuts and wheels manually.
3. Position the drop pan under the left-front brake assembly. Wash the brake dust off the rotor and caliper with brake cleaner.
4. Remove the Taurus' left-front caliper bolts with the socket set. Lift the caliper from the caliper bracket by hand. Pull the old pads out by hand and throw them away.
5. Wash the inside of the caliper with brake cleaner to remove the brake dust, road dirt and old grease. Lubricate the caliper slides with white lithium grease.
6. Position the Taurus' new brake pads in the caliper by hand. Lower the caliper into the left-front caliper bracket. Bolt it into place using the socket set.
7. Move to the Taurus' right-front brake assembly and repeat steps 3 through 6. Reinstall the wheels and lug nuts by hand.
8. Lower the front end off the jack stands. Tighten the front lug nuts to 85 foot-pounds with your torque wrench. Move the wheel chocks before driving the Taurus. Read More »»
Shove the wheel chocks against the front and back of the left-rear tire. 1. Loosen all the Taurus' front lug nuts with the lug wrench.
2. Lift the front of the Taurus with the floor jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the car's front lug nuts and wheels manually.
3. Position the drop pan under the left-front brake assembly. Wash the brake dust off the rotor and caliper with brake cleaner.
4. Remove the Taurus' left-front caliper bolts with the socket set. Lift the caliper from the caliper bracket by hand. Pull the old pads out by hand and throw them away.
5. Wash the inside of the caliper with brake cleaner to remove the brake dust, road dirt and old grease. Lubricate the caliper slides with white lithium grease.
6. Position the Taurus' new brake pads in the caliper by hand. Lower the caliper into the left-front caliper bracket. Bolt it into place using the socket set.
7. Move to the Taurus' right-front brake assembly and repeat steps 3 through 6. Reinstall the wheels and lug nuts by hand.
8. Lower the front end off the jack stands. Tighten the front lug nuts to 85 foot-pounds with your torque wrench. Move the wheel chocks before driving the Taurus. Read More »»
Sunday, November 14, 2010
How to Replace the Rotors on a 1996 Aerostar
The Ford Aerostar brake rotor should be smooth and free of any defects. Replacing brake rotors on a Ford Aerostar is not difficult. You can easily take care of the project in your driveway, so there is no need to waste your hard-earned dollars on labor charges. The more that you use the brakes, the faster the rotors will wear and the more likely they are to be damaged. You have to inspect the rotors periodically to make sure that they stay in good condition. Brakes that are not in optimal condition are less likely to work the way they should.
Procedure:
Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Aerostar. Raise the vehicle using the jack. Place a jack stand under it and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench and pull the wheel off.
2. Loosen the retaining bolts on the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper off the mounting bracket and secure it to the strut using a wire tie. Pry the grease cup off the wheel hub using a screwdriver. Pull the cotter pin from the shaft using the pliers. Remove the castellated retaining nut from the shaft using a wrench. Remove the shaft nut with the wrench and pull off the washer. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the shaft. Pull the rotor off the wheel assembly.
3. Put the new rotor on the wheel assembly. Push the roller assembly and outer bearing cone back onto the shaft. Place the washer on the shaft. Install the retaining nut and tighten it with a wrench. Install the castellated retaining nut and tighten it with the wrench. Insert a cotter pin into the opening on the shaft and spread it apart with the pliers. Place the brake caliper on the mounting bracket and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet.
4. Put the wheel on the Aerostar and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle and lower it to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel. Read More »»
Procedure:
Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Aerostar. Raise the vehicle using the jack. Place a jack stand under it and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench and pull the wheel off.
2. Loosen the retaining bolts on the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper off the mounting bracket and secure it to the strut using a wire tie. Pry the grease cup off the wheel hub using a screwdriver. Pull the cotter pin from the shaft using the pliers. Remove the castellated retaining nut from the shaft using a wrench. Remove the shaft nut with the wrench and pull off the washer. Remove the outer bearing cone and roller assembly from the shaft. Pull the rotor off the wheel assembly.
3. Put the new rotor on the wheel assembly. Push the roller assembly and outer bearing cone back onto the shaft. Place the washer on the shaft. Install the retaining nut and tighten it with a wrench. Install the castellated retaining nut and tighten it with the wrench. Insert a cotter pin into the opening on the shaft and spread it apart with the pliers. Place the brake caliper on the mounting bracket and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet.
4. Put the wheel on the Aerostar and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle and lower it to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel. Read More »»
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