Power brakes represent one of the greatest advances in automotive braking technology. Not only do power brakes make it easier for the driver to stop the vehicle, but without the assistance of the power booster it would be practically impossible for disc brakes to be effectively used on automobiles. Any deficiencies in the performance of a power booster can seriously impair braking effectiveness, and it is important to be sure the booster is operating properly at all times. Testing the booster is a simple job that every driver can do.
Procedures:
1. Turn the vehicle engine off and pump the brake pedal a few times to deplete any remaining vacuum in the power booster. Push and hold the brake pedal down with light but steady pressure. Start the engine. The brake pedal should drop slightly, indicating that the booster is working properly.
2. Allow the engine to run at idle for a minute or two. Turn the engine off and slowly pump the brake pedal five or six times. The brake pedal should stop at a higher position with each pump, indicating that the booster is not leaking and the check valve is working properly.
3. Start the engine and allow it to run at idle for a minute or two. Push and hold the brake pedal down with light but steady pressure, and turn the engine off. Continue holding the pedal down for 30 seconds or so. If the pedal does not rise it indicates that the booster is not leaking and the check valve is working properly.
4. Test the vacuum booster check valve. Locate the vacuum booster. It is a dome shaped assembly mounted at the rear of the engine compartment on the driver's side. Now locate the flexible vacuum hose that runs from the engine intake manifold to the vacuum booster. Remove any retaining clips that hold the hose to the intake manifold connection, and slip the hose off the connection. Try to blow into the hose. If the check valve is working properly the air will not flow into the booster. Now try to suck air out of the hose. If the check valve is working properly air will flow out of the booster.
5. Connect an engine vacuum test gauge to the connection on the engine intake manifold. Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two. Check the test gauge vacuum reading. The vacuum should be at least 18 inches.
Read More »»
Showing posts with label brake. Show all posts
Showing posts with label brake. Show all posts
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Test an 88 GMC Brake Booster
The brake power booster uses vacuum generated in the engine intake manifold to amplify the force the driver exerts on the brake pedal, making the driver's job easier when slowing or stopping the vehicle. This is especially important on large vehicles like those made by GMC. Problems with the power booster can create a dangerous situation because the driver may unexpectedly need much greater effort when braking. If the braking seems to be more difficult than normal it is time to test your brake booster. Testing the booster is an easy task that every driver can do to assure herself that it is functioning properly
Procedures:
1. Park your 88 GMC and turn the engine off. Pump the brake pedal slowly five or six times to relieve any residual vacuum in the booster. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. The brake pedal should feel harder and higher than normal. Start the engine. The brake pedal should immediately drop 1/4-inch or so and it should suddenly feel normal. If your booster is not functioning properly the pedal will stay in a high position and will feel hard.
2. Let the engine idle for a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and slowly pump the brake pedal, waiting a couple of seconds between each pump. The pedal should go down to a normal position on the first pump, and then stop a little bit higher with each following pump.
3. Start the engine again and let it idle for a couple of minutes. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. Turn the engine off and continue to hold the brake pedal down for about a minute or so. The pedal should not rise during this time. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park your 88 GMC and turn the engine off. Pump the brake pedal slowly five or six times to relieve any residual vacuum in the booster. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. The brake pedal should feel harder and higher than normal. Start the engine. The brake pedal should immediately drop 1/4-inch or so and it should suddenly feel normal. If your booster is not functioning properly the pedal will stay in a high position and will feel hard.
2. Let the engine idle for a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and slowly pump the brake pedal, waiting a couple of seconds between each pump. The pedal should go down to a normal position on the first pump, and then stop a little bit higher with each following pump.
3. Start the engine again and let it idle for a couple of minutes. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. Turn the engine off and continue to hold the brake pedal down for about a minute or so. The pedal should not rise during this time. Read More »»
Saturday, November 27, 2010
Change Brake Pads Step-by-Step
The brake pads are attached to a caliper that apply pressure to the rotor to stop the vehicle. The pads wear out over time and this can cause the metal backing on the pad to scrub the rotor. The pads will not take very much time to replace once the wheels are removed.
Procedures:
1. Ensure the vehicle is parked on a flat and level surface. Set the parking brake to ensure the vehicle does not roll back.
2. Loosen the lugnuts on both front wheels with a tire tool but do not remove them. This will make removing the wheels easier when the vehicle is raised up.
3. Place a jack underneath the front crossmember of the vehicle. Raise the car high enough to place jack stands under the crossmember. Lower the vehicle on to the crossmembers.
4. Remove the lug nuts on the driver side with a tire tool. Take the wheel off the axle and place it to the side.
5. Locate the two bolts at the back of the caliper. The caliper is mounted directly over the rotor. Unscrew the two bolts with a socket wrench. Pull the caliper off by sliding it up and off the rotor.
6. Unclip the brake pads from the caliper. They will come out with a little force. Install one of the brake pads backwards in to the back of the caliper. Place a C-clamp over the old pad and the back of the caliper. Turn the handle on top of the clamp to tighten. The force will push the brake pad in to the piston. The piston will fully retract back in to the caliper. This will make installation easier on the new pads.
7. Place the new pads on to the caliper. They will clip in place once they are pushed in to place.
8. Position the caliper over the rotor. Start both bolts by hand before tightening them. Once both bolts are installed, tighten with a socket wrench.
9. Repeat to replace brake pads on the other wheel. Tighten the wheels on to the hub with a tire tool. Tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern.
10. Raise the vehicle to remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
11. Start the vehicle and allow it to idle. Pump the brake pedal to reset the calipers. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Ensure the vehicle is parked on a flat and level surface. Set the parking brake to ensure the vehicle does not roll back.
2. Loosen the lugnuts on both front wheels with a tire tool but do not remove them. This will make removing the wheels easier when the vehicle is raised up.
3. Place a jack underneath the front crossmember of the vehicle. Raise the car high enough to place jack stands under the crossmember. Lower the vehicle on to the crossmembers.
4. Remove the lug nuts on the driver side with a tire tool. Take the wheel off the axle and place it to the side.
5. Locate the two bolts at the back of the caliper. The caliper is mounted directly over the rotor. Unscrew the two bolts with a socket wrench. Pull the caliper off by sliding it up and off the rotor.
6. Unclip the brake pads from the caliper. They will come out with a little force. Install one of the brake pads backwards in to the back of the caliper. Place a C-clamp over the old pad and the back of the caliper. Turn the handle on top of the clamp to tighten. The force will push the brake pad in to the piston. The piston will fully retract back in to the caliper. This will make installation easier on the new pads.
7. Place the new pads on to the caliper. They will clip in place once they are pushed in to place.
8. Position the caliper over the rotor. Start both bolts by hand before tightening them. Once both bolts are installed, tighten with a socket wrench.
9. Repeat to replace brake pads on the other wheel. Tighten the wheels on to the hub with a tire tool. Tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern.
10. Raise the vehicle to remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
11. Start the vehicle and allow it to idle. Pump the brake pedal to reset the calipers. Read More »»
Thursday, November 25, 2010
Vented Vs. Non-Vented Brake Rotors
Your vehicle's braking system involves a fairly complex arrangement of parts. One of the most important of those parts is the brake rotor. This can be either vented or non-vented.
Brake Rotor
The rotor is the main stopping mechanism of the disc brake, which is the type of brake used in most modern cars. When the brake pedal is pushed down, the brake pads press against the rotors to stop the vehicle. The amount of stopping force applied to the rotors is proportional to the amount of pressure applied to the brake pedal.
Vented Brake Rotors
Vented brake rotors have holes and grooves drilled through them all around the perimeter of the brake. This allows for faster dissipation of heat that builds up when the brake pads act on the rotor. Vented brake rotors are most often used in large or high-speed vehicles. They are also often made out of ceramic or other strong synthetic materials.
Non-Vented Brake Rotors
Non-vented brake rotors are most commonly made of solid iron. They are better suited for smaller, slower commuter vehicles (small cars, light trucks, small vans). Non-vented brake rotors also tend to last longer than vented ones. Read More »»
Brake Rotor
The rotor is the main stopping mechanism of the disc brake, which is the type of brake used in most modern cars. When the brake pedal is pushed down, the brake pads press against the rotors to stop the vehicle. The amount of stopping force applied to the rotors is proportional to the amount of pressure applied to the brake pedal.
Vented Brake Rotors
Vented brake rotors have holes and grooves drilled through them all around the perimeter of the brake. This allows for faster dissipation of heat that builds up when the brake pads act on the rotor. Vented brake rotors are most often used in large or high-speed vehicles. They are also often made out of ceramic or other strong synthetic materials.
Non-Vented Brake Rotors
Non-vented brake rotors are most commonly made of solid iron. They are better suited for smaller, slower commuter vehicles (small cars, light trucks, small vans). Non-vented brake rotors also tend to last longer than vented ones. Read More »»
Change Front Brakes on a Vulcan 500
Brake pads are an often over-looked, yet important, part of your Kawasaki Vulcan 500, allowing you to slow or stop as quickly and safely as possible at all times. Keeping a watchful eye on the brake pads as the miles grow can prevent the pad's friction-generating material from wearing away to nothing, a situation that can damage the front brake disc as the pad's metal back plate gouges into its surface. Replacing your Vulcan's front brake pads is a basic task that does not require special training, meaning that you can do it yourself within a short period of time.
Procedures:
1. Unscrew the brake caliper bolts from the left fork leg, using a 14 mm socket. Pull the caliper away from the fork leg and off of the front brake disc.
2. Insert a flat screwdriver between the brake pads and press them back against the sides of the caliper. This will force the caliper's pistons into a full-open position.
3. Remove the pair of pull pins from the brake pad pins within the caliper's mouth, using a pair of needle-nose pliers, then pull the brake pad pins out of the caliper.
4. Pull the brake brake pads and their spring clips out of the caliper. Remove the brake pads from the spring clip before discarding them.
5. Remove any dirt and dust building within the caliper's mouth, using brake cleaner.
6. Place the new brake pads around the spring clips and slide them into the caliper. Reinsert the brake pad pins into the caliper and the brake pads. Insert the pull pins into the ends of the brake pad pins.
7. Slide the brake caliper over the front brake disc and against the left fork leg. Screw the caliper bolts into place, using the 14 mm socket.
8. Pump the front brake lever until the brake pads close completely against the front brake disc, indicated by a stiff feel at the lever. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Unscrew the brake caliper bolts from the left fork leg, using a 14 mm socket. Pull the caliper away from the fork leg and off of the front brake disc.
2. Insert a flat screwdriver between the brake pads and press them back against the sides of the caliper. This will force the caliper's pistons into a full-open position.
3. Remove the pair of pull pins from the brake pad pins within the caliper's mouth, using a pair of needle-nose pliers, then pull the brake pad pins out of the caliper.
4. Pull the brake brake pads and their spring clips out of the caliper. Remove the brake pads from the spring clip before discarding them.
5. Remove any dirt and dust building within the caliper's mouth, using brake cleaner.
6. Place the new brake pads around the spring clips and slide them into the caliper. Reinsert the brake pad pins into the caliper and the brake pads. Insert the pull pins into the ends of the brake pad pins.
7. Slide the brake caliper over the front brake disc and against the left fork leg. Screw the caliper bolts into place, using the 14 mm socket.
8. Pump the front brake lever until the brake pads close completely against the front brake disc, indicated by a stiff feel at the lever. Read More »»
Check the Brake Master Cylinder
The brake master cylinder plays a crucial role in a vehicle's stopping ability. The master cylinder is where brake fluid is stored, and brake fluid helps activate the brakes When the master cylinder begins to fail it will cause the brake pedal to feel squishy. This could lead to a failure in the brake system. Check the brake master cylinder at least once every three months for damage, wear and brake fluid level.
Procedure:
1. Clean the outside of the master cylinder with a lint-free rag. You can find the location of the master cylinder in the vehicle's owner's manual, but it is typically located in the engine compartment near the driver's side. If there is a residue of grease on the master cylinder, put some degreaser on the rag and wipe the master cylinder clean with it. Do not put the degreaser on the master cylinder directly to avoid contaminating the brake fluid.
2. Inspect the exterior of the master cylinder for leaks, cracks or holes. Pay close attention to where the hoses attach and inspect the ends of the brake lines for cracking and wear.
3. Pull the cap off of the master cylinder and clean it thoroughly with a rag. Check the level of the brake fluid. Most master cylinders will have an indicator on the side of the cylinder that marks where the fluid should reach. If there is no indicator, the fluid should be about 1/2-inch from the top of the cylinder.
4. Replace the missing brake fluid. Consult the owner's manual for instructions on what kind of brake fluid is required for the vehicle. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Clean the outside of the master cylinder with a lint-free rag. You can find the location of the master cylinder in the vehicle's owner's manual, but it is typically located in the engine compartment near the driver's side. If there is a residue of grease on the master cylinder, put some degreaser on the rag and wipe the master cylinder clean with it. Do not put the degreaser on the master cylinder directly to avoid contaminating the brake fluid.
2. Inspect the exterior of the master cylinder for leaks, cracks or holes. Pay close attention to where the hoses attach and inspect the ends of the brake lines for cracking and wear.
3. Pull the cap off of the master cylinder and clean it thoroughly with a rag. Check the level of the brake fluid. Most master cylinders will have an indicator on the side of the cylinder that marks where the fluid should reach. If there is no indicator, the fluid should be about 1/2-inch from the top of the cylinder.
4. Replace the missing brake fluid. Consult the owner's manual for instructions on what kind of brake fluid is required for the vehicle. Read More »»
Replace the Rear Brake Pads on an Xterra
Replacing the brake pads on your Nissan Xterra is not hard to do. You can expect it to take you about 30 minutes to change the pads on each wheel. Friction is how the brake pads and rotors stop your Xterra. This same friction also wears out the brake pads. How often they need to be changed depends on how much you use the brakes. If you do a lot of driving on the highway, your brakes will last longer than if you do a lot of city driving. When you change the brake pads, inspect the brake rotors to see if you have to change them as well.
Procedures:
1. Park the Xterra on a level, paved surface and turn off the engine. Siphon about ½ of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Raise the back end of the Xterra with an automobile jack on the side you are starting with. Place a jack stand under the SUV and raise it to the frame. Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench and pull the wheel off the SUV.
2. Loosen the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper down and away from the brake rotor. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Insert the piston tool into the caliper. Turn the handle on the tool until it pushes the caliper piston into the housing.
3. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper. Push the caliper up and onto the brake rotor. Tighten the caliper bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the Xterra and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stand from under the SUV and lower the vehicle to the ground with the jack. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder to bring it to the proper level. Pump the brakes until the pedal is firm to seat the brake pads on the rotors. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park the Xterra on a level, paved surface and turn off the engine. Siphon about ½ of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Raise the back end of the Xterra with an automobile jack on the side you are starting with. Place a jack stand under the SUV and raise it to the frame. Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench and pull the wheel off the SUV.
2. Loosen the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper down and away from the brake rotor. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Insert the piston tool into the caliper. Turn the handle on the tool until it pushes the caliper piston into the housing.
3. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper. Push the caliper up and onto the brake rotor. Tighten the caliper bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the Xterra and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stand from under the SUV and lower the vehicle to the ground with the jack. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder to bring it to the proper level. Pump the brakes until the pedal is firm to seat the brake pads on the rotors. Read More »»
Monday, November 22, 2010
Change the Brakes on a Caravan
Dodge Caravan uses two different braking systems to help you stop your minivan. The front brakes are disc brakes that include a brake rotor, a caliper and two brake pads. The back brakes are drum brakes that consist of two brake shoes and a large metal drum that fits over the shoes. The process for replacing the different brake systems differ greatly
Getting Started
1. Open the hood and remove the cap from the master cylinder.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on all four tires using the tire iron supplied with the caravan.
3. Place a jack under the frame directly behind the front driver's tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the frame. Repeat this process with the passenger side front.
4. Place a jack under the frame directly in front of the driver's side rear tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the jack stand. Repeat this process with the passenger side rear.
5. Remove the lug nuts and pull all four tires off the Caravan.
Front Brakes
1. Remove the two bolts that secure the caliper to the axle assembly. Pull the rotor off the brake caliper.
2. Place a pair of pliers on the back brake pad on the caliper and squeeze the piston into the caliper to make room for the thicker brake pads. Hang the brake caliper from the suspension using a wire tie.
3. Pry the cap off the hub with a small screwdriver, remove the nut that secures the rotor to the hub using a socket and ratchet and then pull the rotor off the wheel hub.
4. Slide the new rotor onto the axle hub, secure it using the nut, socket and ratchet and push the hub cover back onto the end of the hub.
5. Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and place the new ones into the caliper. Slide the caliper over the rotor and secure it using the two bolts, socket and ratchet. Repeat this process with the other front disc brake.
Rear Brakes
1. Place the fingers of a drum brake puller around the drum brake and place the threaded post against the axle hub. Turn the threaded post clockwise to pull the drum off the axle hub. If you do not own a brake puller, you can rent one from an auto parts store like Napa, Autozone or Advanced Auto.
2. Remove the spring from each of the two brake shoes using a pair of pliers. Pull the brake shoes off the axle hub.
3. Place the new brake shoes onto the axle hub and secure each one using the spring and your pliers.
4. Slide the new drum onto the wheel studs and axle hub. Pound the brake drum on using a rubber mallet. Repeat this process with the other rear brake.
Finishing Up
1. Place the cap back onto the master cylinder and close the engine hood.
2. Place the wheels on the vehicle, thread the lug nuts onto the wheel studs by hand and tighten each lug nut a quarter turn using the tire iron.
3. Jack up each corner of the Caravan using the jack, remove the jack stand and lower each corner to the ground. Tighten all of the lug nuts using the tire iron.
Read More »»
Getting Started
1. Open the hood and remove the cap from the master cylinder.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on all four tires using the tire iron supplied with the caravan.
3. Place a jack under the frame directly behind the front driver's tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the frame. Repeat this process with the passenger side front.
4. Place a jack under the frame directly in front of the driver's side rear tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the jack stand. Repeat this process with the passenger side rear.
5. Remove the lug nuts and pull all four tires off the Caravan.
Front Brakes
1. Remove the two bolts that secure the caliper to the axle assembly. Pull the rotor off the brake caliper.
2. Place a pair of pliers on the back brake pad on the caliper and squeeze the piston into the caliper to make room for the thicker brake pads. Hang the brake caliper from the suspension using a wire tie.
3. Pry the cap off the hub with a small screwdriver, remove the nut that secures the rotor to the hub using a socket and ratchet and then pull the rotor off the wheel hub.
4. Slide the new rotor onto the axle hub, secure it using the nut, socket and ratchet and push the hub cover back onto the end of the hub.
5. Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and place the new ones into the caliper. Slide the caliper over the rotor and secure it using the two bolts, socket and ratchet. Repeat this process with the other front disc brake.
Rear Brakes
1. Place the fingers of a drum brake puller around the drum brake and place the threaded post against the axle hub. Turn the threaded post clockwise to pull the drum off the axle hub. If you do not own a brake puller, you can rent one from an auto parts store like Napa, Autozone or Advanced Auto.
2. Remove the spring from each of the two brake shoes using a pair of pliers. Pull the brake shoes off the axle hub.
3. Place the new brake shoes onto the axle hub and secure each one using the spring and your pliers.
4. Slide the new drum onto the wheel studs and axle hub. Pound the brake drum on using a rubber mallet. Repeat this process with the other rear brake.
Finishing Up
1. Place the cap back onto the master cylinder and close the engine hood.
2. Place the wheels on the vehicle, thread the lug nuts onto the wheel studs by hand and tighten each lug nut a quarter turn using the tire iron.
3. Jack up each corner of the Caravan using the jack, remove the jack stand and lower each corner to the ground. Tighten all of the lug nuts using the tire iron.
Read More »»
Change Back Brake Shoes on a 1999 Saturn SC1
Worn or damaged brake shoes are a safety hazard if not replaced immediately. Worn or damaged shoes will leave most the braking to the front brakes which are often unable to properly handle the total weight of the vehicle when stopping. On a 1999 Saturn SC1, the brake shoes on the back of the vehicle can be changed quickly by most backyard mechanics with a few simple tools. It is helpful to do one side at a time, using the complete assembly as a guide when installing the other side
Procedure:
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle with an automotive jack and support it with jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts with a socket wrench and pull the wheel from the wheel studs.
3. Pull the front of the brake drum assembly from the assembly.
4. Remove the adjuster spring, the dark-colored spring near the top of the drum assembly, from the front and rear brake shoes with needle-nose pliers.
5. Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and detach the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
6. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the front brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
7. Pull the front brake shoe from the backing plate.
8. Disengage the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers and remove them from the backing plate.
9. Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
10. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the rear brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
11. Pull the rear brake shoe slightly away from the backing plate to access the parking brake cable. Detach the plug on the end of the cable from the parking brake lever on the brake shoe with needle-nose pliers.
12. Detach the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe, removing the c-clip and washer with a screwdriver.
13. Place the parking brake lever on the new rear brake shoe, installing the c-clip and washer to hold the lever to the shoe.
14. Apply high-temperature grease to the six raised contact points on the inside of the backing plate.
15. Pull the end of the parking brake cable to access the plug at the end of the cable and attach it to the plug on the end of the parking brake lever in the rear brake shoe.
16. Place the rear brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
17. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
18. Place the front brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the front brake shoe hold-down spring and the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
19. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring to the front braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
20. Place the wheel on the wheel studs and install the lug nuts with a torque wrench, tightening them to 100 foot-lbs.
21. Repeats Steps 2 through 21 to replace the brake shoes on the other side of the vehicle.
22. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle with the automotive jack. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle with an automotive jack and support it with jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts with a socket wrench and pull the wheel from the wheel studs.
3. Pull the front of the brake drum assembly from the assembly.
4. Remove the adjuster spring, the dark-colored spring near the top of the drum assembly, from the front and rear brake shoes with needle-nose pliers.
5. Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and detach the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
6. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the front brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
7. Pull the front brake shoe from the backing plate.
8. Disengage the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers and remove them from the backing plate.
9. Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
10. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the rear brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
11. Pull the rear brake shoe slightly away from the backing plate to access the parking brake cable. Detach the plug on the end of the cable from the parking brake lever on the brake shoe with needle-nose pliers.
12. Detach the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe, removing the c-clip and washer with a screwdriver.
13. Place the parking brake lever on the new rear brake shoe, installing the c-clip and washer to hold the lever to the shoe.
14. Apply high-temperature grease to the six raised contact points on the inside of the backing plate.
15. Pull the end of the parking brake cable to access the plug at the end of the cable and attach it to the plug on the end of the parking brake lever in the rear brake shoe.
16. Place the rear brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
17. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
18. Place the front brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the front brake shoe hold-down spring and the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
19. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring to the front braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
20. Place the wheel on the wheel studs and install the lug nuts with a torque wrench, tightening them to 100 foot-lbs.
21. Repeats Steps 2 through 21 to replace the brake shoes on the other side of the vehicle.
22. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle with the automotive jack. Read More »»
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Change Brake Pads and Calipers
Brake pads are replaced multiple times throughout the life of a vehicle. Calipers sometimes need replacing when the piston will no longer move, or the seals have begun to leak, due to age. The caliper squeezes the brake pads against the brake rotor, causing the vehicle to slow down.
Procedure:
1. Break loose the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Lift the vehicle into the air, with the floor jack, and place jack stands under the frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the floor jack, until the vehicle sits on the jack stands. Shake the vehicle to ensure the vehicle is safely sitting on the jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts, and pull the tire away from the vehicle. Place a drain pan underneath the wheel hub, to catch the brake fluid that will be lost from the brake lines.
3. Remove the rubber brake line from the caliper with the wrench set. Loosely wrap mechanic's wire around the rubber line, and angle it upward, securing it to the suspension. Ensure the rubber line does not kink.
4. Remove the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper away from the caliper-mounting bracket, and empty any brake fluid into the drain pan.
5. Pour brake fluid into the new caliper, and attach the rubber brake line to the new caliper. Place the new brake pads into position on the new caliper, and slide the caliper into position. Secure the caliper, by installing the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet.
6. Instruct your assistant to pump the brakes, until a firm pedal is achieved. Release the bleeder valve on the new caliper with the wrench set, and allow the air and fluid to run out the valve. Instruct the helper to hold the pedal to the floor, until the bleeder valve has been tightened. Repeat the process, until no more air comes from the bleeder valve. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Break loose the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Lift the vehicle into the air, with the floor jack, and place jack stands under the frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the floor jack, until the vehicle sits on the jack stands. Shake the vehicle to ensure the vehicle is safely sitting on the jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts, and pull the tire away from the vehicle. Place a drain pan underneath the wheel hub, to catch the brake fluid that will be lost from the brake lines.
3. Remove the rubber brake line from the caliper with the wrench set. Loosely wrap mechanic's wire around the rubber line, and angle it upward, securing it to the suspension. Ensure the rubber line does not kink.
4. Remove the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper away from the caliper-mounting bracket, and empty any brake fluid into the drain pan.
5. Pour brake fluid into the new caliper, and attach the rubber brake line to the new caliper. Place the new brake pads into position on the new caliper, and slide the caliper into position. Secure the caliper, by installing the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet.
6. Instruct your assistant to pump the brakes, until a firm pedal is achieved. Release the bleeder valve on the new caliper with the wrench set, and allow the air and fluid to run out the valve. Instruct the helper to hold the pedal to the floor, until the bleeder valve has been tightened. Repeat the process, until no more air comes from the bleeder valve. Read More »»
Replacing Rear Brakes on a 2004 Infinity FX45
The 2004 Infiniti FX45 is equipped with both front and rear disc brakes. Disc brakes stop the vehicle by using a hydraulic piston to press two brake pads against a flat, metal rotor to create friction. This friction is what stops the vehicle. The friction also wears away the brake pads. Eventually, you will have to replace the pads. You'll know it's time when you begin to hear a squealing sound when you press the brake pedal. Do not ignore the sound. If you wait too long, the worn pads will damage the rotors, making the repair much more expensive.
Procedure:
1. Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle using the jack. Support both sides by lowering the vehicle onto jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts and take off the rear wheels.
3. Place a drip pan under the brake assembly. Spray the entire assembly with brake cleaner to remove the brake pad dust. Let the brakes air dry.
4. Use a socket wrench to remove the upper sliding pin bolt located on the rear of the brake caliper.
5. Rotate the cylinder body down off the rotor to access the brake pads in the torque member. Use a piece of wire to secure the cylinder body to prevent damage to the brake hose.
6. Slide the old pads out of the torque member. If necessary, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to lift the pad retainers, but be careful not to bend them.
7. Apply a coat of high-temperature silicon-based grease to the rear of the new pads. Attach the new shims to the back of the pads and put a coat of grease on the back of the shims.
8. Place the pads back in the torque member. Make sure the pad retainers are fully seated in the torque member.
9. Use a large C-clamp to press the piston back into the cylinder body.
10. Rotate the cylinder body back onto the torque member. Replace the lower sliding pin and use the torque wrench to tighten it to 32 ft.-lbs. of torque. Repeat the procedure on the other rear wheel.
11. Replace the wheels and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.
12. Drive the vehicle for a few miles. Make several quick stops from approximately 40 miles an hour. This will seat the pads and condition the surface of the brake pads for maximum efficiency. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle using the jack. Support both sides by lowering the vehicle onto jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts and take off the rear wheels.
3. Place a drip pan under the brake assembly. Spray the entire assembly with brake cleaner to remove the brake pad dust. Let the brakes air dry.
4. Use a socket wrench to remove the upper sliding pin bolt located on the rear of the brake caliper.
5. Rotate the cylinder body down off the rotor to access the brake pads in the torque member. Use a piece of wire to secure the cylinder body to prevent damage to the brake hose.
6. Slide the old pads out of the torque member. If necessary, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to lift the pad retainers, but be careful not to bend them.
7. Apply a coat of high-temperature silicon-based grease to the rear of the new pads. Attach the new shims to the back of the pads and put a coat of grease on the back of the shims.
8. Place the pads back in the torque member. Make sure the pad retainers are fully seated in the torque member.
9. Use a large C-clamp to press the piston back into the cylinder body.
10. Rotate the cylinder body back onto the torque member. Replace the lower sliding pin and use the torque wrench to tighten it to 32 ft.-lbs. of torque. Repeat the procedure on the other rear wheel.
11. Replace the wheels and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.
12. Drive the vehicle for a few miles. Make several quick stops from approximately 40 miles an hour. This will seat the pads and condition the surface of the brake pads for maximum efficiency. Read More »»
Replace the Front Brakes on a Saturn Ion
The front brakes on the Saturn Ion are not difficult to replace and can be done in your driveway. Replacing the brakes yourself can save you money, rather than taking your car to a repair garage and paying for brake repairs. It should take you about 30 minutes to replace the car's brake pads. Your brake pads may make a high-pitched squeal noise when you step on the brake pedal, indicating they need to be replaced. However, you should never depend solely on brake noise to determine when to change the pads. You should inspect them as part of a regular maintenance routine.
Procedure:
1. Park the car on level ground and turn off its ignition. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Open and secure the engine compartment hood.
2. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master brake cylinder using the turkey baster. Put the fluid in the drain pan for later recycling.
3. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Saturn with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it to the frame of the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench. Pull the wheel off the car.
4. Loosen the bottom caliper bolt with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper up and off the wheel assembly. Push the caliper piston back into the housing using the c-clamp and closing the caliper and back brake pad between the jaws until the piston seats itself. Pull the pads and retaining clips from the caliper and discard them.
5. Place the new brake pads into the caliper along with the retaining clips. Pivot the brake caliper down onto the wheel assembly. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 3 through 5 on the other wheel.
6. Replace the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Saturn. Lower the vehicle to the ground and fully tighten the lug nuts.
7. Open the vehicle's hood. Add brake fluid, as needed, to the proper operating level. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the car on level ground and turn off its ignition. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Open and secure the engine compartment hood.
2. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master brake cylinder using the turkey baster. Put the fluid in the drain pan for later recycling.
3. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Saturn with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it to the frame of the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench. Pull the wheel off the car.
4. Loosen the bottom caliper bolt with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper up and off the wheel assembly. Push the caliper piston back into the housing using the c-clamp and closing the caliper and back brake pad between the jaws until the piston seats itself. Pull the pads and retaining clips from the caliper and discard them.
5. Place the new brake pads into the caliper along with the retaining clips. Pivot the brake caliper down onto the wheel assembly. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 3 through 5 on the other wheel.
6. Replace the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Saturn. Lower the vehicle to the ground and fully tighten the lug nuts.
7. Open the vehicle's hood. Add brake fluid, as needed, to the proper operating level. Read More »»
Friday, November 19, 2010
Change the Front Brakes in a Town & Country Van
Periodic brake replacement on the Chrysler Town & Country is part of the vehicle's regular maintenance work. The frequency of the van's brake replacement depends on the amount of wear and tear on the brakes. If you drive the car occasionally, your brakes will last longer than brakes that are used frequently. You should inspect the pads and rotors as part of your regular maintenance routine.
Procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on level ground and turn off its ignition. Open and secure the the engine compartment hood. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan for recycling after the project is complete.
2. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Town and Country using the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the vehicle and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench and pull the tire off the car.
3. Loosen the bolts on the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet. Place the back of the brake caliper and the back brake pad between the jaws of the C-clamp. Close the clamp until the caliper piston is seated inside the caliper housing. Remove the brake pads from the caliper and discard them.
4. Place the new brake pads in the caliper. Put the caliper in place on the wheel assembly and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 2 through 4 on the other wheel.
5. Place the wheel back on the Town and Country. Tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the van to the ground with the automobile jack and fully tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
6. Open and secure the van's hood. Add fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder, as needed. Close the vehicle's hood.
7. Sit in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal several times until it is firm. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on level ground and turn off its ignition. Open and secure the the engine compartment hood. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan for recycling after the project is complete.
2. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Town and Country using the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the vehicle and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench and pull the tire off the car.
3. Loosen the bolts on the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet. Place the back of the brake caliper and the back brake pad between the jaws of the C-clamp. Close the clamp until the caliper piston is seated inside the caliper housing. Remove the brake pads from the caliper and discard them.
4. Place the new brake pads in the caliper. Put the caliper in place on the wheel assembly and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 2 through 4 on the other wheel.
5. Place the wheel back on the Town and Country. Tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the van to the ground with the automobile jack and fully tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
6. Open and secure the van's hood. Add fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder, as needed. Close the vehicle's hood.
7. Sit in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal several times until it is firm. Read More »»
New Brake Pads & Noise
New brake pads on an automobile commonly cause brake noise. The new pads will take some time to wear in, or "bed", and a tolerable amount of noise during this time is normal. Other noises could spell trouble; investigate them further.
Brake Bedding
New brake pads normally require about 300 miles of city driving before they become fully bedded, or worn in with the rotors. A tolerable amount of noise---usually a light squeal---is normal during this period. You can accelerate the bedding process by performing a half dozen or so rapid slowdowns from highway speed to about 20 miles per hour and then driving the car without braking for 10 minutes or so to let the brakes cool. Perform the decelerations in rapid succession so the brakes do not cool between them.
Noise-Reducing Shims
Soft, noise-reducing shims placed on the backs of the brake pads are the most common, and the most effective, means of eliminating most brake noise. Pad installation jobs often omit the shims, or make use of low-quality shims, with the result that the new pads squeal. Installing new, high quality noise-reducing shims will often fix the problem.
Brake Pad Lining Material
Brake noise can result from the installation of new pads with linings made from a harder material than the old linings. A barely audible grinding sound during low-speed braking is normal for hard linings---especially when the brakes are cold. Hard linings will more likely produce brake squeal; use so noise-reducing shims.
Brake Pad Design
High-quality brake pads often have a chamfered, or angled, edge along the leading and trailing edges of the pad lining. On low-quality pads, the lining edges usually have sharp corners. Pads with sharp corners are more prone to producing brake noise---especially during the bedding period---and a change to pads with chamfered edges will often fix the problem.
Improper Pad Installation
Improperly reinstalled calipers, or pads not positioned firmly in the calipers, will often cause vibration and noise. If the brakes are noisy immediately after servicing, double-check the brakes to ensure everything has been properly assembled. Read More »»
Brake Bedding
New brake pads normally require about 300 miles of city driving before they become fully bedded, or worn in with the rotors. A tolerable amount of noise---usually a light squeal---is normal during this period. You can accelerate the bedding process by performing a half dozen or so rapid slowdowns from highway speed to about 20 miles per hour and then driving the car without braking for 10 minutes or so to let the brakes cool. Perform the decelerations in rapid succession so the brakes do not cool between them.
Noise-Reducing Shims
Soft, noise-reducing shims placed on the backs of the brake pads are the most common, and the most effective, means of eliminating most brake noise. Pad installation jobs often omit the shims, or make use of low-quality shims, with the result that the new pads squeal. Installing new, high quality noise-reducing shims will often fix the problem.
Brake Pad Lining Material
Brake noise can result from the installation of new pads with linings made from a harder material than the old linings. A barely audible grinding sound during low-speed braking is normal for hard linings---especially when the brakes are cold. Hard linings will more likely produce brake squeal; use so noise-reducing shims.
Brake Pad Design
High-quality brake pads often have a chamfered, or angled, edge along the leading and trailing edges of the pad lining. On low-quality pads, the lining edges usually have sharp corners. Pads with sharp corners are more prone to producing brake noise---especially during the bedding period---and a change to pads with chamfered edges will often fix the problem.
Improper Pad Installation
Improperly reinstalled calipers, or pads not positioned firmly in the calipers, will often cause vibration and noise. If the brakes are noisy immediately after servicing, double-check the brakes to ensure everything has been properly assembled. Read More »»
Thursday, November 18, 2010
Change Yukon Brake Pads
The brake pads on the GMC Yukon are key components to the overall braking system. The brake pads also require the most frequent replacement. The material on the brake pads surfaces are relatively soft to provide the necessary grip on the Yukon's brake rotors during braking. The soft material wears due to the stress and heat caused by slowing the vehicle, which weighs more than two tons. You can have the brake pads replaced by a professional brake mechanic, or you can do the job yourself and save the cost of labor.
Procedure:
1. Park the Yukon on a flat surface. Turn off the engine. Pull the hood release lever under the dashboard on the driver's side of the vehicle. Move to the front of the vehicle and lift the hood. Remove the cap from the master cylinder. The master cylinder is the white reservoir with the dark gray cap to the right of the Yukon's engine. Remove half of the brake fluid from the container with a turkey baster. Place the cap onto the container but do not secure it tightly--the fluid level will need to rise during future steps.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels corresponding to the brake pads you are replacing with a lug wrench, or a 21-mm socket and breaker bar. Place the jack under the frame at the front of the SUV and lift the tires off the ground. Lower the front of the Yukon onto at least two jack stands for safety. Remove the lug nuts and take the wheels/tires off.
3. Locate the two caliper slide pins on the back side of each wheel's brake caliper. Remove the pins with an adjustable wrench or pliers. Lift the calipers from their respective caliper brackets and rest them on top of the steering arm above the wheel hub.
4. Pry the old brake pads from the slots of the caliper brackets with a flat-head screwdriver. The brackets hold the brake pads in place adjacent to the rotor. Clean the bracket slots with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.
5. Place new brake pads into the caliper bracket slots. Squeeze the caliper pistons into the side of the caliper with a C-clamp or channel-lock pliers to make room for the bulkier new brake pads. Place the caliper over the brake pads inside the caliper bracket slots and screw in the caliper slide pins.
6. Replace the wheels/tires onto the wheel bolts and screw on the lug nuts. Lift the Yukon with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the tires to the ground and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench or socket and breaker bar. Move to the engine compartment.
7. Remove the master cylinder cap and check the level of brake fluid. Place a funnel into the container and add fluid as necessary. Remove the funnel and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the Yukon's hood. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the Yukon on a flat surface. Turn off the engine. Pull the hood release lever under the dashboard on the driver's side of the vehicle. Move to the front of the vehicle and lift the hood. Remove the cap from the master cylinder. The master cylinder is the white reservoir with the dark gray cap to the right of the Yukon's engine. Remove half of the brake fluid from the container with a turkey baster. Place the cap onto the container but do not secure it tightly--the fluid level will need to rise during future steps.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels corresponding to the brake pads you are replacing with a lug wrench, or a 21-mm socket and breaker bar. Place the jack under the frame at the front of the SUV and lift the tires off the ground. Lower the front of the Yukon onto at least two jack stands for safety. Remove the lug nuts and take the wheels/tires off.
3. Locate the two caliper slide pins on the back side of each wheel's brake caliper. Remove the pins with an adjustable wrench or pliers. Lift the calipers from their respective caliper brackets and rest them on top of the steering arm above the wheel hub.
4. Pry the old brake pads from the slots of the caliper brackets with a flat-head screwdriver. The brackets hold the brake pads in place adjacent to the rotor. Clean the bracket slots with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.
5. Place new brake pads into the caliper bracket slots. Squeeze the caliper pistons into the side of the caliper with a C-clamp or channel-lock pliers to make room for the bulkier new brake pads. Place the caliper over the brake pads inside the caliper bracket slots and screw in the caliper slide pins.
6. Replace the wheels/tires onto the wheel bolts and screw on the lug nuts. Lift the Yukon with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the tires to the ground and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench or socket and breaker bar. Move to the engine compartment.
7. Remove the master cylinder cap and check the level of brake fluid. Place a funnel into the container and add fluid as necessary. Remove the funnel and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the Yukon's hood. Read More »»
Check Rear Drum Brakes
Drum brake systems were the dominant brake technology in the automotive world. With the advent of superior disc braking technology, together with the associated power-braking technology needed to make disc brakes practical, drum brakes are now found mostly on the rear wheels of less expensive vehicles. Given that many households keep an inexpensive vehicle as a second car, this means that drum brakes are still frequently encountered, and the DIY mechanic can benefit from learning how to check drum brakes.
Instructions:
1. Park the vehicle on a firm and level surface. Put automatic transmissions in park, and put manual transmissions in first or reverse gear. Do not engage the parking brake. Securely block the front wheels to prevent vehicle movement.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels about one turn each. Jack up the rear of the vehicle, and set it securely on jack stands. Completely remove the lug nuts, and pull the wheels off both sides.
3. Remove the drums from both rear brakes in such a manner that the brake not being serviced can serve as a visual reference. For some brake designs, the drum can be pulled right off the hub. For other designs, the drum might be fastened to the hub assembly by retaining screws or bolts. If so, remove the retaining fasteners before pulling the drum off. Sometimes the drum is secured with a single large hub nut that must be removed before removing the drum. If the drum is seized, firmly tap the outer shoulder of the drum with a rubber or plastic mallet to loosen it. Sometimes the brake shoes may be pressing on the inside of the drum and preventing its removal. If this is the case, be sure that the parking brake is not engaged. Next, look for a port on the backing plate with a rubber cover. Remove the cover to reveal the brake self-adjuster wheel. Reach inside with a small screwdriver, and rotate the self-adjuster to release tension on the brake shoes. This will back the shoes away from the drum.
4. Measure the thickness of the linings on the brake shoes with a finely-graduated ruler. Compare the measurement to the manufacturer's specified minimum thickness, which can be found in the vehicle's shop manual or aftermarket repair manual. These can usually be found at the local library. Check the brake shoe linings for damage or uneven wear. If the linings are damaged or worn out they should be replaced.
5. Measure the inside diameter of the brake drum in several different directions with the brake drum micrometer. If the drum is round, the diameter will be the same in all directions. Compare the measured diameter to the manufacturer's specified maximum diameter, which is usually stamped into the metal on the outside of the drum. Check the drum for cracks, deep scores, or other damage. If the drum diameter exceeds the allowable maximum, or if the drum is irreparably damaged, it should be replaced. Minor drum damage can be repaired by having the drum machined at an auto parts store.
6. Check the general condition of the brake springs, the self-adjuster mechanism, and the brake cylinder. Replace parts as needed.
7. Reassemble the brake by following the steps in reverse order. Repeat the procedure for the brake on the other side of the vehicle.
8. Lower the vehicle. Start the engine and gently push the brake pedal a few times to extend the cylinders. Try a few stops in reverse to be sure the self-adjusters are properly set. Carefully test the brake operation before driving normally. Read More »»
Instructions:
1. Park the vehicle on a firm and level surface. Put automatic transmissions in park, and put manual transmissions in first or reverse gear. Do not engage the parking brake. Securely block the front wheels to prevent vehicle movement.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels about one turn each. Jack up the rear of the vehicle, and set it securely on jack stands. Completely remove the lug nuts, and pull the wheels off both sides.
3. Remove the drums from both rear brakes in such a manner that the brake not being serviced can serve as a visual reference. For some brake designs, the drum can be pulled right off the hub. For other designs, the drum might be fastened to the hub assembly by retaining screws or bolts. If so, remove the retaining fasteners before pulling the drum off. Sometimes the drum is secured with a single large hub nut that must be removed before removing the drum. If the drum is seized, firmly tap the outer shoulder of the drum with a rubber or plastic mallet to loosen it. Sometimes the brake shoes may be pressing on the inside of the drum and preventing its removal. If this is the case, be sure that the parking brake is not engaged. Next, look for a port on the backing plate with a rubber cover. Remove the cover to reveal the brake self-adjuster wheel. Reach inside with a small screwdriver, and rotate the self-adjuster to release tension on the brake shoes. This will back the shoes away from the drum.
4. Measure the thickness of the linings on the brake shoes with a finely-graduated ruler. Compare the measurement to the manufacturer's specified minimum thickness, which can be found in the vehicle's shop manual or aftermarket repair manual. These can usually be found at the local library. Check the brake shoe linings for damage or uneven wear. If the linings are damaged or worn out they should be replaced.
5. Measure the inside diameter of the brake drum in several different directions with the brake drum micrometer. If the drum is round, the diameter will be the same in all directions. Compare the measured diameter to the manufacturer's specified maximum diameter, which is usually stamped into the metal on the outside of the drum. Check the drum for cracks, deep scores, or other damage. If the drum diameter exceeds the allowable maximum, or if the drum is irreparably damaged, it should be replaced. Minor drum damage can be repaired by having the drum machined at an auto parts store.
6. Check the general condition of the brake springs, the self-adjuster mechanism, and the brake cylinder. Replace parts as needed.
7. Reassemble the brake by following the steps in reverse order. Repeat the procedure for the brake on the other side of the vehicle.
8. Lower the vehicle. Start the engine and gently push the brake pedal a few times to extend the cylinders. Try a few stops in reverse to be sure the self-adjusters are properly set. Carefully test the brake operation before driving normally. Read More »»
2000 Golf GTI Brake Rotor Specs
Just as with any vehicle, when performing a brake job on a 2000 Volkswagen Golf GTI you must check the rotors for machining or reuse. Every manufacturer provides guidelines -- specifications -- for the dimensions of its cars' rotors. There are three main specifications that Volkswagen provides in regard to rotor dimensions: discard thickness, minimal machining and nominal thickness.
Discard Thickness
"Discard thickness" is the minimum thickness that the manufacturer recommends the rotor can be before it must be replaced. If the rotor falls below this specification, you must replace it to avoid damage to the braking system. The front rotors of the 2000 Golf GTI have a discard thickness of .394 inches with a solid rotor and .709 inches with a vented rotor. The rear rotors, for GTIs equipped with rear disk brakes, have a discard rating of .315 inches.
Minimal Machining Rating
The "minimal machining" rating is the measurement that determines if the rotor is eligible for resurfacing or machining. If the rotor's width falls below this number it is not recommended by the manufacturer to machine, or resurface, the rotor. The front rotors have a minimal machining rating of .866 inches with an FN3 caliper, and .748 inches with an FS II caliper.The rear rotors' minimal machining specification is .276 inches.
Nominal Thickness
The "nominal thickness" of a rotor is the thickness of the disk when it is new. The front rotors' nominal thickness on the 2000 Golf GTI is .472 inches for a solid rotor and .788 inches for a vented rotor. The rear rotors have a nominal thickness of .394 inches. Read More »»
Discard Thickness
"Discard thickness" is the minimum thickness that the manufacturer recommends the rotor can be before it must be replaced. If the rotor falls below this specification, you must replace it to avoid damage to the braking system. The front rotors of the 2000 Golf GTI have a discard thickness of .394 inches with a solid rotor and .709 inches with a vented rotor. The rear rotors, for GTIs equipped with rear disk brakes, have a discard rating of .315 inches.
Minimal Machining Rating
The "minimal machining" rating is the measurement that determines if the rotor is eligible for resurfacing or machining. If the rotor's width falls below this number it is not recommended by the manufacturer to machine, or resurface, the rotor. The front rotors have a minimal machining rating of .866 inches with an FN3 caliper, and .748 inches with an FS II caliper.The rear rotors' minimal machining specification is .276 inches.
Nominal Thickness
The "nominal thickness" of a rotor is the thickness of the disk when it is new. The front rotors' nominal thickness on the 2000 Golf GTI is .472 inches for a solid rotor and .788 inches for a vented rotor. The rear rotors have a nominal thickness of .394 inches. Read More »»
Change Rear Disc Brakes
Changing rear disc brakes is actually a fairly simple operation, depending upon what vehicle you are changing them on, and whether you are changing the discs, as well as the pads. Most aspects of the task are common all vehicles. Check a specific repair manual for your vehicle make and model for more specific instructions
Procedure:
1. Jack the rear of the vehicle, and secure it on jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and the rear wheel, and set them aside. Use wood or wheel chocks to secure the front tires, so they do not roll, while you are working on the vehicle. On newer vehicles, ensure that the parking brake is not set. Otherwise, it will be difficult to remove the caliper and the rear disc.
2. Brake calipers are usually held in place by two bolts.
Remove the caliper. Usually, there are two bolts, holding the caliper in place. Often, these require an Allen wrench to be removed. Carefully, lift the caliper off the disc. Remove the old brake pads, and compare them to the new ones, ensuring you have purchased the correct pads. If you are simply replacing pads, skip to Step 4. If you are having rotors turned, or are replacing them, proceed to Step 3.
3. Remove the disc. There are a few different types, and removal steps differ. Check your manual for specific directions. The slip-off type will slide off the hub, or it will be bolted to the hub and can be removed by undoing the bolts and slipping it off the spindle. Simply remove the bolts, and slide these off, replacing them with new ones.
Hub-mounted rotors require you remove the hub. Remove the bearing cap and the cotter pin. Using a large socket, remove the axle nut. Then slide the hub off the axle, using care to catch the outside bearing, as you remove it. You will need to repack bearings, and replace the bearing seal, if you are replacing the hub/rotor assembly.
Replace the hub on the axle, after the rotor has been changed. Using a torque wrench, tighten the axle nut to the manufacturer's specifications. Replace the cotter pin and the bearing cap.
4. Use a C-clamp or a press to slide the caliper pistons all the way back into the caliper, to make room for the new brake pads. Place the new brake pads in the caliper, ensuring that all the brake hardware is replaced the same way it was removed. If desired, place an anti-squeal copper grease on the back of the brake pads, before placing them in the caliper. Place the caliper back over the brake disc, and apply grease to the caliper pin (smooth and shiny) part of the brake bolts, before replacing them. Using the torque wrench, torque the caliper bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Jack the rear of the vehicle, and secure it on jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and the rear wheel, and set them aside. Use wood or wheel chocks to secure the front tires, so they do not roll, while you are working on the vehicle. On newer vehicles, ensure that the parking brake is not set. Otherwise, it will be difficult to remove the caliper and the rear disc.
2. Brake calipers are usually held in place by two bolts.
Remove the caliper. Usually, there are two bolts, holding the caliper in place. Often, these require an Allen wrench to be removed. Carefully, lift the caliper off the disc. Remove the old brake pads, and compare them to the new ones, ensuring you have purchased the correct pads. If you are simply replacing pads, skip to Step 4. If you are having rotors turned, or are replacing them, proceed to Step 3.
3. Remove the disc. There are a few different types, and removal steps differ. Check your manual for specific directions. The slip-off type will slide off the hub, or it will be bolted to the hub and can be removed by undoing the bolts and slipping it off the spindle. Simply remove the bolts, and slide these off, replacing them with new ones.
Hub-mounted rotors require you remove the hub. Remove the bearing cap and the cotter pin. Using a large socket, remove the axle nut. Then slide the hub off the axle, using care to catch the outside bearing, as you remove it. You will need to repack bearings, and replace the bearing seal, if you are replacing the hub/rotor assembly.
Replace the hub on the axle, after the rotor has been changed. Using a torque wrench, tighten the axle nut to the manufacturer's specifications. Replace the cotter pin and the bearing cap.
4. Use a C-clamp or a press to slide the caliper pistons all the way back into the caliper, to make room for the new brake pads. Place the new brake pads in the caliper, ensuring that all the brake hardware is replaced the same way it was removed. If desired, place an anti-squeal copper grease on the back of the brake pads, before placing them in the caliper. Place the caliper back over the brake disc, and apply grease to the caliper pin (smooth and shiny) part of the brake bolts, before replacing them. Using the torque wrench, torque the caliper bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. Read More »»
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
Get the Brake Pads Out of the Calliper
In an automotive disc brake system, the purpose of the brake caliper is to squeeze the brake pads against the rotating brake disc in order to create friction and slow the vehicle. In order to do this effectively, the caliper must hold the pads in such a way that they can slide easily toward and away from the disc, yet not move appreciably in any other direction. Pad vibration, which is the main cause of brake noise, must also be minimized. A variety of clip designs are used to help hold the pads in the caliper, and being familiar with the different designs will help when it comes to removing the pads during brake servicing.
Note: Brake pads are kept in the caliper in different ways, depending on the brake design.
Procedure:
1. Park the car on a firm and level surface. Put automatic transmissions in park and put manual transmissions in first or reverse gear. Set the emergency brake, or if working on the rear wheel of a car where the emergency brake is incorporated into the rear brake calipers, leave the emergency brake off. When working on a front brake, securely block both rear wheels with wheel chocks and when working on a rear brake securely block both front wheels. Loosen the lug nuts about one full turn each, jack up the car, and support the car securely on a safety stand. Finish removing the lug nuts and pull the wheel off.
2. Remove the lower of the two caliper bolts. Rotate the caliper upward around the uppermost caliper bolt until the caliper and brake pads clear the disc. Use a bungee cord or piece of cord to secure the caliper in this position. Be careful not to damage the caliper flexible brake hose.
3. Remove the brake pads from the caliper by sliding them in toward the middle of the caliper until they are released. Sometimes the outer pad will be held in place against the caliper frame by a wire clip. If so, this clip must be pried off the caliper frame before the pad can be removed. On other brake designs, there may be anti-rattle type retaining clips that resemble leaf-type springs. Normally, the pads can be slid over these clips or the clips can be pulled out with pliers to allow the pads to be removed. Take care not to damage the clips so they can be reused. Slide the old pads and shims out of the caliper. Read More »»
Note: Brake pads are kept in the caliper in different ways, depending on the brake design.
Procedure:
1. Park the car on a firm and level surface. Put automatic transmissions in park and put manual transmissions in first or reverse gear. Set the emergency brake, or if working on the rear wheel of a car where the emergency brake is incorporated into the rear brake calipers, leave the emergency brake off. When working on a front brake, securely block both rear wheels with wheel chocks and when working on a rear brake securely block both front wheels. Loosen the lug nuts about one full turn each, jack up the car, and support the car securely on a safety stand. Finish removing the lug nuts and pull the wheel off.
2. Remove the lower of the two caliper bolts. Rotate the caliper upward around the uppermost caliper bolt until the caliper and brake pads clear the disc. Use a bungee cord or piece of cord to secure the caliper in this position. Be careful not to damage the caliper flexible brake hose.
3. Remove the brake pads from the caliper by sliding them in toward the middle of the caliper until they are released. Sometimes the outer pad will be held in place against the caliper frame by a wire clip. If so, this clip must be pried off the caliper frame before the pad can be removed. On other brake designs, there may be anti-rattle type retaining clips that resemble leaf-type springs. Normally, the pads can be slid over these clips or the clips can be pulled out with pliers to allow the pads to be removed. Take care not to damage the clips so they can be reused. Slide the old pads and shims out of the caliper. Read More »»
Change Brake Pads on a 1995 Ford Contour
The 1995 Ford Contour was available with front-wheel disc brakes. The disc brakes were designed to employ a system, involving brake pads and metal brake rotors. The pads are responsible for squeezing the rotors to slow the vehicle during braking. Brake pads that are worn are ill-equipped to provide the stopping power necessary for safe driving. Listen for the squeal from the brake pad wear indicators, or follow the guidelines of the Ford Motor Company, and replace your Contour brake pads every 50,000 miles
Procedure:
1. Park the Contour on a relatively flat surface. Place tire blocks behind the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with the lug wrench.
2. Lift the front of the Ford with the lifting jack, and support the front axles with at least two jack stands. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels.
3. Remove the caliper pins with the 10-mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the brake assembly, and slide the two brake pads from each wheel brake caliper. Use a flat screwdriver to pry the clips on the backs of the brake pads from the caliper, if they do not easily slide free.
4. Place the C-clamp onto the caliper piston and the back side of the caliper. Open the brake bleed valve (located between the two caliper pin slots) with a 10-mm socket wrench. Place a drip pane beneath the caliper, to catch the brake fluid from the valve.
5. Squeeze the piston into the side of the caliper with the C-clamp. Remove the clamp, once the piston is fully depressed within the caliper, and close the bleed valve with the wrench.
6. Slide the new brake pads onto the sides of the caliper. Place the caliper back onto the rotor and screw in the caliper pins with the wrench. Replace the wheels onto the Contour wheel bolts, and screw on the lug nuts. Lift the car with the jack, and remove the jack stands. Move to the driver's seat.
7. Start the Ford, and press the brake pedal, repeatedly. The depressions force the caliper pistons back into the proper place against the brake pads. Pull the hood release lever, and move to the front of the car.
8. Lift the hood, and remove the master cylinder cap. The cap is situated to the right of the Contour engine. Place a funnel into the reservoir, and fill the container with DOT-3 brake fluid, as needed. Remove the funnel, and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the hood. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the Contour on a relatively flat surface. Place tire blocks behind the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with the lug wrench.
2. Lift the front of the Ford with the lifting jack, and support the front axles with at least two jack stands. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels.
3. Remove the caliper pins with the 10-mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the brake assembly, and slide the two brake pads from each wheel brake caliper. Use a flat screwdriver to pry the clips on the backs of the brake pads from the caliper, if they do not easily slide free.
4. Place the C-clamp onto the caliper piston and the back side of the caliper. Open the brake bleed valve (located between the two caliper pin slots) with a 10-mm socket wrench. Place a drip pane beneath the caliper, to catch the brake fluid from the valve.
5. Squeeze the piston into the side of the caliper with the C-clamp. Remove the clamp, once the piston is fully depressed within the caliper, and close the bleed valve with the wrench.
6. Slide the new brake pads onto the sides of the caliper. Place the caliper back onto the rotor and screw in the caliper pins with the wrench. Replace the wheels onto the Contour wheel bolts, and screw on the lug nuts. Lift the car with the jack, and remove the jack stands. Move to the driver's seat.
7. Start the Ford, and press the brake pedal, repeatedly. The depressions force the caliper pistons back into the proper place against the brake pads. Pull the hood release lever, and move to the front of the car.
8. Lift the hood, and remove the master cylinder cap. The cap is situated to the right of the Contour engine. Place a funnel into the reservoir, and fill the container with DOT-3 brake fluid, as needed. Remove the funnel, and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the hood. Read More »»
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