The 2004 Infiniti FX45 is equipped with both front and rear disc brakes. Disc brakes stop the vehicle by using a hydraulic piston to press two brake pads against a flat, metal rotor to create friction. This friction is what stops the vehicle. The friction also wears away the brake pads. Eventually, you will have to replace the pads. You'll know it's time when you begin to hear a squealing sound when you press the brake pedal. Do not ignore the sound. If you wait too long, the worn pads will damage the rotors, making the repair much more expensive.
Procedure:
1. Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle using the jack. Support both sides by lowering the vehicle onto jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts and take off the rear wheels.
3. Place a drip pan under the brake assembly. Spray the entire assembly with brake cleaner to remove the brake pad dust. Let the brakes air dry.
4. Use a socket wrench to remove the upper sliding pin bolt located on the rear of the brake caliper.
5. Rotate the cylinder body down off the rotor to access the brake pads in the torque member. Use a piece of wire to secure the cylinder body to prevent damage to the brake hose.
6. Slide the old pads out of the torque member. If necessary, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to lift the pad retainers, but be careful not to bend them.
7. Apply a coat of high-temperature silicon-based grease to the rear of the new pads. Attach the new shims to the back of the pads and put a coat of grease on the back of the shims.
8. Place the pads back in the torque member. Make sure the pad retainers are fully seated in the torque member.
9. Use a large C-clamp to press the piston back into the cylinder body.
10. Rotate the cylinder body back onto the torque member. Replace the lower sliding pin and use the torque wrench to tighten it to 32 ft.-lbs. of torque. Repeat the procedure on the other rear wheel.
11. Replace the wheels and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.
12. Drive the vehicle for a few miles. Make several quick stops from approximately 40 miles an hour. This will seat the pads and condition the surface of the brake pads for maximum efficiency.
Read More »»
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Make Your Saab 9-5 Go Faster
In 1999, Saab introduced its new upscale model, the Saab 9-5, to replace its predecessor, the Saab 9000. The 9-5 featured a redesigned body, more horsepower and torque, and an updated interior.
But the 9-5 is designed with the layman in mind. There are many aftermarket options to increase horsepower and torque in the 9-5. Some are more complex than others. By replacing the software or the Engine Control Unit (ECU for short), driving enthusiasts can unlock the horsepower and torque that the 2.3 liter turbo-charged engine is capable of of making, without having to change any of the car's hardware.
Preparation
1. Set the hand brake, remove the key from the ignition switch, and open the hood.
2. Disconnect the negative battery lead from the battery terminal, using the adjustable wrench. Usually this lead is black. This will prevent any possibility of shock or shorting during the project.
3. Clear away any debris that has collected on the plastic run-off cover at the bottom of the windshield.
Removing the Factory ECU
1. Loosen the plastic run-off cover by unscrewing the bolts that hold it in place with a Phillips-head screw driver.
2.Lift up the plastic run-off cover approximately six to eight inches, but do not remove it. Locate the ECU's oval-shaped plastic protective cover. The cover will have a plastic tube full of wires connected to its side.
3. Unscrew the bolts holding the protective cover in place using the 10 mm socket wrench. The socket-wrench extender may be needed to reach some of the bolts.
4. Lift up the black lever that releases the wiring coupler on the top of the ECU. The ECU is the silver box mounted vertically under the plastic protector. Disconnect the wiring coupler from the ECU.
5. Unscrew the two bolts located on either side of the ECU using the 10 mm wrench and slide the ECU out of its retaining bracket
Replacing the ECU
1. Slide the new aftermarket ECU into the bracket where the factory ECU was just removed.
2. Replace the two bolts that hold the ECU in the bracket, using the 10 mm socket wrench.
3. Align the wiring coupler with the new ECU and plug it in. Fold down the black plastic handle to secure the connection.
4. Replace the ECU's plastic protective cover and the plastic run-off cover.
5. Reconnect the negative battery lead and test to see that the ECU is functioning properly by starting the car. The car is governed by the ECU and will not start if there is something wrong with the installation.
6. Close the hood and take the car for a test drive. Drive slowly at first to make sure the car is operating properly, then gradually increase overall speed and acceleration. Read More »»
But the 9-5 is designed with the layman in mind. There are many aftermarket options to increase horsepower and torque in the 9-5. Some are more complex than others. By replacing the software or the Engine Control Unit (ECU for short), driving enthusiasts can unlock the horsepower and torque that the 2.3 liter turbo-charged engine is capable of of making, without having to change any of the car's hardware.
Preparation
1. Set the hand brake, remove the key from the ignition switch, and open the hood.
2. Disconnect the negative battery lead from the battery terminal, using the adjustable wrench. Usually this lead is black. This will prevent any possibility of shock or shorting during the project.
3. Clear away any debris that has collected on the plastic run-off cover at the bottom of the windshield.
Removing the Factory ECU
1. Loosen the plastic run-off cover by unscrewing the bolts that hold it in place with a Phillips-head screw driver.
2.Lift up the plastic run-off cover approximately six to eight inches, but do not remove it. Locate the ECU's oval-shaped plastic protective cover. The cover will have a plastic tube full of wires connected to its side.
3. Unscrew the bolts holding the protective cover in place using the 10 mm socket wrench. The socket-wrench extender may be needed to reach some of the bolts.
4. Lift up the black lever that releases the wiring coupler on the top of the ECU. The ECU is the silver box mounted vertically under the plastic protector. Disconnect the wiring coupler from the ECU.
5. Unscrew the two bolts located on either side of the ECU using the 10 mm wrench and slide the ECU out of its retaining bracket
Replacing the ECU
1. Slide the new aftermarket ECU into the bracket where the factory ECU was just removed.
2. Replace the two bolts that hold the ECU in the bracket, using the 10 mm socket wrench.
3. Align the wiring coupler with the new ECU and plug it in. Fold down the black plastic handle to secure the connection.
4. Replace the ECU's plastic protective cover and the plastic run-off cover.
5. Reconnect the negative battery lead and test to see that the ECU is functioning properly by starting the car. The car is governed by the ECU and will not start if there is something wrong with the installation.
6. Close the hood and take the car for a test drive. Drive slowly at first to make sure the car is operating properly, then gradually increase overall speed and acceleration. Read More »»
Replace the Front Brakes on a Saturn Ion
The front brakes on the Saturn Ion are not difficult to replace and can be done in your driveway. Replacing the brakes yourself can save you money, rather than taking your car to a repair garage and paying for brake repairs. It should take you about 30 minutes to replace the car's brake pads. Your brake pads may make a high-pitched squeal noise when you step on the brake pedal, indicating they need to be replaced. However, you should never depend solely on brake noise to determine when to change the pads. You should inspect them as part of a regular maintenance routine.
Procedure:
1. Park the car on level ground and turn off its ignition. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Open and secure the engine compartment hood.
2. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master brake cylinder using the turkey baster. Put the fluid in the drain pan for later recycling.
3. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Saturn with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it to the frame of the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench. Pull the wheel off the car.
4. Loosen the bottom caliper bolt with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper up and off the wheel assembly. Push the caliper piston back into the housing using the c-clamp and closing the caliper and back brake pad between the jaws until the piston seats itself. Pull the pads and retaining clips from the caliper and discard them.
5. Place the new brake pads into the caliper along with the retaining clips. Pivot the brake caliper down onto the wheel assembly. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 3 through 5 on the other wheel.
6. Replace the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Saturn. Lower the vehicle to the ground and fully tighten the lug nuts.
7. Open the vehicle's hood. Add brake fluid, as needed, to the proper operating level. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the car on level ground and turn off its ignition. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Open and secure the engine compartment hood.
2. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master brake cylinder using the turkey baster. Put the fluid in the drain pan for later recycling.
3. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Saturn with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it to the frame of the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench. Pull the wheel off the car.
4. Loosen the bottom caliper bolt with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper up and off the wheel assembly. Push the caliper piston back into the housing using the c-clamp and closing the caliper and back brake pad between the jaws until the piston seats itself. Pull the pads and retaining clips from the caliper and discard them.
5. Place the new brake pads into the caliper along with the retaining clips. Pivot the brake caliper down onto the wheel assembly. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 3 through 5 on the other wheel.
6. Replace the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Saturn. Lower the vehicle to the ground and fully tighten the lug nuts.
7. Open the vehicle's hood. Add brake fluid, as needed, to the proper operating level. Read More »»
Friday, November 19, 2010
Install Drilled Rotors
Rotors are important brake system components. Calipers squeeze the brake pads that surround the rotors, which helps to slow or stop a vehicle. Rotors are available in a variety of designs and sizes, so you will have no problem finding ones that work with your vehicle braking system. Drilled rotors feature holes that help keep the metal cool, which reduces slippage between the pad and the rotor surface and makes it easier for your vehicle to slow down or stop. Save time and money, by replacing your automobile rotors yourself.
Procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on a level work surface, to prevent the car from rolling. Apply the emergency brake, and turn off the ignition.
2. Place a floor jack under the lift point of the tire that is being removed, so you can access the rotors. Lift the car, slightly, and loosen the wheel lug nuts with a tire iron. Raise the wheel completely off the ground, and remove the loosened lug nuts and wheel to expose the brake caliper.
3. Remove the bolts that secure the caliper and the caliper bracket, using a ratchet and an appropriate-sized socket. Tie the unsecured caliper to the strut assembly with string, to prevent it from hanging on the brake line that is still attached to the back.
4. Slide the rotor off the wheel spindle and lug bolts. Tap on the back of the rotor with a hammer or mallet to loosen it, if it is stuck.
5. Slide the new, drilled rotor over the spindle and lug bolts. Reattach the caliper bracket that typically surrounds the rotor, using the ratchet and socket.
6. Place a C-clamp over the body of the caliper so that one end rests against the face of the old brake pad, and the other end is at the rear. Tighten the clamp, to push the brake piston back into the caliper body, so it can be fitted with new pads. Remove the old pads, and install the new ones.
7. Slide the caliper over the newly installed rotors. Secure the caliper into place, with the same bolts that were removed, previously, with a ratchet and socket. Place the wheel over the lug bolts, and tighten them, along with the nuts.
8. Lower the floor jack, so the tire makes contact with the ground. Tighten the lug nuts with a tire iron. Remove the floor jack from that specific lift point, and continue to the next tire. Step on the brake pedal to put pressure into the calipers, which will press the brake pads into place, when all of the rotors are installed. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on a level work surface, to prevent the car from rolling. Apply the emergency brake, and turn off the ignition.
2. Place a floor jack under the lift point of the tire that is being removed, so you can access the rotors. Lift the car, slightly, and loosen the wheel lug nuts with a tire iron. Raise the wheel completely off the ground, and remove the loosened lug nuts and wheel to expose the brake caliper.
3. Remove the bolts that secure the caliper and the caliper bracket, using a ratchet and an appropriate-sized socket. Tie the unsecured caliper to the strut assembly with string, to prevent it from hanging on the brake line that is still attached to the back.
4. Slide the rotor off the wheel spindle and lug bolts. Tap on the back of the rotor with a hammer or mallet to loosen it, if it is stuck.
5. Slide the new, drilled rotor over the spindle and lug bolts. Reattach the caliper bracket that typically surrounds the rotor, using the ratchet and socket.
6. Place a C-clamp over the body of the caliper so that one end rests against the face of the old brake pad, and the other end is at the rear. Tighten the clamp, to push the brake piston back into the caliper body, so it can be fitted with new pads. Remove the old pads, and install the new ones.
7. Slide the caliper over the newly installed rotors. Secure the caliper into place, with the same bolts that were removed, previously, with a ratchet and socket. Place the wheel over the lug bolts, and tighten them, along with the nuts.
8. Lower the floor jack, so the tire makes contact with the ground. Tighten the lug nuts with a tire iron. Remove the floor jack from that specific lift point, and continue to the next tire. Step on the brake pedal to put pressure into the calipers, which will press the brake pads into place, when all of the rotors are installed. Read More »»
Change the Front Brakes in a Town & Country Van
Periodic brake replacement on the Chrysler Town & Country is part of the vehicle's regular maintenance work. The frequency of the van's brake replacement depends on the amount of wear and tear on the brakes. If you drive the car occasionally, your brakes will last longer than brakes that are used frequently. You should inspect the pads and rotors as part of your regular maintenance routine.
Procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on level ground and turn off its ignition. Open and secure the the engine compartment hood. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan for recycling after the project is complete.
2. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Town and Country using the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the vehicle and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench and pull the tire off the car.
3. Loosen the bolts on the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet. Place the back of the brake caliper and the back brake pad between the jaws of the C-clamp. Close the clamp until the caliper piston is seated inside the caliper housing. Remove the brake pads from the caliper and discard them.
4. Place the new brake pads in the caliper. Put the caliper in place on the wheel assembly and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 2 through 4 on the other wheel.
5. Place the wheel back on the Town and Country. Tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the van to the ground with the automobile jack and fully tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
6. Open and secure the van's hood. Add fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder, as needed. Close the vehicle's hood.
7. Sit in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal several times until it is firm. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on level ground and turn off its ignition. Open and secure the the engine compartment hood. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan for recycling after the project is complete.
2. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Town and Country using the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the vehicle and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench and pull the tire off the car.
3. Loosen the bolts on the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet. Place the back of the brake caliper and the back brake pad between the jaws of the C-clamp. Close the clamp until the caliper piston is seated inside the caliper housing. Remove the brake pads from the caliper and discard them.
4. Place the new brake pads in the caliper. Put the caliper in place on the wheel assembly and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 2 through 4 on the other wheel.
5. Place the wheel back on the Town and Country. Tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the van to the ground with the automobile jack and fully tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
6. Open and secure the van's hood. Add fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder, as needed. Close the vehicle's hood.
7. Sit in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal several times until it is firm. Read More »»
New Brake Pads & Noise
New brake pads on an automobile commonly cause brake noise. The new pads will take some time to wear in, or "bed", and a tolerable amount of noise during this time is normal. Other noises could spell trouble; investigate them further.
Brake Bedding
New brake pads normally require about 300 miles of city driving before they become fully bedded, or worn in with the rotors. A tolerable amount of noise---usually a light squeal---is normal during this period. You can accelerate the bedding process by performing a half dozen or so rapid slowdowns from highway speed to about 20 miles per hour and then driving the car without braking for 10 minutes or so to let the brakes cool. Perform the decelerations in rapid succession so the brakes do not cool between them.
Noise-Reducing Shims
Soft, noise-reducing shims placed on the backs of the brake pads are the most common, and the most effective, means of eliminating most brake noise. Pad installation jobs often omit the shims, or make use of low-quality shims, with the result that the new pads squeal. Installing new, high quality noise-reducing shims will often fix the problem.
Brake Pad Lining Material
Brake noise can result from the installation of new pads with linings made from a harder material than the old linings. A barely audible grinding sound during low-speed braking is normal for hard linings---especially when the brakes are cold. Hard linings will more likely produce brake squeal; use so noise-reducing shims.
Brake Pad Design
High-quality brake pads often have a chamfered, or angled, edge along the leading and trailing edges of the pad lining. On low-quality pads, the lining edges usually have sharp corners. Pads with sharp corners are more prone to producing brake noise---especially during the bedding period---and a change to pads with chamfered edges will often fix the problem.
Improper Pad Installation
Improperly reinstalled calipers, or pads not positioned firmly in the calipers, will often cause vibration and noise. If the brakes are noisy immediately after servicing, double-check the brakes to ensure everything has been properly assembled. Read More »»
Brake Bedding
New brake pads normally require about 300 miles of city driving before they become fully bedded, or worn in with the rotors. A tolerable amount of noise---usually a light squeal---is normal during this period. You can accelerate the bedding process by performing a half dozen or so rapid slowdowns from highway speed to about 20 miles per hour and then driving the car without braking for 10 minutes or so to let the brakes cool. Perform the decelerations in rapid succession so the brakes do not cool between them.
Noise-Reducing Shims
Soft, noise-reducing shims placed on the backs of the brake pads are the most common, and the most effective, means of eliminating most brake noise. Pad installation jobs often omit the shims, or make use of low-quality shims, with the result that the new pads squeal. Installing new, high quality noise-reducing shims will often fix the problem.
Brake Pad Lining Material
Brake noise can result from the installation of new pads with linings made from a harder material than the old linings. A barely audible grinding sound during low-speed braking is normal for hard linings---especially when the brakes are cold. Hard linings will more likely produce brake squeal; use so noise-reducing shims.
Brake Pad Design
High-quality brake pads often have a chamfered, or angled, edge along the leading and trailing edges of the pad lining. On low-quality pads, the lining edges usually have sharp corners. Pads with sharp corners are more prone to producing brake noise---especially during the bedding period---and a change to pads with chamfered edges will often fix the problem.
Improper Pad Installation
Improperly reinstalled calipers, or pads not positioned firmly in the calipers, will often cause vibration and noise. If the brakes are noisy immediately after servicing, double-check the brakes to ensure everything has been properly assembled. Read More »»
Make a 1997 Saab 900SE Turbo Faster
The Saab 900SE has a 2.0-liter, turbo-charged engine. From the factory, the 900SE produces 185 horsepower. Saab designed the 900SE with the layman in mind. Its Trionic 5 ECU, which governs the 900's engine system, is designed to accommodate low-grade gasoline and oil. With a few simple tools and the right knowledge, a driving enthusiast can unlock as much as 35 horsepower without replacing any of the car's factory hardware by simply installing a reprogrammed ECU.Preparation
1. Set the emergency hand brake, remove the key from the ignition switch and open the hood.
2. Disconnect the negative (black) battery lead from the battery terminal with an adjustable wrench to prevent any possibility of shock.
3. Open the passenger's side door and remove the floor mat.
Locating and Removing the Factory ECU
1. Loosen and remove the lower dashboard screw with a 10 mm socket wrench. The screw is located by the door frame where the carpet meets the dashboard, across from the door speaker.
2. Pull back the carpet to access ECU, being careful to avoid creasing the carpet.
3. Loosen the screw holding the ECU in place with the 10 mm socket wrench. The ECU is a rectangular silver box with a black and red lever on the bottom and is mounted under the dashboard.
4. Move down the black part of the lever to release the wire coupling then disconnect it.
5. Slide out the factory ECU.
Installing the New ECU
1. Slide the aftermarket ECU into its slot.
2. Line up the wiring coupler and plug it into the new ECU. Release the handle into its closed position.
3. Replace the 10 mm screw that holds the ECU in the bracket. Replace the carpeting then reinstall the lower dashboard screw.
4. Reconnect the battery lead with the adjustable wrench then close the hood.
5. Start the car and take it for a test drive, running it at low speeds first then progressively working up to higher speeds. Read More »»
1. Set the emergency hand brake, remove the key from the ignition switch and open the hood.
2. Disconnect the negative (black) battery lead from the battery terminal with an adjustable wrench to prevent any possibility of shock.
3. Open the passenger's side door and remove the floor mat.
Locating and Removing the Factory ECU
1. Loosen and remove the lower dashboard screw with a 10 mm socket wrench. The screw is located by the door frame where the carpet meets the dashboard, across from the door speaker.
2. Pull back the carpet to access ECU, being careful to avoid creasing the carpet.
3. Loosen the screw holding the ECU in place with the 10 mm socket wrench. The ECU is a rectangular silver box with a black and red lever on the bottom and is mounted under the dashboard.
4. Move down the black part of the lever to release the wire coupling then disconnect it.
5. Slide out the factory ECU.
Installing the New ECU
1. Slide the aftermarket ECU into its slot.
2. Line up the wiring coupler and plug it into the new ECU. Release the handle into its closed position.
3. Replace the 10 mm screw that holds the ECU in the bracket. Replace the carpeting then reinstall the lower dashboard screw.
4. Reconnect the battery lead with the adjustable wrench then close the hood.
5. Start the car and take it for a test drive, running it at low speeds first then progressively working up to higher speeds. Read More »»
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