The Mazda MX-5, also known as the Miata, is a rear-wheel-drive Japanese sports car that has been available in the United States since 1990 and is still available today. The car features a 16-valve engine with a dual overhead camshaft and a timing belt.
Cam Cover Bolts
The camshaft cover bolts on the Mazda Miata require 43 to 78 inch-pounds of torque. In addition, to ensure that the cam cover does not leak, care should be taken to tighten the cam cover bolts in a specific order, as described in the following section.
Camshaft Bearing Bolts
The camshafts are secured to the head of the Miata's engine with 20 cam bolts. The camshaft bearing cap bolts require a final torque rating of 100 to 125 foot-pounds of torque. It is critical that the camshaft cap bolts be loosened or tightened in stages, in a specific order -- start in the middle of the engine and work in a spiral pattern toward the outside of the engine.
Maintain Camshaft Bearing Cap Position
In addition to the specific torque rating, it is advisable to record the location for each camshaft cap bearing and re-install each cap into its original position. The reason for this is that over time and because of engine wear, minor variances may develop in each cap.
Read More »»
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
How to Identify Chevy Suffixes
The Chevrolet suffix is the end portion of a Chevrolet engine ID code, or casting number. Primarily used on the engine block, the code was originally developed to communicate engine specifics between one department and another. It has since become an invaluable identification tool for those seeking specific engine parts at junkyards and swap meets. The information found within the suffix, which must be referenced to a Chevrolet suffix listing, identifies the engine completely, including the year, original vehicle application and any specifications particular to the engine in question.
Procedure:
1. Locate the Chevrolet engine ID code. According to Nasty Z28.com, the engine ID codes are located as follows: on small block V-8s, the code is located on the block near the font of the passenger-side cylinder head. It may be hidden by the alternator. On big block V-8s, it is above the timing chain cover, and on six-cylinder engines, it is found behind the distributor on the passenger side of the block. An example of the alphanumeric code is "V0107CLT."
2. Identify the suffix portion of the engine ID code. Using the example "V0107CLT," the suffix portion of the code is the last three letters, "CLT."
3. Reference the suffix to a Chevrolet suffix listing. Suffix reference listings can be found at NastyZ28.com and Chevy-Camaro.com (see Resources). The suffix example, "CLT," when referenced to a listing, identifies the engine as a 1973 350-cubic-inch Corvette engine with California emission standards and 165 horsepower. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Locate the Chevrolet engine ID code. According to Nasty Z28.com, the engine ID codes are located as follows: on small block V-8s, the code is located on the block near the font of the passenger-side cylinder head. It may be hidden by the alternator. On big block V-8s, it is above the timing chain cover, and on six-cylinder engines, it is found behind the distributor on the passenger side of the block. An example of the alphanumeric code is "V0107CLT."
2. Identify the suffix portion of the engine ID code. Using the example "V0107CLT," the suffix portion of the code is the last three letters, "CLT."
3. Reference the suffix to a Chevrolet suffix listing. Suffix reference listings can be found at NastyZ28.com and Chevy-Camaro.com (see Resources). The suffix example, "CLT," when referenced to a listing, identifies the engine as a 1973 350-cubic-inch Corvette engine with California emission standards and 165 horsepower. Read More »»
How to Install Head Bolts
If you have never installed head bolts, it is best to do your homework and arm yourself with the bolt torque and tightening order specs of the engine you're working on. Proper bolt lubrication, cleaning, and deburring, along with aluminum heads and washer placement, all help to make the engine work properly upon completion. There is no such thing as a quick-and-dirty job when it comes to head bolt installation: do it right or you'll have a problem on your hands.
Procedure:
1. Inspect each bolt to assure clean and undamaged threads. Use a wire brush to clear any foreign matter off the threads. Use the service manual to check proper bolt length for each location. If the head has been resurfaced, bolts may be slightly too long and bottom out before exerting the proper downward force on the head. In this case, use hardened steel washers to make up for lost head height.
2. Run a bottoming tap down each bolt hole to clear out any debris. Apply motor oil to all bolt threads and to the bottom of the bolt head. If the head is aluminum, use manufacturer-recommended hardened steel washers under each bolt head, chamfered-side up, lubricated. If the head has been resurfaced, you will have to use thicker washers to make up for lost head height to keep bolts from bottoming out. Make sure all surfaces on the head, washers and bolts are clean and burr-free.
3. Drop each bolt into its respective location and finger tighten. Use the service manual for bolt-tightening sequence. Use the beam-deflector torque wrench to tighten all bolts in 3 to 5 steps. The first step tightens all bolts in sequence to a percentage of full torque. Each subsequent step tightens all bolts in sequence to progressively higher torque specs until the final step sets the bolts to the rated final torque. Guesswork can warp the head or cause leakage and overheating.
4. Re-check torque on all bolts. If you missed one, this step will find it. Bolts are made to stretch somewhat, so the final torque check assures proper clamp force on the head. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Inspect each bolt to assure clean and undamaged threads. Use a wire brush to clear any foreign matter off the threads. Use the service manual to check proper bolt length for each location. If the head has been resurfaced, bolts may be slightly too long and bottom out before exerting the proper downward force on the head. In this case, use hardened steel washers to make up for lost head height.
2. Run a bottoming tap down each bolt hole to clear out any debris. Apply motor oil to all bolt threads and to the bottom of the bolt head. If the head is aluminum, use manufacturer-recommended hardened steel washers under each bolt head, chamfered-side up, lubricated. If the head has been resurfaced, you will have to use thicker washers to make up for lost head height to keep bolts from bottoming out. Make sure all surfaces on the head, washers and bolts are clean and burr-free.
3. Drop each bolt into its respective location and finger tighten. Use the service manual for bolt-tightening sequence. Use the beam-deflector torque wrench to tighten all bolts in 3 to 5 steps. The first step tightens all bolts in sequence to a percentage of full torque. Each subsequent step tightens all bolts in sequence to progressively higher torque specs until the final step sets the bolts to the rated final torque. Guesswork can warp the head or cause leakage and overheating.
4. Re-check torque on all bolts. If you missed one, this step will find it. Bolts are made to stretch somewhat, so the final torque check assures proper clamp force on the head. Read More »»
Directions for How to Install a Harmonic Balancer
The harmonic balancer, also known as a harmonic or crank pulley damper, lessens the vibration of your engine. It is located at the front of the engine on the crank shaft. Replacement of the harmonic balancer can be time consuming and tricky.
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, placing it safely against the battery. Drain the radiator into a large bucket; do not drain on the ground if you use coolant.
2. Remove the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items that may be in the way. Mark any wires that may be in the way for correct placement later.
3. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt, then gently pull the harmonic balancer from the crankshaft using the Special Tool 8513A insert and the jaw puller. Clean the damper bore and crankshaft nose thoroughly.
4. Slide the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft nose gently and ensure it is on as far as you can push it by hand. Press the harmonic balancer onto the crankshaft with the Special Tool 8512-A.
5. Install the harmonic balancer bolt, using the torque wrench to tighten to 176 N·m or 129 ft. lbs. Replace the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items if removed. Refill the radiator. Connect the battery cable. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, placing it safely against the battery. Drain the radiator into a large bucket; do not drain on the ground if you use coolant.
2. Remove the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items that may be in the way. Mark any wires that may be in the way for correct placement later.
3. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt, then gently pull the harmonic balancer from the crankshaft using the Special Tool 8513A insert and the jaw puller. Clean the damper bore and crankshaft nose thoroughly.
4. Slide the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft nose gently and ensure it is on as far as you can push it by hand. Press the harmonic balancer onto the crankshaft with the Special Tool 8512-A.
5. Install the harmonic balancer bolt, using the torque wrench to tighten to 176 N·m or 129 ft. lbs. Replace the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items if removed. Refill the radiator. Connect the battery cable. Read More »»
Remove a 1965 Mustang Engine
When restoring a 1965 Ford Mustang, the engine should come out, even if you don't need to rebuild it. It is easier to complete body work on the engine compartment when the engine is out of the vehicle. You might also take the engine out to rebuild it or to clean the outside of the engine so that you can have the perfect show car. Some hot-rodders also remove the engine in favor of a larger engine, but the narrow engine compartment limits your options, unless you are prepared to do some body-altering work.
Procedures:
1. Mark the hood bolts and the hood (matchmark) so that you don't have to spend an hour trying to adjust the hood when you put it back on. Slide a drain pan under the radiator petcock. Loosen the petcock and allow the radiator to drain. Slide another drain pan under the oil pan. Remove the oil pan bolt, using the appropriate socket, and allow the crankcase to drain. Dispose of the fluids in an appropriate manner.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the air duct, using the screwdriver, then remove the air ducts. Remove the air box, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the battery, negative cable first, using the appropriate wrench. Follow the battery cables down to the starter and the ground, then remove the cables, using the appropriate socket.
3. Slide an empty drain pan under the transmission lines at the radiator, then disconnect the transmission lines at the radiator, if your Mustang is an automatic, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps.
4. Break the fan bolts loose using the appropriate socket but do not remove them. Loosen the adjusting bolts for the air compressor (if equipped), the alternator and the power steering pump (if equipped). Push each accessory toward the engine to loosen tension on the belt. Lift the belts off the engine.
5. Unplug the wiring harness connectors for the air compressor and the alternator. On the alternator, use a wrench to remove the nut holding the power wire onto the alternator. Remove the power wire. Leave the hoses for the air compressor and the power steering pump attached to each accessory and move the accessories out of the way.
6. Unbolt the air conditioning condenser from the body but do not remove the lines. Tip the condenser forward, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. If the engine is a 428 CJ, 429 Super CJ, Boss 302 or Boss 429, disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the engine oil cooler, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the hold-down bracket, then lift the oil cooler out of the engine compartment.
7. Remove the fan bolts, fan and upper pulley, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump and the carburetor spacer, using a screwdriver. Remove the wiring from the starter, using the appropriate wrench. Unbolt and remove the starter, using the appropriate socket. Remove the accelerator rod at the carburetor, using a screwdriver. If you have a six-cylinder engine, remove the choke control cable at the carburetor, using a screwdriver.
8. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump on the side of the block, using a screwdriver, then block the line by sticking a bolt in it. Remove the wires from the coil, using a small wrench. Pull the coil wire off the coil tower. Unplug the oil pressure and temperature sending units.
9. Remove the clutch retracting spring, clutch equalizer shaft and arm bracket at the underbody rail, if your Mustang is a manual shift. Remove the arm bracket and the equalizer shaft, using the appropriate socket.
10. Raise the car, using a floor jack. Support it with jack stands. Remove the flywheel housing upper retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. The bolts are removed through the access holes in the floor pan. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the right and left engine mounts at the underbody brackets. Remove the flywheel housing cover. If the Mustang is a manual shift, remove the flywheel housing lower retaining bolts.
11. Disconnect the throttle valve vacuum line at the intake manifold, if the car is an automatic. Remove the converter housing lower retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. Lower the car off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the transmission and jack it up high enough to touch the transmission.
12. Attach the engine hoist to the engine by sliding bolts through the hoist chains and screwing the bolts into the bolt holes in the head. Double check that all wires and hoses are disconnected. Remove all engine mounts, using the appropriate socket. Lift the engine a few inches. Check again to ensure that all wires and hoses have been disconnected. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment and put it on an engine stand. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Mark the hood bolts and the hood (matchmark) so that you don't have to spend an hour trying to adjust the hood when you put it back on. Slide a drain pan under the radiator petcock. Loosen the petcock and allow the radiator to drain. Slide another drain pan under the oil pan. Remove the oil pan bolt, using the appropriate socket, and allow the crankcase to drain. Dispose of the fluids in an appropriate manner.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the air duct, using the screwdriver, then remove the air ducts. Remove the air box, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the battery, negative cable first, using the appropriate wrench. Follow the battery cables down to the starter and the ground, then remove the cables, using the appropriate socket.
3. Slide an empty drain pan under the transmission lines at the radiator, then disconnect the transmission lines at the radiator, if your Mustang is an automatic, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps.
4. Break the fan bolts loose using the appropriate socket but do not remove them. Loosen the adjusting bolts for the air compressor (if equipped), the alternator and the power steering pump (if equipped). Push each accessory toward the engine to loosen tension on the belt. Lift the belts off the engine.
5. Unplug the wiring harness connectors for the air compressor and the alternator. On the alternator, use a wrench to remove the nut holding the power wire onto the alternator. Remove the power wire. Leave the hoses for the air compressor and the power steering pump attached to each accessory and move the accessories out of the way.
6. Unbolt the air conditioning condenser from the body but do not remove the lines. Tip the condenser forward, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. If the engine is a 428 CJ, 429 Super CJ, Boss 302 or Boss 429, disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the engine oil cooler, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the hold-down bracket, then lift the oil cooler out of the engine compartment.
7. Remove the fan bolts, fan and upper pulley, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump and the carburetor spacer, using a screwdriver. Remove the wiring from the starter, using the appropriate wrench. Unbolt and remove the starter, using the appropriate socket. Remove the accelerator rod at the carburetor, using a screwdriver. If you have a six-cylinder engine, remove the choke control cable at the carburetor, using a screwdriver.
8. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump on the side of the block, using a screwdriver, then block the line by sticking a bolt in it. Remove the wires from the coil, using a small wrench. Pull the coil wire off the coil tower. Unplug the oil pressure and temperature sending units.
9. Remove the clutch retracting spring, clutch equalizer shaft and arm bracket at the underbody rail, if your Mustang is a manual shift. Remove the arm bracket and the equalizer shaft, using the appropriate socket.
10. Raise the car, using a floor jack. Support it with jack stands. Remove the flywheel housing upper retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. The bolts are removed through the access holes in the floor pan. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the right and left engine mounts at the underbody brackets. Remove the flywheel housing cover. If the Mustang is a manual shift, remove the flywheel housing lower retaining bolts.
11. Disconnect the throttle valve vacuum line at the intake manifold, if the car is an automatic. Remove the converter housing lower retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. Lower the car off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the transmission and jack it up high enough to touch the transmission.
12. Attach the engine hoist to the engine by sliding bolts through the hoist chains and screwing the bolts into the bolt holes in the head. Double check that all wires and hoses are disconnected. Remove all engine mounts, using the appropriate socket. Lift the engine a few inches. Check again to ensure that all wires and hoses have been disconnected. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment and put it on an engine stand. Read More »»
BBC Engine Builder Specs
The Big Block Chevy (BBC) engine has a history that began with a bang--or at least a lot of excitement. In 1963, the Chevrolet team showed up at the Daytona 500 track and proceeded to blow the competition away. Their secret weapon was a big block engine that had a displacement of 427 cubic inches. On that day, a legend was born. The builder specs of the BBC engine help explain why it is still a force to be reckoned with.
General Description
The BBC engine is a V8 with a displacement of 540.7 cubic inches.
Bore, Stroke and Compression
The bore of the big block is 4.5 inches, while the stroke is 4.25 inches. The compression of the engine is 9.90:1.
Clearance
The clearances of the Chevy big block are tight: the main bearing clearance is .0025 inches, the thrust clearance of the crankshaft is .0065 inches, the rod bearing is .0022 inches and the rod side clearance is .018 inches.
Valve Spring
The seat pressure of the valve spring is 142 pounds at 1.940, the open pressure is 402 pounds at 1.250, and the coil-bind is 1.130. Read More »»
General Description
The BBC engine is a V8 with a displacement of 540.7 cubic inches.
Bore, Stroke and Compression
The bore of the big block is 4.5 inches, while the stroke is 4.25 inches. The compression of the engine is 9.90:1.
Clearance
The clearances of the Chevy big block are tight: the main bearing clearance is .0025 inches, the thrust clearance of the crankshaft is .0065 inches, the rod bearing is .0022 inches and the rod side clearance is .018 inches.
Valve Spring
The seat pressure of the valve spring is 142 pounds at 1.940, the open pressure is 402 pounds at 1.250, and the coil-bind is 1.130. Read More »»
Sunday, December 12, 2010
1978 Malibu Specs
The 1978 Chevrolet Malibu was Chevy's mid-sized line for individual, police and fleet buyers. The Malibu was offered as a two-door coupe, four-door sedan and four-door station wagon. Chevy offered 43 different options and option packages with the Malibu to improve convenience, comfort, appearance and performance.
Engine
The standard engine in the 1978 Malibu was a 200 cubic inch cast iron, liquid cooled, naturally-aspirated, overhead valve V-6 rated at 95 horsepower. This was the first year Chevy used a V-6 engine. There also was an optional 231 cubic inch V-6 that produced 105 horsepower and a 305 cubic inch V-8 rated at 145 horsepower. Station wagon buyers could also choose a 350 cubic inch V-8 that produced 170 horsepower.
Chassis
The 1978 Malibu models had a steel body on a steel perimeter frame. The front suspension featured a ball joint with coil springs. The live rear axle was suspended from coil springs on trailing arms. The Malibu models had front disc brakes and rear drum brakes with power assist optional. The front-mounted engine drove the rear wheels through a standard three-speed manual transmission, with a four-speed manual and three-speed automatic transmission available as options. Final drive ratio was 2.73-to-1 or 3.08-to-1, with Positraction optional.
Dimensions
The 1978 Malibu was 192.7 inches long on a 108.1-inch wheelbase. The cars were 70.1 inches wide and 54.5 inches high with a 58-inch tread between the wheels. The sedans had 16.1 cubic feet of trunk space, the wagon 72.4 cubic inch of cargo space. Buyers could choose from 14 body colors, five two-tone color schemes, and an optional vinyl roof in seven colors.
Read More »»
Engine
The standard engine in the 1978 Malibu was a 200 cubic inch cast iron, liquid cooled, naturally-aspirated, overhead valve V-6 rated at 95 horsepower. This was the first year Chevy used a V-6 engine. There also was an optional 231 cubic inch V-6 that produced 105 horsepower and a 305 cubic inch V-8 rated at 145 horsepower. Station wagon buyers could also choose a 350 cubic inch V-8 that produced 170 horsepower.
Chassis
The 1978 Malibu models had a steel body on a steel perimeter frame. The front suspension featured a ball joint with coil springs. The live rear axle was suspended from coil springs on trailing arms. The Malibu models had front disc brakes and rear drum brakes with power assist optional. The front-mounted engine drove the rear wheels through a standard three-speed manual transmission, with a four-speed manual and three-speed automatic transmission available as options. Final drive ratio was 2.73-to-1 or 3.08-to-1, with Positraction optional.
Dimensions
The 1978 Malibu was 192.7 inches long on a 108.1-inch wheelbase. The cars were 70.1 inches wide and 54.5 inches high with a 58-inch tread between the wheels. The sedans had 16.1 cubic feet of trunk space, the wagon 72.4 cubic inch of cargo space. Buyers could choose from 14 body colors, five two-tone color schemes, and an optional vinyl roof in seven colors.
Read More »»
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