Holley produces a wide range of carburetors. Each product is made to serve a different purpose, so the specifications must alter for each carburetor. Holley is the only modular carburetor company that has run for over 100 years. They have helped every NASCAR champion since the 1960s.
Metering and Kickdown
Some Holley carburetors, such as the 650 CFM Ultra Double Pumper, have black anodized billet aluminum metering blocks and a base plate with black hardware. Other carburetors, like the 1050 CFM Ultra Dominator, also have billet aluminum metering blocks, but they have interchangeable emulsion, power valve channel restrictions and idle feed. These carburetors come equipped with Ford A/T kickdown.
Choke and Ports
Holley carburetors have fairly standard ports, but the chokes vary from piece to piece. For example, the 650 CFM carburetor and the 600 CFM carburetor both have one timed spark port, one PCV port and one full vacuum. The 600 CFM comes with a manual choke, however, while the 650 CFM is equipped with an electric choke.
Other Features
Most Holley carburetors are made of aluminum. Some parts of the products are made of other materials as well; for example, the 650 CFM has glass fuel-level sight windows. The 600 CFM comes with a "Next Gen" needle and seat design that allows the user to not worry about external float level adjustment. The 1050 CFM is built with dual fuel inlets and slabbed throttle shafts.
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Sunday, December 12, 2010
Why Do Exhaust Valves Break?
An exhaust valve allows cylinder head gasses to escape, Expensive engine work is often necessary when an exhaust valve breaks. Though repair is needed once this occurs, having information on what caused the valve breakage might be important.
Types
There are two types of breakage to which exhaust valves can fall victim. One type involves a breakage where the head and the stem connect. A break can also occur at the point of the stem where the keeper-grooves have been built in.
Head Breakage
Exhaust valves can experience this type of breakage because of stretching that occurs due to constant heat. Thermal shock negatively effects exhaust valves, because sudden drops in the engine's temperature causes them to break.
Stem Breakage
Heavy wear in the keeper grooves will cause the stem to snap off an exhaust valve. Constant sideloading can cause stem breakage if the stem height has not been installed correctly. Read More »»
Types
There are two types of breakage to which exhaust valves can fall victim. One type involves a breakage where the head and the stem connect. A break can also occur at the point of the stem where the keeper-grooves have been built in.
Head Breakage
Exhaust valves can experience this type of breakage because of stretching that occurs due to constant heat. Thermal shock negatively effects exhaust valves, because sudden drops in the engine's temperature causes them to break.
Stem Breakage
Heavy wear in the keeper grooves will cause the stem to snap off an exhaust valve. Constant sideloading can cause stem breakage if the stem height has not been installed correctly. Read More »»
Fix Valve Cover Leaks
The valve cover is essential to the preservation of an engine. This component allows the engine to run without having to worry about the constant spilling of oil. The valve cover's primary function is to stop oil from spilling onto the exhaust system which could result in a fire. A valve leak can lead to oil spilling onto the engine. The best way to fix the problem is to replace the valve cover.
Procedures:
1. Check the valve for leaks. Although the valve cover is supposed to prevent leaks, it sometimes has the reverse effect after years of use. The best way to check this is to check the gasket; which prevents leaks. However, over time they too can wear down.
2. Get to the valve cover. Depending on the type of car you own, this step might be simple or very difficult. Start by removing any wire or filters that are around the engine bay that cover the valve cover.
3. Mark the wires to make it easier to put the wires back when you are done. Tighten bolts and then observe--on the chance it might be a loose bolt that causes the leak. Tighten the bolt and watch to see if you still see leaking. Do not over tighten as this could cause the valve cover to crack.
4. Allow the engine to cool before removing the valve cover. Remove the bolts holding the valve cover to the engine. Disassemble the valve cover and slowly remove the cover.
5. Search the engine for any old or damaged gaskets; remove any of the damaged gaskets that need to be replaced. After the dysfunctional gaskets have been removed, wipe any extraneous oil from the engine bay.
6. Use silicone to seal the valve cover only if the user manual calls for it. Replace the valve cover with the new gaskets installed. Tighten the bolts that hold the valve cover down only to their specific torque level.
7. Reassemble the wires and filter that previously blocked the valve cover, in the same order they were disassembled. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Check the valve for leaks. Although the valve cover is supposed to prevent leaks, it sometimes has the reverse effect after years of use. The best way to check this is to check the gasket; which prevents leaks. However, over time they too can wear down.
2. Get to the valve cover. Depending on the type of car you own, this step might be simple or very difficult. Start by removing any wire or filters that are around the engine bay that cover the valve cover.
3. Mark the wires to make it easier to put the wires back when you are done. Tighten bolts and then observe--on the chance it might be a loose bolt that causes the leak. Tighten the bolt and watch to see if you still see leaking. Do not over tighten as this could cause the valve cover to crack.
4. Allow the engine to cool before removing the valve cover. Remove the bolts holding the valve cover to the engine. Disassemble the valve cover and slowly remove the cover.
5. Search the engine for any old or damaged gaskets; remove any of the damaged gaskets that need to be replaced. After the dysfunctional gaskets have been removed, wipe any extraneous oil from the engine bay.
6. Use silicone to seal the valve cover only if the user manual calls for it. Replace the valve cover with the new gaskets installed. Tighten the bolts that hold the valve cover down only to their specific torque level.
7. Reassemble the wires and filter that previously blocked the valve cover, in the same order they were disassembled. Read More »»
Install a Camshaft Sensor
The electronic control module or ECM, monitors the camshaft sensor to determine the correct time to inject fuel into the cylinder. It also uses the sensor to determine the correct time to ignite the fuel air mixture. The camshaft sensor is a magnetic or Hall effect sensor that provides a pulse or voltage to the ECM input. The ECM monitors the signal to determine proper engine timing. The camshaft sensor is mounted in the cylinder head of the engine. An inline engine--all the cylinders are in a row--will have one camshaft sensor. A V-block engine--cylinders are on both sides of the engine block--will have two camshaft sensors, one on each cylinder head. If you experience hard starting issues such as the engine cranks but does not start or engine misfires and hesitation, there may be a problem with your engine's camshaft sensor.
Procedures:
1. Open the hood and set the prop rod to hold the hood open. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.
2. Disconnect the old camshaft sensor from the engine harness connector. Remove the old sensor from the cylinder head. Retain the mounting bolts for installing the new sensor. Inspect the sensor mounting location and remove any O-ring material that is stuck to the mounting surface. Remove oil and dirt from the sensor mounting location.
3. Remove the new sensor and compare it with the old sensor. Confirm that the sensors are the same and the electrical connector and mounting locations are correct. Locate the new O-ring and verify that it fits properly in the O-ring grove.
4. Slide the sensor into the cylinder hole. Install the camshaft sensor mounting bolts. Be sure to tighten the bolts securely. Connect the sensor to the engine harness connector. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Open the hood and set the prop rod to hold the hood open. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.
2. Disconnect the old camshaft sensor from the engine harness connector. Remove the old sensor from the cylinder head. Retain the mounting bolts for installing the new sensor. Inspect the sensor mounting location and remove any O-ring material that is stuck to the mounting surface. Remove oil and dirt from the sensor mounting location.
3. Remove the new sensor and compare it with the old sensor. Confirm that the sensors are the same and the electrical connector and mounting locations are correct. Locate the new O-ring and verify that it fits properly in the O-ring grove.
4. Slide the sensor into the cylinder hole. Install the camshaft sensor mounting bolts. Be sure to tighten the bolts securely. Connect the sensor to the engine harness connector. Read More »»
Friday, December 10, 2010
Remove Motor Oil Sludge
The buildup of sludge in your car's engine is caused by the breakdown of the engine oil. The oil breaks down due to factors such as heat and contamination. Over time, the oil will thicken, causing it to settle on the engine's components, such as the crankshaft or on top of the engine on the valve train. This will effect the engine's efficiency, causing it to run hotter with less lubrication. Complete engine failure can occur eventually. However, with proper care and maintenance, you can take steps to prevent this situation.
Procedures:
1. Flush the engine oil system. You can purchase a quality engine flush at your local auto parts store. Replace the vehicle's old oil filter with a new filter and add one bottle of engine oil system flush. Make sure the oil level is at its maximum safe limit, as indicated on the dipstick. Loosen the oil drain plug and allow some oil to drain into a catch basin before adding the engine oil flush. Tighten the drain plug again.
2. Turn on the engine. Allow it to idle for approximately 15 minutes. Do not rev the engine or put it into gear. Shut the engine down after 15 minutes.
3. Remove the engine flush. Remove the drain plug from the oil pan and allow the oil and flush to drain into a catch basin. Remove the oil filter and replace it with a new filter. Replace the oil drain plug after all the oil and flush have drained completely into the catch basin. The drainage should take at least 10 minutes.
4. Fill the engine with fresh engine oil that meets the vehicle manufacturer's recommended specifications. After adding oil, start and run the vehicle, turning it off after five minutes. Wait another five minutes and check the oil level again with the dipstick. You may need to add more oil.
5. Do a complete oil change with another new oil filter after approximately 100 miles of usage. This step is optional but serves to remove any remaining sludge that may have become dislodged after using the vehicle. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Flush the engine oil system. You can purchase a quality engine flush at your local auto parts store. Replace the vehicle's old oil filter with a new filter and add one bottle of engine oil system flush. Make sure the oil level is at its maximum safe limit, as indicated on the dipstick. Loosen the oil drain plug and allow some oil to drain into a catch basin before adding the engine oil flush. Tighten the drain plug again.
2. Turn on the engine. Allow it to idle for approximately 15 minutes. Do not rev the engine or put it into gear. Shut the engine down after 15 minutes.
3. Remove the engine flush. Remove the drain plug from the oil pan and allow the oil and flush to drain into a catch basin. Remove the oil filter and replace it with a new filter. Replace the oil drain plug after all the oil and flush have drained completely into the catch basin. The drainage should take at least 10 minutes.
4. Fill the engine with fresh engine oil that meets the vehicle manufacturer's recommended specifications. After adding oil, start and run the vehicle, turning it off after five minutes. Wait another five minutes and check the oil level again with the dipstick. You may need to add more oil.
5. Do a complete oil change with another new oil filter after approximately 100 miles of usage. This step is optional but serves to remove any remaining sludge that may have become dislodged after using the vehicle. Read More »»
Line Boring & Cutting Tools
Line boring is the process of enlarging the bore, or inside diameter, of a piece of pipe or other type of substance that has an inside and outside diameter and that is hollow. Line boring is often used with engines, for boring out cylinders to increase the diameter during an engine rebuild or in the manufacture of all kinds of pipes and other cylindrical items. There are a number of different line boring and cutting tools available, and each one has a specific purpose as well as a best use.
Large Boring Machines
Large line boring machines are often used in stationary applications, such as in factories where equipment is produced or rebuilt. These machines are very large and are not portable, but they are very precise, able to bore and hone the interior of a metal surface to within thousandths of an inch of tolerance in order to make sure that machined parts can fit together. These machines often cost tens of thousands of dollars or more and are rarely seen by anyone outside of the machine tool industry.
Carbide Cutting and Boring Tools
Carbide cutting and boring tools are used on large and small boring machines in order to actually do the material removal required for the application in question. Carbide tools are generally harder than steel and may have removable carbide tips that can be replaced when they get dull from repeated use. Carbide cutting and boring tools come in a variety of styles, including bit-type styles that are designed to be used with a drill or drilling machines.
Honing Tools
Honing tools are another component of the line boring and cutting industry. After a hole has been bored out or enlarged using a carbide cutting tool, the surface that has been cut must be honed, or polished, in order to ensure that no burrs or other metal problems remain. Honing tools are made of stones with very fine grit that can be inserted into the hole and spun at high velocity to create a non-directional surface that is smooth as glass and free of scratches or high spots that might damage the machinery. Read More »»
Large Boring Machines
Large line boring machines are often used in stationary applications, such as in factories where equipment is produced or rebuilt. These machines are very large and are not portable, but they are very precise, able to bore and hone the interior of a metal surface to within thousandths of an inch of tolerance in order to make sure that machined parts can fit together. These machines often cost tens of thousands of dollars or more and are rarely seen by anyone outside of the machine tool industry.
Carbide Cutting and Boring Tools
Carbide cutting and boring tools are used on large and small boring machines in order to actually do the material removal required for the application in question. Carbide tools are generally harder than steel and may have removable carbide tips that can be replaced when they get dull from repeated use. Carbide cutting and boring tools come in a variety of styles, including bit-type styles that are designed to be used with a drill or drilling machines.
Honing Tools
Honing tools are another component of the line boring and cutting industry. After a hole has been bored out or enlarged using a carbide cutting tool, the surface that has been cut must be honed, or polished, in order to ensure that no burrs or other metal problems remain. Honing tools are made of stones with very fine grit that can be inserted into the hole and spun at high velocity to create a non-directional surface that is smooth as glass and free of scratches or high spots that might damage the machinery. Read More »»
Remove a Thrust Bearing
A thrust bearing is an axle located inside an engine that rotates on its axis when force is applied on it. The bearing works to reduce friction by absorbing the large amount of thrust that is produced on the engine shaft that it supports. This ensures that the engine runs smoothly and quietly. Having a thrust bearing that works properly is important for the health of the engine. If it becomes necessary for you to replace a thrust bearing in your vehicle, it will require several hours of your time as a number of engine parts will need to be moved out of the way before you can access the bearing.
Procedures:
1. Remove the intake manifold. Most manifolds will be held in place by 16 bolts and you will need to remove all of them. Put the manifold aside.
2. Remove the radiator. Remove the bolts holding the radiator in place and pull it out. You may have to remove the fan first. Do not unhook the hose. Otherwise you will need to drain it first by placing a pan under it and opening the drain plug at the bottom of it.
3. Remove the alternator. Unplug the battery then follow the positive battery cable to the alternator. Loosen the alternator's tension bolt with a torque wrench, until the alternator can be turned. Remove the alternator fan then remove the tension bolt completely as well as the mounting bolt. Lift the alternator out.
4. Remove the water pump. It will be visible and accessible after removing the parts mentioned in the previous steps and will be attached to the front of the engine block. Use a socket wrench to remove the bolt holding it in place and lift it out. Do not disconnect the hose.
5. Remove the air condition compressor. Unplug the electrical connections. Remove the mounting bolts and lift the air condition compressor out.
6. Remove the power steering pump. Remove the bolts holding the pump in place and pull it out. Leave the hose attached otherwise you will have to drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir.
7. Remove the camshaft. Remove the bolts that hold it in place. There will usually be two or three. Loosen the valve rockers then remove the push rods and lifters by prying them off with a flat head screwdriver. Line up the push rods together with the corresponding lifter in the order they were in before you removed them. You will need to put them back in the exact slot they were in later. Carefully pull the camshaft out of the engine.
8. Remove the thrust bearing. At the back of the engine you will see the thrust bearing retainer plate held in place by two or three bolts. Remove these bolts and pull the thrust bearing out. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Remove the intake manifold. Most manifolds will be held in place by 16 bolts and you will need to remove all of them. Put the manifold aside.
2. Remove the radiator. Remove the bolts holding the radiator in place and pull it out. You may have to remove the fan first. Do not unhook the hose. Otherwise you will need to drain it first by placing a pan under it and opening the drain plug at the bottom of it.
3. Remove the alternator. Unplug the battery then follow the positive battery cable to the alternator. Loosen the alternator's tension bolt with a torque wrench, until the alternator can be turned. Remove the alternator fan then remove the tension bolt completely as well as the mounting bolt. Lift the alternator out.
4. Remove the water pump. It will be visible and accessible after removing the parts mentioned in the previous steps and will be attached to the front of the engine block. Use a socket wrench to remove the bolt holding it in place and lift it out. Do not disconnect the hose.
5. Remove the air condition compressor. Unplug the electrical connections. Remove the mounting bolts and lift the air condition compressor out.
6. Remove the power steering pump. Remove the bolts holding the pump in place and pull it out. Leave the hose attached otherwise you will have to drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir.
7. Remove the camshaft. Remove the bolts that hold it in place. There will usually be two or three. Loosen the valve rockers then remove the push rods and lifters by prying them off with a flat head screwdriver. Line up the push rods together with the corresponding lifter in the order they were in before you removed them. You will need to put them back in the exact slot they were in later. Carefully pull the camshaft out of the engine.
8. Remove the thrust bearing. At the back of the engine you will see the thrust bearing retainer plate held in place by two or three bolts. Remove these bolts and pull the thrust bearing out. Read More »»
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