Cummins engines have had problems, especially the 1999, 2000 and 2001 models. In these years, the Cummins 5.9-liter engine was prone to cracks in the side block. According to Lock-N-Stitch, Inc. there was no recall of the engine. Cracks in the engine caused by thermal expansion stress decreased the flow of coolant. Essentially, the design of the engine restricted the flow of coolant to the cylinders, cylinder head, and lower walls and outer walls of the engine block. Engage in a routine troubleshooting schedule if you own a vehicle with a Cummins engine.
Procedures:
1. Look for white smoke coming from the tail pipe. White smoke indicates that the coolant and the oil have mixed in the engine.
2. Check the color and consistency of the oil in the Cummins engine. If the oil is thick, milky and light brown in color, then the engine is blown.
3. Listen to the sound of the engine as it fires up. Oil fouled spark plugs can cause a misfire sound. Worn pistons cause a rapid ticking sound.
4. Tune up the engine if it is smoking and running rough, but run a cylinder balance test beforehand. If the cylinders are not running correctly, a tune up won't help the problem. A cylinder balance test determines if the cylinders in the engine are producing equal amounts of power. Use an engine analyzer, attach the cables to the spark plug, push the button on the analyzer and the spark plug will short out. Print out the engine speed reading. If the engine speed changes, there is an issue with the cylinder. This test also will determine which cylinders have bad valves and compression rings.
5. Conduct an engine misfire test. Misfire codes are in the P0300 range. Random misfire is a PO300 code. This test determines if an individual cylinder is not firing. A P0301 code is a misfire of cylinder 1 and a P0308 is a misfire in cylinder 8. The engine analyzer is a handheld device that attaches to the diagnostic harness of the vehicle's computerized system. The vehicle will run rough, lack acceleration power and get poor gas mileage.
6. Attach the engine analyzer to the diagnostic harness of the vehicle's computerized system to determine if there is a secondary ignition failure. From the secondary ignition pattern print-out, you can read where the vehicle is having air/fuel issues and mechanical faults. If it indicates a problem, you may need to replace the ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and/or rotor. Get a secondary ignition pattern from the dealership showing how the engine needs to fire. Compare your reading to that of a normal secondary ignition pattern to determine if the engine is firing correctly at the point of turning the engine over.
Read More »»
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Remove a Motorcycle Cylinder Head
Motorcycles are high-compression, high-revving engines that typically do not last as long as automobile engines. You can expect to rebuild your motorcycle's engine at about 100,000 miles or less, depending on the size of the engine. For a top-end overhaul, you would remove the cylinder head and replace the pistons, rods and rings.
Procedures:
1. Remove the four bolts that secure the rocker cover to the top of the cylinder head. In some cases, the bolts require a 16-point socket. This is common in Harley-Davidson Evolution engines. Most other motors will require a standard hex-head socket. Pull the rocker cover off of the valve box.
2. Remove the four nuts that secure the valve box to the cylinder head with a socket and ratchet. Pull the valve box off of the cylinder head.
3. Remove the two bolts on the cylinder head that secure the intake manifold. This typically requires a hex-head socket, but in some cases, the heads on the bolts might require an Allen wrench.
4. Pull straight up on the cylinder head to remove it from the crankcase. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Remove the four bolts that secure the rocker cover to the top of the cylinder head. In some cases, the bolts require a 16-point socket. This is common in Harley-Davidson Evolution engines. Most other motors will require a standard hex-head socket. Pull the rocker cover off of the valve box.
2. Remove the four nuts that secure the valve box to the cylinder head with a socket and ratchet. Pull the valve box off of the cylinder head.
3. Remove the two bolts on the cylinder head that secure the intake manifold. This typically requires a hex-head socket, but in some cases, the heads on the bolts might require an Allen wrench.
4. Pull straight up on the cylinder head to remove it from the crankcase. Read More »»
Find an Oil Leak on the 1995 Camry
The oil in your 1995 Camry's engine serves two main purposes. The first is to ensure that all the engine's working and moving parts are lubricated to reduce friction and wear. The second is to keep certain parts of the engine cool and prevent overheating. If a leak is draining oil from the system, your Camry's engine could seize. It is important to locate the source of the oil leak and repair it.
Procedures:
1. Open the hood of your Toyota Camry. Locate the oil cap on the engine, and then open the cap. The oil cap is found on the valve cover.
2. Pour the ultraviolet dye into the oil crankcase of the Camry. Start the engine, and allow it to run for about 10 minutes. Take the Camry for a short drive around the block. This will help the dye circulate through the engine.
3. Use a jack to lift up the front end of the Camry. Use jack stands to support the front end of the frame. Use the jack to raise up the rear end. Use jack stands to support the rear frame. Leave the engine of the vehicle running while it is on the jack stands.
4. Put on your ultraviolet glasses; crawl beneath your Camry. Scan the underneath with an ultraviolet flashlight to try and locate the source of the leak. Look for any area that might be leaking a bright-yellow liquid. This will be the source of the leak, as the dye you poured into the oil crankshaft will show up under the UV flashlight. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Open the hood of your Toyota Camry. Locate the oil cap on the engine, and then open the cap. The oil cap is found on the valve cover.
2. Pour the ultraviolet dye into the oil crankcase of the Camry. Start the engine, and allow it to run for about 10 minutes. Take the Camry for a short drive around the block. This will help the dye circulate through the engine.
3. Use a jack to lift up the front end of the Camry. Use jack stands to support the front end of the frame. Use the jack to raise up the rear end. Use jack stands to support the rear frame. Leave the engine of the vehicle running while it is on the jack stands.
4. Put on your ultraviolet glasses; crawl beneath your Camry. Scan the underneath with an ultraviolet flashlight to try and locate the source of the leak. Look for any area that might be leaking a bright-yellow liquid. This will be the source of the leak, as the dye you poured into the oil crankshaft will show up under the UV flashlight. Read More »»
Take Off VW Bug Emblems
Volkswagon (VW) Beetles, or Bugs, are iconic cars that carry the VW emblem on both the front hood and hatchback. The emblem is silver and black in the U.S. or blue-on-white in Europe. Removing the emblem is necessary prior to repainting the VW bug. Aftermarket body refinishers or car art enthusiasts can also remove the emblem to replace with a design creation or emblem of their own. A few simple tools are all it takes to remove the emblem.
Procedures:
1. Wrap the flat head screwdriver with electrical tape to prevent damage to the paint. Slip the screw driver behind the front emblem and pry carefully from the hood. The emblem is glued to the hood.
2. Remove residue from the hood with adhesive remover. Add adhesive remover to the shop towels and rub gently until the adhesive residue removes.
3. Open the hatchback. Remove the screws from inside the handle. Remove the cover that the screws held in. Pull off the wiring harnesses and let them hang. Snip off tie wrap. Clip the long rod that connects the white bell crank to the hatch lock. Unscrew the three screws that hold in a strange black metal bracket. Remove the bracket.
4. Unscrew the three 6mm star bolts with the 6mm star tool. Pull out the base and carrier. Remove the e-clip connected to the emblem. Remove the emblem from the outside of the hatchback. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Wrap the flat head screwdriver with electrical tape to prevent damage to the paint. Slip the screw driver behind the front emblem and pry carefully from the hood. The emblem is glued to the hood.
2. Remove residue from the hood with adhesive remover. Add adhesive remover to the shop towels and rub gently until the adhesive residue removes.
3. Open the hatchback. Remove the screws from inside the handle. Remove the cover that the screws held in. Pull off the wiring harnesses and let them hang. Snip off tie wrap. Clip the long rod that connects the white bell crank to the hatch lock. Unscrew the three screws that hold in a strange black metal bracket. Remove the bracket.
4. Unscrew the three 6mm star bolts with the 6mm star tool. Pull out the base and carrier. Remove the e-clip connected to the emblem. Remove the emblem from the outside of the hatchback. Read More »»
Monday, December 27, 2010
Chevrolet Colorado Engine Problems
The Chevrolet Colorado is a mid-sized pickup truck first released in 2004. The Chevy Colorado features numerous engine options that range in size from 2.8-liters to 5.3-liters. Engine problems are common with specific models and may occur if Chevrolet suggested maintenance isn't followed.
2004-05 Engine Misfire
According to Consumer Guide Automotive, the 2004 and 2005 Chevy Colorado are known to misfire. An illuminated check-engine light will accompany the misfiring engine. The misfiring is caused by compromised exhaust valve springs. Replacing the exhaust valve springs will fix the problem.
2004-06 Fuel Gauge Issue
The 2004, 2005 and 2006 Colorado fuel gauge sensor and indicator are known to misread fuel levels. If the engine does not turn on and the fuel gauge reads full, the tank may actually be empty of gas. Models known for this problem include all California models and those with a 4-cylinder or 5-cylinder engine.
Suggested Maintenance
The 2009 Chevrolet Colorado owner manual suggests an exhaust system inspection every 25,000 miles. After reaching 100,000 miles, spark plug replacement is suggested. Inspection of the engine accessory drive belt is suggested at 150,000 miles. Read More »»
2004-05 Engine Misfire
According to Consumer Guide Automotive, the 2004 and 2005 Chevy Colorado are known to misfire. An illuminated check-engine light will accompany the misfiring engine. The misfiring is caused by compromised exhaust valve springs. Replacing the exhaust valve springs will fix the problem.
2004-06 Fuel Gauge Issue
The 2004, 2005 and 2006 Colorado fuel gauge sensor and indicator are known to misread fuel levels. If the engine does not turn on and the fuel gauge reads full, the tank may actually be empty of gas. Models known for this problem include all California models and those with a 4-cylinder or 5-cylinder engine.
Suggested Maintenance
The 2009 Chevrolet Colorado owner manual suggests an exhaust system inspection every 25,000 miles. After reaching 100,000 miles, spark plug replacement is suggested. Inspection of the engine accessory drive belt is suggested at 150,000 miles. Read More »»
Features of 1936 Chevy Master Coupe
Chevrolet produced more than 918,000 vehicles in 1936. The 1936 Chevrolet, which became a renowned collector's car, originally appeared in two body styles --- the Standard and Master DeLuxe. Each trim had its own small variations, such as the wheelbases. Though the majority of 1936 Chevy Master Coupe owners have upgraded the vehicles using contemporary parts and "mods," collectors continue to cherish its classic exterior.
Specifications
The 1936 Chevy came with a three-speed manual transmission, fairly standard for its time. The Master Deluxe represented an upgrade on the 1936 Standard Chevy, with its wheelbase of 109 inches on all its styles. The four-by-two, rear-wheel drive, front-motor vehicle had a 113-inch wheelbase.
Original Price
The Master DeLuxe cost $560 as a base price in its day. It came in coach, coupe, cabriolet, sedan, sport sedan and town sedan versions. The most expensive trim at the time was the four-door, five-passenger Sport Sedan, which weighed 3,080 lbs. and cost $665.
Standard Vs. Master DeLuxe
Chevrolet produced approximately 280,000 Master DeLuxe models --- more than it did of the Standard. Though Chevy built only 220,000, Standard models proved more popular at the time, and the two-door, five passenger Town Sedan sold best at $535. In 2010, an unaltered 1936 Master Deluxe sells for about $18,500.
Colors
The car comes in colors with names that evoke the high-end lifestyles of the period, many of which sound anachronistic as of 2010: Regent Maroon, Cranbrook Gray, Willow Green, Navy Blue, Cabana Cream, Kingswood Gray, Beaver Brown, Taupe Metallic, Hollywood Tan, Frosty Green and Regatta Red. Read More »»
Specifications
The 1936 Chevy came with a three-speed manual transmission, fairly standard for its time. The Master Deluxe represented an upgrade on the 1936 Standard Chevy, with its wheelbase of 109 inches on all its styles. The four-by-two, rear-wheel drive, front-motor vehicle had a 113-inch wheelbase.
Original Price
The Master DeLuxe cost $560 as a base price in its day. It came in coach, coupe, cabriolet, sedan, sport sedan and town sedan versions. The most expensive trim at the time was the four-door, five-passenger Sport Sedan, which weighed 3,080 lbs. and cost $665.
Standard Vs. Master DeLuxe
Chevrolet produced approximately 280,000 Master DeLuxe models --- more than it did of the Standard. Though Chevy built only 220,000, Standard models proved more popular at the time, and the two-door, five passenger Town Sedan sold best at $535. In 2010, an unaltered 1936 Master Deluxe sells for about $18,500.
Colors
The car comes in colors with names that evoke the high-end lifestyles of the period, many of which sound anachronistic as of 2010: Regent Maroon, Cranbrook Gray, Willow Green, Navy Blue, Cabana Cream, Kingswood Gray, Beaver Brown, Taupe Metallic, Hollywood Tan, Frosty Green and Regatta Red. Read More »»
Information on Chevy 2 Nova Six Cylinder Engines
The Chevy II Nova was a mid-sized economy car introduced by the Chevrolet Division of General Motors in 1962. By 1965 the Nova was developed into a V8 powered muscle car. Throughout its production the Chevy II Nova was available with a fuel-efficient six-cylinder engine.
194 Hi-Thrift
The 1962 Chevy II Nova used a Hi-Thrift in-line six-cylinder engine with wedge shaped combustion chambers. It displaced 194.37 cubic-inches and produced 120 horsepower with 177 ft-lbs of torque. The motor ran on regular gasoline and used a single-barrel Rochester carburetor. It was descended from the stovebolt 194, GM's first straight-six engine introduced in 1929.
230 Turbo-Thrift
By 1964 the Chevy II Nova was available with a 230 cubic-inch Turbo-Thrift straight-six engine. The overhead valve motor had a cast iron alloy block with hydraulic valve lifters. GM developed the engine from the earlier 235 six-cylinder by decreasing its stroke to 3.25 inches. The 230 generated 140 horsepower with 220 ft-lbs of torque.
250 Turbo-Thrift
By 1969, Chevy Novas could be bought with a Turbo-Thrift 250 cubic-inch straight six engine. The third-generation engine was naturally aspirated and used a Rochester downdraft one-barrel carburetor. It produced 145 horsepower with 230 ft-lbs of torque. The crankshaft rode on seven main-bearings. The engine had a distributor and coil ignition system. Read More »»
194 Hi-Thrift
The 1962 Chevy II Nova used a Hi-Thrift in-line six-cylinder engine with wedge shaped combustion chambers. It displaced 194.37 cubic-inches and produced 120 horsepower with 177 ft-lbs of torque. The motor ran on regular gasoline and used a single-barrel Rochester carburetor. It was descended from the stovebolt 194, GM's first straight-six engine introduced in 1929.
230 Turbo-Thrift
By 1964 the Chevy II Nova was available with a 230 cubic-inch Turbo-Thrift straight-six engine. The overhead valve motor had a cast iron alloy block with hydraulic valve lifters. GM developed the engine from the earlier 235 six-cylinder by decreasing its stroke to 3.25 inches. The 230 generated 140 horsepower with 220 ft-lbs of torque.
250 Turbo-Thrift
By 1969, Chevy Novas could be bought with a Turbo-Thrift 250 cubic-inch straight six engine. The third-generation engine was naturally aspirated and used a Rochester downdraft one-barrel carburetor. It produced 145 horsepower with 230 ft-lbs of torque. The crankshaft rode on seven main-bearings. The engine had a distributor and coil ignition system. Read More »»
Port & Polish SBC Heads
The relationship between cylinder head airflow and horsepower is very nearly linear. You can replace the intake manifold, exhaust and camshafts, but ultimately, airflow through head determines engine power. Only replacing or re-working the cylinder head will allow your engine to reach its ultimate potential.
Procedures:
1. Lay an old intake manifold gasket over your head's intake manifold mounting surface, then spray the assembly with a very light coat of white spray paint. When you remove the gasket you'll find a white ring around the port, which indicates the size of the ridge between the head intake port and manifold runners. Remove the area covered with white paint, and smooth the ridge to about an inch into your intake port. This gasket-matching procedure is fairly simple, and is the only one that you can perform with the head still on the car. If you're gasket-matching without removing the head, stuff a rag into your intake port with a dowel rod to keep metal shavings out of the cylinders. Just don't forget to remove it.
2. Repeat the gasket-matching procedure on the exhaust ports, but leave a 1/8-inch of white-painted material around the port. This step effectively forms an expansion chamber in the exhaust manifold, which creates a slight vacuum to pull expanding gases out of the cylinder.
3. Smooth the bowl area, which is the pocket behind the valve head. The bowl area contains an approximately 1/16-inch-wide ridge where the valve seat mates to the head. This ridge is a huge disruption to airflow, especially at low valve lifts where the airflow must stick close to the bowl wall to go into the cylinder. Run a cylindrical carbide cutter bit or grinding stone around the inside of the bowl area to blend the valve seat into the head. Do not polish this area completely smooth; the slight roughness in the bowl area will create a small amount of turbulence to keep fuel atomized as it enters the cylinder.
4. Remove between 3/16 an 1/8-inch material from the apex of the short-side turn, where the port starts to bend down toward the valve. Then, smooth the removed area about an inch and a half into the floor of port toward the intake port entrance. Smooth the short-side turn into the bowl area in a likewise manner, and repeat on the exhaust side. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Lay an old intake manifold gasket over your head's intake manifold mounting surface, then spray the assembly with a very light coat of white spray paint. When you remove the gasket you'll find a white ring around the port, which indicates the size of the ridge between the head intake port and manifold runners. Remove the area covered with white paint, and smooth the ridge to about an inch into your intake port. This gasket-matching procedure is fairly simple, and is the only one that you can perform with the head still on the car. If you're gasket-matching without removing the head, stuff a rag into your intake port with a dowel rod to keep metal shavings out of the cylinders. Just don't forget to remove it.
2. Repeat the gasket-matching procedure on the exhaust ports, but leave a 1/8-inch of white-painted material around the port. This step effectively forms an expansion chamber in the exhaust manifold, which creates a slight vacuum to pull expanding gases out of the cylinder.
3. Smooth the bowl area, which is the pocket behind the valve head. The bowl area contains an approximately 1/16-inch-wide ridge where the valve seat mates to the head. This ridge is a huge disruption to airflow, especially at low valve lifts where the airflow must stick close to the bowl wall to go into the cylinder. Run a cylindrical carbide cutter bit or grinding stone around the inside of the bowl area to blend the valve seat into the head. Do not polish this area completely smooth; the slight roughness in the bowl area will create a small amount of turbulence to keep fuel atomized as it enters the cylinder.
4. Remove between 3/16 an 1/8-inch material from the apex of the short-side turn, where the port starts to bend down toward the valve. Then, smooth the removed area about an inch and a half into the floor of port toward the intake port entrance. Smooth the short-side turn into the bowl area in a likewise manner, and repeat on the exhaust side. Read More »»
Sebring Convertible Stalling Problems
Chrysler Sebring Convertibles are reliable vehicles but they reportedly can develop stalling problems at around 90,000 miles. After the car has stalled and the driver waits a few moments, the Sebring can start again and run well. This is a problem that can be difficult to diagnose. The problem is related to the flow of gasoline to the engine, possibly involving the fuel pump, according to Edmunds.com.
Check the Fuel Pump
Check to see if the fuel pump is functioning correctly. If the engine is starved for gas, it will stall.
Cause of the Stalling
Look for corrosion on the outside of the fuel tank. If the tank is corroded, pieces of metal can flake off the interior of the tank and clog the intake to the fuel pump. This debris and the resulting blockage can starve the engine of gas and will cause your Sebring to stall.
Solution to Stalling Problems
Replace the fuel pump if it is not functioning correctly. Check the fuel filter for blockage from debris as a result of fuel tank corrosion. If the intake is clogged with debris, the fuel line must be flushed and a new gas tank installed. Read More »»
Check the Fuel Pump
Check to see if the fuel pump is functioning correctly. If the engine is starved for gas, it will stall.
Cause of the Stalling
Look for corrosion on the outside of the fuel tank. If the tank is corroded, pieces of metal can flake off the interior of the tank and clog the intake to the fuel pump. This debris and the resulting blockage can starve the engine of gas and will cause your Sebring to stall.
Solution to Stalling Problems
Replace the fuel pump if it is not functioning correctly. Check the fuel filter for blockage from debris as a result of fuel tank corrosion. If the intake is clogged with debris, the fuel line must be flushed and a new gas tank installed. Read More »»
Friday, December 24, 2010
Change a Dipstick Tube
The dipstick tube is what holds the dipstick -- a metal rod that measures the amount of fluid inside the vehicle -- in place. You can usually find the tube near the engine block. If you need to replace the dipstick tube because of normal wear, breakage or rust development, you can complete the process easily with a little automotive knowledge and items that can be found around your home. Doing the job yourself instead of taking your car to an automotive repair center will save you time and money.
Procedures:
1. Make sure your car is parked and the engine is cool. Open the hood to access the engine.
2. Find the dipstick. Look for a large ring that you pull to take the dipstick out of the tube, usually located in the engine well around the exhaust manifold.
3. Unscrew the bolts that are on the bracket on the dipstick tube with a wrench. Slide the bracket off of the tube.
4. Pull the ring and remove the dipstick from the tube. Find the clips that are connecting the tube to the oil container below it.
5. Release the clips by pressing them both down simultaneously. Use a small piece of plastic or another small item to hold the clips open. Wedge the plastic in between the clips.
6. Fill the tube with paper towels, tissues or napkins to catch any small parts that might fall through. Grip the tube and pull the tube up with pliers. Do not pull too hard, but continue until the tube is released.
7. Place the new tube into the car. Make sure it is in the same position as the old dipstick tube. Snap the clips firmly into place.
8. Replace the bracket and bolts with a wrench. Turn the bolts until they are snug. Put the dipstick back into the new tube. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Make sure your car is parked and the engine is cool. Open the hood to access the engine.
2. Find the dipstick. Look for a large ring that you pull to take the dipstick out of the tube, usually located in the engine well around the exhaust manifold.
3. Unscrew the bolts that are on the bracket on the dipstick tube with a wrench. Slide the bracket off of the tube.
4. Pull the ring and remove the dipstick from the tube. Find the clips that are connecting the tube to the oil container below it.
5. Release the clips by pressing them both down simultaneously. Use a small piece of plastic or another small item to hold the clips open. Wedge the plastic in between the clips.
6. Fill the tube with paper towels, tissues or napkins to catch any small parts that might fall through. Grip the tube and pull the tube up with pliers. Do not pull too hard, but continue until the tube is released.
7. Place the new tube into the car. Make sure it is in the same position as the old dipstick tube. Snap the clips firmly into place.
8. Replace the bracket and bolts with a wrench. Turn the bolts until they are snug. Put the dipstick back into the new tube. Read More »»
Replace the Valve Cover Gasket on the 1998 Toyota Camry
Replace the valve cover gasket on the 1998 Toyota Camry as soon as you notice it leaking. There are several types of engines used in the 1998 Camry. In some of them, you must remove the spark plug wires and plugs to get the valve cover off. The valve cover gasket kit should come with new grommets for the spark plug holes -- if not, purchase new grommets separately. Do not rely on the old grommets, as oil could leak onto the spark plugs and affect the running of the vehicle.
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, using the appropriate wrench. Set it aside, ensuring that it does not touch metal. Mark any wiring connectors and vacuum lines that are attached to the valve cover. Unplug the connectors and vacuum lines. They will vary for the different engines in the 1998 Camry.
2. Pull the PCV hose out of the valve cover to disconnect it. If your particular engine has the spark plugs through the valve cover, mark the spark plug wires. Remove the wires, then remove the plugs, using the spark plug socket, ratchet and 6-inch extension.
3. Remove the six nuts and seal washers from the cover, starting with the middle valve cover-retaining bolts and working in a crisscross pattern. Remove the valve cover. If it doesn't come off easily, don't pry it off -- tap it with the rubber mallet to break the seal.
4. Clean the gasket-mounting surfaces of the valve cover and the head, using the brush and rags. Remove all old gasket material. Spread a thin layer of RTV silicone on the valve cover's mounting surface. Fit the gasket onto the valve cover and press it into the RTV. If the engine has spark plug wires that go through the valve cover, remove the old grommets on the spark plug holes and insert new ones.
5. Install the valve cover and tighten the six nuts to 65 inch-pounds of torque, working from the center out, in a crisscross pattern. If you removed the plugs and wires, reinstall them, ensuring that the wires go into the proper spark plug hole, as marked before you took them off. Reconnect the PCV hose and all wiring connectors and vacuum lines. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, using the appropriate wrench. Set it aside, ensuring that it does not touch metal. Mark any wiring connectors and vacuum lines that are attached to the valve cover. Unplug the connectors and vacuum lines. They will vary for the different engines in the 1998 Camry.
2. Pull the PCV hose out of the valve cover to disconnect it. If your particular engine has the spark plugs through the valve cover, mark the spark plug wires. Remove the wires, then remove the plugs, using the spark plug socket, ratchet and 6-inch extension.
3. Remove the six nuts and seal washers from the cover, starting with the middle valve cover-retaining bolts and working in a crisscross pattern. Remove the valve cover. If it doesn't come off easily, don't pry it off -- tap it with the rubber mallet to break the seal.
4. Clean the gasket-mounting surfaces of the valve cover and the head, using the brush and rags. Remove all old gasket material. Spread a thin layer of RTV silicone on the valve cover's mounting surface. Fit the gasket onto the valve cover and press it into the RTV. If the engine has spark plug wires that go through the valve cover, remove the old grommets on the spark plug holes and insert new ones.
5. Install the valve cover and tighten the six nuts to 65 inch-pounds of torque, working from the center out, in a crisscross pattern. If you removed the plugs and wires, reinstall them, ensuring that the wires go into the proper spark plug hole, as marked before you took them off. Reconnect the PCV hose and all wiring connectors and vacuum lines. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Read More »»
Install a 2001 Ford Taurus Valve Cover Gasket
The Ford Taurus engine uses two different methods to seal the valve cover to the engine head. Some models use a pre-cured reusable gasket, while other models use silicone sealant to form a bead of sealing material. On models that are equipped with plastic valve covers, either the silicone or gasket may be used; on models that have aluminum valve covers, silicone must be used. Use the type of gasket material that originally was used by the factory on your engine
Procedures:
1. Unhook the negative battery clamp; this is the one with the (-) on it.
2. Remove any hoses or wires that are on top of the valve cover. Label them so you can put them back in the right location.
3. Remove the valve cover bolts by using the wrench to turn them counterclockwise. Remove the valve cover from the engine. Scrape off any old gasket material with the scraper.
4. Install the new gasket or new silicone sealer and allow it to dry for a few minutes. Put the valve cover back on the engine.
5. Tighten the valve cover bolts by turning them clockwise with the wrench. Replace the wires and hoses. Connect the negative battery clamp and start the engine checking for leaks. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Unhook the negative battery clamp; this is the one with the (-) on it.
2. Remove any hoses or wires that are on top of the valve cover. Label them so you can put them back in the right location.
3. Remove the valve cover bolts by using the wrench to turn them counterclockwise. Remove the valve cover from the engine. Scrape off any old gasket material with the scraper.
4. Install the new gasket or new silicone sealer and allow it to dry for a few minutes. Put the valve cover back on the engine.
5. Tighten the valve cover bolts by turning them clockwise with the wrench. Replace the wires and hoses. Connect the negative battery clamp and start the engine checking for leaks. Read More »»
Troubleshoot a Blown Head Gasket with No Signs
Blown head gaskets are expensive repairs, and are most often caused by an overheated engine. Some compact engine designs, however, are prone to head gasket failure under normal operating conditions. These are generally four-cylinder engines that have higher compression, aggressive fuel injection systems and are geared towards performance. These modifications stress the engine integrity and a common failure point is the head gasket, because the gasket is unable to contain the added boost inside of the cylinders.
Procedures:
1. Raise the hood of the car and use a socket wrench to remove all the spark plugs. Label the wires with masking tape if necessary to orient the wires for reinstallation.
2. Screw in a compression gauge in one of the cylinders. Have an assistant crank the engine over and read the gauge. Note the reading and compare it to the manufacturer's specifications. Small engines that are geared for performance will read as high as 150 pounds per square inch (psi).
3. Continue this process with each cylinder. Two adjacent cylinders with a blown head gasket will share the same, low reading number, and may not reach 100 psi. If the readings are as low as 125 psi on a small, performance engine, the engine won't run. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Raise the hood of the car and use a socket wrench to remove all the spark plugs. Label the wires with masking tape if necessary to orient the wires for reinstallation.
2. Screw in a compression gauge in one of the cylinders. Have an assistant crank the engine over and read the gauge. Note the reading and compare it to the manufacturer's specifications. Small engines that are geared for performance will read as high as 150 pounds per square inch (psi).
3. Continue this process with each cylinder. Two adjacent cylinders with a blown head gasket will share the same, low reading number, and may not reach 100 psi. If the readings are as low as 125 psi on a small, performance engine, the engine won't run. Read More »»
Remove the Exhaust Manifold Gasket on a Buick LeSabre
An exhaust leak can be frustrating. While exhaust leaks are often difficult to identify, worn exhaust manifold gaskets are often the problem. Removing worn exhaust manifold gaskets and replacing them with new gaskets on a Buick LeSabre is a small, inexpensive project for a do-it-yourself mechanic. With a few tools and a bit of time, you can remove failing exhaust manifold gaskets and replace them with new gaskets to increase the performance of your Buick LeSabre.
Procedures:
1. Allow the engine and exhaust manifold to completely cool.
2. Disconnect any tubing from the exhaust manifold.
3. Loosen and remove the exhaust manifold bolts. If the bolts are resistant, use a penetrating oil to loosen them.
4. Remove the exhaust manifold and gaskets from the engine. The exhaust manifold in a Buick LeSabre is typically secured with two studs and two nuts.
5. Clean the gasket areas on both the engine and exhaust manifold with a scraper and wire brush to remove any remaining material from the old gasket. A clean, smooth surface ensures proper installation of the new gaskets. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Allow the engine and exhaust manifold to completely cool.
2. Disconnect any tubing from the exhaust manifold.
3. Loosen and remove the exhaust manifold bolts. If the bolts are resistant, use a penetrating oil to loosen them.
4. Remove the exhaust manifold and gaskets from the engine. The exhaust manifold in a Buick LeSabre is typically secured with two studs and two nuts.
5. Clean the gasket areas on both the engine and exhaust manifold with a scraper and wire brush to remove any remaining material from the old gasket. A clean, smooth surface ensures proper installation of the new gaskets. Read More »»
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Camshaft Torque Specifications for a Mazda MX5 Engine
The Mazda MX-5, also known as the Miata, is a rear-wheel-drive Japanese sports car that has been available in the United States since 1990 and is still available today. The car features a 16-valve engine with a dual overhead camshaft and a timing belt.
Cam Cover Bolts
The camshaft cover bolts on the Mazda Miata require 43 to 78 inch-pounds of torque. In addition, to ensure that the cam cover does not leak, care should be taken to tighten the cam cover bolts in a specific order, as described in the following section.
Camshaft Bearing Bolts
The camshafts are secured to the head of the Miata's engine with 20 cam bolts. The camshaft bearing cap bolts require a final torque rating of 100 to 125 foot-pounds of torque. It is critical that the camshaft cap bolts be loosened or tightened in stages, in a specific order -- start in the middle of the engine and work in a spiral pattern toward the outside of the engine.
Maintain Camshaft Bearing Cap Position
In addition to the specific torque rating, it is advisable to record the location for each camshaft cap bearing and re-install each cap into its original position. The reason for this is that over time and because of engine wear, minor variances may develop in each cap. Read More »»
Cam Cover Bolts
The camshaft cover bolts on the Mazda Miata require 43 to 78 inch-pounds of torque. In addition, to ensure that the cam cover does not leak, care should be taken to tighten the cam cover bolts in a specific order, as described in the following section.
Camshaft Bearing Bolts
The camshafts are secured to the head of the Miata's engine with 20 cam bolts. The camshaft bearing cap bolts require a final torque rating of 100 to 125 foot-pounds of torque. It is critical that the camshaft cap bolts be loosened or tightened in stages, in a specific order -- start in the middle of the engine and work in a spiral pattern toward the outside of the engine.
Maintain Camshaft Bearing Cap Position
In addition to the specific torque rating, it is advisable to record the location for each camshaft cap bearing and re-install each cap into its original position. The reason for this is that over time and because of engine wear, minor variances may develop in each cap. Read More »»
How to Identify Chevy Suffixes
The Chevrolet suffix is the end portion of a Chevrolet engine ID code, or casting number. Primarily used on the engine block, the code was originally developed to communicate engine specifics between one department and another. It has since become an invaluable identification tool for those seeking specific engine parts at junkyards and swap meets. The information found within the suffix, which must be referenced to a Chevrolet suffix listing, identifies the engine completely, including the year, original vehicle application and any specifications particular to the engine in question.
Procedure:
1. Locate the Chevrolet engine ID code. According to Nasty Z28.com, the engine ID codes are located as follows: on small block V-8s, the code is located on the block near the font of the passenger-side cylinder head. It may be hidden by the alternator. On big block V-8s, it is above the timing chain cover, and on six-cylinder engines, it is found behind the distributor on the passenger side of the block. An example of the alphanumeric code is "V0107CLT."
2. Identify the suffix portion of the engine ID code. Using the example "V0107CLT," the suffix portion of the code is the last three letters, "CLT."
3. Reference the suffix to a Chevrolet suffix listing. Suffix reference listings can be found at NastyZ28.com and Chevy-Camaro.com (see Resources). The suffix example, "CLT," when referenced to a listing, identifies the engine as a 1973 350-cubic-inch Corvette engine with California emission standards and 165 horsepower. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Locate the Chevrolet engine ID code. According to Nasty Z28.com, the engine ID codes are located as follows: on small block V-8s, the code is located on the block near the font of the passenger-side cylinder head. It may be hidden by the alternator. On big block V-8s, it is above the timing chain cover, and on six-cylinder engines, it is found behind the distributor on the passenger side of the block. An example of the alphanumeric code is "V0107CLT."
2. Identify the suffix portion of the engine ID code. Using the example "V0107CLT," the suffix portion of the code is the last three letters, "CLT."
3. Reference the suffix to a Chevrolet suffix listing. Suffix reference listings can be found at NastyZ28.com and Chevy-Camaro.com (see Resources). The suffix example, "CLT," when referenced to a listing, identifies the engine as a 1973 350-cubic-inch Corvette engine with California emission standards and 165 horsepower. Read More »»
How to Install Head Bolts
If you have never installed head bolts, it is best to do your homework and arm yourself with the bolt torque and tightening order specs of the engine you're working on. Proper bolt lubrication, cleaning, and deburring, along with aluminum heads and washer placement, all help to make the engine work properly upon completion. There is no such thing as a quick-and-dirty job when it comes to head bolt installation: do it right or you'll have a problem on your hands.
Procedure:
1. Inspect each bolt to assure clean and undamaged threads. Use a wire brush to clear any foreign matter off the threads. Use the service manual to check proper bolt length for each location. If the head has been resurfaced, bolts may be slightly too long and bottom out before exerting the proper downward force on the head. In this case, use hardened steel washers to make up for lost head height.
2. Run a bottoming tap down each bolt hole to clear out any debris. Apply motor oil to all bolt threads and to the bottom of the bolt head. If the head is aluminum, use manufacturer-recommended hardened steel washers under each bolt head, chamfered-side up, lubricated. If the head has been resurfaced, you will have to use thicker washers to make up for lost head height to keep bolts from bottoming out. Make sure all surfaces on the head, washers and bolts are clean and burr-free.
3. Drop each bolt into its respective location and finger tighten. Use the service manual for bolt-tightening sequence. Use the beam-deflector torque wrench to tighten all bolts in 3 to 5 steps. The first step tightens all bolts in sequence to a percentage of full torque. Each subsequent step tightens all bolts in sequence to progressively higher torque specs until the final step sets the bolts to the rated final torque. Guesswork can warp the head or cause leakage and overheating.
4. Re-check torque on all bolts. If you missed one, this step will find it. Bolts are made to stretch somewhat, so the final torque check assures proper clamp force on the head. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Inspect each bolt to assure clean and undamaged threads. Use a wire brush to clear any foreign matter off the threads. Use the service manual to check proper bolt length for each location. If the head has been resurfaced, bolts may be slightly too long and bottom out before exerting the proper downward force on the head. In this case, use hardened steel washers to make up for lost head height.
2. Run a bottoming tap down each bolt hole to clear out any debris. Apply motor oil to all bolt threads and to the bottom of the bolt head. If the head is aluminum, use manufacturer-recommended hardened steel washers under each bolt head, chamfered-side up, lubricated. If the head has been resurfaced, you will have to use thicker washers to make up for lost head height to keep bolts from bottoming out. Make sure all surfaces on the head, washers and bolts are clean and burr-free.
3. Drop each bolt into its respective location and finger tighten. Use the service manual for bolt-tightening sequence. Use the beam-deflector torque wrench to tighten all bolts in 3 to 5 steps. The first step tightens all bolts in sequence to a percentage of full torque. Each subsequent step tightens all bolts in sequence to progressively higher torque specs until the final step sets the bolts to the rated final torque. Guesswork can warp the head or cause leakage and overheating.
4. Re-check torque on all bolts. If you missed one, this step will find it. Bolts are made to stretch somewhat, so the final torque check assures proper clamp force on the head. Read More »»
Directions for How to Install a Harmonic Balancer
The harmonic balancer, also known as a harmonic or crank pulley damper, lessens the vibration of your engine. It is located at the front of the engine on the crank shaft. Replacement of the harmonic balancer can be time consuming and tricky.
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, placing it safely against the battery. Drain the radiator into a large bucket; do not drain on the ground if you use coolant.
2. Remove the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items that may be in the way. Mark any wires that may be in the way for correct placement later.
3. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt, then gently pull the harmonic balancer from the crankshaft using the Special Tool 8513A insert and the jaw puller. Clean the damper bore and crankshaft nose thoroughly.
4. Slide the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft nose gently and ensure it is on as far as you can push it by hand. Press the harmonic balancer onto the crankshaft with the Special Tool 8512-A.
5. Install the harmonic balancer bolt, using the torque wrench to tighten to 176 N·m or 129 ft. lbs. Replace the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items if removed. Refill the radiator. Connect the battery cable. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, placing it safely against the battery. Drain the radiator into a large bucket; do not drain on the ground if you use coolant.
2. Remove the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items that may be in the way. Mark any wires that may be in the way for correct placement later.
3. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt, then gently pull the harmonic balancer from the crankshaft using the Special Tool 8513A insert and the jaw puller. Clean the damper bore and crankshaft nose thoroughly.
4. Slide the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft nose gently and ensure it is on as far as you can push it by hand. Press the harmonic balancer onto the crankshaft with the Special Tool 8512-A.
5. Install the harmonic balancer bolt, using the torque wrench to tighten to 176 N·m or 129 ft. lbs. Replace the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items if removed. Refill the radiator. Connect the battery cable. Read More »»
Remove a 1965 Mustang Engine
When restoring a 1965 Ford Mustang, the engine should come out, even if you don't need to rebuild it. It is easier to complete body work on the engine compartment when the engine is out of the vehicle. You might also take the engine out to rebuild it or to clean the outside of the engine so that you can have the perfect show car. Some hot-rodders also remove the engine in favor of a larger engine, but the narrow engine compartment limits your options, unless you are prepared to do some body-altering work.
Procedures:
1. Mark the hood bolts and the hood (matchmark) so that you don't have to spend an hour trying to adjust the hood when you put it back on. Slide a drain pan under the radiator petcock. Loosen the petcock and allow the radiator to drain. Slide another drain pan under the oil pan. Remove the oil pan bolt, using the appropriate socket, and allow the crankcase to drain. Dispose of the fluids in an appropriate manner.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the air duct, using the screwdriver, then remove the air ducts. Remove the air box, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the battery, negative cable first, using the appropriate wrench. Follow the battery cables down to the starter and the ground, then remove the cables, using the appropriate socket.
3. Slide an empty drain pan under the transmission lines at the radiator, then disconnect the transmission lines at the radiator, if your Mustang is an automatic, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps.
4. Break the fan bolts loose using the appropriate socket but do not remove them. Loosen the adjusting bolts for the air compressor (if equipped), the alternator and the power steering pump (if equipped). Push each accessory toward the engine to loosen tension on the belt. Lift the belts off the engine.
5. Unplug the wiring harness connectors for the air compressor and the alternator. On the alternator, use a wrench to remove the nut holding the power wire onto the alternator. Remove the power wire. Leave the hoses for the air compressor and the power steering pump attached to each accessory and move the accessories out of the way.
6. Unbolt the air conditioning condenser from the body but do not remove the lines. Tip the condenser forward, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. If the engine is a 428 CJ, 429 Super CJ, Boss 302 or Boss 429, disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the engine oil cooler, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the hold-down bracket, then lift the oil cooler out of the engine compartment.
7. Remove the fan bolts, fan and upper pulley, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump and the carburetor spacer, using a screwdriver. Remove the wiring from the starter, using the appropriate wrench. Unbolt and remove the starter, using the appropriate socket. Remove the accelerator rod at the carburetor, using a screwdriver. If you have a six-cylinder engine, remove the choke control cable at the carburetor, using a screwdriver.
8. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump on the side of the block, using a screwdriver, then block the line by sticking a bolt in it. Remove the wires from the coil, using a small wrench. Pull the coil wire off the coil tower. Unplug the oil pressure and temperature sending units.
9. Remove the clutch retracting spring, clutch equalizer shaft and arm bracket at the underbody rail, if your Mustang is a manual shift. Remove the arm bracket and the equalizer shaft, using the appropriate socket.
10. Raise the car, using a floor jack. Support it with jack stands. Remove the flywheel housing upper retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. The bolts are removed through the access holes in the floor pan. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the right and left engine mounts at the underbody brackets. Remove the flywheel housing cover. If the Mustang is a manual shift, remove the flywheel housing lower retaining bolts.
11. Disconnect the throttle valve vacuum line at the intake manifold, if the car is an automatic. Remove the converter housing lower retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. Lower the car off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the transmission and jack it up high enough to touch the transmission.
12. Attach the engine hoist to the engine by sliding bolts through the hoist chains and screwing the bolts into the bolt holes in the head. Double check that all wires and hoses are disconnected. Remove all engine mounts, using the appropriate socket. Lift the engine a few inches. Check again to ensure that all wires and hoses have been disconnected. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment and put it on an engine stand. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Mark the hood bolts and the hood (matchmark) so that you don't have to spend an hour trying to adjust the hood when you put it back on. Slide a drain pan under the radiator petcock. Loosen the petcock and allow the radiator to drain. Slide another drain pan under the oil pan. Remove the oil pan bolt, using the appropriate socket, and allow the crankcase to drain. Dispose of the fluids in an appropriate manner.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the air duct, using the screwdriver, then remove the air ducts. Remove the air box, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the battery, negative cable first, using the appropriate wrench. Follow the battery cables down to the starter and the ground, then remove the cables, using the appropriate socket.
3. Slide an empty drain pan under the transmission lines at the radiator, then disconnect the transmission lines at the radiator, if your Mustang is an automatic, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps.
4. Break the fan bolts loose using the appropriate socket but do not remove them. Loosen the adjusting bolts for the air compressor (if equipped), the alternator and the power steering pump (if equipped). Push each accessory toward the engine to loosen tension on the belt. Lift the belts off the engine.
5. Unplug the wiring harness connectors for the air compressor and the alternator. On the alternator, use a wrench to remove the nut holding the power wire onto the alternator. Remove the power wire. Leave the hoses for the air compressor and the power steering pump attached to each accessory and move the accessories out of the way.
6. Unbolt the air conditioning condenser from the body but do not remove the lines. Tip the condenser forward, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. If the engine is a 428 CJ, 429 Super CJ, Boss 302 or Boss 429, disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the engine oil cooler, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the hold-down bracket, then lift the oil cooler out of the engine compartment.
7. Remove the fan bolts, fan and upper pulley, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump and the carburetor spacer, using a screwdriver. Remove the wiring from the starter, using the appropriate wrench. Unbolt and remove the starter, using the appropriate socket. Remove the accelerator rod at the carburetor, using a screwdriver. If you have a six-cylinder engine, remove the choke control cable at the carburetor, using a screwdriver.
8. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump on the side of the block, using a screwdriver, then block the line by sticking a bolt in it. Remove the wires from the coil, using a small wrench. Pull the coil wire off the coil tower. Unplug the oil pressure and temperature sending units.
9. Remove the clutch retracting spring, clutch equalizer shaft and arm bracket at the underbody rail, if your Mustang is a manual shift. Remove the arm bracket and the equalizer shaft, using the appropriate socket.
10. Raise the car, using a floor jack. Support it with jack stands. Remove the flywheel housing upper retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. The bolts are removed through the access holes in the floor pan. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the right and left engine mounts at the underbody brackets. Remove the flywheel housing cover. If the Mustang is a manual shift, remove the flywheel housing lower retaining bolts.
11. Disconnect the throttle valve vacuum line at the intake manifold, if the car is an automatic. Remove the converter housing lower retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. Lower the car off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the transmission and jack it up high enough to touch the transmission.
12. Attach the engine hoist to the engine by sliding bolts through the hoist chains and screwing the bolts into the bolt holes in the head. Double check that all wires and hoses are disconnected. Remove all engine mounts, using the appropriate socket. Lift the engine a few inches. Check again to ensure that all wires and hoses have been disconnected. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment and put it on an engine stand. Read More »»
BBC Engine Builder Specs
The Big Block Chevy (BBC) engine has a history that began with a bang--or at least a lot of excitement. In 1963, the Chevrolet team showed up at the Daytona 500 track and proceeded to blow the competition away. Their secret weapon was a big block engine that had a displacement of 427 cubic inches. On that day, a legend was born. The builder specs of the BBC engine help explain why it is still a force to be reckoned with.
General Description
The BBC engine is a V8 with a displacement of 540.7 cubic inches.
Bore, Stroke and Compression
The bore of the big block is 4.5 inches, while the stroke is 4.25 inches. The compression of the engine is 9.90:1.
Clearance
The clearances of the Chevy big block are tight: the main bearing clearance is .0025 inches, the thrust clearance of the crankshaft is .0065 inches, the rod bearing is .0022 inches and the rod side clearance is .018 inches.
Valve Spring
The seat pressure of the valve spring is 142 pounds at 1.940, the open pressure is 402 pounds at 1.250, and the coil-bind is 1.130. Read More »»
General Description
The BBC engine is a V8 with a displacement of 540.7 cubic inches.
Bore, Stroke and Compression
The bore of the big block is 4.5 inches, while the stroke is 4.25 inches. The compression of the engine is 9.90:1.
Clearance
The clearances of the Chevy big block are tight: the main bearing clearance is .0025 inches, the thrust clearance of the crankshaft is .0065 inches, the rod bearing is .0022 inches and the rod side clearance is .018 inches.
Valve Spring
The seat pressure of the valve spring is 142 pounds at 1.940, the open pressure is 402 pounds at 1.250, and the coil-bind is 1.130. Read More »»
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