Cummins engines have had problems, especially the 1999, 2000 and 2001 models. In these years, the Cummins 5.9-liter engine was prone to cracks in the side block. According to Lock-N-Stitch, Inc. there was no recall of the engine. Cracks in the engine caused by thermal expansion stress decreased the flow of coolant. Essentially, the design of the engine restricted the flow of coolant to the cylinders, cylinder head, and lower walls and outer walls of the engine block. Engage in a routine troubleshooting schedule if you own a vehicle with a Cummins engine.
Procedures:
1. Look for white smoke coming from the tail pipe. White smoke indicates that the coolant and the oil have mixed in the engine.
2. Check the color and consistency of the oil in the Cummins engine. If the oil is thick, milky and light brown in color, then the engine is blown.
3. Listen to the sound of the engine as it fires up. Oil fouled spark plugs can cause a misfire sound. Worn pistons cause a rapid ticking sound.
4. Tune up the engine if it is smoking and running rough, but run a cylinder balance test beforehand. If the cylinders are not running correctly, a tune up won't help the problem. A cylinder balance test determines if the cylinders in the engine are producing equal amounts of power. Use an engine analyzer, attach the cables to the spark plug, push the button on the analyzer and the spark plug will short out. Print out the engine speed reading. If the engine speed changes, there is an issue with the cylinder. This test also will determine which cylinders have bad valves and compression rings.
5. Conduct an engine misfire test. Misfire codes are in the P0300 range. Random misfire is a PO300 code. This test determines if an individual cylinder is not firing. A P0301 code is a misfire of cylinder 1 and a P0308 is a misfire in cylinder 8. The engine analyzer is a handheld device that attaches to the diagnostic harness of the vehicle's computerized system. The vehicle will run rough, lack acceleration power and get poor gas mileage.
6. Attach the engine analyzer to the diagnostic harness of the vehicle's computerized system to determine if there is a secondary ignition failure. From the secondary ignition pattern print-out, you can read where the vehicle is having air/fuel issues and mechanical faults. If it indicates a problem, you may need to replace the ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and/or rotor. Get a secondary ignition pattern from the dealership showing how the engine needs to fire. Compare your reading to that of a normal secondary ignition pattern to determine if the engine is firing correctly at the point of turning the engine over.
Read More »»
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Remove a Motorcycle Cylinder Head
Motorcycles are high-compression, high-revving engines that typically do not last as long as automobile engines. You can expect to rebuild your motorcycle's engine at about 100,000 miles or less, depending on the size of the engine. For a top-end overhaul, you would remove the cylinder head and replace the pistons, rods and rings.
Procedures:
1. Remove the four bolts that secure the rocker cover to the top of the cylinder head. In some cases, the bolts require a 16-point socket. This is common in Harley-Davidson Evolution engines. Most other motors will require a standard hex-head socket. Pull the rocker cover off of the valve box.
2. Remove the four nuts that secure the valve box to the cylinder head with a socket and ratchet. Pull the valve box off of the cylinder head.
3. Remove the two bolts on the cylinder head that secure the intake manifold. This typically requires a hex-head socket, but in some cases, the heads on the bolts might require an Allen wrench.
4. Pull straight up on the cylinder head to remove it from the crankcase. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Remove the four bolts that secure the rocker cover to the top of the cylinder head. In some cases, the bolts require a 16-point socket. This is common in Harley-Davidson Evolution engines. Most other motors will require a standard hex-head socket. Pull the rocker cover off of the valve box.
2. Remove the four nuts that secure the valve box to the cylinder head with a socket and ratchet. Pull the valve box off of the cylinder head.
3. Remove the two bolts on the cylinder head that secure the intake manifold. This typically requires a hex-head socket, but in some cases, the heads on the bolts might require an Allen wrench.
4. Pull straight up on the cylinder head to remove it from the crankcase. Read More »»
Find an Oil Leak on the 1995 Camry
The oil in your 1995 Camry's engine serves two main purposes. The first is to ensure that all the engine's working and moving parts are lubricated to reduce friction and wear. The second is to keep certain parts of the engine cool and prevent overheating. If a leak is draining oil from the system, your Camry's engine could seize. It is important to locate the source of the oil leak and repair it.
Procedures:
1. Open the hood of your Toyota Camry. Locate the oil cap on the engine, and then open the cap. The oil cap is found on the valve cover.
2. Pour the ultraviolet dye into the oil crankcase of the Camry. Start the engine, and allow it to run for about 10 minutes. Take the Camry for a short drive around the block. This will help the dye circulate through the engine.
3. Use a jack to lift up the front end of the Camry. Use jack stands to support the front end of the frame. Use the jack to raise up the rear end. Use jack stands to support the rear frame. Leave the engine of the vehicle running while it is on the jack stands.
4. Put on your ultraviolet glasses; crawl beneath your Camry. Scan the underneath with an ultraviolet flashlight to try and locate the source of the leak. Look for any area that might be leaking a bright-yellow liquid. This will be the source of the leak, as the dye you poured into the oil crankshaft will show up under the UV flashlight. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Open the hood of your Toyota Camry. Locate the oil cap on the engine, and then open the cap. The oil cap is found on the valve cover.
2. Pour the ultraviolet dye into the oil crankcase of the Camry. Start the engine, and allow it to run for about 10 minutes. Take the Camry for a short drive around the block. This will help the dye circulate through the engine.
3. Use a jack to lift up the front end of the Camry. Use jack stands to support the front end of the frame. Use the jack to raise up the rear end. Use jack stands to support the rear frame. Leave the engine of the vehicle running while it is on the jack stands.
4. Put on your ultraviolet glasses; crawl beneath your Camry. Scan the underneath with an ultraviolet flashlight to try and locate the source of the leak. Look for any area that might be leaking a bright-yellow liquid. This will be the source of the leak, as the dye you poured into the oil crankshaft will show up under the UV flashlight. Read More »»
Take Off VW Bug Emblems
Volkswagon (VW) Beetles, or Bugs, are iconic cars that carry the VW emblem on both the front hood and hatchback. The emblem is silver and black in the U.S. or blue-on-white in Europe. Removing the emblem is necessary prior to repainting the VW bug. Aftermarket body refinishers or car art enthusiasts can also remove the emblem to replace with a design creation or emblem of their own. A few simple tools are all it takes to remove the emblem.
Procedures:
1. Wrap the flat head screwdriver with electrical tape to prevent damage to the paint. Slip the screw driver behind the front emblem and pry carefully from the hood. The emblem is glued to the hood.
2. Remove residue from the hood with adhesive remover. Add adhesive remover to the shop towels and rub gently until the adhesive residue removes.
3. Open the hatchback. Remove the screws from inside the handle. Remove the cover that the screws held in. Pull off the wiring harnesses and let them hang. Snip off tie wrap. Clip the long rod that connects the white bell crank to the hatch lock. Unscrew the three screws that hold in a strange black metal bracket. Remove the bracket.
4. Unscrew the three 6mm star bolts with the 6mm star tool. Pull out the base and carrier. Remove the e-clip connected to the emblem. Remove the emblem from the outside of the hatchback. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Wrap the flat head screwdriver with electrical tape to prevent damage to the paint. Slip the screw driver behind the front emblem and pry carefully from the hood. The emblem is glued to the hood.
2. Remove residue from the hood with adhesive remover. Add adhesive remover to the shop towels and rub gently until the adhesive residue removes.
3. Open the hatchback. Remove the screws from inside the handle. Remove the cover that the screws held in. Pull off the wiring harnesses and let them hang. Snip off tie wrap. Clip the long rod that connects the white bell crank to the hatch lock. Unscrew the three screws that hold in a strange black metal bracket. Remove the bracket.
4. Unscrew the three 6mm star bolts with the 6mm star tool. Pull out the base and carrier. Remove the e-clip connected to the emblem. Remove the emblem from the outside of the hatchback. Read More »»
Monday, December 27, 2010
Chevrolet Colorado Engine Problems
The Chevrolet Colorado is a mid-sized pickup truck first released in 2004. The Chevy Colorado features numerous engine options that range in size from 2.8-liters to 5.3-liters. Engine problems are common with specific models and may occur if Chevrolet suggested maintenance isn't followed.
2004-05 Engine Misfire
According to Consumer Guide Automotive, the 2004 and 2005 Chevy Colorado are known to misfire. An illuminated check-engine light will accompany the misfiring engine. The misfiring is caused by compromised exhaust valve springs. Replacing the exhaust valve springs will fix the problem.
2004-06 Fuel Gauge Issue
The 2004, 2005 and 2006 Colorado fuel gauge sensor and indicator are known to misread fuel levels. If the engine does not turn on and the fuel gauge reads full, the tank may actually be empty of gas. Models known for this problem include all California models and those with a 4-cylinder or 5-cylinder engine.
Suggested Maintenance
The 2009 Chevrolet Colorado owner manual suggests an exhaust system inspection every 25,000 miles. After reaching 100,000 miles, spark plug replacement is suggested. Inspection of the engine accessory drive belt is suggested at 150,000 miles. Read More »»
2004-05 Engine Misfire
According to Consumer Guide Automotive, the 2004 and 2005 Chevy Colorado are known to misfire. An illuminated check-engine light will accompany the misfiring engine. The misfiring is caused by compromised exhaust valve springs. Replacing the exhaust valve springs will fix the problem.
2004-06 Fuel Gauge Issue
The 2004, 2005 and 2006 Colorado fuel gauge sensor and indicator are known to misread fuel levels. If the engine does not turn on and the fuel gauge reads full, the tank may actually be empty of gas. Models known for this problem include all California models and those with a 4-cylinder or 5-cylinder engine.
Suggested Maintenance
The 2009 Chevrolet Colorado owner manual suggests an exhaust system inspection every 25,000 miles. After reaching 100,000 miles, spark plug replacement is suggested. Inspection of the engine accessory drive belt is suggested at 150,000 miles. Read More »»
Features of 1936 Chevy Master Coupe
Chevrolet produced more than 918,000 vehicles in 1936. The 1936 Chevrolet, which became a renowned collector's car, originally appeared in two body styles --- the Standard and Master DeLuxe. Each trim had its own small variations, such as the wheelbases. Though the majority of 1936 Chevy Master Coupe owners have upgraded the vehicles using contemporary parts and "mods," collectors continue to cherish its classic exterior.
Specifications
The 1936 Chevy came with a three-speed manual transmission, fairly standard for its time. The Master Deluxe represented an upgrade on the 1936 Standard Chevy, with its wheelbase of 109 inches on all its styles. The four-by-two, rear-wheel drive, front-motor vehicle had a 113-inch wheelbase.
Original Price
The Master DeLuxe cost $560 as a base price in its day. It came in coach, coupe, cabriolet, sedan, sport sedan and town sedan versions. The most expensive trim at the time was the four-door, five-passenger Sport Sedan, which weighed 3,080 lbs. and cost $665.
Standard Vs. Master DeLuxe
Chevrolet produced approximately 280,000 Master DeLuxe models --- more than it did of the Standard. Though Chevy built only 220,000, Standard models proved more popular at the time, and the two-door, five passenger Town Sedan sold best at $535. In 2010, an unaltered 1936 Master Deluxe sells for about $18,500.
Colors
The car comes in colors with names that evoke the high-end lifestyles of the period, many of which sound anachronistic as of 2010: Regent Maroon, Cranbrook Gray, Willow Green, Navy Blue, Cabana Cream, Kingswood Gray, Beaver Brown, Taupe Metallic, Hollywood Tan, Frosty Green and Regatta Red. Read More »»
Specifications
The 1936 Chevy came with a three-speed manual transmission, fairly standard for its time. The Master Deluxe represented an upgrade on the 1936 Standard Chevy, with its wheelbase of 109 inches on all its styles. The four-by-two, rear-wheel drive, front-motor vehicle had a 113-inch wheelbase.
Original Price
The Master DeLuxe cost $560 as a base price in its day. It came in coach, coupe, cabriolet, sedan, sport sedan and town sedan versions. The most expensive trim at the time was the four-door, five-passenger Sport Sedan, which weighed 3,080 lbs. and cost $665.
Standard Vs. Master DeLuxe
Chevrolet produced approximately 280,000 Master DeLuxe models --- more than it did of the Standard. Though Chevy built only 220,000, Standard models proved more popular at the time, and the two-door, five passenger Town Sedan sold best at $535. In 2010, an unaltered 1936 Master Deluxe sells for about $18,500.
Colors
The car comes in colors with names that evoke the high-end lifestyles of the period, many of which sound anachronistic as of 2010: Regent Maroon, Cranbrook Gray, Willow Green, Navy Blue, Cabana Cream, Kingswood Gray, Beaver Brown, Taupe Metallic, Hollywood Tan, Frosty Green and Regatta Red. Read More »»
Information on Chevy 2 Nova Six Cylinder Engines
The Chevy II Nova was a mid-sized economy car introduced by the Chevrolet Division of General Motors in 1962. By 1965 the Nova was developed into a V8 powered muscle car. Throughout its production the Chevy II Nova was available with a fuel-efficient six-cylinder engine.
194 Hi-Thrift
The 1962 Chevy II Nova used a Hi-Thrift in-line six-cylinder engine with wedge shaped combustion chambers. It displaced 194.37 cubic-inches and produced 120 horsepower with 177 ft-lbs of torque. The motor ran on regular gasoline and used a single-barrel Rochester carburetor. It was descended from the stovebolt 194, GM's first straight-six engine introduced in 1929.
230 Turbo-Thrift
By 1964 the Chevy II Nova was available with a 230 cubic-inch Turbo-Thrift straight-six engine. The overhead valve motor had a cast iron alloy block with hydraulic valve lifters. GM developed the engine from the earlier 235 six-cylinder by decreasing its stroke to 3.25 inches. The 230 generated 140 horsepower with 220 ft-lbs of torque.
250 Turbo-Thrift
By 1969, Chevy Novas could be bought with a Turbo-Thrift 250 cubic-inch straight six engine. The third-generation engine was naturally aspirated and used a Rochester downdraft one-barrel carburetor. It produced 145 horsepower with 230 ft-lbs of torque. The crankshaft rode on seven main-bearings. The engine had a distributor and coil ignition system. Read More »»
194 Hi-Thrift
The 1962 Chevy II Nova used a Hi-Thrift in-line six-cylinder engine with wedge shaped combustion chambers. It displaced 194.37 cubic-inches and produced 120 horsepower with 177 ft-lbs of torque. The motor ran on regular gasoline and used a single-barrel Rochester carburetor. It was descended from the stovebolt 194, GM's first straight-six engine introduced in 1929.
230 Turbo-Thrift
By 1964 the Chevy II Nova was available with a 230 cubic-inch Turbo-Thrift straight-six engine. The overhead valve motor had a cast iron alloy block with hydraulic valve lifters. GM developed the engine from the earlier 235 six-cylinder by decreasing its stroke to 3.25 inches. The 230 generated 140 horsepower with 220 ft-lbs of torque.
250 Turbo-Thrift
By 1969, Chevy Novas could be bought with a Turbo-Thrift 250 cubic-inch straight six engine. The third-generation engine was naturally aspirated and used a Rochester downdraft one-barrel carburetor. It produced 145 horsepower with 230 ft-lbs of torque. The crankshaft rode on seven main-bearings. The engine had a distributor and coil ignition system. Read More »»
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