Power brakes represent one of the greatest advances in automotive braking technology. Not only do power brakes make it easier for the driver to stop the vehicle, but without the assistance of the power booster it would be practically impossible for disc brakes to be effectively used on automobiles. Any deficiencies in the performance of a power booster can seriously impair braking effectiveness, and it is important to be sure the booster is operating properly at all times. Testing the booster is a simple job that every driver can do.
Procedures:
1. Turn the vehicle engine off and pump the brake pedal a few times to deplete any remaining vacuum in the power booster. Push and hold the brake pedal down with light but steady pressure. Start the engine. The brake pedal should drop slightly, indicating that the booster is working properly.
2. Allow the engine to run at idle for a minute or two. Turn the engine off and slowly pump the brake pedal five or six times. The brake pedal should stop at a higher position with each pump, indicating that the booster is not leaking and the check valve is working properly.
3. Start the engine and allow it to run at idle for a minute or two. Push and hold the brake pedal down with light but steady pressure, and turn the engine off. Continue holding the pedal down for 30 seconds or so. If the pedal does not rise it indicates that the booster is not leaking and the check valve is working properly.
4. Test the vacuum booster check valve. Locate the vacuum booster. It is a dome shaped assembly mounted at the rear of the engine compartment on the driver's side. Now locate the flexible vacuum hose that runs from the engine intake manifold to the vacuum booster. Remove any retaining clips that hold the hose to the intake manifold connection, and slip the hose off the connection. Try to blow into the hose. If the check valve is working properly the air will not flow into the booster. Now try to suck air out of the hose. If the check valve is working properly air will flow out of the booster.
5. Connect an engine vacuum test gauge to the connection on the engine intake manifold. Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two. Check the test gauge vacuum reading. The vacuum should be at least 18 inches.
Read More »»
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Test an 88 GMC Brake Booster
The brake power booster uses vacuum generated in the engine intake manifold to amplify the force the driver exerts on the brake pedal, making the driver's job easier when slowing or stopping the vehicle. This is especially important on large vehicles like those made by GMC. Problems with the power booster can create a dangerous situation because the driver may unexpectedly need much greater effort when braking. If the braking seems to be more difficult than normal it is time to test your brake booster. Testing the booster is an easy task that every driver can do to assure herself that it is functioning properly
Procedures:
1. Park your 88 GMC and turn the engine off. Pump the brake pedal slowly five or six times to relieve any residual vacuum in the booster. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. The brake pedal should feel harder and higher than normal. Start the engine. The brake pedal should immediately drop 1/4-inch or so and it should suddenly feel normal. If your booster is not functioning properly the pedal will stay in a high position and will feel hard.
2. Let the engine idle for a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and slowly pump the brake pedal, waiting a couple of seconds between each pump. The pedal should go down to a normal position on the first pump, and then stop a little bit higher with each following pump.
3. Start the engine again and let it idle for a couple of minutes. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. Turn the engine off and continue to hold the brake pedal down for about a minute or so. The pedal should not rise during this time. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park your 88 GMC and turn the engine off. Pump the brake pedal slowly five or six times to relieve any residual vacuum in the booster. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. The brake pedal should feel harder and higher than normal. Start the engine. The brake pedal should immediately drop 1/4-inch or so and it should suddenly feel normal. If your booster is not functioning properly the pedal will stay in a high position and will feel hard.
2. Let the engine idle for a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and slowly pump the brake pedal, waiting a couple of seconds between each pump. The pedal should go down to a normal position on the first pump, and then stop a little bit higher with each following pump.
3. Start the engine again and let it idle for a couple of minutes. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. Turn the engine off and continue to hold the brake pedal down for about a minute or so. The pedal should not rise during this time. Read More »»
Remove Extremely Tight Bolts
Bolts that have been in place for a long time often become so rusted they cannot easily be loosened with a wrench or socket. Exposure to moisture makes them even rustier. Trying to force a bolt will likely just damage the head of the bolt, making it even harder to remove. Trying to force off a rusted bolt can also injure a worker's hands, especially if the socket or wrench slips. There are, however, effective and safe ways of loosening tight and rusted bolts.
Procedures:
1. Spray a commercial rust-removing solution or lubricant on and around the bolt, trying to cover as much of the bolt as possible. Wait a few minutes. Loosen the bolt, if possible, with a wrench.
2. Use a propane torch to heat the top of the bolt if it remains stuck. Before applay a flame, though, wipe up or dry off with a rag any remaining rust-removing solution or penetrating oil around the bolt. Flames and petroleum-based solvents aren't a good combination. Heating the top will cause the entire bolt to expand. It should take about a minute.
3. Place a wrench back on top of the bolt and turn counterclockwise. If the bolt becomes too rounded for the wrench to fit properly, tighten a pair of lock pliers onto the head of the bolt. Once it is locked into place, push or pull the pliers counterclockwise to loosen the bolt, using as much force as necessary. If the bolt still will not turn, tap the pliers with a hammer counterclockwise until it loosens.
4. Put a socket onto the head of the bolt if it still will not loosen and then place a short piece of pipe over the socket handle. This piece of pipe is often called either a buster bar or a cheater bar. Grab hold of the buster bar and push or pull counterclockwise until the bolt loosens. Do not use too much force or the socket might break.
5. Cut off the top of the bolt with a hacksaw if it still will not loosen. A cold chisel or reciprocating saw may be used instead. Another way to break the bolt is to use a nut splitter. It will break the nut without damaging the threads of the bolt.
6. Remove the rest of the bolt with a screw extractor. Take the drill bit that came with the screw extractor and place it in a drill. Then drill a hole through the center of the bolt. Place the screw extractor in the recently drilled hole and turn counterclockwise until the bolt is removed. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Spray a commercial rust-removing solution or lubricant on and around the bolt, trying to cover as much of the bolt as possible. Wait a few minutes. Loosen the bolt, if possible, with a wrench.
2. Use a propane torch to heat the top of the bolt if it remains stuck. Before applay a flame, though, wipe up or dry off with a rag any remaining rust-removing solution or penetrating oil around the bolt. Flames and petroleum-based solvents aren't a good combination. Heating the top will cause the entire bolt to expand. It should take about a minute.
3. Place a wrench back on top of the bolt and turn counterclockwise. If the bolt becomes too rounded for the wrench to fit properly, tighten a pair of lock pliers onto the head of the bolt. Once it is locked into place, push or pull the pliers counterclockwise to loosen the bolt, using as much force as necessary. If the bolt still will not turn, tap the pliers with a hammer counterclockwise until it loosens.
4. Put a socket onto the head of the bolt if it still will not loosen and then place a short piece of pipe over the socket handle. This piece of pipe is often called either a buster bar or a cheater bar. Grab hold of the buster bar and push or pull counterclockwise until the bolt loosens. Do not use too much force or the socket might break.
5. Cut off the top of the bolt with a hacksaw if it still will not loosen. A cold chisel or reciprocating saw may be used instead. Another way to break the bolt is to use a nut splitter. It will break the nut without damaging the threads of the bolt.
6. Remove the rest of the bolt with a screw extractor. Take the drill bit that came with the screw extractor and place it in a drill. Then drill a hole through the center of the bolt. Place the screw extractor in the recently drilled hole and turn counterclockwise until the bolt is removed. Read More »»
Replace 330I Rear Pads
The BMW 330I is a luxury car, but the parts wear just like any other automobile. The brake pads and rotors stop the car with friction. Friction wears out the brake pads and you need to replace them. Replacing the pads, however, only takes about 30 minutes per wheel. When you are replacing the brake pads, you should inspect the brake rotors. If you put new pads on rotors that have grooves or other damage, it will not be long before you have to replace the pads again.
Procedures:
1. Park the BMW on a level surface and turn the key off. Open the engine compartment and locate the master brake cylinder. You will find it on the back firewall of the engine compartment, on the driver's side of the car. Siphon about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan. You will need to recycle it later. It is not a good idea to reuse brake fluid in the master cylinder.
2. Place the wheel chocks in front of the front tires. Raise the back end of the BMW with the automobile jack on the side you will be working on. Place a jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench and pull the wheel from the car.
3. Remove the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the brake caliper off the rotor and remove the brake pads. Insert the piston tool in the caliper and twist the handle to seat the piston back into the caliper housing. Clean the caliper thoroughly with the wire brush.
4. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper and push it onto the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Place the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stand from under the BMW. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
5. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and add to it as necessary. Pump the brake pedal until it feel firm. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park the BMW on a level surface and turn the key off. Open the engine compartment and locate the master brake cylinder. You will find it on the back firewall of the engine compartment, on the driver's side of the car. Siphon about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan. You will need to recycle it later. It is not a good idea to reuse brake fluid in the master cylinder.
2. Place the wheel chocks in front of the front tires. Raise the back end of the BMW with the automobile jack on the side you will be working on. Place a jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench and pull the wheel from the car.
3. Remove the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the brake caliper off the rotor and remove the brake pads. Insert the piston tool in the caliper and twist the handle to seat the piston back into the caliper housing. Clean the caliper thoroughly with the wire brush.
4. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper and push it onto the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Place the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stand from under the BMW. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
5. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and add to it as necessary. Pump the brake pedal until it feel firm. Read More »»
Install a Summit Differential Cover
Differential covers keep the gears and oil inside a vehicle's rear end. Older vehicles use a differential cover with no drain or vent plugs. This makes it necessary to remove the differential cover each time you perform a rear end oil change. Summit Racing differential covers are made from lightweight aluminum and have the plugs required to change oil without removing the cover. This saves time and money when you need to change the oil in your rear differential.
Procedures:
1. Apply the vehicle's parking brake. Set a wheel chock under each of the vehicle's rear wheels.
2. Set a drain pan under the differential housing. Remove the bolts from the differential housing cover with a socket matching the bolt heads attached to a 3/8-inch ratchet handle. Allow the oil to drain from the housing for five to 10 minutes.
3. Scrape the old gasket from the cover mounting flange of the differential house with a metal putty knife. Spray aerosol brake cleaner on the flange. Wipe the flange with a clean rag to remove remaining debris and oil.
4. Apply RTV sealant to the flanges of the Summit differential cover and the differential mounting flange. Press a differential gasket into the sealant, which is on the differential cover flange. Push the cover onto the differential flange.
5. Thread the differential cover bolts through the Summit differential cover and into the differential housing. Tighten the bolts with the socket and 3/8-inch ratchet handle.
6. Remove the top fill plug from the Summit differential cover with a 3/8-inch ratchet handle.
7. Cut the ends off the nozzle of a differential oil tube. Pour the oil into the differential. Repeat the process until the oil level reaches the bottom of the fill hole. Install the fill plug into the Summit differential cover. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Apply the vehicle's parking brake. Set a wheel chock under each of the vehicle's rear wheels.
2. Set a drain pan under the differential housing. Remove the bolts from the differential housing cover with a socket matching the bolt heads attached to a 3/8-inch ratchet handle. Allow the oil to drain from the housing for five to 10 minutes.
3. Scrape the old gasket from the cover mounting flange of the differential house with a metal putty knife. Spray aerosol brake cleaner on the flange. Wipe the flange with a clean rag to remove remaining debris and oil.
4. Apply RTV sealant to the flanges of the Summit differential cover and the differential mounting flange. Press a differential gasket into the sealant, which is on the differential cover flange. Push the cover onto the differential flange.
5. Thread the differential cover bolts through the Summit differential cover and into the differential housing. Tighten the bolts with the socket and 3/8-inch ratchet handle.
6. Remove the top fill plug from the Summit differential cover with a 3/8-inch ratchet handle.
7. Cut the ends off the nozzle of a differential oil tube. Pour the oil into the differential. Repeat the process until the oil level reaches the bottom of the fill hole. Install the fill plug into the Summit differential cover. Read More »»
Saturday, November 27, 2010
Replace the Disc Pads on a Honda Odyssey
The brake pads on the Honda Odyssey work with the rotors and stop your car using friction. The friction wears out the brake pads, which should be replaced periodically. It not a hard project to complete, and you can finish each wheel in about 30 minutes. When you change your brake pads, inspect the rotors. The same friction wears the rotors down, though not as quickly as it does with the brake pads. If you find any grooves on the surface of the rotors, you should deal with those as well
Procedures:
1. Park the Honda on a level surface and turn off the ignition. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Open the engine compartment and siphon 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Put the fluid in the drain pan to recycle later. Raise the Odyssey up with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the van near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench and take the wheel off the van.
2. Remove the brake hose bolt from the bracket using a socket and ratchet. Loosen the lower caliper bolt with the socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper up and remove the brake pads. Clean the caliper surface with the wire brush. Push the piston into the caliper housing with a brake piston tool.
3. Install the new brake pads and push the caliper down onto the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Install the brake hose bolt into the bracket and tighten it with the socket and ratchet. Put the wheel back on the Odyssey and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the van and lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
4. Check the brake fluid and add to the master cylinder as needed. Pump the brake pedal until it is firm to seat the brake pads on the rotors. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park the Honda on a level surface and turn off the ignition. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Open the engine compartment and siphon 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Put the fluid in the drain pan to recycle later. Raise the Odyssey up with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the van near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench and take the wheel off the van.
2. Remove the brake hose bolt from the bracket using a socket and ratchet. Loosen the lower caliper bolt with the socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper up and remove the brake pads. Clean the caliper surface with the wire brush. Push the piston into the caliper housing with a brake piston tool.
3. Install the new brake pads and push the caliper down onto the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Install the brake hose bolt into the bracket and tighten it with the socket and ratchet. Put the wheel back on the Odyssey and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the van and lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
4. Check the brake fluid and add to the master cylinder as needed. Pump the brake pedal until it is firm to seat the brake pads on the rotors. Read More »»
Change Brake Pads Step-by-Step
The brake pads are attached to a caliper that apply pressure to the rotor to stop the vehicle. The pads wear out over time and this can cause the metal backing on the pad to scrub the rotor. The pads will not take very much time to replace once the wheels are removed.
Procedures:
1. Ensure the vehicle is parked on a flat and level surface. Set the parking brake to ensure the vehicle does not roll back.
2. Loosen the lugnuts on both front wheels with a tire tool but do not remove them. This will make removing the wheels easier when the vehicle is raised up.
3. Place a jack underneath the front crossmember of the vehicle. Raise the car high enough to place jack stands under the crossmember. Lower the vehicle on to the crossmembers.
4. Remove the lug nuts on the driver side with a tire tool. Take the wheel off the axle and place it to the side.
5. Locate the two bolts at the back of the caliper. The caliper is mounted directly over the rotor. Unscrew the two bolts with a socket wrench. Pull the caliper off by sliding it up and off the rotor.
6. Unclip the brake pads from the caliper. They will come out with a little force. Install one of the brake pads backwards in to the back of the caliper. Place a C-clamp over the old pad and the back of the caliper. Turn the handle on top of the clamp to tighten. The force will push the brake pad in to the piston. The piston will fully retract back in to the caliper. This will make installation easier on the new pads.
7. Place the new pads on to the caliper. They will clip in place once they are pushed in to place.
8. Position the caliper over the rotor. Start both bolts by hand before tightening them. Once both bolts are installed, tighten with a socket wrench.
9. Repeat to replace brake pads on the other wheel. Tighten the wheels on to the hub with a tire tool. Tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern.
10. Raise the vehicle to remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
11. Start the vehicle and allow it to idle. Pump the brake pedal to reset the calipers. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Ensure the vehicle is parked on a flat and level surface. Set the parking brake to ensure the vehicle does not roll back.
2. Loosen the lugnuts on both front wheels with a tire tool but do not remove them. This will make removing the wheels easier when the vehicle is raised up.
3. Place a jack underneath the front crossmember of the vehicle. Raise the car high enough to place jack stands under the crossmember. Lower the vehicle on to the crossmembers.
4. Remove the lug nuts on the driver side with a tire tool. Take the wheel off the axle and place it to the side.
5. Locate the two bolts at the back of the caliper. The caliper is mounted directly over the rotor. Unscrew the two bolts with a socket wrench. Pull the caliper off by sliding it up and off the rotor.
6. Unclip the brake pads from the caliper. They will come out with a little force. Install one of the brake pads backwards in to the back of the caliper. Place a C-clamp over the old pad and the back of the caliper. Turn the handle on top of the clamp to tighten. The force will push the brake pad in to the piston. The piston will fully retract back in to the caliper. This will make installation easier on the new pads.
7. Place the new pads on to the caliper. They will clip in place once they are pushed in to place.
8. Position the caliper over the rotor. Start both bolts by hand before tightening them. Once both bolts are installed, tighten with a socket wrench.
9. Repeat to replace brake pads on the other wheel. Tighten the wheels on to the hub with a tire tool. Tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern.
10. Raise the vehicle to remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
11. Start the vehicle and allow it to idle. Pump the brake pedal to reset the calipers. Read More »»
Thursday, November 25, 2010
How to Replace Wheel Mount Stud
Wheel mounting studs, with their attached lug nuts, are what hold the wheel to the axle. While wheel mount studs will generally last for the life of the vehicle, they can become damaged. A damaged stud should be replaced as soon as possible, as even one damaged stud can put excess strain on the others. Though the stud itself is not expensive, the cost of replacing one can be significant because of labor charges. So doing the work yourself will save will save you some of the expense
Procedure:
1.Engage the parking and block at least one of the three other wheels you will not be working on, both front and back. Place a jack under the vehicle and lift the wheel off the ground.
2. Place a jack stand under the axle or frame and lower the vehicle until it is resting firmly on the jack stand. Remove the tire using a lug wrench.
3. Inspect the wheel to determine if it is a drum or disc brake system. A drum will look like a inverted bowl with the studs sticking through the bottom, whereas a disc will resemble a plate with a hub in the middle. If it is a drum, it will have to be removed. Wiggle it back and forth while pulling it toward you. If it sticks, hit it with a rubber mallet, working your way along the entire surface, striking in opposing spots along the outside edge -- top, bottom, left, right. Repeat until the drum is free.
4. Look behind the wheel's axle while spinning the stud plate or rotor to determine the best position that will give adequate clearance for removal of the stud. This is to make sure the stud will not be blocked on the back side when you drive it out. Tap the stud lightly with a heavy hammer. If the stud does not move freely, spray it with a penetrating lubricant and allow it to work for a few minutes.
5. Mark the threaded end of the new stud with the correction fluid and then spray it with lubricant. Insert the stud into the hole from behind. Rotate the stud while pushing it in with you fingers until the stud lines up and slips into the hole.
6. Place spacers or washers over the stud and twist the lug nut on with your fingers as far as possible. Finish tightening it into place with a socket wrench. Remove the lug nut and spacers and replace the tire (replacing the drum first if it was removed).
7. Drive the vehicle at a safe speed, approximately 15 to 20 m.p.h., for about a mile and check the lug nut on the new stud to be sure it is still tight. Re-tighten if necessary. Read More »»
Procedure:
1.Engage the parking and block at least one of the three other wheels you will not be working on, both front and back. Place a jack under the vehicle and lift the wheel off the ground.
2. Place a jack stand under the axle or frame and lower the vehicle until it is resting firmly on the jack stand. Remove the tire using a lug wrench.
3. Inspect the wheel to determine if it is a drum or disc brake system. A drum will look like a inverted bowl with the studs sticking through the bottom, whereas a disc will resemble a plate with a hub in the middle. If it is a drum, it will have to be removed. Wiggle it back and forth while pulling it toward you. If it sticks, hit it with a rubber mallet, working your way along the entire surface, striking in opposing spots along the outside edge -- top, bottom, left, right. Repeat until the drum is free.
4. Look behind the wheel's axle while spinning the stud plate or rotor to determine the best position that will give adequate clearance for removal of the stud. This is to make sure the stud will not be blocked on the back side when you drive it out. Tap the stud lightly with a heavy hammer. If the stud does not move freely, spray it with a penetrating lubricant and allow it to work for a few minutes.
5. Mark the threaded end of the new stud with the correction fluid and then spray it with lubricant. Insert the stud into the hole from behind. Rotate the stud while pushing it in with you fingers until the stud lines up and slips into the hole.
6. Place spacers or washers over the stud and twist the lug nut on with your fingers as far as possible. Finish tightening it into place with a socket wrench. Remove the lug nut and spacers and replace the tire (replacing the drum first if it was removed).
7. Drive the vehicle at a safe speed, approximately 15 to 20 m.p.h., for about a mile and check the lug nut on the new stud to be sure it is still tight. Re-tighten if necessary. Read More »»
Vented Vs. Non-Vented Brake Rotors
Your vehicle's braking system involves a fairly complex arrangement of parts. One of the most important of those parts is the brake rotor. This can be either vented or non-vented.
Brake Rotor
The rotor is the main stopping mechanism of the disc brake, which is the type of brake used in most modern cars. When the brake pedal is pushed down, the brake pads press against the rotors to stop the vehicle. The amount of stopping force applied to the rotors is proportional to the amount of pressure applied to the brake pedal.
Vented Brake Rotors
Vented brake rotors have holes and grooves drilled through them all around the perimeter of the brake. This allows for faster dissipation of heat that builds up when the brake pads act on the rotor. Vented brake rotors are most often used in large or high-speed vehicles. They are also often made out of ceramic or other strong synthetic materials.
Non-Vented Brake Rotors
Non-vented brake rotors are most commonly made of solid iron. They are better suited for smaller, slower commuter vehicles (small cars, light trucks, small vans). Non-vented brake rotors also tend to last longer than vented ones. Read More »»
Brake Rotor
The rotor is the main stopping mechanism of the disc brake, which is the type of brake used in most modern cars. When the brake pedal is pushed down, the brake pads press against the rotors to stop the vehicle. The amount of stopping force applied to the rotors is proportional to the amount of pressure applied to the brake pedal.
Vented Brake Rotors
Vented brake rotors have holes and grooves drilled through them all around the perimeter of the brake. This allows for faster dissipation of heat that builds up when the brake pads act on the rotor. Vented brake rotors are most often used in large or high-speed vehicles. They are also often made out of ceramic or other strong synthetic materials.
Non-Vented Brake Rotors
Non-vented brake rotors are most commonly made of solid iron. They are better suited for smaller, slower commuter vehicles (small cars, light trucks, small vans). Non-vented brake rotors also tend to last longer than vented ones. Read More »»
Change Front Brakes on a Vulcan 500
Brake pads are an often over-looked, yet important, part of your Kawasaki Vulcan 500, allowing you to slow or stop as quickly and safely as possible at all times. Keeping a watchful eye on the brake pads as the miles grow can prevent the pad's friction-generating material from wearing away to nothing, a situation that can damage the front brake disc as the pad's metal back plate gouges into its surface. Replacing your Vulcan's front brake pads is a basic task that does not require special training, meaning that you can do it yourself within a short period of time.
Procedures:
1. Unscrew the brake caliper bolts from the left fork leg, using a 14 mm socket. Pull the caliper away from the fork leg and off of the front brake disc.
2. Insert a flat screwdriver between the brake pads and press them back against the sides of the caliper. This will force the caliper's pistons into a full-open position.
3. Remove the pair of pull pins from the brake pad pins within the caliper's mouth, using a pair of needle-nose pliers, then pull the brake pad pins out of the caliper.
4. Pull the brake brake pads and their spring clips out of the caliper. Remove the brake pads from the spring clip before discarding them.
5. Remove any dirt and dust building within the caliper's mouth, using brake cleaner.
6. Place the new brake pads around the spring clips and slide them into the caliper. Reinsert the brake pad pins into the caliper and the brake pads. Insert the pull pins into the ends of the brake pad pins.
7. Slide the brake caliper over the front brake disc and against the left fork leg. Screw the caliper bolts into place, using the 14 mm socket.
8. Pump the front brake lever until the brake pads close completely against the front brake disc, indicated by a stiff feel at the lever. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Unscrew the brake caliper bolts from the left fork leg, using a 14 mm socket. Pull the caliper away from the fork leg and off of the front brake disc.
2. Insert a flat screwdriver between the brake pads and press them back against the sides of the caliper. This will force the caliper's pistons into a full-open position.
3. Remove the pair of pull pins from the brake pad pins within the caliper's mouth, using a pair of needle-nose pliers, then pull the brake pad pins out of the caliper.
4. Pull the brake brake pads and their spring clips out of the caliper. Remove the brake pads from the spring clip before discarding them.
5. Remove any dirt and dust building within the caliper's mouth, using brake cleaner.
6. Place the new brake pads around the spring clips and slide them into the caliper. Reinsert the brake pad pins into the caliper and the brake pads. Insert the pull pins into the ends of the brake pad pins.
7. Slide the brake caliper over the front brake disc and against the left fork leg. Screw the caliper bolts into place, using the 14 mm socket.
8. Pump the front brake lever until the brake pads close completely against the front brake disc, indicated by a stiff feel at the lever. Read More »»
Check the Brake Master Cylinder
The brake master cylinder plays a crucial role in a vehicle's stopping ability. The master cylinder is where brake fluid is stored, and brake fluid helps activate the brakes When the master cylinder begins to fail it will cause the brake pedal to feel squishy. This could lead to a failure in the brake system. Check the brake master cylinder at least once every three months for damage, wear and brake fluid level.
Procedure:
1. Clean the outside of the master cylinder with a lint-free rag. You can find the location of the master cylinder in the vehicle's owner's manual, but it is typically located in the engine compartment near the driver's side. If there is a residue of grease on the master cylinder, put some degreaser on the rag and wipe the master cylinder clean with it. Do not put the degreaser on the master cylinder directly to avoid contaminating the brake fluid.
2. Inspect the exterior of the master cylinder for leaks, cracks or holes. Pay close attention to where the hoses attach and inspect the ends of the brake lines for cracking and wear.
3. Pull the cap off of the master cylinder and clean it thoroughly with a rag. Check the level of the brake fluid. Most master cylinders will have an indicator on the side of the cylinder that marks where the fluid should reach. If there is no indicator, the fluid should be about 1/2-inch from the top of the cylinder.
4. Replace the missing brake fluid. Consult the owner's manual for instructions on what kind of brake fluid is required for the vehicle. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Clean the outside of the master cylinder with a lint-free rag. You can find the location of the master cylinder in the vehicle's owner's manual, but it is typically located in the engine compartment near the driver's side. If there is a residue of grease on the master cylinder, put some degreaser on the rag and wipe the master cylinder clean with it. Do not put the degreaser on the master cylinder directly to avoid contaminating the brake fluid.
2. Inspect the exterior of the master cylinder for leaks, cracks or holes. Pay close attention to where the hoses attach and inspect the ends of the brake lines for cracking and wear.
3. Pull the cap off of the master cylinder and clean it thoroughly with a rag. Check the level of the brake fluid. Most master cylinders will have an indicator on the side of the cylinder that marks where the fluid should reach. If there is no indicator, the fluid should be about 1/2-inch from the top of the cylinder.
4. Replace the missing brake fluid. Consult the owner's manual for instructions on what kind of brake fluid is required for the vehicle. Read More »»
Replace the Rear Brake Pads on an Xterra
Replacing the brake pads on your Nissan Xterra is not hard to do. You can expect it to take you about 30 minutes to change the pads on each wheel. Friction is how the brake pads and rotors stop your Xterra. This same friction also wears out the brake pads. How often they need to be changed depends on how much you use the brakes. If you do a lot of driving on the highway, your brakes will last longer than if you do a lot of city driving. When you change the brake pads, inspect the brake rotors to see if you have to change them as well.
Procedures:
1. Park the Xterra on a level, paved surface and turn off the engine. Siphon about ½ of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Raise the back end of the Xterra with an automobile jack on the side you are starting with. Place a jack stand under the SUV and raise it to the frame. Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench and pull the wheel off the SUV.
2. Loosen the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper down and away from the brake rotor. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Insert the piston tool into the caliper. Turn the handle on the tool until it pushes the caliper piston into the housing.
3. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper. Push the caliper up and onto the brake rotor. Tighten the caliper bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the Xterra and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stand from under the SUV and lower the vehicle to the ground with the jack. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder to bring it to the proper level. Pump the brakes until the pedal is firm to seat the brake pads on the rotors. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park the Xterra on a level, paved surface and turn off the engine. Siphon about ½ of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Raise the back end of the Xterra with an automobile jack on the side you are starting with. Place a jack stand under the SUV and raise it to the frame. Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench and pull the wheel off the SUV.
2. Loosen the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper down and away from the brake rotor. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Insert the piston tool into the caliper. Turn the handle on the tool until it pushes the caliper piston into the housing.
3. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper. Push the caliper up and onto the brake rotor. Tighten the caliper bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the Xterra and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stand from under the SUV and lower the vehicle to the ground with the jack. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder to bring it to the proper level. Pump the brakes until the pedal is firm to seat the brake pads on the rotors. Read More »»
Replace a Rear Axle Seal on a Toyota Tacoma
The function of the rear axle shaft seal is to hold the axle assembly firmly to the axle housing. If the seal is damaged, you may see oil leaking from the connection point at the axle and axle housing. If oil is leaking, the axle will soon lose its lubrication and suffer serious damage. If you ignore the problem and the axle is damaged, the job becomes much more difficult and costly. You will have to remove the rear brake assembly to access the axle and seal.
Disassembly
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel of the drive shaft seal you need to replace. Raise the rear of the truck with a jack and support the truck on jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench and take off the wheel.
3. Pull off the brake drum. If it is stuck on, tap the drum along its edges with a mallet and spray penetrating oil around the wheel studs. Spray the entire brake assembly with brake cleaner to remove any harmful brake dust.
4. Release the return spring from the top side of the shoe opposite the parking brake cable. This is the rear shoe. Use a screwdriver to pry the spring out of the hole. Use a hold-down spring tool to remove the hold-down spring from the rear shoe. Place the tool over the spring, rotate it 1/4-turn counterclockwise and release the tool to remove the spring. Remove the rear shoe by disengaging the lower anchor spring from the shoe.
5. Use the hold-down spring tool to remove the hold-down spring from the front shoe. Use a pair of pliers or a small screwdriver to detach and remove the adjusting lever spring attached to the shoe. Remove the adjusting lever. Pull the parking brake lever out of its bracket near the adjuster lever to release it from the wheel assembly. Remove the brake shoe.
6. Unscrew the brake line from the top inner portion of the wheel assembly with a wrench.
7. Use a socket to remove the four backing plate mounting bolt nuts. These are arranged in a square pattern around the axle, behind the backing plate.
8. Pull the axle shaft out of the axle housing. Remove the O-ring from the axle housing and discard it.
9. Use a seal removal tool or large flat head screwdriver to pry out the axle shaft oil seal from the axle housing.
Reassembly
1. Use the seal installer or large socket to drive the new seal into the axle housing. Tap it into place with the mallet until it is seated flush with the axle housing. Lubricate the outer edge of the seal with multi-purpose grease. Place the new O-ring onto the seal and coat it lightly with grease.
2. Coat the axle with oil and re-insert it into the axle housing. Replace the four backing plate retainer nuts.
3. Install the brake line hose and tighten it with the wrench.
4. Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Replace the front brake shoe. Replace the emergency brake into its retainer.
5. Connect the anchor spring to the bottom of the two shoes. Rotate the rear shoe into place. Attach both hold-down pins and springs into place with the hold-down spring tool.
6. Connect the adjuster and the return spring at the top of the brake shoes.
7. Replace the brake drum over the brake assembly. Remount the wheel and reinstall the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
8. Drive the vehicle forward and backwards, frequently pressing the brake pedal. This will allow the rear brake self-adjusters to adjust the brakes. Read More »»
Disassembly
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel of the drive shaft seal you need to replace. Raise the rear of the truck with a jack and support the truck on jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench and take off the wheel.
3. Pull off the brake drum. If it is stuck on, tap the drum along its edges with a mallet and spray penetrating oil around the wheel studs. Spray the entire brake assembly with brake cleaner to remove any harmful brake dust.
4. Release the return spring from the top side of the shoe opposite the parking brake cable. This is the rear shoe. Use a screwdriver to pry the spring out of the hole. Use a hold-down spring tool to remove the hold-down spring from the rear shoe. Place the tool over the spring, rotate it 1/4-turn counterclockwise and release the tool to remove the spring. Remove the rear shoe by disengaging the lower anchor spring from the shoe.
5. Use the hold-down spring tool to remove the hold-down spring from the front shoe. Use a pair of pliers or a small screwdriver to detach and remove the adjusting lever spring attached to the shoe. Remove the adjusting lever. Pull the parking brake lever out of its bracket near the adjuster lever to release it from the wheel assembly. Remove the brake shoe.
6. Unscrew the brake line from the top inner portion of the wheel assembly with a wrench.
7. Use a socket to remove the four backing plate mounting bolt nuts. These are arranged in a square pattern around the axle, behind the backing plate.
8. Pull the axle shaft out of the axle housing. Remove the O-ring from the axle housing and discard it.
9. Use a seal removal tool or large flat head screwdriver to pry out the axle shaft oil seal from the axle housing.
Reassembly
1. Use the seal installer or large socket to drive the new seal into the axle housing. Tap it into place with the mallet until it is seated flush with the axle housing. Lubricate the outer edge of the seal with multi-purpose grease. Place the new O-ring onto the seal and coat it lightly with grease.
2. Coat the axle with oil and re-insert it into the axle housing. Replace the four backing plate retainer nuts.
3. Install the brake line hose and tighten it with the wrench.
4. Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Replace the front brake shoe. Replace the emergency brake into its retainer.
5. Connect the anchor spring to the bottom of the two shoes. Rotate the rear shoe into place. Attach both hold-down pins and springs into place with the hold-down spring tool.
6. Connect the adjuster and the return spring at the top of the brake shoes.
7. Replace the brake drum over the brake assembly. Remount the wheel and reinstall the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
8. Drive the vehicle forward and backwards, frequently pressing the brake pedal. This will allow the rear brake self-adjusters to adjust the brakes. Read More »»
Monday, November 22, 2010
Install the Rear Pads in a 1987 Toyota GT-S
The 1987 Toyota GT-S was ahead of its time. It wasn't until the 1990s that rear disc brakes become popular on import automobiles while disc brakes were relegated to the front of the braking system. This makes changing the rear brake pads relatively easy compared to pulling apart brake drums. You can replace the pads with basic tools, and it should only take about 10 minutes per side to do.
Procedures:
1.Pop the hood and remove the cap from the master cylinder located on the driver's side firewall.
2. Place a jack under the frame directly in front of the driver's side rear wheel. Loosen the lug nuts with a tire iron then raise the Toyota with a jack until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the GT-S onto the jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off the hub.
3. Remove the two bolts that secure the brake caliper to the axle housing with a socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper off the rotor.
4. Position a pair of pliers onto the rear brake pad and squeeze the piston into the caliper.
5. Pull the brake pads out of the caliper and place the new pads inside the caliper.
6. Hold the pads in place and slide the caliper back onto the rotor.
7. Secure the caliper with the two bolts, using the socket and ratchet.
8. Remount the wheel onto the wheel studs and tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron.
9. Raise the Toyota with the jack, remove the jack stand and lower the vehicle to the ground. Double-check the lug nuts for tightness then repeat the process with the other rear brake.
10. Close the lid on the master cylinder.
Read More »»
Procedures:
1.Pop the hood and remove the cap from the master cylinder located on the driver's side firewall.
2. Place a jack under the frame directly in front of the driver's side rear wheel. Loosen the lug nuts with a tire iron then raise the Toyota with a jack until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the GT-S onto the jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off the hub.
3. Remove the two bolts that secure the brake caliper to the axle housing with a socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper off the rotor.
4. Position a pair of pliers onto the rear brake pad and squeeze the piston into the caliper.
5. Pull the brake pads out of the caliper and place the new pads inside the caliper.
6. Hold the pads in place and slide the caliper back onto the rotor.
7. Secure the caliper with the two bolts, using the socket and ratchet.
8. Remount the wheel onto the wheel studs and tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron.
9. Raise the Toyota with the jack, remove the jack stand and lower the vehicle to the ground. Double-check the lug nuts for tightness then repeat the process with the other rear brake.
10. Close the lid on the master cylinder.
Read More »»
Change the Brakes on a Caravan
Dodge Caravan uses two different braking systems to help you stop your minivan. The front brakes are disc brakes that include a brake rotor, a caliper and two brake pads. The back brakes are drum brakes that consist of two brake shoes and a large metal drum that fits over the shoes. The process for replacing the different brake systems differ greatly
Getting Started
1. Open the hood and remove the cap from the master cylinder.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on all four tires using the tire iron supplied with the caravan.
3. Place a jack under the frame directly behind the front driver's tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the frame. Repeat this process with the passenger side front.
4. Place a jack under the frame directly in front of the driver's side rear tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the jack stand. Repeat this process with the passenger side rear.
5. Remove the lug nuts and pull all four tires off the Caravan.
Front Brakes
1. Remove the two bolts that secure the caliper to the axle assembly. Pull the rotor off the brake caliper.
2. Place a pair of pliers on the back brake pad on the caliper and squeeze the piston into the caliper to make room for the thicker brake pads. Hang the brake caliper from the suspension using a wire tie.
3. Pry the cap off the hub with a small screwdriver, remove the nut that secures the rotor to the hub using a socket and ratchet and then pull the rotor off the wheel hub.
4. Slide the new rotor onto the axle hub, secure it using the nut, socket and ratchet and push the hub cover back onto the end of the hub.
5. Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and place the new ones into the caliper. Slide the caliper over the rotor and secure it using the two bolts, socket and ratchet. Repeat this process with the other front disc brake.
Rear Brakes
1. Place the fingers of a drum brake puller around the drum brake and place the threaded post against the axle hub. Turn the threaded post clockwise to pull the drum off the axle hub. If you do not own a brake puller, you can rent one from an auto parts store like Napa, Autozone or Advanced Auto.
2. Remove the spring from each of the two brake shoes using a pair of pliers. Pull the brake shoes off the axle hub.
3. Place the new brake shoes onto the axle hub and secure each one using the spring and your pliers.
4. Slide the new drum onto the wheel studs and axle hub. Pound the brake drum on using a rubber mallet. Repeat this process with the other rear brake.
Finishing Up
1. Place the cap back onto the master cylinder and close the engine hood.
2. Place the wheels on the vehicle, thread the lug nuts onto the wheel studs by hand and tighten each lug nut a quarter turn using the tire iron.
3. Jack up each corner of the Caravan using the jack, remove the jack stand and lower each corner to the ground. Tighten all of the lug nuts using the tire iron.
Read More »»
Getting Started
1. Open the hood and remove the cap from the master cylinder.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on all four tires using the tire iron supplied with the caravan.
3. Place a jack under the frame directly behind the front driver's tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the frame. Repeat this process with the passenger side front.
4. Place a jack under the frame directly in front of the driver's side rear tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the jack stand. Repeat this process with the passenger side rear.
5. Remove the lug nuts and pull all four tires off the Caravan.
Front Brakes
1. Remove the two bolts that secure the caliper to the axle assembly. Pull the rotor off the brake caliper.
2. Place a pair of pliers on the back brake pad on the caliper and squeeze the piston into the caliper to make room for the thicker brake pads. Hang the brake caliper from the suspension using a wire tie.
3. Pry the cap off the hub with a small screwdriver, remove the nut that secures the rotor to the hub using a socket and ratchet and then pull the rotor off the wheel hub.
4. Slide the new rotor onto the axle hub, secure it using the nut, socket and ratchet and push the hub cover back onto the end of the hub.
5. Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and place the new ones into the caliper. Slide the caliper over the rotor and secure it using the two bolts, socket and ratchet. Repeat this process with the other front disc brake.
Rear Brakes
1. Place the fingers of a drum brake puller around the drum brake and place the threaded post against the axle hub. Turn the threaded post clockwise to pull the drum off the axle hub. If you do not own a brake puller, you can rent one from an auto parts store like Napa, Autozone or Advanced Auto.
2. Remove the spring from each of the two brake shoes using a pair of pliers. Pull the brake shoes off the axle hub.
3. Place the new brake shoes onto the axle hub and secure each one using the spring and your pliers.
4. Slide the new drum onto the wheel studs and axle hub. Pound the brake drum on using a rubber mallet. Repeat this process with the other rear brake.
Finishing Up
1. Place the cap back onto the master cylinder and close the engine hood.
2. Place the wheels on the vehicle, thread the lug nuts onto the wheel studs by hand and tighten each lug nut a quarter turn using the tire iron.
3. Jack up each corner of the Caravan using the jack, remove the jack stand and lower each corner to the ground. Tighten all of the lug nuts using the tire iron.
Read More »»
Replace Disc Pads
Replacing disc brake pads is not hard to do. The procedure is the same for both front and rear wheels, with only some minor differences. If your car has both front and rear disc brakes, you can follow the same procedure for all wheels. The friction that brake pads and rotors create, when stopping your car, wears down the brake pads. The project is easy enough to do in your driveway, so there is no need to take your car to a repair shop to replace the brakes. Each wheel will take about 30 minutes to do.
Procedure:
1. Open the engine compartment and remove ½ the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Raise the vehicle with an automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench and pull the wheel from the car.
2. Loosen the bottom bolt on the caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper away from the rotor and remove the old brake pads. Force the caliper piston back into the housing with a piston tool. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper.
3. Push the caliper into place on the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle and lower it to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder as needed. Pump the brakes a few times until the pedal feels firm Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Open the engine compartment and remove ½ the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Raise the vehicle with an automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench and pull the wheel from the car.
2. Loosen the bottom bolt on the caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper away from the rotor and remove the old brake pads. Force the caliper piston back into the housing with a piston tool. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper.
3. Push the caliper into place on the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle and lower it to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder as needed. Pump the brakes a few times until the pedal feels firm Read More »»
Change Back Brake Shoes on a 1999 Saturn SC1
Worn or damaged brake shoes are a safety hazard if not replaced immediately. Worn or damaged shoes will leave most the braking to the front brakes which are often unable to properly handle the total weight of the vehicle when stopping. On a 1999 Saturn SC1, the brake shoes on the back of the vehicle can be changed quickly by most backyard mechanics with a few simple tools. It is helpful to do one side at a time, using the complete assembly as a guide when installing the other side
Procedure:
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle with an automotive jack and support it with jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts with a socket wrench and pull the wheel from the wheel studs.
3. Pull the front of the brake drum assembly from the assembly.
4. Remove the adjuster spring, the dark-colored spring near the top of the drum assembly, from the front and rear brake shoes with needle-nose pliers.
5. Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and detach the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
6. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the front brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
7. Pull the front brake shoe from the backing plate.
8. Disengage the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers and remove them from the backing plate.
9. Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
10. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the rear brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
11. Pull the rear brake shoe slightly away from the backing plate to access the parking brake cable. Detach the plug on the end of the cable from the parking brake lever on the brake shoe with needle-nose pliers.
12. Detach the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe, removing the c-clip and washer with a screwdriver.
13. Place the parking brake lever on the new rear brake shoe, installing the c-clip and washer to hold the lever to the shoe.
14. Apply high-temperature grease to the six raised contact points on the inside of the backing plate.
15. Pull the end of the parking brake cable to access the plug at the end of the cable and attach it to the plug on the end of the parking brake lever in the rear brake shoe.
16. Place the rear brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
17. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
18. Place the front brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the front brake shoe hold-down spring and the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
19. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring to the front braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
20. Place the wheel on the wheel studs and install the lug nuts with a torque wrench, tightening them to 100 foot-lbs.
21. Repeats Steps 2 through 21 to replace the brake shoes on the other side of the vehicle.
22. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle with the automotive jack. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle with an automotive jack and support it with jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts with a socket wrench and pull the wheel from the wheel studs.
3. Pull the front of the brake drum assembly from the assembly.
4. Remove the adjuster spring, the dark-colored spring near the top of the drum assembly, from the front and rear brake shoes with needle-nose pliers.
5. Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and detach the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
6. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the front brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
7. Pull the front brake shoe from the backing plate.
8. Disengage the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers and remove them from the backing plate.
9. Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
10. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the rear brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
11. Pull the rear brake shoe slightly away from the backing plate to access the parking brake cable. Detach the plug on the end of the cable from the parking brake lever on the brake shoe with needle-nose pliers.
12. Detach the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe, removing the c-clip and washer with a screwdriver.
13. Place the parking brake lever on the new rear brake shoe, installing the c-clip and washer to hold the lever to the shoe.
14. Apply high-temperature grease to the six raised contact points on the inside of the backing plate.
15. Pull the end of the parking brake cable to access the plug at the end of the cable and attach it to the plug on the end of the parking brake lever in the rear brake shoe.
16. Place the rear brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
17. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
18. Place the front brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the front brake shoe hold-down spring and the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
19. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring to the front braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
20. Place the wheel on the wheel studs and install the lug nuts with a torque wrench, tightening them to 100 foot-lbs.
21. Repeats Steps 2 through 21 to replace the brake shoes on the other side of the vehicle.
22. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle with the automotive jack. Read More »»
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Change Brake Pads and Calipers
Brake pads are replaced multiple times throughout the life of a vehicle. Calipers sometimes need replacing when the piston will no longer move, or the seals have begun to leak, due to age. The caliper squeezes the brake pads against the brake rotor, causing the vehicle to slow down.
Procedure:
1. Break loose the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Lift the vehicle into the air, with the floor jack, and place jack stands under the frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the floor jack, until the vehicle sits on the jack stands. Shake the vehicle to ensure the vehicle is safely sitting on the jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts, and pull the tire away from the vehicle. Place a drain pan underneath the wheel hub, to catch the brake fluid that will be lost from the brake lines.
3. Remove the rubber brake line from the caliper with the wrench set. Loosely wrap mechanic's wire around the rubber line, and angle it upward, securing it to the suspension. Ensure the rubber line does not kink.
4. Remove the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper away from the caliper-mounting bracket, and empty any brake fluid into the drain pan.
5. Pour brake fluid into the new caliper, and attach the rubber brake line to the new caliper. Place the new brake pads into position on the new caliper, and slide the caliper into position. Secure the caliper, by installing the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet.
6. Instruct your assistant to pump the brakes, until a firm pedal is achieved. Release the bleeder valve on the new caliper with the wrench set, and allow the air and fluid to run out the valve. Instruct the helper to hold the pedal to the floor, until the bleeder valve has been tightened. Repeat the process, until no more air comes from the bleeder valve. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Break loose the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Lift the vehicle into the air, with the floor jack, and place jack stands under the frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the floor jack, until the vehicle sits on the jack stands. Shake the vehicle to ensure the vehicle is safely sitting on the jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts, and pull the tire away from the vehicle. Place a drain pan underneath the wheel hub, to catch the brake fluid that will be lost from the brake lines.
3. Remove the rubber brake line from the caliper with the wrench set. Loosely wrap mechanic's wire around the rubber line, and angle it upward, securing it to the suspension. Ensure the rubber line does not kink.
4. Remove the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper away from the caliper-mounting bracket, and empty any brake fluid into the drain pan.
5. Pour brake fluid into the new caliper, and attach the rubber brake line to the new caliper. Place the new brake pads into position on the new caliper, and slide the caliper into position. Secure the caliper, by installing the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet.
6. Instruct your assistant to pump the brakes, until a firm pedal is achieved. Release the bleeder valve on the new caliper with the wrench set, and allow the air and fluid to run out the valve. Instruct the helper to hold the pedal to the floor, until the bleeder valve has been tightened. Repeat the process, until no more air comes from the bleeder valve. Read More »»
Replacing Rear Brakes on a 2004 Infinity FX45
The 2004 Infiniti FX45 is equipped with both front and rear disc brakes. Disc brakes stop the vehicle by using a hydraulic piston to press two brake pads against a flat, metal rotor to create friction. This friction is what stops the vehicle. The friction also wears away the brake pads. Eventually, you will have to replace the pads. You'll know it's time when you begin to hear a squealing sound when you press the brake pedal. Do not ignore the sound. If you wait too long, the worn pads will damage the rotors, making the repair much more expensive.
Procedure:
1. Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle using the jack. Support both sides by lowering the vehicle onto jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts and take off the rear wheels.
3. Place a drip pan under the brake assembly. Spray the entire assembly with brake cleaner to remove the brake pad dust. Let the brakes air dry.
4. Use a socket wrench to remove the upper sliding pin bolt located on the rear of the brake caliper.
5. Rotate the cylinder body down off the rotor to access the brake pads in the torque member. Use a piece of wire to secure the cylinder body to prevent damage to the brake hose.
6. Slide the old pads out of the torque member. If necessary, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to lift the pad retainers, but be careful not to bend them.
7. Apply a coat of high-temperature silicon-based grease to the rear of the new pads. Attach the new shims to the back of the pads and put a coat of grease on the back of the shims.
8. Place the pads back in the torque member. Make sure the pad retainers are fully seated in the torque member.
9. Use a large C-clamp to press the piston back into the cylinder body.
10. Rotate the cylinder body back onto the torque member. Replace the lower sliding pin and use the torque wrench to tighten it to 32 ft.-lbs. of torque. Repeat the procedure on the other rear wheel.
11. Replace the wheels and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.
12. Drive the vehicle for a few miles. Make several quick stops from approximately 40 miles an hour. This will seat the pads and condition the surface of the brake pads for maximum efficiency. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels. Raise the rear of the vehicle using the jack. Support both sides by lowering the vehicle onto jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts and take off the rear wheels.
3. Place a drip pan under the brake assembly. Spray the entire assembly with brake cleaner to remove the brake pad dust. Let the brakes air dry.
4. Use a socket wrench to remove the upper sliding pin bolt located on the rear of the brake caliper.
5. Rotate the cylinder body down off the rotor to access the brake pads in the torque member. Use a piece of wire to secure the cylinder body to prevent damage to the brake hose.
6. Slide the old pads out of the torque member. If necessary, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to lift the pad retainers, but be careful not to bend them.
7. Apply a coat of high-temperature silicon-based grease to the rear of the new pads. Attach the new shims to the back of the pads and put a coat of grease on the back of the shims.
8. Place the pads back in the torque member. Make sure the pad retainers are fully seated in the torque member.
9. Use a large C-clamp to press the piston back into the cylinder body.
10. Rotate the cylinder body back onto the torque member. Replace the lower sliding pin and use the torque wrench to tighten it to 32 ft.-lbs. of torque. Repeat the procedure on the other rear wheel.
11. Replace the wheels and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.
12. Drive the vehicle for a few miles. Make several quick stops from approximately 40 miles an hour. This will seat the pads and condition the surface of the brake pads for maximum efficiency. Read More »»
Make Your Saab 9-5 Go Faster
In 1999, Saab introduced its new upscale model, the Saab 9-5, to replace its predecessor, the Saab 9000. The 9-5 featured a redesigned body, more horsepower and torque, and an updated interior.
But the 9-5 is designed with the layman in mind. There are many aftermarket options to increase horsepower and torque in the 9-5. Some are more complex than others. By replacing the software or the Engine Control Unit (ECU for short), driving enthusiasts can unlock the horsepower and torque that the 2.3 liter turbo-charged engine is capable of of making, without having to change any of the car's hardware.
Preparation
1. Set the hand brake, remove the key from the ignition switch, and open the hood.
2. Disconnect the negative battery lead from the battery terminal, using the adjustable wrench. Usually this lead is black. This will prevent any possibility of shock or shorting during the project.
3. Clear away any debris that has collected on the plastic run-off cover at the bottom of the windshield.
Removing the Factory ECU
1. Loosen the plastic run-off cover by unscrewing the bolts that hold it in place with a Phillips-head screw driver.
2.Lift up the plastic run-off cover approximately six to eight inches, but do not remove it. Locate the ECU's oval-shaped plastic protective cover. The cover will have a plastic tube full of wires connected to its side.
3. Unscrew the bolts holding the protective cover in place using the 10 mm socket wrench. The socket-wrench extender may be needed to reach some of the bolts.
4. Lift up the black lever that releases the wiring coupler on the top of the ECU. The ECU is the silver box mounted vertically under the plastic protector. Disconnect the wiring coupler from the ECU.
5. Unscrew the two bolts located on either side of the ECU using the 10 mm wrench and slide the ECU out of its retaining bracket
Replacing the ECU
1. Slide the new aftermarket ECU into the bracket where the factory ECU was just removed.
2. Replace the two bolts that hold the ECU in the bracket, using the 10 mm socket wrench.
3. Align the wiring coupler with the new ECU and plug it in. Fold down the black plastic handle to secure the connection.
4. Replace the ECU's plastic protective cover and the plastic run-off cover.
5. Reconnect the negative battery lead and test to see that the ECU is functioning properly by starting the car. The car is governed by the ECU and will not start if there is something wrong with the installation.
6. Close the hood and take the car for a test drive. Drive slowly at first to make sure the car is operating properly, then gradually increase overall speed and acceleration. Read More »»
But the 9-5 is designed with the layman in mind. There are many aftermarket options to increase horsepower and torque in the 9-5. Some are more complex than others. By replacing the software or the Engine Control Unit (ECU for short), driving enthusiasts can unlock the horsepower and torque that the 2.3 liter turbo-charged engine is capable of of making, without having to change any of the car's hardware.
Preparation
1. Set the hand brake, remove the key from the ignition switch, and open the hood.
2. Disconnect the negative battery lead from the battery terminal, using the adjustable wrench. Usually this lead is black. This will prevent any possibility of shock or shorting during the project.
3. Clear away any debris that has collected on the plastic run-off cover at the bottom of the windshield.
Removing the Factory ECU
1. Loosen the plastic run-off cover by unscrewing the bolts that hold it in place with a Phillips-head screw driver.
2.Lift up the plastic run-off cover approximately six to eight inches, but do not remove it. Locate the ECU's oval-shaped plastic protective cover. The cover will have a plastic tube full of wires connected to its side.
3. Unscrew the bolts holding the protective cover in place using the 10 mm socket wrench. The socket-wrench extender may be needed to reach some of the bolts.
4. Lift up the black lever that releases the wiring coupler on the top of the ECU. The ECU is the silver box mounted vertically under the plastic protector. Disconnect the wiring coupler from the ECU.
5. Unscrew the two bolts located on either side of the ECU using the 10 mm wrench and slide the ECU out of its retaining bracket
Replacing the ECU
1. Slide the new aftermarket ECU into the bracket where the factory ECU was just removed.
2. Replace the two bolts that hold the ECU in the bracket, using the 10 mm socket wrench.
3. Align the wiring coupler with the new ECU and plug it in. Fold down the black plastic handle to secure the connection.
4. Replace the ECU's plastic protective cover and the plastic run-off cover.
5. Reconnect the negative battery lead and test to see that the ECU is functioning properly by starting the car. The car is governed by the ECU and will not start if there is something wrong with the installation.
6. Close the hood and take the car for a test drive. Drive slowly at first to make sure the car is operating properly, then gradually increase overall speed and acceleration. Read More »»
Replace the Front Brakes on a Saturn Ion
The front brakes on the Saturn Ion are not difficult to replace and can be done in your driveway. Replacing the brakes yourself can save you money, rather than taking your car to a repair garage and paying for brake repairs. It should take you about 30 minutes to replace the car's brake pads. Your brake pads may make a high-pitched squeal noise when you step on the brake pedal, indicating they need to be replaced. However, you should never depend solely on brake noise to determine when to change the pads. You should inspect them as part of a regular maintenance routine.
Procedure:
1. Park the car on level ground and turn off its ignition. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Open and secure the engine compartment hood.
2. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master brake cylinder using the turkey baster. Put the fluid in the drain pan for later recycling.
3. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Saturn with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it to the frame of the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench. Pull the wheel off the car.
4. Loosen the bottom caliper bolt with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper up and off the wheel assembly. Push the caliper piston back into the housing using the c-clamp and closing the caliper and back brake pad between the jaws until the piston seats itself. Pull the pads and retaining clips from the caliper and discard them.
5. Place the new brake pads into the caliper along with the retaining clips. Pivot the brake caliper down onto the wheel assembly. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 3 through 5 on the other wheel.
6. Replace the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Saturn. Lower the vehicle to the ground and fully tighten the lug nuts.
7. Open the vehicle's hood. Add brake fluid, as needed, to the proper operating level. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the car on level ground and turn off its ignition. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Open and secure the engine compartment hood.
2. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master brake cylinder using the turkey baster. Put the fluid in the drain pan for later recycling.
3. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Saturn with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it to the frame of the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench. Pull the wheel off the car.
4. Loosen the bottom caliper bolt with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper up and off the wheel assembly. Push the caliper piston back into the housing using the c-clamp and closing the caliper and back brake pad between the jaws until the piston seats itself. Pull the pads and retaining clips from the caliper and discard them.
5. Place the new brake pads into the caliper along with the retaining clips. Pivot the brake caliper down onto the wheel assembly. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 3 through 5 on the other wheel.
6. Replace the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Saturn. Lower the vehicle to the ground and fully tighten the lug nuts.
7. Open the vehicle's hood. Add brake fluid, as needed, to the proper operating level. Read More »»
Friday, November 19, 2010
Install Drilled Rotors
Rotors are important brake system components. Calipers squeeze the brake pads that surround the rotors, which helps to slow or stop a vehicle. Rotors are available in a variety of designs and sizes, so you will have no problem finding ones that work with your vehicle braking system. Drilled rotors feature holes that help keep the metal cool, which reduces slippage between the pad and the rotor surface and makes it easier for your vehicle to slow down or stop. Save time and money, by replacing your automobile rotors yourself.
Procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on a level work surface, to prevent the car from rolling. Apply the emergency brake, and turn off the ignition.
2. Place a floor jack under the lift point of the tire that is being removed, so you can access the rotors. Lift the car, slightly, and loosen the wheel lug nuts with a tire iron. Raise the wheel completely off the ground, and remove the loosened lug nuts and wheel to expose the brake caliper.
3. Remove the bolts that secure the caliper and the caliper bracket, using a ratchet and an appropriate-sized socket. Tie the unsecured caliper to the strut assembly with string, to prevent it from hanging on the brake line that is still attached to the back.
4. Slide the rotor off the wheel spindle and lug bolts. Tap on the back of the rotor with a hammer or mallet to loosen it, if it is stuck.
5. Slide the new, drilled rotor over the spindle and lug bolts. Reattach the caliper bracket that typically surrounds the rotor, using the ratchet and socket.
6. Place a C-clamp over the body of the caliper so that one end rests against the face of the old brake pad, and the other end is at the rear. Tighten the clamp, to push the brake piston back into the caliper body, so it can be fitted with new pads. Remove the old pads, and install the new ones.
7. Slide the caliper over the newly installed rotors. Secure the caliper into place, with the same bolts that were removed, previously, with a ratchet and socket. Place the wheel over the lug bolts, and tighten them, along with the nuts.
8. Lower the floor jack, so the tire makes contact with the ground. Tighten the lug nuts with a tire iron. Remove the floor jack from that specific lift point, and continue to the next tire. Step on the brake pedal to put pressure into the calipers, which will press the brake pads into place, when all of the rotors are installed. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on a level work surface, to prevent the car from rolling. Apply the emergency brake, and turn off the ignition.
2. Place a floor jack under the lift point of the tire that is being removed, so you can access the rotors. Lift the car, slightly, and loosen the wheel lug nuts with a tire iron. Raise the wheel completely off the ground, and remove the loosened lug nuts and wheel to expose the brake caliper.
3. Remove the bolts that secure the caliper and the caliper bracket, using a ratchet and an appropriate-sized socket. Tie the unsecured caliper to the strut assembly with string, to prevent it from hanging on the brake line that is still attached to the back.
4. Slide the rotor off the wheel spindle and lug bolts. Tap on the back of the rotor with a hammer or mallet to loosen it, if it is stuck.
5. Slide the new, drilled rotor over the spindle and lug bolts. Reattach the caliper bracket that typically surrounds the rotor, using the ratchet and socket.
6. Place a C-clamp over the body of the caliper so that one end rests against the face of the old brake pad, and the other end is at the rear. Tighten the clamp, to push the brake piston back into the caliper body, so it can be fitted with new pads. Remove the old pads, and install the new ones.
7. Slide the caliper over the newly installed rotors. Secure the caliper into place, with the same bolts that were removed, previously, with a ratchet and socket. Place the wheel over the lug bolts, and tighten them, along with the nuts.
8. Lower the floor jack, so the tire makes contact with the ground. Tighten the lug nuts with a tire iron. Remove the floor jack from that specific lift point, and continue to the next tire. Step on the brake pedal to put pressure into the calipers, which will press the brake pads into place, when all of the rotors are installed. Read More »»
Change the Front Brakes in a Town & Country Van
Periodic brake replacement on the Chrysler Town & Country is part of the vehicle's regular maintenance work. The frequency of the van's brake replacement depends on the amount of wear and tear on the brakes. If you drive the car occasionally, your brakes will last longer than brakes that are used frequently. You should inspect the pads and rotors as part of your regular maintenance routine.
Procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on level ground and turn off its ignition. Open and secure the the engine compartment hood. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan for recycling after the project is complete.
2. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Town and Country using the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the vehicle and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench and pull the tire off the car.
3. Loosen the bolts on the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet. Place the back of the brake caliper and the back brake pad between the jaws of the C-clamp. Close the clamp until the caliper piston is seated inside the caliper housing. Remove the brake pads from the caliper and discard them.
4. Place the new brake pads in the caliper. Put the caliper in place on the wheel assembly and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 2 through 4 on the other wheel.
5. Place the wheel back on the Town and Country. Tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the van to the ground with the automobile jack and fully tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
6. Open and secure the van's hood. Add fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder, as needed. Close the vehicle's hood.
7. Sit in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal several times until it is firm. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the vehicle on level ground and turn off its ignition. Open and secure the the engine compartment hood. Remove one-half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan for recycling after the project is complete.
2. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Loosen the wheel's lug nuts with the lug wrench. Raise the Town and Country using the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the vehicle and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench and pull the tire off the car.
3. Loosen the bolts on the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet. Place the back of the brake caliper and the back brake pad between the jaws of the C-clamp. Close the clamp until the caliper piston is seated inside the caliper housing. Remove the brake pads from the caliper and discard them.
4. Place the new brake pads in the caliper. Put the caliper in place on the wheel assembly and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Repeat Steps 2 through 4 on the other wheel.
5. Place the wheel back on the Town and Country. Tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle. Lower the van to the ground with the automobile jack and fully tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
6. Open and secure the van's hood. Add fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder, as needed. Close the vehicle's hood.
7. Sit in the driver's seat and pump the brake pedal several times until it is firm. Read More »»
New Brake Pads & Noise
New brake pads on an automobile commonly cause brake noise. The new pads will take some time to wear in, or "bed", and a tolerable amount of noise during this time is normal. Other noises could spell trouble; investigate them further.
Brake Bedding
New brake pads normally require about 300 miles of city driving before they become fully bedded, or worn in with the rotors. A tolerable amount of noise---usually a light squeal---is normal during this period. You can accelerate the bedding process by performing a half dozen or so rapid slowdowns from highway speed to about 20 miles per hour and then driving the car without braking for 10 minutes or so to let the brakes cool. Perform the decelerations in rapid succession so the brakes do not cool between them.
Noise-Reducing Shims
Soft, noise-reducing shims placed on the backs of the brake pads are the most common, and the most effective, means of eliminating most brake noise. Pad installation jobs often omit the shims, or make use of low-quality shims, with the result that the new pads squeal. Installing new, high quality noise-reducing shims will often fix the problem.
Brake Pad Lining Material
Brake noise can result from the installation of new pads with linings made from a harder material than the old linings. A barely audible grinding sound during low-speed braking is normal for hard linings---especially when the brakes are cold. Hard linings will more likely produce brake squeal; use so noise-reducing shims.
Brake Pad Design
High-quality brake pads often have a chamfered, or angled, edge along the leading and trailing edges of the pad lining. On low-quality pads, the lining edges usually have sharp corners. Pads with sharp corners are more prone to producing brake noise---especially during the bedding period---and a change to pads with chamfered edges will often fix the problem.
Improper Pad Installation
Improperly reinstalled calipers, or pads not positioned firmly in the calipers, will often cause vibration and noise. If the brakes are noisy immediately after servicing, double-check the brakes to ensure everything has been properly assembled. Read More »»
Brake Bedding
New brake pads normally require about 300 miles of city driving before they become fully bedded, or worn in with the rotors. A tolerable amount of noise---usually a light squeal---is normal during this period. You can accelerate the bedding process by performing a half dozen or so rapid slowdowns from highway speed to about 20 miles per hour and then driving the car without braking for 10 minutes or so to let the brakes cool. Perform the decelerations in rapid succession so the brakes do not cool between them.
Noise-Reducing Shims
Soft, noise-reducing shims placed on the backs of the brake pads are the most common, and the most effective, means of eliminating most brake noise. Pad installation jobs often omit the shims, or make use of low-quality shims, with the result that the new pads squeal. Installing new, high quality noise-reducing shims will often fix the problem.
Brake Pad Lining Material
Brake noise can result from the installation of new pads with linings made from a harder material than the old linings. A barely audible grinding sound during low-speed braking is normal for hard linings---especially when the brakes are cold. Hard linings will more likely produce brake squeal; use so noise-reducing shims.
Brake Pad Design
High-quality brake pads often have a chamfered, or angled, edge along the leading and trailing edges of the pad lining. On low-quality pads, the lining edges usually have sharp corners. Pads with sharp corners are more prone to producing brake noise---especially during the bedding period---and a change to pads with chamfered edges will often fix the problem.
Improper Pad Installation
Improperly reinstalled calipers, or pads not positioned firmly in the calipers, will often cause vibration and noise. If the brakes are noisy immediately after servicing, double-check the brakes to ensure everything has been properly assembled. Read More »»
Make a 1997 Saab 900SE Turbo Faster
The Saab 900SE has a 2.0-liter, turbo-charged engine. From the factory, the 900SE produces 185 horsepower. Saab designed the 900SE with the layman in mind. Its Trionic 5 ECU, which governs the 900's engine system, is designed to accommodate low-grade gasoline and oil. With a few simple tools and the right knowledge, a driving enthusiast can unlock as much as 35 horsepower without replacing any of the car's factory hardware by simply installing a reprogrammed ECU.Preparation
1. Set the emergency hand brake, remove the key from the ignition switch and open the hood.
2. Disconnect the negative (black) battery lead from the battery terminal with an adjustable wrench to prevent any possibility of shock.
3. Open the passenger's side door and remove the floor mat.
Locating and Removing the Factory ECU
1. Loosen and remove the lower dashboard screw with a 10 mm socket wrench. The screw is located by the door frame where the carpet meets the dashboard, across from the door speaker.
2. Pull back the carpet to access ECU, being careful to avoid creasing the carpet.
3. Loosen the screw holding the ECU in place with the 10 mm socket wrench. The ECU is a rectangular silver box with a black and red lever on the bottom and is mounted under the dashboard.
4. Move down the black part of the lever to release the wire coupling then disconnect it.
5. Slide out the factory ECU.
Installing the New ECU
1. Slide the aftermarket ECU into its slot.
2. Line up the wiring coupler and plug it into the new ECU. Release the handle into its closed position.
3. Replace the 10 mm screw that holds the ECU in the bracket. Replace the carpeting then reinstall the lower dashboard screw.
4. Reconnect the battery lead with the adjustable wrench then close the hood.
5. Start the car and take it for a test drive, running it at low speeds first then progressively working up to higher speeds. Read More »»
1. Set the emergency hand brake, remove the key from the ignition switch and open the hood.
2. Disconnect the negative (black) battery lead from the battery terminal with an adjustable wrench to prevent any possibility of shock.
3. Open the passenger's side door and remove the floor mat.
Locating and Removing the Factory ECU
1. Loosen and remove the lower dashboard screw with a 10 mm socket wrench. The screw is located by the door frame where the carpet meets the dashboard, across from the door speaker.
2. Pull back the carpet to access ECU, being careful to avoid creasing the carpet.
3. Loosen the screw holding the ECU in place with the 10 mm socket wrench. The ECU is a rectangular silver box with a black and red lever on the bottom and is mounted under the dashboard.
4. Move down the black part of the lever to release the wire coupling then disconnect it.
5. Slide out the factory ECU.
Installing the New ECU
1. Slide the aftermarket ECU into its slot.
2. Line up the wiring coupler and plug it into the new ECU. Release the handle into its closed position.
3. Replace the 10 mm screw that holds the ECU in the bracket. Replace the carpeting then reinstall the lower dashboard screw.
4. Reconnect the battery lead with the adjustable wrench then close the hood.
5. Start the car and take it for a test drive, running it at low speeds first then progressively working up to higher speeds. Read More »»
Thursday, November 18, 2010
Change Yukon Brake Pads
The brake pads on the GMC Yukon are key components to the overall braking system. The brake pads also require the most frequent replacement. The material on the brake pads surfaces are relatively soft to provide the necessary grip on the Yukon's brake rotors during braking. The soft material wears due to the stress and heat caused by slowing the vehicle, which weighs more than two tons. You can have the brake pads replaced by a professional brake mechanic, or you can do the job yourself and save the cost of labor.
Procedure:
1. Park the Yukon on a flat surface. Turn off the engine. Pull the hood release lever under the dashboard on the driver's side of the vehicle. Move to the front of the vehicle and lift the hood. Remove the cap from the master cylinder. The master cylinder is the white reservoir with the dark gray cap to the right of the Yukon's engine. Remove half of the brake fluid from the container with a turkey baster. Place the cap onto the container but do not secure it tightly--the fluid level will need to rise during future steps.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels corresponding to the brake pads you are replacing with a lug wrench, or a 21-mm socket and breaker bar. Place the jack under the frame at the front of the SUV and lift the tires off the ground. Lower the front of the Yukon onto at least two jack stands for safety. Remove the lug nuts and take the wheels/tires off.
3. Locate the two caliper slide pins on the back side of each wheel's brake caliper. Remove the pins with an adjustable wrench or pliers. Lift the calipers from their respective caliper brackets and rest them on top of the steering arm above the wheel hub.
4. Pry the old brake pads from the slots of the caliper brackets with a flat-head screwdriver. The brackets hold the brake pads in place adjacent to the rotor. Clean the bracket slots with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.
5. Place new brake pads into the caliper bracket slots. Squeeze the caliper pistons into the side of the caliper with a C-clamp or channel-lock pliers to make room for the bulkier new brake pads. Place the caliper over the brake pads inside the caliper bracket slots and screw in the caliper slide pins.
6. Replace the wheels/tires onto the wheel bolts and screw on the lug nuts. Lift the Yukon with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the tires to the ground and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench or socket and breaker bar. Move to the engine compartment.
7. Remove the master cylinder cap and check the level of brake fluid. Place a funnel into the container and add fluid as necessary. Remove the funnel and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the Yukon's hood. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the Yukon on a flat surface. Turn off the engine. Pull the hood release lever under the dashboard on the driver's side of the vehicle. Move to the front of the vehicle and lift the hood. Remove the cap from the master cylinder. The master cylinder is the white reservoir with the dark gray cap to the right of the Yukon's engine. Remove half of the brake fluid from the container with a turkey baster. Place the cap onto the container but do not secure it tightly--the fluid level will need to rise during future steps.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels corresponding to the brake pads you are replacing with a lug wrench, or a 21-mm socket and breaker bar. Place the jack under the frame at the front of the SUV and lift the tires off the ground. Lower the front of the Yukon onto at least two jack stands for safety. Remove the lug nuts and take the wheels/tires off.
3. Locate the two caliper slide pins on the back side of each wheel's brake caliper. Remove the pins with an adjustable wrench or pliers. Lift the calipers from their respective caliper brackets and rest them on top of the steering arm above the wheel hub.
4. Pry the old brake pads from the slots of the caliper brackets with a flat-head screwdriver. The brackets hold the brake pads in place adjacent to the rotor. Clean the bracket slots with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.
5. Place new brake pads into the caliper bracket slots. Squeeze the caliper pistons into the side of the caliper with a C-clamp or channel-lock pliers to make room for the bulkier new brake pads. Place the caliper over the brake pads inside the caliper bracket slots and screw in the caliper slide pins.
6. Replace the wheels/tires onto the wheel bolts and screw on the lug nuts. Lift the Yukon with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the tires to the ground and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench or socket and breaker bar. Move to the engine compartment.
7. Remove the master cylinder cap and check the level of brake fluid. Place a funnel into the container and add fluid as necessary. Remove the funnel and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the Yukon's hood. Read More »»
Remove a Bumper on a 1989 Jeep
Many Jeep models from 1989 come with a bumper already installed on the front. There are several alternatives to this bumper that can be installed as an aftermarket option. Some are purely for aesthetic value and cannot handle much force, while others are better equipped for pulling and towing. But before you can add an alternative to the front of your Jeep, you must remove the original Jeep bumper
Procedure:
1. Remove the four torx bolts on the bumper with a socket wrench and T55 torx bit. There are two on each side under each headlight on the top of the bumper.
2. Remove the two sway bar bolts using a 15mm socket. There is one located on each side of the bumper above the torx bolts you removed in Step 1.
3. Remove the two 18mm bolts using an 18mm socket. These are located underneath the bumper, one on each side. They are positioned almost directly below the other bolts you removed.
4. Pull the front bumper away from the car. Without the bolts attached, it will come right off. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Remove the four torx bolts on the bumper with a socket wrench and T55 torx bit. There are two on each side under each headlight on the top of the bumper.
2. Remove the two sway bar bolts using a 15mm socket. There is one located on each side of the bumper above the torx bolts you removed in Step 1.
3. Remove the two 18mm bolts using an 18mm socket. These are located underneath the bumper, one on each side. They are positioned almost directly below the other bolts you removed.
4. Pull the front bumper away from the car. Without the bolts attached, it will come right off. Read More »»
Change the Transmission Filter on a 2005 Z-71
2005 Z71 is a full size General Motors pick-up truck with an eight-cylinder engine. The transmission filter needs to be changed every time that the transmission fluid is changed. The transmission filter is located on the side of the transmission secured to the bottom of the transmission fluid pump. You will need to have basic mechanics tools and a clean work area. Changing the transmission filter will take about 45 minutes.
Step Instructions:
1. Raise the front right (driver) side of the frame using the jack. Lower it onto a jack stand to get under the transmission.
2. Place the drain pan under the transmission's drain plug. Remove the plug using the ratchet set and drain the fluid into the pan. Replace and tighten the plug
3. Unscrew the filter from the transmission fluid pump to the right of the transmission. Fill the new filter with transmission fluid and screw it into the fluid pump. Read More »»
Step Instructions:
1. Raise the front right (driver) side of the frame using the jack. Lower it onto a jack stand to get under the transmission.
2. Place the drain pan under the transmission's drain plug. Remove the plug using the ratchet set and drain the fluid into the pan. Replace and tighten the plug
3. Unscrew the filter from the transmission fluid pump to the right of the transmission. Fill the new filter with transmission fluid and screw it into the fluid pump. Read More »»
Check Rear Drum Brakes
Drum brake systems were the dominant brake technology in the automotive world. With the advent of superior disc braking technology, together with the associated power-braking technology needed to make disc brakes practical, drum brakes are now found mostly on the rear wheels of less expensive vehicles. Given that many households keep an inexpensive vehicle as a second car, this means that drum brakes are still frequently encountered, and the DIY mechanic can benefit from learning how to check drum brakes.
Instructions:
1. Park the vehicle on a firm and level surface. Put automatic transmissions in park, and put manual transmissions in first or reverse gear. Do not engage the parking brake. Securely block the front wheels to prevent vehicle movement.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels about one turn each. Jack up the rear of the vehicle, and set it securely on jack stands. Completely remove the lug nuts, and pull the wheels off both sides.
3. Remove the drums from both rear brakes in such a manner that the brake not being serviced can serve as a visual reference. For some brake designs, the drum can be pulled right off the hub. For other designs, the drum might be fastened to the hub assembly by retaining screws or bolts. If so, remove the retaining fasteners before pulling the drum off. Sometimes the drum is secured with a single large hub nut that must be removed before removing the drum. If the drum is seized, firmly tap the outer shoulder of the drum with a rubber or plastic mallet to loosen it. Sometimes the brake shoes may be pressing on the inside of the drum and preventing its removal. If this is the case, be sure that the parking brake is not engaged. Next, look for a port on the backing plate with a rubber cover. Remove the cover to reveal the brake self-adjuster wheel. Reach inside with a small screwdriver, and rotate the self-adjuster to release tension on the brake shoes. This will back the shoes away from the drum.
4. Measure the thickness of the linings on the brake shoes with a finely-graduated ruler. Compare the measurement to the manufacturer's specified minimum thickness, which can be found in the vehicle's shop manual or aftermarket repair manual. These can usually be found at the local library. Check the brake shoe linings for damage or uneven wear. If the linings are damaged or worn out they should be replaced.
5. Measure the inside diameter of the brake drum in several different directions with the brake drum micrometer. If the drum is round, the diameter will be the same in all directions. Compare the measured diameter to the manufacturer's specified maximum diameter, which is usually stamped into the metal on the outside of the drum. Check the drum for cracks, deep scores, or other damage. If the drum diameter exceeds the allowable maximum, or if the drum is irreparably damaged, it should be replaced. Minor drum damage can be repaired by having the drum machined at an auto parts store.
6. Check the general condition of the brake springs, the self-adjuster mechanism, and the brake cylinder. Replace parts as needed.
7. Reassemble the brake by following the steps in reverse order. Repeat the procedure for the brake on the other side of the vehicle.
8. Lower the vehicle. Start the engine and gently push the brake pedal a few times to extend the cylinders. Try a few stops in reverse to be sure the self-adjusters are properly set. Carefully test the brake operation before driving normally. Read More »»
Instructions:
1. Park the vehicle on a firm and level surface. Put automatic transmissions in park, and put manual transmissions in first or reverse gear. Do not engage the parking brake. Securely block the front wheels to prevent vehicle movement.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels about one turn each. Jack up the rear of the vehicle, and set it securely on jack stands. Completely remove the lug nuts, and pull the wheels off both sides.
3. Remove the drums from both rear brakes in such a manner that the brake not being serviced can serve as a visual reference. For some brake designs, the drum can be pulled right off the hub. For other designs, the drum might be fastened to the hub assembly by retaining screws or bolts. If so, remove the retaining fasteners before pulling the drum off. Sometimes the drum is secured with a single large hub nut that must be removed before removing the drum. If the drum is seized, firmly tap the outer shoulder of the drum with a rubber or plastic mallet to loosen it. Sometimes the brake shoes may be pressing on the inside of the drum and preventing its removal. If this is the case, be sure that the parking brake is not engaged. Next, look for a port on the backing plate with a rubber cover. Remove the cover to reveal the brake self-adjuster wheel. Reach inside with a small screwdriver, and rotate the self-adjuster to release tension on the brake shoes. This will back the shoes away from the drum.
4. Measure the thickness of the linings on the brake shoes with a finely-graduated ruler. Compare the measurement to the manufacturer's specified minimum thickness, which can be found in the vehicle's shop manual or aftermarket repair manual. These can usually be found at the local library. Check the brake shoe linings for damage or uneven wear. If the linings are damaged or worn out they should be replaced.
5. Measure the inside diameter of the brake drum in several different directions with the brake drum micrometer. If the drum is round, the diameter will be the same in all directions. Compare the measured diameter to the manufacturer's specified maximum diameter, which is usually stamped into the metal on the outside of the drum. Check the drum for cracks, deep scores, or other damage. If the drum diameter exceeds the allowable maximum, or if the drum is irreparably damaged, it should be replaced. Minor drum damage can be repaired by having the drum machined at an auto parts store.
6. Check the general condition of the brake springs, the self-adjuster mechanism, and the brake cylinder. Replace parts as needed.
7. Reassemble the brake by following the steps in reverse order. Repeat the procedure for the brake on the other side of the vehicle.
8. Lower the vehicle. Start the engine and gently push the brake pedal a few times to extend the cylinders. Try a few stops in reverse to be sure the self-adjusters are properly set. Carefully test the brake operation before driving normally. Read More »»
2000 Golf GTI Brake Rotor Specs
Just as with any vehicle, when performing a brake job on a 2000 Volkswagen Golf GTI you must check the rotors for machining or reuse. Every manufacturer provides guidelines -- specifications -- for the dimensions of its cars' rotors. There are three main specifications that Volkswagen provides in regard to rotor dimensions: discard thickness, minimal machining and nominal thickness.
Discard Thickness
"Discard thickness" is the minimum thickness that the manufacturer recommends the rotor can be before it must be replaced. If the rotor falls below this specification, you must replace it to avoid damage to the braking system. The front rotors of the 2000 Golf GTI have a discard thickness of .394 inches with a solid rotor and .709 inches with a vented rotor. The rear rotors, for GTIs equipped with rear disk brakes, have a discard rating of .315 inches.
Minimal Machining Rating
The "minimal machining" rating is the measurement that determines if the rotor is eligible for resurfacing or machining. If the rotor's width falls below this number it is not recommended by the manufacturer to machine, or resurface, the rotor. The front rotors have a minimal machining rating of .866 inches with an FN3 caliper, and .748 inches with an FS II caliper.The rear rotors' minimal machining specification is .276 inches.
Nominal Thickness
The "nominal thickness" of a rotor is the thickness of the disk when it is new. The front rotors' nominal thickness on the 2000 Golf GTI is .472 inches for a solid rotor and .788 inches for a vented rotor. The rear rotors have a nominal thickness of .394 inches. Read More »»
Discard Thickness
"Discard thickness" is the minimum thickness that the manufacturer recommends the rotor can be before it must be replaced. If the rotor falls below this specification, you must replace it to avoid damage to the braking system. The front rotors of the 2000 Golf GTI have a discard thickness of .394 inches with a solid rotor and .709 inches with a vented rotor. The rear rotors, for GTIs equipped with rear disk brakes, have a discard rating of .315 inches.
Minimal Machining Rating
The "minimal machining" rating is the measurement that determines if the rotor is eligible for resurfacing or machining. If the rotor's width falls below this number it is not recommended by the manufacturer to machine, or resurface, the rotor. The front rotors have a minimal machining rating of .866 inches with an FN3 caliper, and .748 inches with an FS II caliper.The rear rotors' minimal machining specification is .276 inches.
Nominal Thickness
The "nominal thickness" of a rotor is the thickness of the disk when it is new. The front rotors' nominal thickness on the 2000 Golf GTI is .472 inches for a solid rotor and .788 inches for a vented rotor. The rear rotors have a nominal thickness of .394 inches. Read More »»
Change Rear Disc Brakes
Changing rear disc brakes is actually a fairly simple operation, depending upon what vehicle you are changing them on, and whether you are changing the discs, as well as the pads. Most aspects of the task are common all vehicles. Check a specific repair manual for your vehicle make and model for more specific instructions
Procedure:
1. Jack the rear of the vehicle, and secure it on jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and the rear wheel, and set them aside. Use wood or wheel chocks to secure the front tires, so they do not roll, while you are working on the vehicle. On newer vehicles, ensure that the parking brake is not set. Otherwise, it will be difficult to remove the caliper and the rear disc.
2. Brake calipers are usually held in place by two bolts.
Remove the caliper. Usually, there are two bolts, holding the caliper in place. Often, these require an Allen wrench to be removed. Carefully, lift the caliper off the disc. Remove the old brake pads, and compare them to the new ones, ensuring you have purchased the correct pads. If you are simply replacing pads, skip to Step 4. If you are having rotors turned, or are replacing them, proceed to Step 3.
3. Remove the disc. There are a few different types, and removal steps differ. Check your manual for specific directions. The slip-off type will slide off the hub, or it will be bolted to the hub and can be removed by undoing the bolts and slipping it off the spindle. Simply remove the bolts, and slide these off, replacing them with new ones.
Hub-mounted rotors require you remove the hub. Remove the bearing cap and the cotter pin. Using a large socket, remove the axle nut. Then slide the hub off the axle, using care to catch the outside bearing, as you remove it. You will need to repack bearings, and replace the bearing seal, if you are replacing the hub/rotor assembly.
Replace the hub on the axle, after the rotor has been changed. Using a torque wrench, tighten the axle nut to the manufacturer's specifications. Replace the cotter pin and the bearing cap.
4. Use a C-clamp or a press to slide the caliper pistons all the way back into the caliper, to make room for the new brake pads. Place the new brake pads in the caliper, ensuring that all the brake hardware is replaced the same way it was removed. If desired, place an anti-squeal copper grease on the back of the brake pads, before placing them in the caliper. Place the caliper back over the brake disc, and apply grease to the caliper pin (smooth and shiny) part of the brake bolts, before replacing them. Using the torque wrench, torque the caliper bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Jack the rear of the vehicle, and secure it on jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and the rear wheel, and set them aside. Use wood or wheel chocks to secure the front tires, so they do not roll, while you are working on the vehicle. On newer vehicles, ensure that the parking brake is not set. Otherwise, it will be difficult to remove the caliper and the rear disc.
2. Brake calipers are usually held in place by two bolts.
Remove the caliper. Usually, there are two bolts, holding the caliper in place. Often, these require an Allen wrench to be removed. Carefully, lift the caliper off the disc. Remove the old brake pads, and compare them to the new ones, ensuring you have purchased the correct pads. If you are simply replacing pads, skip to Step 4. If you are having rotors turned, or are replacing them, proceed to Step 3.
3. Remove the disc. There are a few different types, and removal steps differ. Check your manual for specific directions. The slip-off type will slide off the hub, or it will be bolted to the hub and can be removed by undoing the bolts and slipping it off the spindle. Simply remove the bolts, and slide these off, replacing them with new ones.
Hub-mounted rotors require you remove the hub. Remove the bearing cap and the cotter pin. Using a large socket, remove the axle nut. Then slide the hub off the axle, using care to catch the outside bearing, as you remove it. You will need to repack bearings, and replace the bearing seal, if you are replacing the hub/rotor assembly.
Replace the hub on the axle, after the rotor has been changed. Using a torque wrench, tighten the axle nut to the manufacturer's specifications. Replace the cotter pin and the bearing cap.
4. Use a C-clamp or a press to slide the caliper pistons all the way back into the caliper, to make room for the new brake pads. Place the new brake pads in the caliper, ensuring that all the brake hardware is replaced the same way it was removed. If desired, place an anti-squeal copper grease on the back of the brake pads, before placing them in the caliper. Place the caliper back over the brake disc, and apply grease to the caliper pin (smooth and shiny) part of the brake bolts, before replacing them. Using the torque wrench, torque the caliper bolts to the manufacturer's specifications. Read More »»
Wednesday, November 17, 2010
DIY Repair the Blinkers in a Cadillac SRX
The blinkers are an important component of the overall safety on your Cadillac SRX. If they begin to malfunction, they should be repaired as soon as possible. There are three possible reasons for a Cadillac SRX's blinkers failing. The fuse may have broken, the bulb may have burned out, or the electrical connectors may have simply come loose.
1.Open the hood, and locate the under-hood fuse box. Remove the cover and locate the turn signal fuse. It is labeled "LH/POS/PRK LAMP." If the fuse is blown, pull it out with your fingers. A fuse is blown if the metal inside of the fuse is broken and no longer in one solid piece. Place a replacement fuse that is rated the same as the blown one into the fuse box and reattach the cover. Close the hood. If the fuse was not blown, you may need to replace the bulb.
2. Place the jack under the vehicle. Make sure to place the jack under the side on which you will be replacing the blinker.
3. Use the wheel-wrench to loosen the nut covers from the wheel. Do not remove them. Use the jack to raise the vehicle to a level at which you can remove the tire. Use the wheel-wrench to remove the cover of the wheel, and loosen the wheel nuts. Remove the nuts and the tire from the SRX.
4. Remove the four bolts holding the access cover to the wheel well, and pull the cover off the vehicle. Reach into the access area, and locate the electrical connector connected to the rear of the assembly. Pull on it. If it comes out or is loose, securely plug it in. Test the blinkers. If they are still malfunctioning, the bulb may be the problem.
5. Remove the blinker bulb by twisting it counterclockwise. Install the replacement 3157 bulb by twisting it clockwise. Place the access cover back onto the wheel well, and reattach the four bolts.
6. Reattach the tire and wheel nuts, and lower the vehicle. Reinstall the wheel cover and nut covers. Test the blinkers. Read More »»
1.Open the hood, and locate the under-hood fuse box. Remove the cover and locate the turn signal fuse. It is labeled "LH/POS/PRK LAMP." If the fuse is blown, pull it out with your fingers. A fuse is blown if the metal inside of the fuse is broken and no longer in one solid piece. Place a replacement fuse that is rated the same as the blown one into the fuse box and reattach the cover. Close the hood. If the fuse was not blown, you may need to replace the bulb.
2. Place the jack under the vehicle. Make sure to place the jack under the side on which you will be replacing the blinker.
3. Use the wheel-wrench to loosen the nut covers from the wheel. Do not remove them. Use the jack to raise the vehicle to a level at which you can remove the tire. Use the wheel-wrench to remove the cover of the wheel, and loosen the wheel nuts. Remove the nuts and the tire from the SRX.
4. Remove the four bolts holding the access cover to the wheel well, and pull the cover off the vehicle. Reach into the access area, and locate the electrical connector connected to the rear of the assembly. Pull on it. If it comes out or is loose, securely plug it in. Test the blinkers. If they are still malfunctioning, the bulb may be the problem.
5. Remove the blinker bulb by twisting it counterclockwise. Install the replacement 3157 bulb by twisting it clockwise. Place the access cover back onto the wheel well, and reattach the four bolts.
6. Reattach the tire and wheel nuts, and lower the vehicle. Reinstall the wheel cover and nut covers. Test the blinkers. Read More »»
Get the Brake Pads Out of the Calliper
In an automotive disc brake system, the purpose of the brake caliper is to squeeze the brake pads against the rotating brake disc in order to create friction and slow the vehicle. In order to do this effectively, the caliper must hold the pads in such a way that they can slide easily toward and away from the disc, yet not move appreciably in any other direction. Pad vibration, which is the main cause of brake noise, must also be minimized. A variety of clip designs are used to help hold the pads in the caliper, and being familiar with the different designs will help when it comes to removing the pads during brake servicing.
Note: Brake pads are kept in the caliper in different ways, depending on the brake design.
Procedure:
1. Park the car on a firm and level surface. Put automatic transmissions in park and put manual transmissions in first or reverse gear. Set the emergency brake, or if working on the rear wheel of a car where the emergency brake is incorporated into the rear brake calipers, leave the emergency brake off. When working on a front brake, securely block both rear wheels with wheel chocks and when working on a rear brake securely block both front wheels. Loosen the lug nuts about one full turn each, jack up the car, and support the car securely on a safety stand. Finish removing the lug nuts and pull the wheel off.
2. Remove the lower of the two caliper bolts. Rotate the caliper upward around the uppermost caliper bolt until the caliper and brake pads clear the disc. Use a bungee cord or piece of cord to secure the caliper in this position. Be careful not to damage the caliper flexible brake hose.
3. Remove the brake pads from the caliper by sliding them in toward the middle of the caliper until they are released. Sometimes the outer pad will be held in place against the caliper frame by a wire clip. If so, this clip must be pried off the caliper frame before the pad can be removed. On other brake designs, there may be anti-rattle type retaining clips that resemble leaf-type springs. Normally, the pads can be slid over these clips or the clips can be pulled out with pliers to allow the pads to be removed. Take care not to damage the clips so they can be reused. Slide the old pads and shims out of the caliper. Read More »»
Note: Brake pads are kept in the caliper in different ways, depending on the brake design.
Procedure:
1. Park the car on a firm and level surface. Put automatic transmissions in park and put manual transmissions in first or reverse gear. Set the emergency brake, or if working on the rear wheel of a car where the emergency brake is incorporated into the rear brake calipers, leave the emergency brake off. When working on a front brake, securely block both rear wheels with wheel chocks and when working on a rear brake securely block both front wheels. Loosen the lug nuts about one full turn each, jack up the car, and support the car securely on a safety stand. Finish removing the lug nuts and pull the wheel off.
2. Remove the lower of the two caliper bolts. Rotate the caliper upward around the uppermost caliper bolt until the caliper and brake pads clear the disc. Use a bungee cord or piece of cord to secure the caliper in this position. Be careful not to damage the caliper flexible brake hose.
3. Remove the brake pads from the caliper by sliding them in toward the middle of the caliper until they are released. Sometimes the outer pad will be held in place against the caliper frame by a wire clip. If so, this clip must be pried off the caliper frame before the pad can be removed. On other brake designs, there may be anti-rattle type retaining clips that resemble leaf-type springs. Normally, the pads can be slid over these clips or the clips can be pulled out with pliers to allow the pads to be removed. Take care not to damage the clips so they can be reused. Slide the old pads and shims out of the caliper. Read More »»
Change Brake Pads on a 1995 Ford Contour
The 1995 Ford Contour was available with front-wheel disc brakes. The disc brakes were designed to employ a system, involving brake pads and metal brake rotors. The pads are responsible for squeezing the rotors to slow the vehicle during braking. Brake pads that are worn are ill-equipped to provide the stopping power necessary for safe driving. Listen for the squeal from the brake pad wear indicators, or follow the guidelines of the Ford Motor Company, and replace your Contour brake pads every 50,000 miles
Procedure:
1. Park the Contour on a relatively flat surface. Place tire blocks behind the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with the lug wrench.
2. Lift the front of the Ford with the lifting jack, and support the front axles with at least two jack stands. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels.
3. Remove the caliper pins with the 10-mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the brake assembly, and slide the two brake pads from each wheel brake caliper. Use a flat screwdriver to pry the clips on the backs of the brake pads from the caliper, if they do not easily slide free.
4. Place the C-clamp onto the caliper piston and the back side of the caliper. Open the brake bleed valve (located between the two caliper pin slots) with a 10-mm socket wrench. Place a drip pane beneath the caliper, to catch the brake fluid from the valve.
5. Squeeze the piston into the side of the caliper with the C-clamp. Remove the clamp, once the piston is fully depressed within the caliper, and close the bleed valve with the wrench.
6. Slide the new brake pads onto the sides of the caliper. Place the caliper back onto the rotor and screw in the caliper pins with the wrench. Replace the wheels onto the Contour wheel bolts, and screw on the lug nuts. Lift the car with the jack, and remove the jack stands. Move to the driver's seat.
7. Start the Ford, and press the brake pedal, repeatedly. The depressions force the caliper pistons back into the proper place against the brake pads. Pull the hood release lever, and move to the front of the car.
8. Lift the hood, and remove the master cylinder cap. The cap is situated to the right of the Contour engine. Place a funnel into the reservoir, and fill the container with DOT-3 brake fluid, as needed. Remove the funnel, and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the hood. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Park the Contour on a relatively flat surface. Place tire blocks behind the rear wheels to prevent the car from rolling. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with the lug wrench.
2. Lift the front of the Ford with the lifting jack, and support the front axles with at least two jack stands. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels.
3. Remove the caliper pins with the 10-mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the brake assembly, and slide the two brake pads from each wheel brake caliper. Use a flat screwdriver to pry the clips on the backs of the brake pads from the caliper, if they do not easily slide free.
4. Place the C-clamp onto the caliper piston and the back side of the caliper. Open the brake bleed valve (located between the two caliper pin slots) with a 10-mm socket wrench. Place a drip pane beneath the caliper, to catch the brake fluid from the valve.
5. Squeeze the piston into the side of the caliper with the C-clamp. Remove the clamp, once the piston is fully depressed within the caliper, and close the bleed valve with the wrench.
6. Slide the new brake pads onto the sides of the caliper. Place the caliper back onto the rotor and screw in the caliper pins with the wrench. Replace the wheels onto the Contour wheel bolts, and screw on the lug nuts. Lift the car with the jack, and remove the jack stands. Move to the driver's seat.
7. Start the Ford, and press the brake pedal, repeatedly. The depressions force the caliper pistons back into the proper place against the brake pads. Pull the hood release lever, and move to the front of the car.
8. Lift the hood, and remove the master cylinder cap. The cap is situated to the right of the Contour engine. Place a funnel into the reservoir, and fill the container with DOT-3 brake fluid, as needed. Remove the funnel, and replace the master cylinder cap. Close the hood. Read More »»
Install Brake Pads on a King Quad
Suzuki King Quad is exposed to ever-changing riding conditions while operating in an off-road environment, requiring constant use of the brakes to maintain control at all times. The very nature of this type of riding can drastically reduce the life of the front brake pads, wearing away the pad material until nothing is left. If left to wear away completely, the pads' metal backing plates can wreak havoc on your King Quad's brake rotors, rendering your brake system useless. Some work is involved to replace the brake pads, but the task is straightforward enough to complete on your own.
Procedures:
1. Park the ATV on a level work area and engage the parking brake. Loosen the front wheels' lug nuts with a 17 mm socket attached to a breaker bar.
2. Lift the ATV's front wheels off the ground with a floor jack.
3. Unscrew the front wheel lug nuts completely with a 17 mm socket and a socket wrench. Pull the front wheels off of the front axle hubs.
4. Unscrew the front brake caliper mounting bolts with a 12 mm socket attached to a socket wrench. Lift the brake calipers off of the front brake rotors.
5. Insert a wide, flat head screwdriver into the calipers' openings and between the brake pads. Push the brake pads against the inside of the calipers to depress the caliper pistons.
6. Unscrew the pair of brake pad pins from the rear of the calipers with a 5 mm Allen wrench. Pull the brake pads and their spring clips out of the calipers' opening.
7. Pull the spring clips and metal shims off of the brake pads and place them over a set of new brake pads.
8. Insert the new brake pads into the front brake calipers' opening. Screw the brake pad pins into the calipers to secure the brake pads with the 5 mm Allen wrench.
9. Slide the calipers over the brake rotors and onto their mounting brackets. Screw the caliper mounting bolts into place with the 12 mm socket attached to a socket wrench.
10. Mount the wheels onto the front axle hubs with the 17 mm socket attached to a socket wrench to tighten the lug nuts.
11. Lower the ATV to the ground and remove the floor jack. Pump the front brake lever until it feels firm when pulled, signifying that the brake pads have closed around the brake rotors. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park the ATV on a level work area and engage the parking brake. Loosen the front wheels' lug nuts with a 17 mm socket attached to a breaker bar.
2. Lift the ATV's front wheels off the ground with a floor jack.
3. Unscrew the front wheel lug nuts completely with a 17 mm socket and a socket wrench. Pull the front wheels off of the front axle hubs.
4. Unscrew the front brake caliper mounting bolts with a 12 mm socket attached to a socket wrench. Lift the brake calipers off of the front brake rotors.
5. Insert a wide, flat head screwdriver into the calipers' openings and between the brake pads. Push the brake pads against the inside of the calipers to depress the caliper pistons.
6. Unscrew the pair of brake pad pins from the rear of the calipers with a 5 mm Allen wrench. Pull the brake pads and their spring clips out of the calipers' opening.
7. Pull the spring clips and metal shims off of the brake pads and place them over a set of new brake pads.
8. Insert the new brake pads into the front brake calipers' opening. Screw the brake pad pins into the calipers to secure the brake pads with the 5 mm Allen wrench.
9. Slide the calipers over the brake rotors and onto their mounting brackets. Screw the caliper mounting bolts into place with the 12 mm socket attached to a socket wrench.
10. Mount the wheels onto the front axle hubs with the 17 mm socket attached to a socket wrench to tighten the lug nuts.
11. Lower the ATV to the ground and remove the floor jack. Pump the front brake lever until it feels firm when pulled, signifying that the brake pads have closed around the brake rotors. Read More »»
Replace 2000 Ford Windstar Brake Pads
The brakes on the 2000 Ford Windstar should be inspected regularly. Owners should look for wear and damage to the brake pads and rotors, as well as ensure there is adequate brake fluid in the vehicle, for the brakes to function properly. Ford recommends replacing the brake pads every 50,000 miles. You can choose to have the pads replaced at a brake repair shop, or you can do it yourself to save time and money
Procedure:
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with a lug wrench. Place the jack under the frame at the front of the van, and lift the front tires off the ground. Place jack stands under the axles, and lower the Ford onto the stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels. Remove the two caliper slide bolts on the back side of the right brake caliper, with a 10-mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the brake assembly, and rest it on top of the steering arm, above the brakes.
3. Pry the two brake pads from the caliper bracket with a flat screwdriver. Inspect the caliper bracket slots and rotor for damage or significant wear. Clean the area with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.
4. Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the back side of the new brake pads. Slide the pads into the caliper bracket slots.
5. Open the brake bleed valve with the 10-mm socket wrench. The valve is located between the two caliper slide bolts. Place a drip pane below the brake, to capture the brake fluid.
6. Compress the caliper piston into the side of the caliper with a C-clamp. The piston is the metal cylinder that protrudes from the inside of the caliper. Open the piston to allow for the added space of the new brake pads. Close the brake bleed valve with the wrench.
7. Replace the caliper onto the new brake pads and caliper bracket. Screw in the caliper bolts, and tighten the pins with the wrench. Replace the wheel onto the wheel bolts, and screw on the lug nuts, by hand. Lift the Windstar with the jack, and remove the jack stands. Lower the tires to the ground, and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
8. Lift the Ford Windstar hood, and remove the master cylinder cap. Place a funnel inside the brake fluid reservoir, and add new fluid, as necessary. Remove the funnel, and replace the cap. Close the hood. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with a lug wrench. Place the jack under the frame at the front of the van, and lift the front tires off the ground. Place jack stands under the axles, and lower the Ford onto the stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels. Remove the two caliper slide bolts on the back side of the right brake caliper, with a 10-mm wrench. Lift the caliper from the brake assembly, and rest it on top of the steering arm, above the brakes.
3. Pry the two brake pads from the caliper bracket with a flat screwdriver. Inspect the caliper bracket slots and rotor for damage or significant wear. Clean the area with a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.
4. Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the back side of the new brake pads. Slide the pads into the caliper bracket slots.
5. Open the brake bleed valve with the 10-mm socket wrench. The valve is located between the two caliper slide bolts. Place a drip pane below the brake, to capture the brake fluid.
6. Compress the caliper piston into the side of the caliper with a C-clamp. The piston is the metal cylinder that protrudes from the inside of the caliper. Open the piston to allow for the added space of the new brake pads. Close the brake bleed valve with the wrench.
7. Replace the caliper onto the new brake pads and caliper bracket. Screw in the caliper bolts, and tighten the pins with the wrench. Replace the wheel onto the wheel bolts, and screw on the lug nuts, by hand. Lift the Windstar with the jack, and remove the jack stands. Lower the tires to the ground, and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
8. Lift the Ford Windstar hood, and remove the master cylinder cap. Place a funnel inside the brake fluid reservoir, and add new fluid, as necessary. Remove the funnel, and replace the cap. Close the hood. Read More »»
Replace GMC Brake Rotors
GMC is a manufacturer of trucks and sport utility vehicles. The brake rotors ensure the brake pads have a smooth surface to apply pressure, when the brakes are engaged. A warped rotor will cause the vehicle to vibrate when coming to a stop. Replacement of the rotor will not take long, once the truck is raised
Instructions Procedure:
1. Ensure the truck is parked on a level surface. Set the parking brake, and chock the back wheel.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with a tire tool. Do not remove the lug nuts, until the truck is raised off the ground.
3. Place a jack under the cross member of the front of the truck. Raise the truck high enough to place the jack stands under the front crossmember. Lower the truck on to the jack stands.
4. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel. Take the wheel off, and place it to the side.
5. Locate the caliper, resting on the top of the rotor. Loosen the bolts at the back of the caliper with a socket wrench. Pull the caliper off the back of the rotor, by hand, after the bolts are removed.
6. Pull the brake pads out of the holder by hand. Unbolt the brake pad holder with a socket wrench. Pull the holder off the rotor.
7. Pull the rotor off the hub assembly by hand. Tapping the rotor with a hammer will loosen it, if it is stubborn.
8. Slide the new rotor on to the hub assembly. The rotor will rest on the studs.
9. Bolt the brake pad holder over the rotor with a socket wrench. Insert the brake pads onto the holder.
10. Rest the caliper over the brake pad holder. Tighten the bolts with a socket wrench, to secure it in place.
11. Place the wheel back on to the axle. Repeat steps to replace the remaining rotor.
12. Tighten the wheels, by tightening the lug nuts with a tire tool. Tighten them in a crisscross pattern, to ensure the wheel is tightened correctly.
13. Raise the truck, and remove the jack stands. Lower the truck to the ground.
14. Double check all the lug nuts, to ensure they are all tight. Check both wheels.
15. Test drive the truck, to ensure the truck brakes smoothly and without any vibrations. Read More »»
Instructions Procedure:
1. Ensure the truck is parked on a level surface. Set the parking brake, and chock the back wheel.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels with a tire tool. Do not remove the lug nuts, until the truck is raised off the ground.
3. Place a jack under the cross member of the front of the truck. Raise the truck high enough to place the jack stands under the front crossmember. Lower the truck on to the jack stands.
4. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel. Take the wheel off, and place it to the side.
5. Locate the caliper, resting on the top of the rotor. Loosen the bolts at the back of the caliper with a socket wrench. Pull the caliper off the back of the rotor, by hand, after the bolts are removed.
6. Pull the brake pads out of the holder by hand. Unbolt the brake pad holder with a socket wrench. Pull the holder off the rotor.
7. Pull the rotor off the hub assembly by hand. Tapping the rotor with a hammer will loosen it, if it is stubborn.
8. Slide the new rotor on to the hub assembly. The rotor will rest on the studs.
9. Bolt the brake pad holder over the rotor with a socket wrench. Insert the brake pads onto the holder.
10. Rest the caliper over the brake pad holder. Tighten the bolts with a socket wrench, to secure it in place.
11. Place the wheel back on to the axle. Repeat steps to replace the remaining rotor.
12. Tighten the wheels, by tightening the lug nuts with a tire tool. Tighten them in a crisscross pattern, to ensure the wheel is tightened correctly.
13. Raise the truck, and remove the jack stands. Lower the truck to the ground.
14. Double check all the lug nuts, to ensure they are all tight. Check both wheels.
15. Test drive the truck, to ensure the truck brakes smoothly and without any vibrations. Read More »»
Replace Rear Pads on a Mazda
Replace the rear brakes on the Mazda is not difficult. Disc brakes work by using friction between the brake pads and rotors. Friction wears down the brake pads, and you will have to replace them periodically. Brake pad wear is relative to the amount of use the brakes get. You want to make sure that you inspect the rotors when you change the brake pads. If the rotors are bad, you will need to replace them, or they will only damage your new brake pads.
Procedures:
1. Park the Mazda on a level, paved surface and turn off the engine. Open the engine compartment and siphon about ½ of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Raise the Mazda with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel with a lug wrench and pull the wheel from the car.
2. Loosen the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper in a downward motion and pull it from the brake rotor. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Insert the piston tool into the caliper and twist the handle until the piston seats itself within the caliper housing.
3. Install the new brake pads into the caliper. Insert the shims behind the brake pads. Pivot the caliper upward and onto the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the car and lower it to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid, as needed, to the master cylinder. Pump the brake pedal a few times until the brake pads seat themselves on the rotors and the pedal feels firm. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park the Mazda on a level, paved surface and turn off the engine. Open the engine compartment and siphon about ½ of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Raise the Mazda with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel with a lug wrench and pull the wheel from the car.
2. Loosen the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper in a downward motion and pull it from the brake rotor. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Insert the piston tool into the caliper and twist the handle until the piston seats itself within the caliper housing.
3. Install the new brake pads into the caliper. Insert the shims behind the brake pads. Pivot the caliper upward and onto the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the car and lower it to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid, as needed, to the master cylinder. Pump the brake pedal a few times until the brake pads seat themselves on the rotors and the pedal feels firm. Read More »»
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
How to Change the Brake Pads on a Taurus
The Ford Taurus has a four-wheel disc brake system that consists of a brake master cylinder, brake lines, brake calipers, brake rotors and brake pads. When you hit the brakes, you send a mechanical force into the master cylinder, which in turn sends hydraulic fluid down the brake lines to the brake calipers. The hydraulic pressure contracts the caliper, forcing the pads against the rotors and stopping the Taurus. A byproduct of this action is brake pad wear, which eventually leads to the need to replace the brake pads. People with basic auto-repair skills can change a Taurus' brake pads in about two hours.
Shove the wheel chocks against the front and back of the left-rear tire. 1. Loosen all the Taurus' front lug nuts with the lug wrench.
2. Lift the front of the Taurus with the floor jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the car's front lug nuts and wheels manually.
3. Position the drop pan under the left-front brake assembly. Wash the brake dust off the rotor and caliper with brake cleaner.
4. Remove the Taurus' left-front caliper bolts with the socket set. Lift the caliper from the caliper bracket by hand. Pull the old pads out by hand and throw them away.
5. Wash the inside of the caliper with brake cleaner to remove the brake dust, road dirt and old grease. Lubricate the caliper slides with white lithium grease.
6. Position the Taurus' new brake pads in the caliper by hand. Lower the caliper into the left-front caliper bracket. Bolt it into place using the socket set.
7. Move to the Taurus' right-front brake assembly and repeat steps 3 through 6. Reinstall the wheels and lug nuts by hand.
8. Lower the front end off the jack stands. Tighten the front lug nuts to 85 foot-pounds with your torque wrench. Move the wheel chocks before driving the Taurus. Read More »»
Shove the wheel chocks against the front and back of the left-rear tire. 1. Loosen all the Taurus' front lug nuts with the lug wrench.
2. Lift the front of the Taurus with the floor jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the car's front lug nuts and wheels manually.
3. Position the drop pan under the left-front brake assembly. Wash the brake dust off the rotor and caliper with brake cleaner.
4. Remove the Taurus' left-front caliper bolts with the socket set. Lift the caliper from the caliper bracket by hand. Pull the old pads out by hand and throw them away.
5. Wash the inside of the caliper with brake cleaner to remove the brake dust, road dirt and old grease. Lubricate the caliper slides with white lithium grease.
6. Position the Taurus' new brake pads in the caliper by hand. Lower the caliper into the left-front caliper bracket. Bolt it into place using the socket set.
7. Move to the Taurus' right-front brake assembly and repeat steps 3 through 6. Reinstall the wheels and lug nuts by hand.
8. Lower the front end off the jack stands. Tighten the front lug nuts to 85 foot-pounds with your torque wrench. Move the wheel chocks before driving the Taurus. Read More »»
Why Do Brake Lines Break?
A car's brake lines are needed to carry brake fluid to the brake pads at the car's wheels. Brake lines can break when they become weakened due to corrosion or rust, or from impact, such as in a car crash.
Brake Lines
When you press down on your car's brake pedal, you force brake fluid through the brake lines to a braking unit on each wheel. The fluid causes brake pads to press against the brake rotor, causing it to slow. The front and back wheels have rubber brake lines, because flexibility is required; otherwise, they are made from steel.
Causes of Damage to Rubber Brake Lines
Rubber brake lines deteriorate naturally over time, due to moisture and heat. They can also be corroded by the salt that is spread on icy roads in the winter . If the roads where you live are covered in salt in the winter, it is a good idea to wash your car's underbody regularly, to rinse off the salt and prevent damage to your brake lines.
Causes of Damage to Steel Brake Lines
The steel brake lines in a vehicle will eventually rust and break. Road salt can accelerate this process. As well, the force of impact from a car crash can cause steel brake lines to bend or collapse, which weakens them and renders them susceptible to breakage. If a steel brake line breaks, it is best to replace the complete line rather than trying to patch it. Read More »»
Brake Lines
When you press down on your car's brake pedal, you force brake fluid through the brake lines to a braking unit on each wheel. The fluid causes brake pads to press against the brake rotor, causing it to slow. The front and back wheels have rubber brake lines, because flexibility is required; otherwise, they are made from steel.
Causes of Damage to Rubber Brake Lines
Rubber brake lines deteriorate naturally over time, due to moisture and heat. They can also be corroded by the salt that is spread on icy roads in the winter . If the roads where you live are covered in salt in the winter, it is a good idea to wash your car's underbody regularly, to rinse off the salt and prevent damage to your brake lines.
Causes of Damage to Steel Brake Lines
The steel brake lines in a vehicle will eventually rust and break. Road salt can accelerate this process. As well, the force of impact from a car crash can cause steel brake lines to bend or collapse, which weakens them and renders them susceptible to breakage. If a steel brake line breaks, it is best to replace the complete line rather than trying to patch it. Read More »»
Audi Rear Brake Pads Installation
Brake pads are essential to the safety of your Audi. However, as they wear out, performance will gradually reduce and it will take longer to stop the vehicle. A new set of brake pads will rejuvenate the performance of the braking system and will get rid of any squealing caused by worn-out pads.Installation Procedure:
1. Slightly loosen each lug nut on the Audi's rear wheels, turning them counterclockwise with the wheel nut wrench no more than one full turn each. Doing this will make the nuts easier to remove after the car is jacked up.
2. Park the car and turn off its ignition. Place wheel chocks under the front wheels to prevent the Audi from moving. Position a jack under the center of the rear axle. Lift the car until there is adequate clearance to place jack stands on either side of the jack. Lower the jack until the stands are supporting the Audi's full weight.
3. Unscrew and remove the rear lug nuts. Take the wheel off. Remove the brake caliper by disconnecting the bolts located on the inner-most side. There will be two pads inside the caliper, which press on either side of the rotor while braking. Pry each pad out and set them aside.
4. Open and secure the car's hood. Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. This will allow excess pressure to be released as you depress the caliper piston.
5. Using a "C" clamp on the caliper, carefully compress the piston until it is fully retracted inside the caliper.
6. Insert the replacement brake pads. Make sure the metal tabs are pressed completely inside the hole in the caliper. Reinstall the caliper and tighten the bolts that were previously removed. Follow the same procedure in the previous steps to change the brake pads on the other side of the car.
7. Place the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir. Put the wheels back on and tighten each lug nut. Remove the stands and lower the rear of the Audi. Tighten the lug nuts on the wheels. Read More »»
1. Slightly loosen each lug nut on the Audi's rear wheels, turning them counterclockwise with the wheel nut wrench no more than one full turn each. Doing this will make the nuts easier to remove after the car is jacked up.
2. Park the car and turn off its ignition. Place wheel chocks under the front wheels to prevent the Audi from moving. Position a jack under the center of the rear axle. Lift the car until there is adequate clearance to place jack stands on either side of the jack. Lower the jack until the stands are supporting the Audi's full weight.
3. Unscrew and remove the rear lug nuts. Take the wheel off. Remove the brake caliper by disconnecting the bolts located on the inner-most side. There will be two pads inside the caliper, which press on either side of the rotor while braking. Pry each pad out and set them aside.
4. Open and secure the car's hood. Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. This will allow excess pressure to be released as you depress the caliper piston.
5. Using a "C" clamp on the caliper, carefully compress the piston until it is fully retracted inside the caliper.
6. Insert the replacement brake pads. Make sure the metal tabs are pressed completely inside the hole in the caliper. Reinstall the caliper and tighten the bolts that were previously removed. Follow the same procedure in the previous steps to change the brake pads on the other side of the car.
7. Place the cap back on the brake fluid reservoir. Put the wheels back on and tighten each lug nut. Remove the stands and lower the rear of the Audi. Tighten the lug nuts on the wheels. Read More »»
Change the Front Disc Pads on a 2005 Mitsubishi Galant
The front disc brake pads on the 2005 Mitsubishi Gallant rest inside the brake caliper. As you press on the brake pedal, a piston inside the brake caliper presses on the back of a brake pad inside the caliper. As a result, the pads create pressure on the brake rotor and stop the vehicle. The pads wear out much faster than the brake rotor and when they do wear out, you will hear a chirping sound every time you step on the brake. This means it is time to change the brake pads.Procedure:
1. Open the engine hood and remove the front cap from the master cylinder. The master cylinder is next to the firewall on the driver's side of the engine bay.
2. Loosen but do not remove the lug nuts on the driver's side wheel using the tire iron supplied with the Gallant.
3. Place a jack under the frame, directly behind the driver's side tire, and raise the vehicle high enough to place a jack stand under the frame beside the jack. Lower the Gallant onto the jack stand.
4. Remove the lug nuts using the tire iron and pull the wheel off the wheel studs. Place the wheel to the side.
5. Remove the two bolts that secure the brake caliper to the axle housing and then pull the caliper off the rotor. The brake pads will likely fall out of the caliper. Place the backside brake pad back into the caliper and discard the front side brake pad. You will use the backside brake pad to help push the piston back into the caliper.
6. Place a pair of vice grips over the backside brake pad and the backside of the caliper and squeeze the piston back into the caliper. Discard the old backside brake pad.
7. Place the new brake pads into the caliper. The brake pads rest inside grooved cutouts inside the caliper; they do not bolt into place.
8. Hold the pads in place as you slide the caliper back over the brake rotor.
9. Secure the caliper to the axle housing using the two bolts, socket and ratchet.
10. Place the tire back onto the Gallant an secure it to the wheel by threading the lug nuts onto the wheel studs. Give each lug nut a quarter turn using the tire iron.
11. Raise the Gallant with the jack until you can remove the jack stand. Lower the Gallant to the ground and tighten each lug nut using the tire iron.
12. Complete steps 2 through 11 for the passenger side brake.
13. Place the front cap back onto the master cylinder and close the engine hood. Read More »»
1. Open the engine hood and remove the front cap from the master cylinder. The master cylinder is next to the firewall on the driver's side of the engine bay.
2. Loosen but do not remove the lug nuts on the driver's side wheel using the tire iron supplied with the Gallant.
3. Place a jack under the frame, directly behind the driver's side tire, and raise the vehicle high enough to place a jack stand under the frame beside the jack. Lower the Gallant onto the jack stand.
4. Remove the lug nuts using the tire iron and pull the wheel off the wheel studs. Place the wheel to the side.
5. Remove the two bolts that secure the brake caliper to the axle housing and then pull the caliper off the rotor. The brake pads will likely fall out of the caliper. Place the backside brake pad back into the caliper and discard the front side brake pad. You will use the backside brake pad to help push the piston back into the caliper.
6. Place a pair of vice grips over the backside brake pad and the backside of the caliper and squeeze the piston back into the caliper. Discard the old backside brake pad.
7. Place the new brake pads into the caliper. The brake pads rest inside grooved cutouts inside the caliper; they do not bolt into place.
8. Hold the pads in place as you slide the caliper back over the brake rotor.
9. Secure the caliper to the axle housing using the two bolts, socket and ratchet.
10. Place the tire back onto the Gallant an secure it to the wheel by threading the lug nuts onto the wheel studs. Give each lug nut a quarter turn using the tire iron.
11. Raise the Gallant with the jack until you can remove the jack stand. Lower the Gallant to the ground and tighten each lug nut using the tire iron.
12. Complete steps 2 through 11 for the passenger side brake.
13. Place the front cap back onto the master cylinder and close the engine hood. Read More »»
Monday, November 15, 2010
Floating Brake Rotors Vs. Solid Brake Rotors
Floating brake rotors are made from two pieces of metal instead of one solid piece. Floating brake rotors feature an outer ring that is contacted by the brake pads and an inner ring that attaches to the wheel.
Warping
Brake rotors can be subjected to extreme temperatures. Though the brake rotor is made from materials meant to withstand this temperature, rotors can and do warp. Floating rotors reduce the chances of warping as the outer ring can heat up and expand without impacting the inner ring which stays much cooler as it is not in contact with the brake pads.
Rotor Life
The constant expansion and contraction of the brake rotor will cause the rotor material to weaken and eventually fail. Floating rotors are less impacted by this heat as the outer ring is allowed to expand independent of the inner ring, giving the floating rotors a longer service life than solid rotors.
Cost
Solid brake rotors are much less expensive than floating rotors as they are much simpler to manufacture. Though more expensive to purchase than solid rotors, the longer life of floating rotors may offset their cost over the life of the bike. Read More »»
Warping
Brake rotors can be subjected to extreme temperatures. Though the brake rotor is made from materials meant to withstand this temperature, rotors can and do warp. Floating rotors reduce the chances of warping as the outer ring can heat up and expand without impacting the inner ring which stays much cooler as it is not in contact with the brake pads.
Rotor Life
The constant expansion and contraction of the brake rotor will cause the rotor material to weaken and eventually fail. Floating rotors are less impacted by this heat as the outer ring is allowed to expand independent of the inner ring, giving the floating rotors a longer service life than solid rotors.
Cost
Solid brake rotors are much less expensive than floating rotors as they are much simpler to manufacture. Though more expensive to purchase than solid rotors, the longer life of floating rotors may offset their cost over the life of the bike. Read More »»
How to Replace 2003 Buick Century Disk Brakes
You must check the brake pads and rotors on the Buick Century regularly to ensure they are in good working order. The brake pads wear much faster than the rotors. If you allow them to wear beyond the recommended minimum thickness, they will cause damage to the rotors, which could mean a much more expensive repair. You can complete this project in your driveway and it will take you about 30 minutes to do each wheel
Installation Procedure:
1. Park the car on a level surface and turn of its ignition. Open and secure the engine compartment of the Buick Century and drain about one-half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder, using the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan for later recycling.
2. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Raise the Buick with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench and pull the wheel off the car.
3. Remove the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet to loosen the bolts. Remove the front brake pad. Place the caliper and the back brake pad between the jaws of the C-clamp and spin it until it closes. This will push the caliper piston back in the housing. Loosen the C-clamp and pull the brake pad off the caliper.
4. Install the new brake pads in the caliper. Place the caliper back on the wheel assembly. Tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Place the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
5. Repeat the process on the other wheel. Remove the jack stand from under the Buick. Lower the car to the ground with the car jack.
6. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder, as needed. Pump the brakes several times until the brake pads settle against the brake rotors Read More »»
Installation Procedure:
1. Park the car on a level surface and turn of its ignition. Open and secure the engine compartment of the Buick Century and drain about one-half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder, using the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan for later recycling.
2. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Raise the Buick with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel using the lug wrench and pull the wheel off the car.
3. Remove the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet to loosen the bolts. Remove the front brake pad. Place the caliper and the back brake pad between the jaws of the C-clamp and spin it until it closes. This will push the caliper piston back in the housing. Loosen the C-clamp and pull the brake pad off the caliper.
4. Install the new brake pads in the caliper. Place the caliper back on the wheel assembly. Tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Place the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
5. Repeat the process on the other wheel. Remove the jack stand from under the Buick. Lower the car to the ground with the car jack.
6. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder, as needed. Pump the brakes several times until the brake pads settle against the brake rotors Read More »»
How to Tell If Brake Rotors Need to Be Replaced
If you consider the brake system of your car the first line of defense against accidents, the brake rotors control the action of the brakes. When you step on the brake pedal inside the car, the brake rotors squeeze the brake pads, which in turn makes the wheels stop safely. Knowing when to replace the brake rotors is important to the health of your brake system and the safety of your car.
Procedure to replace Brake Rotors:
1. Listen to the sound coming from your car when using the brakes during a drive. If you hear any scraping or grinding noises when you engage the brakes, inspect the rotors immediately.
2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right or left and park the car. Moving the wheel to the extreme will expose the brake rotor.
3. Locate the rotor behind the wheel. The rotor is shaped like a disc and runs in between the brake pads.
4. Read the writing on the rotor to find the recommended thickness from the manufacturer. The numerical measurement is the minimum thickness at which the rotor can be operated.
5. Measure the thickness of the rotor with a measuring tape. If it is lower than the number written on the rotor, it needs replacing.
Read More »»
Procedure to replace Brake Rotors:
1. Listen to the sound coming from your car when using the brakes during a drive. If you hear any scraping or grinding noises when you engage the brakes, inspect the rotors immediately.
2. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right or left and park the car. Moving the wheel to the extreme will expose the brake rotor.
3. Locate the rotor behind the wheel. The rotor is shaped like a disc and runs in between the brake pads.
4. Read the writing on the rotor to find the recommended thickness from the manufacturer. The numerical measurement is the minimum thickness at which the rotor can be operated.
5. Measure the thickness of the rotor with a measuring tape. If it is lower than the number written on the rotor, it needs replacing.
Read More »»
Replace Shims and Clips on New Rear Brake Pads
Disc brakes work by two brake pads being pressed against a spinning rotor attached to the axle. As the pads press onto the rotor, friction is created, thereby slowing down the rotor and wearing on the pads. This wear forces the brake pads to be replaced regularly over the life of the vehicle. The pads must press evenly on both sides of the rotor to work correctly. Small, stainless shims can be placed in the brake pad tracks to help the pads move evenly, and clips are attached to the brake pads to indicate when they are worn out.
Only 5 steps you need to do:
1. Hold a brake pad in your hand and press the fitting of the clip onto the end of the brake pad's backing. The brake pad clip is J-shaped; the top of the J should be pointed toward the pad portion of the brake pad.
2. Insert the clips for the other brake pads.
3. Use steel wool to clean off any corrosion and dirt in the brake pad tracks of the brake assembly.
4. Press the shims into each of the brake pad tracks so that the shim fits the shape of the brake assembly.
5. Insert the brake pads into the brake pad tracks, on top of the brake shims.
Read More »»
Only 5 steps you need to do:
1. Hold a brake pad in your hand and press the fitting of the clip onto the end of the brake pad's backing. The brake pad clip is J-shaped; the top of the J should be pointed toward the pad portion of the brake pad.
2. Insert the clips for the other brake pads.
3. Use steel wool to clean off any corrosion and dirt in the brake pad tracks of the brake assembly.
4. Press the shims into each of the brake pad tracks so that the shim fits the shape of the brake assembly.
5. Insert the brake pads into the brake pad tracks, on top of the brake shims.
Read More »»
Remove a Volvo 240's Turn Signal Lights
How to Remove a Volvo 240's Turn Signal Lights? State laws require you have working turn signals in your car to let other drivers know your intention. You may want to remove the turn signal lights from your Volvo 240 because of car accident damage, for instance, or you may desire to have old turn light assemblies replaced with new ones. Removing the turn signal lights from your Volvo 240 yourself does not take much time, plus you can save money in labor costs
Below is the instruction procedure:
1. Loosen the Phillips screws of the turn signal lights in your Volvo 240 with a Phillips screwdriver.
2. Remove the bulb lens.
3. Press the bulbs in, and then turn them slightly counterclockwise to remove them from the turn signal assembly. Put the bulbs in a safe location.
4. Unscrew the retainers to the turn signal light assembly. The retainers hold the turn signal in place.
5. Pull out the old turn signal light assembly Read More »»
Below is the instruction procedure:
1. Loosen the Phillips screws of the turn signal lights in your Volvo 240 with a Phillips screwdriver.
2. Remove the bulb lens.
3. Press the bulbs in, and then turn them slightly counterclockwise to remove them from the turn signal assembly. Put the bulbs in a safe location.
4. Unscrew the retainers to the turn signal light assembly. The retainers hold the turn signal in place.
5. Pull out the old turn signal light assembly Read More »»
Replace the Front Brakes on a 1997 Mazda Protege
The front brakes on the Mazda Protégé are easy to replace. You can expect it to take you about 30 minutes to replace the brake on each wheel. When you are replacing the brake pads, it is a good time to inspect the brake rotors for surface damage. Any grooves or other damage on the rotors will need your attention. You can complete this project in your driveway, saving you from paying the labor costs at a repair shop.
Procedure:
1. Place the Mazda on a level surface and turn off the key. Open the engine compartment and drain half of the brake fluid from the brake master cylinder using the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan for proper recycling later. The master cylinder is at the back of the engine compartment on the driver's side.
2. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Protégé. Raise the car up with the jack. Place a jack stand under the Mazda and raise it to the frame of the car. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel with the lug wrench. Pull the wheel off the car.
3. Loosen the bolts on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet and pull it from the mounting bracket. Place the caliper and the back brake pad into the jaws of the C-clamp and turn the handle until the jaws of the C-clamp push the caliper piston back into the caliper housing. Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
4. Place a new set of brake pads into the caliper. Put the caliper on the mounting bracket and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Put the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Mazda. Lower the car to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
5. Add fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder as needed when both wheels are complete. Pump the brakes several times until the pedal feels firm. This will seat the brake pads against the brake rotor. Check the brake fluid to see if you need to add more to the master cylinder. Never add fluid above the "Max" line. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Place the Mazda on a level surface and turn off the key. Open the engine compartment and drain half of the brake fluid from the brake master cylinder using the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan for proper recycling later. The master cylinder is at the back of the engine compartment on the driver's side.
2. Place the wheel chocks behind the rear wheels of the Protégé. Raise the car up with the jack. Place a jack stand under the Mazda and raise it to the frame of the car. Remove the lug nuts from the wheel with the lug wrench. Pull the wheel off the car.
3. Loosen the bolts on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet and pull it from the mounting bracket. Place the caliper and the back brake pad into the jaws of the C-clamp and turn the handle until the jaws of the C-clamp push the caliper piston back into the caliper housing. Remove the brake pads from the caliper.
4. Place a new set of brake pads into the caliper. Put the caliper on the mounting bracket and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Put the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the Mazda. Lower the car to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
5. Add fresh brake fluid to the master cylinder as needed when both wheels are complete. Pump the brakes several times until the pedal feels firm. This will seat the brake pads against the brake rotor. Check the brake fluid to see if you need to add more to the master cylinder. Never add fluid above the "Max" line. Read More »»
Replace the Rear Disc Brakes on a 1991 Nissan 240SX
How to Replace the Rear Disc Brakes on a 1991 Nissan 240SX? The 1991 Nissan 240SX is equipped with front and rear disc brakes. Disc brakes use two pads pressing on a flat rotor, often called the disc, to create friction. The friction stops the car, but it also causes the pads to wear, and, eventually, you will need to replace them. How long the pads last depends on how you drive the car. When the pads get thin, a piece of metal will contact the rotor when you depress the brake pedal, and you will hear a high-pitch squeal.
1. Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels. Ensure the parking brake is released.
2. Raise the vehicle, using the automotive jack, and support both sides with a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts, and take off both wheels.
3. Place a drip pan under the brake assembly, and saturate all brake components with brake cleaner. This will remove the harmful brake dust that accumulates on the brake assembly. Allow the parts to dry.
4. Use a wrench or socket to remove the parking brake cable stay fixing bolt. The bolt is on the bottom, back side of the brake cylinder body.
5. Use a wrench or socket to remove the lower cylinder body pin bolt. This bolt is directly below the cable stay fixing bolt you removed in Step 4.
6. Rotate the cylinder housing up and off the rotor.
7. Remove the pad retainers that hold the inner and outer pads in the housing, and remove both pads and shims. The retainers are flat, metal clips on each end of the pads.
8. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to turn the piston clockwise, screwing it back into the housing. This is to provide room for the new pads, since they will be thicker than the old ones.
9. Apply a coat of high-temperature grease to the rear of both pads. Place the new shims on the back of the pads, and apply a coat of grease to the shims. The new pads should come with a small tube of this grease.
10. Insert the pads back into the housing, and secure them in place with the pad retainers.
11. Rotate the housing back down onto the rotor.
12. Replace the lower pin bolt, and tighten it to between 16 and 23 ft-lbs. of torque, using a torque wrench.
13. Reattach the parking brake cable stay, and tighten the fixing bolt to between 20 and 27 ft-lbs. of torque.
14. Ensure there is no grease or oil on the brake rotor. If there is, clean the rotor with brake cleaner. Repeat the procedure to replace the pads on the opposite side of the car.
15. Replace both wheels and lug nuts. Lower the car, and tighten the lug nuts Read More »»
1. Loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels. Ensure the parking brake is released.
2. Raise the vehicle, using the automotive jack, and support both sides with a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts, and take off both wheels.
3. Place a drip pan under the brake assembly, and saturate all brake components with brake cleaner. This will remove the harmful brake dust that accumulates on the brake assembly. Allow the parts to dry.
4. Use a wrench or socket to remove the parking brake cable stay fixing bolt. The bolt is on the bottom, back side of the brake cylinder body.
5. Use a wrench or socket to remove the lower cylinder body pin bolt. This bolt is directly below the cable stay fixing bolt you removed in Step 4.
6. Rotate the cylinder housing up and off the rotor.
7. Remove the pad retainers that hold the inner and outer pads in the housing, and remove both pads and shims. The retainers are flat, metal clips on each end of the pads.
8. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to turn the piston clockwise, screwing it back into the housing. This is to provide room for the new pads, since they will be thicker than the old ones.
9. Apply a coat of high-temperature grease to the rear of both pads. Place the new shims on the back of the pads, and apply a coat of grease to the shims. The new pads should come with a small tube of this grease.
10. Insert the pads back into the housing, and secure them in place with the pad retainers.
11. Rotate the housing back down onto the rotor.
12. Replace the lower pin bolt, and tighten it to between 16 and 23 ft-lbs. of torque, using a torque wrench.
13. Reattach the parking brake cable stay, and tighten the fixing bolt to between 20 and 27 ft-lbs. of torque.
14. Ensure there is no grease or oil on the brake rotor. If there is, clean the rotor with brake cleaner. Repeat the procedure to replace the pads on the opposite side of the car.
15. Replace both wheels and lug nuts. Lower the car, and tighten the lug nuts Read More »»
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)