Cummins engines have had problems, especially the 1999, 2000 and 2001 models. In these years, the Cummins 5.9-liter engine was prone to cracks in the side block. According to Lock-N-Stitch, Inc. there was no recall of the engine. Cracks in the engine caused by thermal expansion stress decreased the flow of coolant. Essentially, the design of the engine restricted the flow of coolant to the cylinders, cylinder head, and lower walls and outer walls of the engine block. Engage in a routine troubleshooting schedule if you own a vehicle with a Cummins engine.
Procedures:
1. Look for white smoke coming from the tail pipe. White smoke indicates that the coolant and the oil have mixed in the engine.
2. Check the color and consistency of the oil in the Cummins engine. If the oil is thick, milky and light brown in color, then the engine is blown.
3. Listen to the sound of the engine as it fires up. Oil fouled spark plugs can cause a misfire sound. Worn pistons cause a rapid ticking sound.
4. Tune up the engine if it is smoking and running rough, but run a cylinder balance test beforehand. If the cylinders are not running correctly, a tune up won't help the problem. A cylinder balance test determines if the cylinders in the engine are producing equal amounts of power. Use an engine analyzer, attach the cables to the spark plug, push the button on the analyzer and the spark plug will short out. Print out the engine speed reading. If the engine speed changes, there is an issue with the cylinder. This test also will determine which cylinders have bad valves and compression rings.
5. Conduct an engine misfire test. Misfire codes are in the P0300 range. Random misfire is a PO300 code. This test determines if an individual cylinder is not firing. A P0301 code is a misfire of cylinder 1 and a P0308 is a misfire in cylinder 8. The engine analyzer is a handheld device that attaches to the diagnostic harness of the vehicle's computerized system. The vehicle will run rough, lack acceleration power and get poor gas mileage.
6. Attach the engine analyzer to the diagnostic harness of the vehicle's computerized system to determine if there is a secondary ignition failure. From the secondary ignition pattern print-out, you can read where the vehicle is having air/fuel issues and mechanical faults. If it indicates a problem, you may need to replace the ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and/or rotor. Get a secondary ignition pattern from the dealership showing how the engine needs to fire. Compare your reading to that of a normal secondary ignition pattern to determine if the engine is firing correctly at the point of turning the engine over.
Read More »»
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
Remove a Motorcycle Cylinder Head
Motorcycles are high-compression, high-revving engines that typically do not last as long as automobile engines. You can expect to rebuild your motorcycle's engine at about 100,000 miles or less, depending on the size of the engine. For a top-end overhaul, you would remove the cylinder head and replace the pistons, rods and rings.
Procedures:
1. Remove the four bolts that secure the rocker cover to the top of the cylinder head. In some cases, the bolts require a 16-point socket. This is common in Harley-Davidson Evolution engines. Most other motors will require a standard hex-head socket. Pull the rocker cover off of the valve box.
2. Remove the four nuts that secure the valve box to the cylinder head with a socket and ratchet. Pull the valve box off of the cylinder head.
3. Remove the two bolts on the cylinder head that secure the intake manifold. This typically requires a hex-head socket, but in some cases, the heads on the bolts might require an Allen wrench.
4. Pull straight up on the cylinder head to remove it from the crankcase. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Remove the four bolts that secure the rocker cover to the top of the cylinder head. In some cases, the bolts require a 16-point socket. This is common in Harley-Davidson Evolution engines. Most other motors will require a standard hex-head socket. Pull the rocker cover off of the valve box.
2. Remove the four nuts that secure the valve box to the cylinder head with a socket and ratchet. Pull the valve box off of the cylinder head.
3. Remove the two bolts on the cylinder head that secure the intake manifold. This typically requires a hex-head socket, but in some cases, the heads on the bolts might require an Allen wrench.
4. Pull straight up on the cylinder head to remove it from the crankcase. Read More »»
Find an Oil Leak on the 1995 Camry
The oil in your 1995 Camry's engine serves two main purposes. The first is to ensure that all the engine's working and moving parts are lubricated to reduce friction and wear. The second is to keep certain parts of the engine cool and prevent overheating. If a leak is draining oil from the system, your Camry's engine could seize. It is important to locate the source of the oil leak and repair it.
Procedures:
1. Open the hood of your Toyota Camry. Locate the oil cap on the engine, and then open the cap. The oil cap is found on the valve cover.
2. Pour the ultraviolet dye into the oil crankcase of the Camry. Start the engine, and allow it to run for about 10 minutes. Take the Camry for a short drive around the block. This will help the dye circulate through the engine.
3. Use a jack to lift up the front end of the Camry. Use jack stands to support the front end of the frame. Use the jack to raise up the rear end. Use jack stands to support the rear frame. Leave the engine of the vehicle running while it is on the jack stands.
4. Put on your ultraviolet glasses; crawl beneath your Camry. Scan the underneath with an ultraviolet flashlight to try and locate the source of the leak. Look for any area that might be leaking a bright-yellow liquid. This will be the source of the leak, as the dye you poured into the oil crankshaft will show up under the UV flashlight. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Open the hood of your Toyota Camry. Locate the oil cap on the engine, and then open the cap. The oil cap is found on the valve cover.
2. Pour the ultraviolet dye into the oil crankcase of the Camry. Start the engine, and allow it to run for about 10 minutes. Take the Camry for a short drive around the block. This will help the dye circulate through the engine.
3. Use a jack to lift up the front end of the Camry. Use jack stands to support the front end of the frame. Use the jack to raise up the rear end. Use jack stands to support the rear frame. Leave the engine of the vehicle running while it is on the jack stands.
4. Put on your ultraviolet glasses; crawl beneath your Camry. Scan the underneath with an ultraviolet flashlight to try and locate the source of the leak. Look for any area that might be leaking a bright-yellow liquid. This will be the source of the leak, as the dye you poured into the oil crankshaft will show up under the UV flashlight. Read More »»
Take Off VW Bug Emblems
Volkswagon (VW) Beetles, or Bugs, are iconic cars that carry the VW emblem on both the front hood and hatchback. The emblem is silver and black in the U.S. or blue-on-white in Europe. Removing the emblem is necessary prior to repainting the VW bug. Aftermarket body refinishers or car art enthusiasts can also remove the emblem to replace with a design creation or emblem of their own. A few simple tools are all it takes to remove the emblem.
Procedures:
1. Wrap the flat head screwdriver with electrical tape to prevent damage to the paint. Slip the screw driver behind the front emblem and pry carefully from the hood. The emblem is glued to the hood.
2. Remove residue from the hood with adhesive remover. Add adhesive remover to the shop towels and rub gently until the adhesive residue removes.
3. Open the hatchback. Remove the screws from inside the handle. Remove the cover that the screws held in. Pull off the wiring harnesses and let them hang. Snip off tie wrap. Clip the long rod that connects the white bell crank to the hatch lock. Unscrew the three screws that hold in a strange black metal bracket. Remove the bracket.
4. Unscrew the three 6mm star bolts with the 6mm star tool. Pull out the base and carrier. Remove the e-clip connected to the emblem. Remove the emblem from the outside of the hatchback. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Wrap the flat head screwdriver with electrical tape to prevent damage to the paint. Slip the screw driver behind the front emblem and pry carefully from the hood. The emblem is glued to the hood.
2. Remove residue from the hood with adhesive remover. Add adhesive remover to the shop towels and rub gently until the adhesive residue removes.
3. Open the hatchback. Remove the screws from inside the handle. Remove the cover that the screws held in. Pull off the wiring harnesses and let them hang. Snip off tie wrap. Clip the long rod that connects the white bell crank to the hatch lock. Unscrew the three screws that hold in a strange black metal bracket. Remove the bracket.
4. Unscrew the three 6mm star bolts with the 6mm star tool. Pull out the base and carrier. Remove the e-clip connected to the emblem. Remove the emblem from the outside of the hatchback. Read More »»
Monday, December 27, 2010
Chevrolet Colorado Engine Problems
The Chevrolet Colorado is a mid-sized pickup truck first released in 2004. The Chevy Colorado features numerous engine options that range in size from 2.8-liters to 5.3-liters. Engine problems are common with specific models and may occur if Chevrolet suggested maintenance isn't followed.
2004-05 Engine Misfire
According to Consumer Guide Automotive, the 2004 and 2005 Chevy Colorado are known to misfire. An illuminated check-engine light will accompany the misfiring engine. The misfiring is caused by compromised exhaust valve springs. Replacing the exhaust valve springs will fix the problem.
2004-06 Fuel Gauge Issue
The 2004, 2005 and 2006 Colorado fuel gauge sensor and indicator are known to misread fuel levels. If the engine does not turn on and the fuel gauge reads full, the tank may actually be empty of gas. Models known for this problem include all California models and those with a 4-cylinder or 5-cylinder engine.
Suggested Maintenance
The 2009 Chevrolet Colorado owner manual suggests an exhaust system inspection every 25,000 miles. After reaching 100,000 miles, spark plug replacement is suggested. Inspection of the engine accessory drive belt is suggested at 150,000 miles. Read More »»
2004-05 Engine Misfire
According to Consumer Guide Automotive, the 2004 and 2005 Chevy Colorado are known to misfire. An illuminated check-engine light will accompany the misfiring engine. The misfiring is caused by compromised exhaust valve springs. Replacing the exhaust valve springs will fix the problem.
2004-06 Fuel Gauge Issue
The 2004, 2005 and 2006 Colorado fuel gauge sensor and indicator are known to misread fuel levels. If the engine does not turn on and the fuel gauge reads full, the tank may actually be empty of gas. Models known for this problem include all California models and those with a 4-cylinder or 5-cylinder engine.
Suggested Maintenance
The 2009 Chevrolet Colorado owner manual suggests an exhaust system inspection every 25,000 miles. After reaching 100,000 miles, spark plug replacement is suggested. Inspection of the engine accessory drive belt is suggested at 150,000 miles. Read More »»
Features of 1936 Chevy Master Coupe
Chevrolet produced more than 918,000 vehicles in 1936. The 1936 Chevrolet, which became a renowned collector's car, originally appeared in two body styles --- the Standard and Master DeLuxe. Each trim had its own small variations, such as the wheelbases. Though the majority of 1936 Chevy Master Coupe owners have upgraded the vehicles using contemporary parts and "mods," collectors continue to cherish its classic exterior.
Specifications
The 1936 Chevy came with a three-speed manual transmission, fairly standard for its time. The Master Deluxe represented an upgrade on the 1936 Standard Chevy, with its wheelbase of 109 inches on all its styles. The four-by-two, rear-wheel drive, front-motor vehicle had a 113-inch wheelbase.
Original Price
The Master DeLuxe cost $560 as a base price in its day. It came in coach, coupe, cabriolet, sedan, sport sedan and town sedan versions. The most expensive trim at the time was the four-door, five-passenger Sport Sedan, which weighed 3,080 lbs. and cost $665.
Standard Vs. Master DeLuxe
Chevrolet produced approximately 280,000 Master DeLuxe models --- more than it did of the Standard. Though Chevy built only 220,000, Standard models proved more popular at the time, and the two-door, five passenger Town Sedan sold best at $535. In 2010, an unaltered 1936 Master Deluxe sells for about $18,500.
Colors
The car comes in colors with names that evoke the high-end lifestyles of the period, many of which sound anachronistic as of 2010: Regent Maroon, Cranbrook Gray, Willow Green, Navy Blue, Cabana Cream, Kingswood Gray, Beaver Brown, Taupe Metallic, Hollywood Tan, Frosty Green and Regatta Red. Read More »»
Specifications
The 1936 Chevy came with a three-speed manual transmission, fairly standard for its time. The Master Deluxe represented an upgrade on the 1936 Standard Chevy, with its wheelbase of 109 inches on all its styles. The four-by-two, rear-wheel drive, front-motor vehicle had a 113-inch wheelbase.
Original Price
The Master DeLuxe cost $560 as a base price in its day. It came in coach, coupe, cabriolet, sedan, sport sedan and town sedan versions. The most expensive trim at the time was the four-door, five-passenger Sport Sedan, which weighed 3,080 lbs. and cost $665.
Standard Vs. Master DeLuxe
Chevrolet produced approximately 280,000 Master DeLuxe models --- more than it did of the Standard. Though Chevy built only 220,000, Standard models proved more popular at the time, and the two-door, five passenger Town Sedan sold best at $535. In 2010, an unaltered 1936 Master Deluxe sells for about $18,500.
Colors
The car comes in colors with names that evoke the high-end lifestyles of the period, many of which sound anachronistic as of 2010: Regent Maroon, Cranbrook Gray, Willow Green, Navy Blue, Cabana Cream, Kingswood Gray, Beaver Brown, Taupe Metallic, Hollywood Tan, Frosty Green and Regatta Red. Read More »»
Information on Chevy 2 Nova Six Cylinder Engines
The Chevy II Nova was a mid-sized economy car introduced by the Chevrolet Division of General Motors in 1962. By 1965 the Nova was developed into a V8 powered muscle car. Throughout its production the Chevy II Nova was available with a fuel-efficient six-cylinder engine.
194 Hi-Thrift
The 1962 Chevy II Nova used a Hi-Thrift in-line six-cylinder engine with wedge shaped combustion chambers. It displaced 194.37 cubic-inches and produced 120 horsepower with 177 ft-lbs of torque. The motor ran on regular gasoline and used a single-barrel Rochester carburetor. It was descended from the stovebolt 194, GM's first straight-six engine introduced in 1929.
230 Turbo-Thrift
By 1964 the Chevy II Nova was available with a 230 cubic-inch Turbo-Thrift straight-six engine. The overhead valve motor had a cast iron alloy block with hydraulic valve lifters. GM developed the engine from the earlier 235 six-cylinder by decreasing its stroke to 3.25 inches. The 230 generated 140 horsepower with 220 ft-lbs of torque.
250 Turbo-Thrift
By 1969, Chevy Novas could be bought with a Turbo-Thrift 250 cubic-inch straight six engine. The third-generation engine was naturally aspirated and used a Rochester downdraft one-barrel carburetor. It produced 145 horsepower with 230 ft-lbs of torque. The crankshaft rode on seven main-bearings. The engine had a distributor and coil ignition system. Read More »»
194 Hi-Thrift
The 1962 Chevy II Nova used a Hi-Thrift in-line six-cylinder engine with wedge shaped combustion chambers. It displaced 194.37 cubic-inches and produced 120 horsepower with 177 ft-lbs of torque. The motor ran on regular gasoline and used a single-barrel Rochester carburetor. It was descended from the stovebolt 194, GM's first straight-six engine introduced in 1929.
230 Turbo-Thrift
By 1964 the Chevy II Nova was available with a 230 cubic-inch Turbo-Thrift straight-six engine. The overhead valve motor had a cast iron alloy block with hydraulic valve lifters. GM developed the engine from the earlier 235 six-cylinder by decreasing its stroke to 3.25 inches. The 230 generated 140 horsepower with 220 ft-lbs of torque.
250 Turbo-Thrift
By 1969, Chevy Novas could be bought with a Turbo-Thrift 250 cubic-inch straight six engine. The third-generation engine was naturally aspirated and used a Rochester downdraft one-barrel carburetor. It produced 145 horsepower with 230 ft-lbs of torque. The crankshaft rode on seven main-bearings. The engine had a distributor and coil ignition system. Read More »»
Port & Polish SBC Heads
The relationship between cylinder head airflow and horsepower is very nearly linear. You can replace the intake manifold, exhaust and camshafts, but ultimately, airflow through head determines engine power. Only replacing or re-working the cylinder head will allow your engine to reach its ultimate potential.
Procedures:
1. Lay an old intake manifold gasket over your head's intake manifold mounting surface, then spray the assembly with a very light coat of white spray paint. When you remove the gasket you'll find a white ring around the port, which indicates the size of the ridge between the head intake port and manifold runners. Remove the area covered with white paint, and smooth the ridge to about an inch into your intake port. This gasket-matching procedure is fairly simple, and is the only one that you can perform with the head still on the car. If you're gasket-matching without removing the head, stuff a rag into your intake port with a dowel rod to keep metal shavings out of the cylinders. Just don't forget to remove it.
2. Repeat the gasket-matching procedure on the exhaust ports, but leave a 1/8-inch of white-painted material around the port. This step effectively forms an expansion chamber in the exhaust manifold, which creates a slight vacuum to pull expanding gases out of the cylinder.
3. Smooth the bowl area, which is the pocket behind the valve head. The bowl area contains an approximately 1/16-inch-wide ridge where the valve seat mates to the head. This ridge is a huge disruption to airflow, especially at low valve lifts where the airflow must stick close to the bowl wall to go into the cylinder. Run a cylindrical carbide cutter bit or grinding stone around the inside of the bowl area to blend the valve seat into the head. Do not polish this area completely smooth; the slight roughness in the bowl area will create a small amount of turbulence to keep fuel atomized as it enters the cylinder.
4. Remove between 3/16 an 1/8-inch material from the apex of the short-side turn, where the port starts to bend down toward the valve. Then, smooth the removed area about an inch and a half into the floor of port toward the intake port entrance. Smooth the short-side turn into the bowl area in a likewise manner, and repeat on the exhaust side. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Lay an old intake manifold gasket over your head's intake manifold mounting surface, then spray the assembly with a very light coat of white spray paint. When you remove the gasket you'll find a white ring around the port, which indicates the size of the ridge between the head intake port and manifold runners. Remove the area covered with white paint, and smooth the ridge to about an inch into your intake port. This gasket-matching procedure is fairly simple, and is the only one that you can perform with the head still on the car. If you're gasket-matching without removing the head, stuff a rag into your intake port with a dowel rod to keep metal shavings out of the cylinders. Just don't forget to remove it.
2. Repeat the gasket-matching procedure on the exhaust ports, but leave a 1/8-inch of white-painted material around the port. This step effectively forms an expansion chamber in the exhaust manifold, which creates a slight vacuum to pull expanding gases out of the cylinder.
3. Smooth the bowl area, which is the pocket behind the valve head. The bowl area contains an approximately 1/16-inch-wide ridge where the valve seat mates to the head. This ridge is a huge disruption to airflow, especially at low valve lifts where the airflow must stick close to the bowl wall to go into the cylinder. Run a cylindrical carbide cutter bit or grinding stone around the inside of the bowl area to blend the valve seat into the head. Do not polish this area completely smooth; the slight roughness in the bowl area will create a small amount of turbulence to keep fuel atomized as it enters the cylinder.
4. Remove between 3/16 an 1/8-inch material from the apex of the short-side turn, where the port starts to bend down toward the valve. Then, smooth the removed area about an inch and a half into the floor of port toward the intake port entrance. Smooth the short-side turn into the bowl area in a likewise manner, and repeat on the exhaust side. Read More »»
Sebring Convertible Stalling Problems
Chrysler Sebring Convertibles are reliable vehicles but they reportedly can develop stalling problems at around 90,000 miles. After the car has stalled and the driver waits a few moments, the Sebring can start again and run well. This is a problem that can be difficult to diagnose. The problem is related to the flow of gasoline to the engine, possibly involving the fuel pump, according to Edmunds.com.
Check the Fuel Pump
Check to see if the fuel pump is functioning correctly. If the engine is starved for gas, it will stall.
Cause of the Stalling
Look for corrosion on the outside of the fuel tank. If the tank is corroded, pieces of metal can flake off the interior of the tank and clog the intake to the fuel pump. This debris and the resulting blockage can starve the engine of gas and will cause your Sebring to stall.
Solution to Stalling Problems
Replace the fuel pump if it is not functioning correctly. Check the fuel filter for blockage from debris as a result of fuel tank corrosion. If the intake is clogged with debris, the fuel line must be flushed and a new gas tank installed. Read More »»
Check the Fuel Pump
Check to see if the fuel pump is functioning correctly. If the engine is starved for gas, it will stall.
Cause of the Stalling
Look for corrosion on the outside of the fuel tank. If the tank is corroded, pieces of metal can flake off the interior of the tank and clog the intake to the fuel pump. This debris and the resulting blockage can starve the engine of gas and will cause your Sebring to stall.
Solution to Stalling Problems
Replace the fuel pump if it is not functioning correctly. Check the fuel filter for blockage from debris as a result of fuel tank corrosion. If the intake is clogged with debris, the fuel line must be flushed and a new gas tank installed. Read More »»
Friday, December 24, 2010
Change a Dipstick Tube
The dipstick tube is what holds the dipstick -- a metal rod that measures the amount of fluid inside the vehicle -- in place. You can usually find the tube near the engine block. If you need to replace the dipstick tube because of normal wear, breakage or rust development, you can complete the process easily with a little automotive knowledge and items that can be found around your home. Doing the job yourself instead of taking your car to an automotive repair center will save you time and money.
Procedures:
1. Make sure your car is parked and the engine is cool. Open the hood to access the engine.
2. Find the dipstick. Look for a large ring that you pull to take the dipstick out of the tube, usually located in the engine well around the exhaust manifold.
3. Unscrew the bolts that are on the bracket on the dipstick tube with a wrench. Slide the bracket off of the tube.
4. Pull the ring and remove the dipstick from the tube. Find the clips that are connecting the tube to the oil container below it.
5. Release the clips by pressing them both down simultaneously. Use a small piece of plastic or another small item to hold the clips open. Wedge the plastic in between the clips.
6. Fill the tube with paper towels, tissues or napkins to catch any small parts that might fall through. Grip the tube and pull the tube up with pliers. Do not pull too hard, but continue until the tube is released.
7. Place the new tube into the car. Make sure it is in the same position as the old dipstick tube. Snap the clips firmly into place.
8. Replace the bracket and bolts with a wrench. Turn the bolts until they are snug. Put the dipstick back into the new tube. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Make sure your car is parked and the engine is cool. Open the hood to access the engine.
2. Find the dipstick. Look for a large ring that you pull to take the dipstick out of the tube, usually located in the engine well around the exhaust manifold.
3. Unscrew the bolts that are on the bracket on the dipstick tube with a wrench. Slide the bracket off of the tube.
4. Pull the ring and remove the dipstick from the tube. Find the clips that are connecting the tube to the oil container below it.
5. Release the clips by pressing them both down simultaneously. Use a small piece of plastic or another small item to hold the clips open. Wedge the plastic in between the clips.
6. Fill the tube with paper towels, tissues or napkins to catch any small parts that might fall through. Grip the tube and pull the tube up with pliers. Do not pull too hard, but continue until the tube is released.
7. Place the new tube into the car. Make sure it is in the same position as the old dipstick tube. Snap the clips firmly into place.
8. Replace the bracket and bolts with a wrench. Turn the bolts until they are snug. Put the dipstick back into the new tube. Read More »»
Replace the Valve Cover Gasket on the 1998 Toyota Camry
Replace the valve cover gasket on the 1998 Toyota Camry as soon as you notice it leaking. There are several types of engines used in the 1998 Camry. In some of them, you must remove the spark plug wires and plugs to get the valve cover off. The valve cover gasket kit should come with new grommets for the spark plug holes -- if not, purchase new grommets separately. Do not rely on the old grommets, as oil could leak onto the spark plugs and affect the running of the vehicle.
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, using the appropriate wrench. Set it aside, ensuring that it does not touch metal. Mark any wiring connectors and vacuum lines that are attached to the valve cover. Unplug the connectors and vacuum lines. They will vary for the different engines in the 1998 Camry.
2. Pull the PCV hose out of the valve cover to disconnect it. If your particular engine has the spark plugs through the valve cover, mark the spark plug wires. Remove the wires, then remove the plugs, using the spark plug socket, ratchet and 6-inch extension.
3. Remove the six nuts and seal washers from the cover, starting with the middle valve cover-retaining bolts and working in a crisscross pattern. Remove the valve cover. If it doesn't come off easily, don't pry it off -- tap it with the rubber mallet to break the seal.
4. Clean the gasket-mounting surfaces of the valve cover and the head, using the brush and rags. Remove all old gasket material. Spread a thin layer of RTV silicone on the valve cover's mounting surface. Fit the gasket onto the valve cover and press it into the RTV. If the engine has spark plug wires that go through the valve cover, remove the old grommets on the spark plug holes and insert new ones.
5. Install the valve cover and tighten the six nuts to 65 inch-pounds of torque, working from the center out, in a crisscross pattern. If you removed the plugs and wires, reinstall them, ensuring that the wires go into the proper spark plug hole, as marked before you took them off. Reconnect the PCV hose and all wiring connectors and vacuum lines. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, using the appropriate wrench. Set it aside, ensuring that it does not touch metal. Mark any wiring connectors and vacuum lines that are attached to the valve cover. Unplug the connectors and vacuum lines. They will vary for the different engines in the 1998 Camry.
2. Pull the PCV hose out of the valve cover to disconnect it. If your particular engine has the spark plugs through the valve cover, mark the spark plug wires. Remove the wires, then remove the plugs, using the spark plug socket, ratchet and 6-inch extension.
3. Remove the six nuts and seal washers from the cover, starting with the middle valve cover-retaining bolts and working in a crisscross pattern. Remove the valve cover. If it doesn't come off easily, don't pry it off -- tap it with the rubber mallet to break the seal.
4. Clean the gasket-mounting surfaces of the valve cover and the head, using the brush and rags. Remove all old gasket material. Spread a thin layer of RTV silicone on the valve cover's mounting surface. Fit the gasket onto the valve cover and press it into the RTV. If the engine has spark plug wires that go through the valve cover, remove the old grommets on the spark plug holes and insert new ones.
5. Install the valve cover and tighten the six nuts to 65 inch-pounds of torque, working from the center out, in a crisscross pattern. If you removed the plugs and wires, reinstall them, ensuring that the wires go into the proper spark plug hole, as marked before you took them off. Reconnect the PCV hose and all wiring connectors and vacuum lines. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Read More »»
Install a 2001 Ford Taurus Valve Cover Gasket
The Ford Taurus engine uses two different methods to seal the valve cover to the engine head. Some models use a pre-cured reusable gasket, while other models use silicone sealant to form a bead of sealing material. On models that are equipped with plastic valve covers, either the silicone or gasket may be used; on models that have aluminum valve covers, silicone must be used. Use the type of gasket material that originally was used by the factory on your engine
Procedures:
1. Unhook the negative battery clamp; this is the one with the (-) on it.
2. Remove any hoses or wires that are on top of the valve cover. Label them so you can put them back in the right location.
3. Remove the valve cover bolts by using the wrench to turn them counterclockwise. Remove the valve cover from the engine. Scrape off any old gasket material with the scraper.
4. Install the new gasket or new silicone sealer and allow it to dry for a few minutes. Put the valve cover back on the engine.
5. Tighten the valve cover bolts by turning them clockwise with the wrench. Replace the wires and hoses. Connect the negative battery clamp and start the engine checking for leaks. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Unhook the negative battery clamp; this is the one with the (-) on it.
2. Remove any hoses or wires that are on top of the valve cover. Label them so you can put them back in the right location.
3. Remove the valve cover bolts by using the wrench to turn them counterclockwise. Remove the valve cover from the engine. Scrape off any old gasket material with the scraper.
4. Install the new gasket or new silicone sealer and allow it to dry for a few minutes. Put the valve cover back on the engine.
5. Tighten the valve cover bolts by turning them clockwise with the wrench. Replace the wires and hoses. Connect the negative battery clamp and start the engine checking for leaks. Read More »»
Troubleshoot a Blown Head Gasket with No Signs
Blown head gaskets are expensive repairs, and are most often caused by an overheated engine. Some compact engine designs, however, are prone to head gasket failure under normal operating conditions. These are generally four-cylinder engines that have higher compression, aggressive fuel injection systems and are geared towards performance. These modifications stress the engine integrity and a common failure point is the head gasket, because the gasket is unable to contain the added boost inside of the cylinders.
Procedures:
1. Raise the hood of the car and use a socket wrench to remove all the spark plugs. Label the wires with masking tape if necessary to orient the wires for reinstallation.
2. Screw in a compression gauge in one of the cylinders. Have an assistant crank the engine over and read the gauge. Note the reading and compare it to the manufacturer's specifications. Small engines that are geared for performance will read as high as 150 pounds per square inch (psi).
3. Continue this process with each cylinder. Two adjacent cylinders with a blown head gasket will share the same, low reading number, and may not reach 100 psi. If the readings are as low as 125 psi on a small, performance engine, the engine won't run. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Raise the hood of the car and use a socket wrench to remove all the spark plugs. Label the wires with masking tape if necessary to orient the wires for reinstallation.
2. Screw in a compression gauge in one of the cylinders. Have an assistant crank the engine over and read the gauge. Note the reading and compare it to the manufacturer's specifications. Small engines that are geared for performance will read as high as 150 pounds per square inch (psi).
3. Continue this process with each cylinder. Two adjacent cylinders with a blown head gasket will share the same, low reading number, and may not reach 100 psi. If the readings are as low as 125 psi on a small, performance engine, the engine won't run. Read More »»
Remove the Exhaust Manifold Gasket on a Buick LeSabre
An exhaust leak can be frustrating. While exhaust leaks are often difficult to identify, worn exhaust manifold gaskets are often the problem. Removing worn exhaust manifold gaskets and replacing them with new gaskets on a Buick LeSabre is a small, inexpensive project for a do-it-yourself mechanic. With a few tools and a bit of time, you can remove failing exhaust manifold gaskets and replace them with new gaskets to increase the performance of your Buick LeSabre.
Procedures:
1. Allow the engine and exhaust manifold to completely cool.
2. Disconnect any tubing from the exhaust manifold.
3. Loosen and remove the exhaust manifold bolts. If the bolts are resistant, use a penetrating oil to loosen them.
4. Remove the exhaust manifold and gaskets from the engine. The exhaust manifold in a Buick LeSabre is typically secured with two studs and two nuts.
5. Clean the gasket areas on both the engine and exhaust manifold with a scraper and wire brush to remove any remaining material from the old gasket. A clean, smooth surface ensures proper installation of the new gaskets. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Allow the engine and exhaust manifold to completely cool.
2. Disconnect any tubing from the exhaust manifold.
3. Loosen and remove the exhaust manifold bolts. If the bolts are resistant, use a penetrating oil to loosen them.
4. Remove the exhaust manifold and gaskets from the engine. The exhaust manifold in a Buick LeSabre is typically secured with two studs and two nuts.
5. Clean the gasket areas on both the engine and exhaust manifold with a scraper and wire brush to remove any remaining material from the old gasket. A clean, smooth surface ensures proper installation of the new gaskets. Read More »»
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Camshaft Torque Specifications for a Mazda MX5 Engine
The Mazda MX-5, also known as the Miata, is a rear-wheel-drive Japanese sports car that has been available in the United States since 1990 and is still available today. The car features a 16-valve engine with a dual overhead camshaft and a timing belt.
Cam Cover Bolts
The camshaft cover bolts on the Mazda Miata require 43 to 78 inch-pounds of torque. In addition, to ensure that the cam cover does not leak, care should be taken to tighten the cam cover bolts in a specific order, as described in the following section.
Camshaft Bearing Bolts
The camshafts are secured to the head of the Miata's engine with 20 cam bolts. The camshaft bearing cap bolts require a final torque rating of 100 to 125 foot-pounds of torque. It is critical that the camshaft cap bolts be loosened or tightened in stages, in a specific order -- start in the middle of the engine and work in a spiral pattern toward the outside of the engine.
Maintain Camshaft Bearing Cap Position
In addition to the specific torque rating, it is advisable to record the location for each camshaft cap bearing and re-install each cap into its original position. The reason for this is that over time and because of engine wear, minor variances may develop in each cap. Read More »»
Cam Cover Bolts
The camshaft cover bolts on the Mazda Miata require 43 to 78 inch-pounds of torque. In addition, to ensure that the cam cover does not leak, care should be taken to tighten the cam cover bolts in a specific order, as described in the following section.
Camshaft Bearing Bolts
The camshafts are secured to the head of the Miata's engine with 20 cam bolts. The camshaft bearing cap bolts require a final torque rating of 100 to 125 foot-pounds of torque. It is critical that the camshaft cap bolts be loosened or tightened in stages, in a specific order -- start in the middle of the engine and work in a spiral pattern toward the outside of the engine.
Maintain Camshaft Bearing Cap Position
In addition to the specific torque rating, it is advisable to record the location for each camshaft cap bearing and re-install each cap into its original position. The reason for this is that over time and because of engine wear, minor variances may develop in each cap. Read More »»
How to Identify Chevy Suffixes
The Chevrolet suffix is the end portion of a Chevrolet engine ID code, or casting number. Primarily used on the engine block, the code was originally developed to communicate engine specifics between one department and another. It has since become an invaluable identification tool for those seeking specific engine parts at junkyards and swap meets. The information found within the suffix, which must be referenced to a Chevrolet suffix listing, identifies the engine completely, including the year, original vehicle application and any specifications particular to the engine in question.
Procedure:
1. Locate the Chevrolet engine ID code. According to Nasty Z28.com, the engine ID codes are located as follows: on small block V-8s, the code is located on the block near the font of the passenger-side cylinder head. It may be hidden by the alternator. On big block V-8s, it is above the timing chain cover, and on six-cylinder engines, it is found behind the distributor on the passenger side of the block. An example of the alphanumeric code is "V0107CLT."
2. Identify the suffix portion of the engine ID code. Using the example "V0107CLT," the suffix portion of the code is the last three letters, "CLT."
3. Reference the suffix to a Chevrolet suffix listing. Suffix reference listings can be found at NastyZ28.com and Chevy-Camaro.com (see Resources). The suffix example, "CLT," when referenced to a listing, identifies the engine as a 1973 350-cubic-inch Corvette engine with California emission standards and 165 horsepower. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Locate the Chevrolet engine ID code. According to Nasty Z28.com, the engine ID codes are located as follows: on small block V-8s, the code is located on the block near the font of the passenger-side cylinder head. It may be hidden by the alternator. On big block V-8s, it is above the timing chain cover, and on six-cylinder engines, it is found behind the distributor on the passenger side of the block. An example of the alphanumeric code is "V0107CLT."
2. Identify the suffix portion of the engine ID code. Using the example "V0107CLT," the suffix portion of the code is the last three letters, "CLT."
3. Reference the suffix to a Chevrolet suffix listing. Suffix reference listings can be found at NastyZ28.com and Chevy-Camaro.com (see Resources). The suffix example, "CLT," when referenced to a listing, identifies the engine as a 1973 350-cubic-inch Corvette engine with California emission standards and 165 horsepower. Read More »»
How to Install Head Bolts
If you have never installed head bolts, it is best to do your homework and arm yourself with the bolt torque and tightening order specs of the engine you're working on. Proper bolt lubrication, cleaning, and deburring, along with aluminum heads and washer placement, all help to make the engine work properly upon completion. There is no such thing as a quick-and-dirty job when it comes to head bolt installation: do it right or you'll have a problem on your hands.
Procedure:
1. Inspect each bolt to assure clean and undamaged threads. Use a wire brush to clear any foreign matter off the threads. Use the service manual to check proper bolt length for each location. If the head has been resurfaced, bolts may be slightly too long and bottom out before exerting the proper downward force on the head. In this case, use hardened steel washers to make up for lost head height.
2. Run a bottoming tap down each bolt hole to clear out any debris. Apply motor oil to all bolt threads and to the bottom of the bolt head. If the head is aluminum, use manufacturer-recommended hardened steel washers under each bolt head, chamfered-side up, lubricated. If the head has been resurfaced, you will have to use thicker washers to make up for lost head height to keep bolts from bottoming out. Make sure all surfaces on the head, washers and bolts are clean and burr-free.
3. Drop each bolt into its respective location and finger tighten. Use the service manual for bolt-tightening sequence. Use the beam-deflector torque wrench to tighten all bolts in 3 to 5 steps. The first step tightens all bolts in sequence to a percentage of full torque. Each subsequent step tightens all bolts in sequence to progressively higher torque specs until the final step sets the bolts to the rated final torque. Guesswork can warp the head or cause leakage and overheating.
4. Re-check torque on all bolts. If you missed one, this step will find it. Bolts are made to stretch somewhat, so the final torque check assures proper clamp force on the head. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Inspect each bolt to assure clean and undamaged threads. Use a wire brush to clear any foreign matter off the threads. Use the service manual to check proper bolt length for each location. If the head has been resurfaced, bolts may be slightly too long and bottom out before exerting the proper downward force on the head. In this case, use hardened steel washers to make up for lost head height.
2. Run a bottoming tap down each bolt hole to clear out any debris. Apply motor oil to all bolt threads and to the bottom of the bolt head. If the head is aluminum, use manufacturer-recommended hardened steel washers under each bolt head, chamfered-side up, lubricated. If the head has been resurfaced, you will have to use thicker washers to make up for lost head height to keep bolts from bottoming out. Make sure all surfaces on the head, washers and bolts are clean and burr-free.
3. Drop each bolt into its respective location and finger tighten. Use the service manual for bolt-tightening sequence. Use the beam-deflector torque wrench to tighten all bolts in 3 to 5 steps. The first step tightens all bolts in sequence to a percentage of full torque. Each subsequent step tightens all bolts in sequence to progressively higher torque specs until the final step sets the bolts to the rated final torque. Guesswork can warp the head or cause leakage and overheating.
4. Re-check torque on all bolts. If you missed one, this step will find it. Bolts are made to stretch somewhat, so the final torque check assures proper clamp force on the head. Read More »»
Directions for How to Install a Harmonic Balancer
The harmonic balancer, also known as a harmonic or crank pulley damper, lessens the vibration of your engine. It is located at the front of the engine on the crank shaft. Replacement of the harmonic balancer can be time consuming and tricky.
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, placing it safely against the battery. Drain the radiator into a large bucket; do not drain on the ground if you use coolant.
2. Remove the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items that may be in the way. Mark any wires that may be in the way for correct placement later.
3. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt, then gently pull the harmonic balancer from the crankshaft using the Special Tool 8513A insert and the jaw puller. Clean the damper bore and crankshaft nose thoroughly.
4. Slide the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft nose gently and ensure it is on as far as you can push it by hand. Press the harmonic balancer onto the crankshaft with the Special Tool 8512-A.
5. Install the harmonic balancer bolt, using the torque wrench to tighten to 176 N·m or 129 ft. lbs. Replace the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items if removed. Refill the radiator. Connect the battery cable. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, placing it safely against the battery. Drain the radiator into a large bucket; do not drain on the ground if you use coolant.
2. Remove the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items that may be in the way. Mark any wires that may be in the way for correct placement later.
3. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt, then gently pull the harmonic balancer from the crankshaft using the Special Tool 8513A insert and the jaw puller. Clean the damper bore and crankshaft nose thoroughly.
4. Slide the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft nose gently and ensure it is on as far as you can push it by hand. Press the harmonic balancer onto the crankshaft with the Special Tool 8512-A.
5. Install the harmonic balancer bolt, using the torque wrench to tighten to 176 N·m or 129 ft. lbs. Replace the belts, radiator hose, fan shroud and other items if removed. Refill the radiator. Connect the battery cable. Read More »»
Remove a 1965 Mustang Engine
When restoring a 1965 Ford Mustang, the engine should come out, even if you don't need to rebuild it. It is easier to complete body work on the engine compartment when the engine is out of the vehicle. You might also take the engine out to rebuild it or to clean the outside of the engine so that you can have the perfect show car. Some hot-rodders also remove the engine in favor of a larger engine, but the narrow engine compartment limits your options, unless you are prepared to do some body-altering work.
Procedures:
1. Mark the hood bolts and the hood (matchmark) so that you don't have to spend an hour trying to adjust the hood when you put it back on. Slide a drain pan under the radiator petcock. Loosen the petcock and allow the radiator to drain. Slide another drain pan under the oil pan. Remove the oil pan bolt, using the appropriate socket, and allow the crankcase to drain. Dispose of the fluids in an appropriate manner.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the air duct, using the screwdriver, then remove the air ducts. Remove the air box, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the battery, negative cable first, using the appropriate wrench. Follow the battery cables down to the starter and the ground, then remove the cables, using the appropriate socket.
3. Slide an empty drain pan under the transmission lines at the radiator, then disconnect the transmission lines at the radiator, if your Mustang is an automatic, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps.
4. Break the fan bolts loose using the appropriate socket but do not remove them. Loosen the adjusting bolts for the air compressor (if equipped), the alternator and the power steering pump (if equipped). Push each accessory toward the engine to loosen tension on the belt. Lift the belts off the engine.
5. Unplug the wiring harness connectors for the air compressor and the alternator. On the alternator, use a wrench to remove the nut holding the power wire onto the alternator. Remove the power wire. Leave the hoses for the air compressor and the power steering pump attached to each accessory and move the accessories out of the way.
6. Unbolt the air conditioning condenser from the body but do not remove the lines. Tip the condenser forward, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. If the engine is a 428 CJ, 429 Super CJ, Boss 302 or Boss 429, disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the engine oil cooler, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the hold-down bracket, then lift the oil cooler out of the engine compartment.
7. Remove the fan bolts, fan and upper pulley, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump and the carburetor spacer, using a screwdriver. Remove the wiring from the starter, using the appropriate wrench. Unbolt and remove the starter, using the appropriate socket. Remove the accelerator rod at the carburetor, using a screwdriver. If you have a six-cylinder engine, remove the choke control cable at the carburetor, using a screwdriver.
8. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump on the side of the block, using a screwdriver, then block the line by sticking a bolt in it. Remove the wires from the coil, using a small wrench. Pull the coil wire off the coil tower. Unplug the oil pressure and temperature sending units.
9. Remove the clutch retracting spring, clutch equalizer shaft and arm bracket at the underbody rail, if your Mustang is a manual shift. Remove the arm bracket and the equalizer shaft, using the appropriate socket.
10. Raise the car, using a floor jack. Support it with jack stands. Remove the flywheel housing upper retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. The bolts are removed through the access holes in the floor pan. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the right and left engine mounts at the underbody brackets. Remove the flywheel housing cover. If the Mustang is a manual shift, remove the flywheel housing lower retaining bolts.
11. Disconnect the throttle valve vacuum line at the intake manifold, if the car is an automatic. Remove the converter housing lower retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. Lower the car off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the transmission and jack it up high enough to touch the transmission.
12. Attach the engine hoist to the engine by sliding bolts through the hoist chains and screwing the bolts into the bolt holes in the head. Double check that all wires and hoses are disconnected. Remove all engine mounts, using the appropriate socket. Lift the engine a few inches. Check again to ensure that all wires and hoses have been disconnected. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment and put it on an engine stand. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Mark the hood bolts and the hood (matchmark) so that you don't have to spend an hour trying to adjust the hood when you put it back on. Slide a drain pan under the radiator petcock. Loosen the petcock and allow the radiator to drain. Slide another drain pan under the oil pan. Remove the oil pan bolt, using the appropriate socket, and allow the crankcase to drain. Dispose of the fluids in an appropriate manner.
2. Loosen the hose clamps on the air duct, using the screwdriver, then remove the air ducts. Remove the air box, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the battery, negative cable first, using the appropriate wrench. Follow the battery cables down to the starter and the ground, then remove the cables, using the appropriate socket.
3. Slide an empty drain pan under the transmission lines at the radiator, then disconnect the transmission lines at the radiator, if your Mustang is an automatic, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, using a screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps.
4. Break the fan bolts loose using the appropriate socket but do not remove them. Loosen the adjusting bolts for the air compressor (if equipped), the alternator and the power steering pump (if equipped). Push each accessory toward the engine to loosen tension on the belt. Lift the belts off the engine.
5. Unplug the wiring harness connectors for the air compressor and the alternator. On the alternator, use a wrench to remove the nut holding the power wire onto the alternator. Remove the power wire. Leave the hoses for the air compressor and the power steering pump attached to each accessory and move the accessories out of the way.
6. Unbolt the air conditioning condenser from the body but do not remove the lines. Tip the condenser forward, if the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning. If the engine is a 428 CJ, 429 Super CJ, Boss 302 or Boss 429, disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the engine oil cooler, using the appropriate line wrench. Remove the hold-down bracket, then lift the oil cooler out of the engine compartment.
7. Remove the fan bolts, fan and upper pulley, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump and the carburetor spacer, using a screwdriver. Remove the wiring from the starter, using the appropriate wrench. Unbolt and remove the starter, using the appropriate socket. Remove the accelerator rod at the carburetor, using a screwdriver. If you have a six-cylinder engine, remove the choke control cable at the carburetor, using a screwdriver.
8. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump on the side of the block, using a screwdriver, then block the line by sticking a bolt in it. Remove the wires from the coil, using a small wrench. Pull the coil wire off the coil tower. Unplug the oil pressure and temperature sending units.
9. Remove the clutch retracting spring, clutch equalizer shaft and arm bracket at the underbody rail, if your Mustang is a manual shift. Remove the arm bracket and the equalizer shaft, using the appropriate socket.
10. Raise the car, using a floor jack. Support it with jack stands. Remove the flywheel housing upper retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. The bolts are removed through the access holes in the floor pan. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the right and left engine mounts at the underbody brackets. Remove the flywheel housing cover. If the Mustang is a manual shift, remove the flywheel housing lower retaining bolts.
11. Disconnect the throttle valve vacuum line at the intake manifold, if the car is an automatic. Remove the converter housing lower retaining bolts, using the appropriate socket. Lower the car off the jack stands, using the floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the transmission and jack it up high enough to touch the transmission.
12. Attach the engine hoist to the engine by sliding bolts through the hoist chains and screwing the bolts into the bolt holes in the head. Double check that all wires and hoses are disconnected. Remove all engine mounts, using the appropriate socket. Lift the engine a few inches. Check again to ensure that all wires and hoses have been disconnected. Lift the engine out of the engine compartment and put it on an engine stand. Read More »»
BBC Engine Builder Specs
The Big Block Chevy (BBC) engine has a history that began with a bang--or at least a lot of excitement. In 1963, the Chevrolet team showed up at the Daytona 500 track and proceeded to blow the competition away. Their secret weapon was a big block engine that had a displacement of 427 cubic inches. On that day, a legend was born. The builder specs of the BBC engine help explain why it is still a force to be reckoned with.
General Description
The BBC engine is a V8 with a displacement of 540.7 cubic inches.
Bore, Stroke and Compression
The bore of the big block is 4.5 inches, while the stroke is 4.25 inches. The compression of the engine is 9.90:1.
Clearance
The clearances of the Chevy big block are tight: the main bearing clearance is .0025 inches, the thrust clearance of the crankshaft is .0065 inches, the rod bearing is .0022 inches and the rod side clearance is .018 inches.
Valve Spring
The seat pressure of the valve spring is 142 pounds at 1.940, the open pressure is 402 pounds at 1.250, and the coil-bind is 1.130. Read More »»
General Description
The BBC engine is a V8 with a displacement of 540.7 cubic inches.
Bore, Stroke and Compression
The bore of the big block is 4.5 inches, while the stroke is 4.25 inches. The compression of the engine is 9.90:1.
Clearance
The clearances of the Chevy big block are tight: the main bearing clearance is .0025 inches, the thrust clearance of the crankshaft is .0065 inches, the rod bearing is .0022 inches and the rod side clearance is .018 inches.
Valve Spring
The seat pressure of the valve spring is 142 pounds at 1.940, the open pressure is 402 pounds at 1.250, and the coil-bind is 1.130. Read More »»
Sunday, December 12, 2010
1978 Malibu Specs
The 1978 Chevrolet Malibu was Chevy's mid-sized line for individual, police and fleet buyers. The Malibu was offered as a two-door coupe, four-door sedan and four-door station wagon. Chevy offered 43 different options and option packages with the Malibu to improve convenience, comfort, appearance and performance.
Engine
The standard engine in the 1978 Malibu was a 200 cubic inch cast iron, liquid cooled, naturally-aspirated, overhead valve V-6 rated at 95 horsepower. This was the first year Chevy used a V-6 engine. There also was an optional 231 cubic inch V-6 that produced 105 horsepower and a 305 cubic inch V-8 rated at 145 horsepower. Station wagon buyers could also choose a 350 cubic inch V-8 that produced 170 horsepower.
Chassis
The 1978 Malibu models had a steel body on a steel perimeter frame. The front suspension featured a ball joint with coil springs. The live rear axle was suspended from coil springs on trailing arms. The Malibu models had front disc brakes and rear drum brakes with power assist optional. The front-mounted engine drove the rear wheels through a standard three-speed manual transmission, with a four-speed manual and three-speed automatic transmission available as options. Final drive ratio was 2.73-to-1 or 3.08-to-1, with Positraction optional.
Dimensions
The 1978 Malibu was 192.7 inches long on a 108.1-inch wheelbase. The cars were 70.1 inches wide and 54.5 inches high with a 58-inch tread between the wheels. The sedans had 16.1 cubic feet of trunk space, the wagon 72.4 cubic inch of cargo space. Buyers could choose from 14 body colors, five two-tone color schemes, and an optional vinyl roof in seven colors.
Read More »»
Engine
The standard engine in the 1978 Malibu was a 200 cubic inch cast iron, liquid cooled, naturally-aspirated, overhead valve V-6 rated at 95 horsepower. This was the first year Chevy used a V-6 engine. There also was an optional 231 cubic inch V-6 that produced 105 horsepower and a 305 cubic inch V-8 rated at 145 horsepower. Station wagon buyers could also choose a 350 cubic inch V-8 that produced 170 horsepower.
Chassis
The 1978 Malibu models had a steel body on a steel perimeter frame. The front suspension featured a ball joint with coil springs. The live rear axle was suspended from coil springs on trailing arms. The Malibu models had front disc brakes and rear drum brakes with power assist optional. The front-mounted engine drove the rear wheels through a standard three-speed manual transmission, with a four-speed manual and three-speed automatic transmission available as options. Final drive ratio was 2.73-to-1 or 3.08-to-1, with Positraction optional.
Dimensions
The 1978 Malibu was 192.7 inches long on a 108.1-inch wheelbase. The cars were 70.1 inches wide and 54.5 inches high with a 58-inch tread between the wheels. The sedans had 16.1 cubic feet of trunk space, the wagon 72.4 cubic inch of cargo space. Buyers could choose from 14 body colors, five two-tone color schemes, and an optional vinyl roof in seven colors.
Read More »»
Holley Carburetor Specifications
Holley produces a wide range of carburetors. Each product is made to serve a different purpose, so the specifications must alter for each carburetor. Holley is the only modular carburetor company that has run for over 100 years. They have helped every NASCAR champion since the 1960s.
Metering and Kickdown
Some Holley carburetors, such as the 650 CFM Ultra Double Pumper, have black anodized billet aluminum metering blocks and a base plate with black hardware. Other carburetors, like the 1050 CFM Ultra Dominator, also have billet aluminum metering blocks, but they have interchangeable emulsion, power valve channel restrictions and idle feed. These carburetors come equipped with Ford A/T kickdown.
Choke and Ports
Holley carburetors have fairly standard ports, but the chokes vary from piece to piece. For example, the 650 CFM carburetor and the 600 CFM carburetor both have one timed spark port, one PCV port and one full vacuum. The 600 CFM comes with a manual choke, however, while the 650 CFM is equipped with an electric choke.
Other Features
Most Holley carburetors are made of aluminum. Some parts of the products are made of other materials as well; for example, the 650 CFM has glass fuel-level sight windows. The 600 CFM comes with a "Next Gen" needle and seat design that allows the user to not worry about external float level adjustment. The 1050 CFM is built with dual fuel inlets and slabbed throttle shafts.
Read More »»
Metering and Kickdown
Some Holley carburetors, such as the 650 CFM Ultra Double Pumper, have black anodized billet aluminum metering blocks and a base plate with black hardware. Other carburetors, like the 1050 CFM Ultra Dominator, also have billet aluminum metering blocks, but they have interchangeable emulsion, power valve channel restrictions and idle feed. These carburetors come equipped with Ford A/T kickdown.
Choke and Ports
Holley carburetors have fairly standard ports, but the chokes vary from piece to piece. For example, the 650 CFM carburetor and the 600 CFM carburetor both have one timed spark port, one PCV port and one full vacuum. The 600 CFM comes with a manual choke, however, while the 650 CFM is equipped with an electric choke.
Other Features
Most Holley carburetors are made of aluminum. Some parts of the products are made of other materials as well; for example, the 650 CFM has glass fuel-level sight windows. The 600 CFM comes with a "Next Gen" needle and seat design that allows the user to not worry about external float level adjustment. The 1050 CFM is built with dual fuel inlets and slabbed throttle shafts.
Read More »»
Why Do Exhaust Valves Break?
An exhaust valve allows cylinder head gasses to escape, Expensive engine work is often necessary when an exhaust valve breaks. Though repair is needed once this occurs, having information on what caused the valve breakage might be important.
Types
There are two types of breakage to which exhaust valves can fall victim. One type involves a breakage where the head and the stem connect. A break can also occur at the point of the stem where the keeper-grooves have been built in.
Head Breakage
Exhaust valves can experience this type of breakage because of stretching that occurs due to constant heat. Thermal shock negatively effects exhaust valves, because sudden drops in the engine's temperature causes them to break.
Stem Breakage
Heavy wear in the keeper grooves will cause the stem to snap off an exhaust valve. Constant sideloading can cause stem breakage if the stem height has not been installed correctly. Read More »»
Types
There are two types of breakage to which exhaust valves can fall victim. One type involves a breakage where the head and the stem connect. A break can also occur at the point of the stem where the keeper-grooves have been built in.
Head Breakage
Exhaust valves can experience this type of breakage because of stretching that occurs due to constant heat. Thermal shock negatively effects exhaust valves, because sudden drops in the engine's temperature causes them to break.
Stem Breakage
Heavy wear in the keeper grooves will cause the stem to snap off an exhaust valve. Constant sideloading can cause stem breakage if the stem height has not been installed correctly. Read More »»
Fix Valve Cover Leaks
The valve cover is essential to the preservation of an engine. This component allows the engine to run without having to worry about the constant spilling of oil. The valve cover's primary function is to stop oil from spilling onto the exhaust system which could result in a fire. A valve leak can lead to oil spilling onto the engine. The best way to fix the problem is to replace the valve cover.
Procedures:
1. Check the valve for leaks. Although the valve cover is supposed to prevent leaks, it sometimes has the reverse effect after years of use. The best way to check this is to check the gasket; which prevents leaks. However, over time they too can wear down.
2. Get to the valve cover. Depending on the type of car you own, this step might be simple or very difficult. Start by removing any wire or filters that are around the engine bay that cover the valve cover.
3. Mark the wires to make it easier to put the wires back when you are done. Tighten bolts and then observe--on the chance it might be a loose bolt that causes the leak. Tighten the bolt and watch to see if you still see leaking. Do not over tighten as this could cause the valve cover to crack.
4. Allow the engine to cool before removing the valve cover. Remove the bolts holding the valve cover to the engine. Disassemble the valve cover and slowly remove the cover.
5. Search the engine for any old or damaged gaskets; remove any of the damaged gaskets that need to be replaced. After the dysfunctional gaskets have been removed, wipe any extraneous oil from the engine bay.
6. Use silicone to seal the valve cover only if the user manual calls for it. Replace the valve cover with the new gaskets installed. Tighten the bolts that hold the valve cover down only to their specific torque level.
7. Reassemble the wires and filter that previously blocked the valve cover, in the same order they were disassembled. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Check the valve for leaks. Although the valve cover is supposed to prevent leaks, it sometimes has the reverse effect after years of use. The best way to check this is to check the gasket; which prevents leaks. However, over time they too can wear down.
2. Get to the valve cover. Depending on the type of car you own, this step might be simple or very difficult. Start by removing any wire or filters that are around the engine bay that cover the valve cover.
3. Mark the wires to make it easier to put the wires back when you are done. Tighten bolts and then observe--on the chance it might be a loose bolt that causes the leak. Tighten the bolt and watch to see if you still see leaking. Do not over tighten as this could cause the valve cover to crack.
4. Allow the engine to cool before removing the valve cover. Remove the bolts holding the valve cover to the engine. Disassemble the valve cover and slowly remove the cover.
5. Search the engine for any old or damaged gaskets; remove any of the damaged gaskets that need to be replaced. After the dysfunctional gaskets have been removed, wipe any extraneous oil from the engine bay.
6. Use silicone to seal the valve cover only if the user manual calls for it. Replace the valve cover with the new gaskets installed. Tighten the bolts that hold the valve cover down only to their specific torque level.
7. Reassemble the wires and filter that previously blocked the valve cover, in the same order they were disassembled. Read More »»
Install a Camshaft Sensor
The electronic control module or ECM, monitors the camshaft sensor to determine the correct time to inject fuel into the cylinder. It also uses the sensor to determine the correct time to ignite the fuel air mixture. The camshaft sensor is a magnetic or Hall effect sensor that provides a pulse or voltage to the ECM input. The ECM monitors the signal to determine proper engine timing. The camshaft sensor is mounted in the cylinder head of the engine. An inline engine--all the cylinders are in a row--will have one camshaft sensor. A V-block engine--cylinders are on both sides of the engine block--will have two camshaft sensors, one on each cylinder head. If you experience hard starting issues such as the engine cranks but does not start or engine misfires and hesitation, there may be a problem with your engine's camshaft sensor.
Procedures:
1. Open the hood and set the prop rod to hold the hood open. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.
2. Disconnect the old camshaft sensor from the engine harness connector. Remove the old sensor from the cylinder head. Retain the mounting bolts for installing the new sensor. Inspect the sensor mounting location and remove any O-ring material that is stuck to the mounting surface. Remove oil and dirt from the sensor mounting location.
3. Remove the new sensor and compare it with the old sensor. Confirm that the sensors are the same and the electrical connector and mounting locations are correct. Locate the new O-ring and verify that it fits properly in the O-ring grove.
4. Slide the sensor into the cylinder hole. Install the camshaft sensor mounting bolts. Be sure to tighten the bolts securely. Connect the sensor to the engine harness connector. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Open the hood and set the prop rod to hold the hood open. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.
2. Disconnect the old camshaft sensor from the engine harness connector. Remove the old sensor from the cylinder head. Retain the mounting bolts for installing the new sensor. Inspect the sensor mounting location and remove any O-ring material that is stuck to the mounting surface. Remove oil and dirt from the sensor mounting location.
3. Remove the new sensor and compare it with the old sensor. Confirm that the sensors are the same and the electrical connector and mounting locations are correct. Locate the new O-ring and verify that it fits properly in the O-ring grove.
4. Slide the sensor into the cylinder hole. Install the camshaft sensor mounting bolts. Be sure to tighten the bolts securely. Connect the sensor to the engine harness connector. Read More »»
Friday, December 10, 2010
Remove Motor Oil Sludge
The buildup of sludge in your car's engine is caused by the breakdown of the engine oil. The oil breaks down due to factors such as heat and contamination. Over time, the oil will thicken, causing it to settle on the engine's components, such as the crankshaft or on top of the engine on the valve train. This will effect the engine's efficiency, causing it to run hotter with less lubrication. Complete engine failure can occur eventually. However, with proper care and maintenance, you can take steps to prevent this situation.
Procedures:
1. Flush the engine oil system. You can purchase a quality engine flush at your local auto parts store. Replace the vehicle's old oil filter with a new filter and add one bottle of engine oil system flush. Make sure the oil level is at its maximum safe limit, as indicated on the dipstick. Loosen the oil drain plug and allow some oil to drain into a catch basin before adding the engine oil flush. Tighten the drain plug again.
2. Turn on the engine. Allow it to idle for approximately 15 minutes. Do not rev the engine or put it into gear. Shut the engine down after 15 minutes.
3. Remove the engine flush. Remove the drain plug from the oil pan and allow the oil and flush to drain into a catch basin. Remove the oil filter and replace it with a new filter. Replace the oil drain plug after all the oil and flush have drained completely into the catch basin. The drainage should take at least 10 minutes.
4. Fill the engine with fresh engine oil that meets the vehicle manufacturer's recommended specifications. After adding oil, start and run the vehicle, turning it off after five minutes. Wait another five minutes and check the oil level again with the dipstick. You may need to add more oil.
5. Do a complete oil change with another new oil filter after approximately 100 miles of usage. This step is optional but serves to remove any remaining sludge that may have become dislodged after using the vehicle. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Flush the engine oil system. You can purchase a quality engine flush at your local auto parts store. Replace the vehicle's old oil filter with a new filter and add one bottle of engine oil system flush. Make sure the oil level is at its maximum safe limit, as indicated on the dipstick. Loosen the oil drain plug and allow some oil to drain into a catch basin before adding the engine oil flush. Tighten the drain plug again.
2. Turn on the engine. Allow it to idle for approximately 15 minutes. Do not rev the engine or put it into gear. Shut the engine down after 15 minutes.
3. Remove the engine flush. Remove the drain plug from the oil pan and allow the oil and flush to drain into a catch basin. Remove the oil filter and replace it with a new filter. Replace the oil drain plug after all the oil and flush have drained completely into the catch basin. The drainage should take at least 10 minutes.
4. Fill the engine with fresh engine oil that meets the vehicle manufacturer's recommended specifications. After adding oil, start and run the vehicle, turning it off after five minutes. Wait another five minutes and check the oil level again with the dipstick. You may need to add more oil.
5. Do a complete oil change with another new oil filter after approximately 100 miles of usage. This step is optional but serves to remove any remaining sludge that may have become dislodged after using the vehicle. Read More »»
Line Boring & Cutting Tools
Line boring is the process of enlarging the bore, or inside diameter, of a piece of pipe or other type of substance that has an inside and outside diameter and that is hollow. Line boring is often used with engines, for boring out cylinders to increase the diameter during an engine rebuild or in the manufacture of all kinds of pipes and other cylindrical items. There are a number of different line boring and cutting tools available, and each one has a specific purpose as well as a best use.
Large Boring Machines
Large line boring machines are often used in stationary applications, such as in factories where equipment is produced or rebuilt. These machines are very large and are not portable, but they are very precise, able to bore and hone the interior of a metal surface to within thousandths of an inch of tolerance in order to make sure that machined parts can fit together. These machines often cost tens of thousands of dollars or more and are rarely seen by anyone outside of the machine tool industry.
Carbide Cutting and Boring Tools
Carbide cutting and boring tools are used on large and small boring machines in order to actually do the material removal required for the application in question. Carbide tools are generally harder than steel and may have removable carbide tips that can be replaced when they get dull from repeated use. Carbide cutting and boring tools come in a variety of styles, including bit-type styles that are designed to be used with a drill or drilling machines.
Honing Tools
Honing tools are another component of the line boring and cutting industry. After a hole has been bored out or enlarged using a carbide cutting tool, the surface that has been cut must be honed, or polished, in order to ensure that no burrs or other metal problems remain. Honing tools are made of stones with very fine grit that can be inserted into the hole and spun at high velocity to create a non-directional surface that is smooth as glass and free of scratches or high spots that might damage the machinery. Read More »»
Large Boring Machines
Large line boring machines are often used in stationary applications, such as in factories where equipment is produced or rebuilt. These machines are very large and are not portable, but they are very precise, able to bore and hone the interior of a metal surface to within thousandths of an inch of tolerance in order to make sure that machined parts can fit together. These machines often cost tens of thousands of dollars or more and are rarely seen by anyone outside of the machine tool industry.
Carbide Cutting and Boring Tools
Carbide cutting and boring tools are used on large and small boring machines in order to actually do the material removal required for the application in question. Carbide tools are generally harder than steel and may have removable carbide tips that can be replaced when they get dull from repeated use. Carbide cutting and boring tools come in a variety of styles, including bit-type styles that are designed to be used with a drill or drilling machines.
Honing Tools
Honing tools are another component of the line boring and cutting industry. After a hole has been bored out or enlarged using a carbide cutting tool, the surface that has been cut must be honed, or polished, in order to ensure that no burrs or other metal problems remain. Honing tools are made of stones with very fine grit that can be inserted into the hole and spun at high velocity to create a non-directional surface that is smooth as glass and free of scratches or high spots that might damage the machinery. Read More »»
Remove a Thrust Bearing
A thrust bearing is an axle located inside an engine that rotates on its axis when force is applied on it. The bearing works to reduce friction by absorbing the large amount of thrust that is produced on the engine shaft that it supports. This ensures that the engine runs smoothly and quietly. Having a thrust bearing that works properly is important for the health of the engine. If it becomes necessary for you to replace a thrust bearing in your vehicle, it will require several hours of your time as a number of engine parts will need to be moved out of the way before you can access the bearing.
Procedures:
1. Remove the intake manifold. Most manifolds will be held in place by 16 bolts and you will need to remove all of them. Put the manifold aside.
2. Remove the radiator. Remove the bolts holding the radiator in place and pull it out. You may have to remove the fan first. Do not unhook the hose. Otherwise you will need to drain it first by placing a pan under it and opening the drain plug at the bottom of it.
3. Remove the alternator. Unplug the battery then follow the positive battery cable to the alternator. Loosen the alternator's tension bolt with a torque wrench, until the alternator can be turned. Remove the alternator fan then remove the tension bolt completely as well as the mounting bolt. Lift the alternator out.
4. Remove the water pump. It will be visible and accessible after removing the parts mentioned in the previous steps and will be attached to the front of the engine block. Use a socket wrench to remove the bolt holding it in place and lift it out. Do not disconnect the hose.
5. Remove the air condition compressor. Unplug the electrical connections. Remove the mounting bolts and lift the air condition compressor out.
6. Remove the power steering pump. Remove the bolts holding the pump in place and pull it out. Leave the hose attached otherwise you will have to drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir.
7. Remove the camshaft. Remove the bolts that hold it in place. There will usually be two or three. Loosen the valve rockers then remove the push rods and lifters by prying them off with a flat head screwdriver. Line up the push rods together with the corresponding lifter in the order they were in before you removed them. You will need to put them back in the exact slot they were in later. Carefully pull the camshaft out of the engine.
8. Remove the thrust bearing. At the back of the engine you will see the thrust bearing retainer plate held in place by two or three bolts. Remove these bolts and pull the thrust bearing out. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Remove the intake manifold. Most manifolds will be held in place by 16 bolts and you will need to remove all of them. Put the manifold aside.
2. Remove the radiator. Remove the bolts holding the radiator in place and pull it out. You may have to remove the fan first. Do not unhook the hose. Otherwise you will need to drain it first by placing a pan under it and opening the drain plug at the bottom of it.
3. Remove the alternator. Unplug the battery then follow the positive battery cable to the alternator. Loosen the alternator's tension bolt with a torque wrench, until the alternator can be turned. Remove the alternator fan then remove the tension bolt completely as well as the mounting bolt. Lift the alternator out.
4. Remove the water pump. It will be visible and accessible after removing the parts mentioned in the previous steps and will be attached to the front of the engine block. Use a socket wrench to remove the bolt holding it in place and lift it out. Do not disconnect the hose.
5. Remove the air condition compressor. Unplug the electrical connections. Remove the mounting bolts and lift the air condition compressor out.
6. Remove the power steering pump. Remove the bolts holding the pump in place and pull it out. Leave the hose attached otherwise you will have to drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir.
7. Remove the camshaft. Remove the bolts that hold it in place. There will usually be two or three. Loosen the valve rockers then remove the push rods and lifters by prying them off with a flat head screwdriver. Line up the push rods together with the corresponding lifter in the order they were in before you removed them. You will need to put them back in the exact slot they were in later. Carefully pull the camshaft out of the engine.
8. Remove the thrust bearing. At the back of the engine you will see the thrust bearing retainer plate held in place by two or three bolts. Remove these bolts and pull the thrust bearing out. Read More »»
Get Engine Oil Off Cement
Vehicles often leak oil and other substances, usually onto a garage floor or driveway. These oil stains can be unsightly and messy. Oil stains cannot be scrubbed from concrete. Instead, many options are available to draw the oil or grease out of the floor. Cleaning up oil spills can be inexpensive and take little time.
Procedures:
1. Put on protective goggles and gloves.
2. Crush 1 cup of cat litter into a powder. Try using a mortar and pestle to crush the litter. You can also place the litter in a sealed plastic bag, place the bag in a magazine and use a hammer to crush the litter.
3. Mix 1 ounce of trisodium phosphate and 1 cup of water in a bucket. Add the crushed litter. Mix with a paint stirrer until a paste forms.
4. Spread the paste on the oil stain with a putty knife and wait for it to dry (about 24 hours). Scrape the paste from the concrete floor with the putty knife.
5. Wet the area with water. Scrub with a nylon brush.
6. Pour cat litter or sand over the area that had the oil spill. Spread it over the entire stain. The litter will absorb any excess oil.
7. Sweep the litter into a dustpan after a couple of days. Dispose in a trash can. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Put on protective goggles and gloves.
2. Crush 1 cup of cat litter into a powder. Try using a mortar and pestle to crush the litter. You can also place the litter in a sealed plastic bag, place the bag in a magazine and use a hammer to crush the litter.
3. Mix 1 ounce of trisodium phosphate and 1 cup of water in a bucket. Add the crushed litter. Mix with a paint stirrer until a paste forms.
4. Spread the paste on the oil stain with a putty knife and wait for it to dry (about 24 hours). Scrape the paste from the concrete floor with the putty knife.
5. Wet the area with water. Scrub with a nylon brush.
6. Pour cat litter or sand over the area that had the oil spill. Spread it over the entire stain. The litter will absorb any excess oil.
7. Sweep the litter into a dustpan after a couple of days. Dispose in a trash can. Read More »»
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Add an Oil Filter to a VW
Regularly scheduled oil changes can extend the life of your VW and also help it run better. Changing the oil filter is also part of regular maintenance because it cleans the oil that passes through the engine, therefore reducing the amount of dirt and contamination that enters it. If an oil filter is not regularly changed, the filter will become clogged and unable to clean the oil that lubricates and helps the engine perform. Adding an oil filter to your VW can be done in very little time and can help prevent a very costly engine repair.
Procedures:
1. Open the hood and locate the oil filter positioned near the front of the engine block, behind and below the cooling fan. The oil filter is attached to the oil filter housing which is part of the engine block. The housing is held in place by an oil filter stem that the oil filter screws onto.
2. Place a bucket under the oil filter to catch any draining oil once the filter is removed. Put an oil filter wrench over the old oil filter and turn it counterclockwise to remove it. Put the old filter in the bucket and let it drain.
3. Clean the surface where the new filter will sit with a towel to remove any debris. Apply a thin film of oil over the rubber seal on the oil filter's open end and fill the filter with oil by pouring it into its open side. Place the new oil filter back onto the oil filter stem. Turn the filter clockwise to tighten it as much as you can by hand. Position the oil filter wrench over the oil filter and rotate it clockwise 1/2-turn more to seat the filter into position. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Open the hood and locate the oil filter positioned near the front of the engine block, behind and below the cooling fan. The oil filter is attached to the oil filter housing which is part of the engine block. The housing is held in place by an oil filter stem that the oil filter screws onto.
2. Place a bucket under the oil filter to catch any draining oil once the filter is removed. Put an oil filter wrench over the old oil filter and turn it counterclockwise to remove it. Put the old filter in the bucket and let it drain.
3. Clean the surface where the new filter will sit with a towel to remove any debris. Apply a thin film of oil over the rubber seal on the oil filter's open end and fill the filter with oil by pouring it into its open side. Place the new oil filter back onto the oil filter stem. Turn the filter clockwise to tighten it as much as you can by hand. Position the oil filter wrench over the oil filter and rotate it clockwise 1/2-turn more to seat the filter into position. Read More »»
Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX Specifications
The GSX is a trim level of the Mitsubishi Eclipse sports car that was last available for the 1999 model year. The GSX model is a two-door coupe that retailed for $26,550 when it was released. Along with the GS-T, the GSX provided drivers with a more powerful engine than any of the other Eclipse coupe models.
Measurements
The Eclipse GSX is 172.4 inches long, 68.5 inches wide and 50.5 inches tall. The wheelbase is 98.8 inches and the ground clearance is 4.6 inches. The turning diameter is 39.4 feet. The front track measures 59.6 inches and the rear track measures 59.4 inches. With a manual transmission, the car weighs 3,270 lbs. The automatic transmission version weighs 3,350 lbs.
Space
As many as four passengers can fit in the Eclipse GSX. Headroom is 36.4 inches in the front seat and 34.3 inches in the back seat. Legroom is 43.3 inches in the front seat and 28.4 inches in the back seat. Shoulder room is 53.1 inches in the front and 51.2 inches in the back. Hip room measures 55.1 inches in the front and 47.2 inches in the back.
Power
The GSX comes standard with a 2.0-liter I4 engine and 210 horsepower at 6,000 revolutions per minute. Its engine torque is 214 foot-pounds at 3,000 rpm and its displacement equals 1,997 cc. The compression ratio is 8.5-to-1. A slightly less powerful engine with 205 horsepower at 5,750 rpm is also available. This engine generates 209 foot-pounds of torque at 2,200 rpm and has a compression ratio of 9.2-to-1. The engine displacement is 1,985 cc.
Fuel
With its standard engine, the GSX gets 21 miles per gallon in the city and 28 mpg on the highway. With the 205 horsepower engine, it gets 19 mpg in the city and 25 mpg on the highway. Regardless of engine, the GSX features a 15.9-gallon fuel tank. Read More »»
Measurements
The Eclipse GSX is 172.4 inches long, 68.5 inches wide and 50.5 inches tall. The wheelbase is 98.8 inches and the ground clearance is 4.6 inches. The turning diameter is 39.4 feet. The front track measures 59.6 inches and the rear track measures 59.4 inches. With a manual transmission, the car weighs 3,270 lbs. The automatic transmission version weighs 3,350 lbs.
Space
As many as four passengers can fit in the Eclipse GSX. Headroom is 36.4 inches in the front seat and 34.3 inches in the back seat. Legroom is 43.3 inches in the front seat and 28.4 inches in the back seat. Shoulder room is 53.1 inches in the front and 51.2 inches in the back. Hip room measures 55.1 inches in the front and 47.2 inches in the back.
Power
The GSX comes standard with a 2.0-liter I4 engine and 210 horsepower at 6,000 revolutions per minute. Its engine torque is 214 foot-pounds at 3,000 rpm and its displacement equals 1,997 cc. The compression ratio is 8.5-to-1. A slightly less powerful engine with 205 horsepower at 5,750 rpm is also available. This engine generates 209 foot-pounds of torque at 2,200 rpm and has a compression ratio of 9.2-to-1. The engine displacement is 1,985 cc.
Fuel
With its standard engine, the GSX gets 21 miles per gallon in the city and 28 mpg on the highway. With the 205 horsepower engine, it gets 19 mpg in the city and 25 mpg on the highway. Regardless of engine, the GSX features a 15.9-gallon fuel tank. Read More »»
Install a Value Cover 258 On a Jeep
In 1971 Jeep used the 258 straight-six engine built by AMC. The engine has a single valve cover located on an angle on the driver's side of the engine. The valve cover protects the top of the engine's head and valves. The original valve covers on the AMC engines were painted steel. Over time, the valve covers tended to rust. This could result in the valve cover leaking engine oil.
Procedures:
1. Pull the PCV valve out of the top of the valve cover. The valve simply presses into the top of the cover.
2. Remove the seven bolts that secure the Jeep's valve cover to the engine head with a socket and ratchet.
3. Pull the valve cover off the Jeep's engine head. Some of the gasket will peel off with the old valve cover. Make sure none of that gasket gets inside the engine head.
4. Scrape the gasket material left on the mating surface of the engine head off the head using a metal scraper. Make sure none of the gasket material gets into the Jeep's engine head.
5. Place the new valve cover gasket onto the engine head and line up the bolt holes.
6. Place the valve cover on top of the engine head and secure it using the seven bolts, socket and ratchet. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Pull the PCV valve out of the top of the valve cover. The valve simply presses into the top of the cover.
2. Remove the seven bolts that secure the Jeep's valve cover to the engine head with a socket and ratchet.
3. Pull the valve cover off the Jeep's engine head. Some of the gasket will peel off with the old valve cover. Make sure none of that gasket gets inside the engine head.
4. Scrape the gasket material left on the mating surface of the engine head off the head using a metal scraper. Make sure none of the gasket material gets into the Jeep's engine head.
5. Place the new valve cover gasket onto the engine head and line up the bolt holes.
6. Place the valve cover on top of the engine head and secure it using the seven bolts, socket and ratchet. Read More »»
Ford F-10 Specifications
Ford F-series third and fourth generation trucks were built in Brazil between 1957 and 1966. Both the third and fourth generation designs were derived from the basic F-10, which was first created in 1952. The new names given to these successive generations were F-100 (built in 1953) and F-250 (in 1961). The F-10 has a hood flush to the chrome fenders as explained by Car Seek, a new chrome grille and its traditional separate fender body design became known as "flare-side."
Weight
The F-10 weighs half a ton without cargo. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is 4,000 to 5,000 pounds. GVWR is the maximum allowable total mass of the vehicle when loaded, including the weight of the vehicle, the fuel, passengers and trailer weight, as described by Hoffman White.
Body Style
The F-10 is a two-door pick-up truck with en enclosed cabin and a rear loading section for cargo. The fourth generation F-10, built between 1961 and 1966, has a two-door and a four-door option. The 1961 re-style brought single headlights back to the design and also a lower, wider cab, as reported by Edmunds.
Third Generation Engine
Three different engines are available for third generation F-10 trucks, depending on the year of manufacture: the 1958 to 1960 has 223 cubic inches of displacement (CID), or 3.7L, Mileage Maker I6; the 1958 has 272 CID (4.5L) Y-Block V8; and the 1959 to 1960 has 292 CID (4.8L) Y-Block V8. Each engine has a horse power of 137hp (102kW), 173hp (129kW) and 186hp (139kW), respectively. CID is the cubic inch displacement that all the pistons sweep in a single turnover of the engine. It represents the engine's capacity and power; the higher the displacement, the more powerful and efficient the engine.
Fourth Generation Engine
Fourth generation F-10 trucks can have five different engines: the 1961 to 1964 223 CID (3.7L) Mileage Maker I6; the 1961 to 1964 292 CID (4.8L) Y-Block V8; the 1965 to 1966 240 CID (3.9L) I6; the 1965 to 1966 300 CID (4.9L) I6; and the 1965 to 1966 352 CID (5.8L) FE V8. Each engine has a horse power of 114hp (85kW), 135hp (101kW), 150hp (110kW), 170hp (130kW) and 172hp (128kW), respectively.
Drive and Build
The F-10 truck is a two-wheel drive vehicle. The 1-Beam axle is tough, according to Ford Truk. Beginning in 1964, the Ford pick-up had a 128 inch wheel-base, which continued to be included in the design until 1988. The 1964 version also has an impressive 38 pounds of insulation to muffle road noise and increase the comfort of the driver and passengers. Read More »»
Weight
The F-10 weighs half a ton without cargo. The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is 4,000 to 5,000 pounds. GVWR is the maximum allowable total mass of the vehicle when loaded, including the weight of the vehicle, the fuel, passengers and trailer weight, as described by Hoffman White.
Body Style
The F-10 is a two-door pick-up truck with en enclosed cabin and a rear loading section for cargo. The fourth generation F-10, built between 1961 and 1966, has a two-door and a four-door option. The 1961 re-style brought single headlights back to the design and also a lower, wider cab, as reported by Edmunds.
Third Generation Engine
Three different engines are available for third generation F-10 trucks, depending on the year of manufacture: the 1958 to 1960 has 223 cubic inches of displacement (CID), or 3.7L, Mileage Maker I6; the 1958 has 272 CID (4.5L) Y-Block V8; and the 1959 to 1960 has 292 CID (4.8L) Y-Block V8. Each engine has a horse power of 137hp (102kW), 173hp (129kW) and 186hp (139kW), respectively. CID is the cubic inch displacement that all the pistons sweep in a single turnover of the engine. It represents the engine's capacity and power; the higher the displacement, the more powerful and efficient the engine.
Fourth Generation Engine
Fourth generation F-10 trucks can have five different engines: the 1961 to 1964 223 CID (3.7L) Mileage Maker I6; the 1961 to 1964 292 CID (4.8L) Y-Block V8; the 1965 to 1966 240 CID (3.9L) I6; the 1965 to 1966 300 CID (4.9L) I6; and the 1965 to 1966 352 CID (5.8L) FE V8. Each engine has a horse power of 114hp (85kW), 135hp (101kW), 150hp (110kW), 170hp (130kW) and 172hp (128kW), respectively.
Drive and Build
The F-10 truck is a two-wheel drive vehicle. The 1-Beam axle is tough, according to Ford Truk. Beginning in 1964, the Ford pick-up had a 128 inch wheel-base, which continued to be included in the design until 1988. The 1964 version also has an impressive 38 pounds of insulation to muffle road noise and increase the comfort of the driver and passengers. Read More »»
Diagnose Timing Chain Problems
A vehicle's timing chain is one of the most important parts because it is responsible for turning the camshaft, which makes your engine run. After many miles, a timing chain can stretch and the wear of the gears can leave residue in the system. A general rule of thumb is that a timing chain should be replaced after every 100,000 miles for optimum performance.
Procedures:
1. Listen to the sound of the engine when you start it up. If you hear a rattling noise, this is a common indication that the timing chain is too loose and needs repair.
2. Drive the vehicle to test the power of the engine. If the car's engine power seems to be decreased (meaning the car does not accelerate as it should) this is a timing chain symptom. A slack timing chain will cause the camshaft timing to be unpredictable.
3. Take off the distributor cap and turn the crankshaft either left or right until your rotor moves. Turn it the opposite direction until the rotor turns the other way. If you need to turn the crank more than half an inch to move the rotor, your timing gears and chain should be replaced.
4. Check to see if your camshaft is turning by removing the distributor cap and cranking the engine. The rotor should move and if it doesn't the chain is in need of repair. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Listen to the sound of the engine when you start it up. If you hear a rattling noise, this is a common indication that the timing chain is too loose and needs repair.
2. Drive the vehicle to test the power of the engine. If the car's engine power seems to be decreased (meaning the car does not accelerate as it should) this is a timing chain symptom. A slack timing chain will cause the camshaft timing to be unpredictable.
3. Take off the distributor cap and turn the crankshaft either left or right until your rotor moves. Turn it the opposite direction until the rotor turns the other way. If you need to turn the crank more than half an inch to move the rotor, your timing gears and chain should be replaced.
4. Check to see if your camshaft is turning by removing the distributor cap and cranking the engine. The rotor should move and if it doesn't the chain is in need of repair. Read More »»
SBC Head Bolt Torque Specifications
In 1955, GM took the automotive world by storm with the introduction of the Chevrolet Small Block V8 Engine. The SBC was originally designed for the Corvette, but soon became the standard for GM muscle cars, modified Jeeps and hot-rods. The first-generation SBCs had a displacement of 265 cubic inches and delivered 180 horsepower. By 1957, the larger version was delivering an astonishing 283 hp--one horsepower for every cubic inch of displacement. As a result, the engine earned the evergreen nickname of "Mouse." To date, more than 90 million have been sold, mostly through GM's popular "Crate Engine" program.
Top Overhaul
To maintain peak performance between major overhauls, most muscle car, Jeep and hot-rod enthusiasts perform a regular "top overhaul" on the SBC engine. This is done by removing and dismantling the cylinder heads, scraping away excess carbon deposits from the top of the pistons and inside the cylinder head combustion chambers, refinishing and polishing inlet and exhaust ports, and finally refacing and lapping the mating faces between the valves and valve seats with grinding paste. The cylinder heads are then re-assembled and bolted back onto the engine block.
Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence
Standard SBC cast-iron cylinder heads must be tightened onto the engine block in the sequence specified by GM. Cylinder head gaskets are first coated on both sides with a special sealant. The bolts are then inserted and tightened by using moderate torque with a socket wrench. This is done by starting with the central bolt and working outward bolt-by-bolt on either side in the sequence specified in the GM engine manual. This method ensures full contact between the cylinder head gasket and mating faces. It also eliminates the possibility of cylinder-head warpage.
Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Specifications
An adjustable torque wrench fitted with a socket is used during the first torque sequence. The socket is placed over the cylinder-head bolts and tightened until the torque wrench "breaks" and cannot tighten further. This is done at an initial torque wrench setting of 35 to 40 pounds-feet, and by following the sequence laid down in the manual. The torque wrench is then set to between 60 and 70 pounds-feet and the bolts are torqued a second time in the specified sequence. As subsequent bolts are torqued to the higher setting, they relieve some of the pressure imposed on the previously tightened bolt. The bolts are then finally torqued down with the same setting of 60 to 70 pounds-feet to relieve any remaining cylinder head stress. This procedure also ensures that the bolts have been pulled down evenly. Read More »»
Top Overhaul
To maintain peak performance between major overhauls, most muscle car, Jeep and hot-rod enthusiasts perform a regular "top overhaul" on the SBC engine. This is done by removing and dismantling the cylinder heads, scraping away excess carbon deposits from the top of the pistons and inside the cylinder head combustion chambers, refinishing and polishing inlet and exhaust ports, and finally refacing and lapping the mating faces between the valves and valve seats with grinding paste. The cylinder heads are then re-assembled and bolted back onto the engine block.
Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence
Standard SBC cast-iron cylinder heads must be tightened onto the engine block in the sequence specified by GM. Cylinder head gaskets are first coated on both sides with a special sealant. The bolts are then inserted and tightened by using moderate torque with a socket wrench. This is done by starting with the central bolt and working outward bolt-by-bolt on either side in the sequence specified in the GM engine manual. This method ensures full contact between the cylinder head gasket and mating faces. It also eliminates the possibility of cylinder-head warpage.
Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Specifications
An adjustable torque wrench fitted with a socket is used during the first torque sequence. The socket is placed over the cylinder-head bolts and tightened until the torque wrench "breaks" and cannot tighten further. This is done at an initial torque wrench setting of 35 to 40 pounds-feet, and by following the sequence laid down in the manual. The torque wrench is then set to between 60 and 70 pounds-feet and the bolts are torqued a second time in the specified sequence. As subsequent bolts are torqued to the higher setting, they relieve some of the pressure imposed on the previously tightened bolt. The bolts are then finally torqued down with the same setting of 60 to 70 pounds-feet to relieve any remaining cylinder head stress. This procedure also ensures that the bolts have been pulled down evenly. Read More »»
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
How to Test Brake Boosters
Power brakes represent one of the greatest advances in automotive braking technology. Not only do power brakes make it easier for the driver to stop the vehicle, but without the assistance of the power booster it would be practically impossible for disc brakes to be effectively used on automobiles. Any deficiencies in the performance of a power booster can seriously impair braking effectiveness, and it is important to be sure the booster is operating properly at all times. Testing the booster is a simple job that every driver can do.
Procedures:
1. Turn the vehicle engine off and pump the brake pedal a few times to deplete any remaining vacuum in the power booster. Push and hold the brake pedal down with light but steady pressure. Start the engine. The brake pedal should drop slightly, indicating that the booster is working properly.
2. Allow the engine to run at idle for a minute or two. Turn the engine off and slowly pump the brake pedal five or six times. The brake pedal should stop at a higher position with each pump, indicating that the booster is not leaking and the check valve is working properly.
3. Start the engine and allow it to run at idle for a minute or two. Push and hold the brake pedal down with light but steady pressure, and turn the engine off. Continue holding the pedal down for 30 seconds or so. If the pedal does not rise it indicates that the booster is not leaking and the check valve is working properly.
4. Test the vacuum booster check valve. Locate the vacuum booster. It is a dome shaped assembly mounted at the rear of the engine compartment on the driver's side. Now locate the flexible vacuum hose that runs from the engine intake manifold to the vacuum booster. Remove any retaining clips that hold the hose to the intake manifold connection, and slip the hose off the connection. Try to blow into the hose. If the check valve is working properly the air will not flow into the booster. Now try to suck air out of the hose. If the check valve is working properly air will flow out of the booster.
5. Connect an engine vacuum test gauge to the connection on the engine intake manifold. Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two. Check the test gauge vacuum reading. The vacuum should be at least 18 inches. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Turn the vehicle engine off and pump the brake pedal a few times to deplete any remaining vacuum in the power booster. Push and hold the brake pedal down with light but steady pressure. Start the engine. The brake pedal should drop slightly, indicating that the booster is working properly.
2. Allow the engine to run at idle for a minute or two. Turn the engine off and slowly pump the brake pedal five or six times. The brake pedal should stop at a higher position with each pump, indicating that the booster is not leaking and the check valve is working properly.
3. Start the engine and allow it to run at idle for a minute or two. Push and hold the brake pedal down with light but steady pressure, and turn the engine off. Continue holding the pedal down for 30 seconds or so. If the pedal does not rise it indicates that the booster is not leaking and the check valve is working properly.
4. Test the vacuum booster check valve. Locate the vacuum booster. It is a dome shaped assembly mounted at the rear of the engine compartment on the driver's side. Now locate the flexible vacuum hose that runs from the engine intake manifold to the vacuum booster. Remove any retaining clips that hold the hose to the intake manifold connection, and slip the hose off the connection. Try to blow into the hose. If the check valve is working properly the air will not flow into the booster. Now try to suck air out of the hose. If the check valve is working properly air will flow out of the booster.
5. Connect an engine vacuum test gauge to the connection on the engine intake manifold. Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two. Check the test gauge vacuum reading. The vacuum should be at least 18 inches. Read More »»
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Test an 88 GMC Brake Booster
The brake power booster uses vacuum generated in the engine intake manifold to amplify the force the driver exerts on the brake pedal, making the driver's job easier when slowing or stopping the vehicle. This is especially important on large vehicles like those made by GMC. Problems with the power booster can create a dangerous situation because the driver may unexpectedly need much greater effort when braking. If the braking seems to be more difficult than normal it is time to test your brake booster. Testing the booster is an easy task that every driver can do to assure herself that it is functioning properly
Procedures:
1. Park your 88 GMC and turn the engine off. Pump the brake pedal slowly five or six times to relieve any residual vacuum in the booster. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. The brake pedal should feel harder and higher than normal. Start the engine. The brake pedal should immediately drop 1/4-inch or so and it should suddenly feel normal. If your booster is not functioning properly the pedal will stay in a high position and will feel hard.
2. Let the engine idle for a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and slowly pump the brake pedal, waiting a couple of seconds between each pump. The pedal should go down to a normal position on the first pump, and then stop a little bit higher with each following pump.
3. Start the engine again and let it idle for a couple of minutes. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. Turn the engine off and continue to hold the brake pedal down for about a minute or so. The pedal should not rise during this time. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park your 88 GMC and turn the engine off. Pump the brake pedal slowly five or six times to relieve any residual vacuum in the booster. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. The brake pedal should feel harder and higher than normal. Start the engine. The brake pedal should immediately drop 1/4-inch or so and it should suddenly feel normal. If your booster is not functioning properly the pedal will stay in a high position and will feel hard.
2. Let the engine idle for a couple of minutes. Turn the engine off and slowly pump the brake pedal, waiting a couple of seconds between each pump. The pedal should go down to a normal position on the first pump, and then stop a little bit higher with each following pump.
3. Start the engine again and let it idle for a couple of minutes. Push the brake pedal down and hold it down with light but steady force. Turn the engine off and continue to hold the brake pedal down for about a minute or so. The pedal should not rise during this time. Read More »»
Remove Extremely Tight Bolts
Bolts that have been in place for a long time often become so rusted they cannot easily be loosened with a wrench or socket. Exposure to moisture makes them even rustier. Trying to force a bolt will likely just damage the head of the bolt, making it even harder to remove. Trying to force off a rusted bolt can also injure a worker's hands, especially if the socket or wrench slips. There are, however, effective and safe ways of loosening tight and rusted bolts.
Procedures:
1. Spray a commercial rust-removing solution or lubricant on and around the bolt, trying to cover as much of the bolt as possible. Wait a few minutes. Loosen the bolt, if possible, with a wrench.
2. Use a propane torch to heat the top of the bolt if it remains stuck. Before applay a flame, though, wipe up or dry off with a rag any remaining rust-removing solution or penetrating oil around the bolt. Flames and petroleum-based solvents aren't a good combination. Heating the top will cause the entire bolt to expand. It should take about a minute.
3. Place a wrench back on top of the bolt and turn counterclockwise. If the bolt becomes too rounded for the wrench to fit properly, tighten a pair of lock pliers onto the head of the bolt. Once it is locked into place, push or pull the pliers counterclockwise to loosen the bolt, using as much force as necessary. If the bolt still will not turn, tap the pliers with a hammer counterclockwise until it loosens.
4. Put a socket onto the head of the bolt if it still will not loosen and then place a short piece of pipe over the socket handle. This piece of pipe is often called either a buster bar or a cheater bar. Grab hold of the buster bar and push or pull counterclockwise until the bolt loosens. Do not use too much force or the socket might break.
5. Cut off the top of the bolt with a hacksaw if it still will not loosen. A cold chisel or reciprocating saw may be used instead. Another way to break the bolt is to use a nut splitter. It will break the nut without damaging the threads of the bolt.
6. Remove the rest of the bolt with a screw extractor. Take the drill bit that came with the screw extractor and place it in a drill. Then drill a hole through the center of the bolt. Place the screw extractor in the recently drilled hole and turn counterclockwise until the bolt is removed. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Spray a commercial rust-removing solution or lubricant on and around the bolt, trying to cover as much of the bolt as possible. Wait a few minutes. Loosen the bolt, if possible, with a wrench.
2. Use a propane torch to heat the top of the bolt if it remains stuck. Before applay a flame, though, wipe up or dry off with a rag any remaining rust-removing solution or penetrating oil around the bolt. Flames and petroleum-based solvents aren't a good combination. Heating the top will cause the entire bolt to expand. It should take about a minute.
3. Place a wrench back on top of the bolt and turn counterclockwise. If the bolt becomes too rounded for the wrench to fit properly, tighten a pair of lock pliers onto the head of the bolt. Once it is locked into place, push or pull the pliers counterclockwise to loosen the bolt, using as much force as necessary. If the bolt still will not turn, tap the pliers with a hammer counterclockwise until it loosens.
4. Put a socket onto the head of the bolt if it still will not loosen and then place a short piece of pipe over the socket handle. This piece of pipe is often called either a buster bar or a cheater bar. Grab hold of the buster bar and push or pull counterclockwise until the bolt loosens. Do not use too much force or the socket might break.
5. Cut off the top of the bolt with a hacksaw if it still will not loosen. A cold chisel or reciprocating saw may be used instead. Another way to break the bolt is to use a nut splitter. It will break the nut without damaging the threads of the bolt.
6. Remove the rest of the bolt with a screw extractor. Take the drill bit that came with the screw extractor and place it in a drill. Then drill a hole through the center of the bolt. Place the screw extractor in the recently drilled hole and turn counterclockwise until the bolt is removed. Read More »»
Replace 330I Rear Pads
The BMW 330I is a luxury car, but the parts wear just like any other automobile. The brake pads and rotors stop the car with friction. Friction wears out the brake pads and you need to replace them. Replacing the pads, however, only takes about 30 minutes per wheel. When you are replacing the brake pads, you should inspect the brake rotors. If you put new pads on rotors that have grooves or other damage, it will not be long before you have to replace the pads again.
Procedures:
1. Park the BMW on a level surface and turn the key off. Open the engine compartment and locate the master brake cylinder. You will find it on the back firewall of the engine compartment, on the driver's side of the car. Siphon about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan. You will need to recycle it later. It is not a good idea to reuse brake fluid in the master cylinder.
2. Place the wheel chocks in front of the front tires. Raise the back end of the BMW with the automobile jack on the side you will be working on. Place a jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench and pull the wheel from the car.
3. Remove the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the brake caliper off the rotor and remove the brake pads. Insert the piston tool in the caliper and twist the handle to seat the piston back into the caliper housing. Clean the caliper thoroughly with the wire brush.
4. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper and push it onto the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Place the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stand from under the BMW. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
5. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and add to it as necessary. Pump the brake pedal until it feel firm. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park the BMW on a level surface and turn the key off. Open the engine compartment and locate the master brake cylinder. You will find it on the back firewall of the engine compartment, on the driver's side of the car. Siphon about half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Place the fluid in the drain pan. You will need to recycle it later. It is not a good idea to reuse brake fluid in the master cylinder.
2. Place the wheel chocks in front of the front tires. Raise the back end of the BMW with the automobile jack on the side you will be working on. Place a jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench and pull the wheel from the car.
3. Remove the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the brake caliper off the rotor and remove the brake pads. Insert the piston tool in the caliper and twist the handle to seat the piston back into the caliper housing. Clean the caliper thoroughly with the wire brush.
4. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper and push it onto the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Place the wheel on the car and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stand from under the BMW. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
5. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and add to it as necessary. Pump the brake pedal until it feel firm. Read More »»
Install a Summit Differential Cover
Differential covers keep the gears and oil inside a vehicle's rear end. Older vehicles use a differential cover with no drain or vent plugs. This makes it necessary to remove the differential cover each time you perform a rear end oil change. Summit Racing differential covers are made from lightweight aluminum and have the plugs required to change oil without removing the cover. This saves time and money when you need to change the oil in your rear differential.
Procedures:
1. Apply the vehicle's parking brake. Set a wheel chock under each of the vehicle's rear wheels.
2. Set a drain pan under the differential housing. Remove the bolts from the differential housing cover with a socket matching the bolt heads attached to a 3/8-inch ratchet handle. Allow the oil to drain from the housing for five to 10 minutes.
3. Scrape the old gasket from the cover mounting flange of the differential house with a metal putty knife. Spray aerosol brake cleaner on the flange. Wipe the flange with a clean rag to remove remaining debris and oil.
4. Apply RTV sealant to the flanges of the Summit differential cover and the differential mounting flange. Press a differential gasket into the sealant, which is on the differential cover flange. Push the cover onto the differential flange.
5. Thread the differential cover bolts through the Summit differential cover and into the differential housing. Tighten the bolts with the socket and 3/8-inch ratchet handle.
6. Remove the top fill plug from the Summit differential cover with a 3/8-inch ratchet handle.
7. Cut the ends off the nozzle of a differential oil tube. Pour the oil into the differential. Repeat the process until the oil level reaches the bottom of the fill hole. Install the fill plug into the Summit differential cover. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Apply the vehicle's parking brake. Set a wheel chock under each of the vehicle's rear wheels.
2. Set a drain pan under the differential housing. Remove the bolts from the differential housing cover with a socket matching the bolt heads attached to a 3/8-inch ratchet handle. Allow the oil to drain from the housing for five to 10 minutes.
3. Scrape the old gasket from the cover mounting flange of the differential house with a metal putty knife. Spray aerosol brake cleaner on the flange. Wipe the flange with a clean rag to remove remaining debris and oil.
4. Apply RTV sealant to the flanges of the Summit differential cover and the differential mounting flange. Press a differential gasket into the sealant, which is on the differential cover flange. Push the cover onto the differential flange.
5. Thread the differential cover bolts through the Summit differential cover and into the differential housing. Tighten the bolts with the socket and 3/8-inch ratchet handle.
6. Remove the top fill plug from the Summit differential cover with a 3/8-inch ratchet handle.
7. Cut the ends off the nozzle of a differential oil tube. Pour the oil into the differential. Repeat the process until the oil level reaches the bottom of the fill hole. Install the fill plug into the Summit differential cover. Read More »»
Saturday, November 27, 2010
Replace the Disc Pads on a Honda Odyssey
The brake pads on the Honda Odyssey work with the rotors and stop your car using friction. The friction wears out the brake pads, which should be replaced periodically. It not a hard project to complete, and you can finish each wheel in about 30 minutes. When you change your brake pads, inspect the rotors. The same friction wears the rotors down, though not as quickly as it does with the brake pads. If you find any grooves on the surface of the rotors, you should deal with those as well
Procedures:
1. Park the Honda on a level surface and turn off the ignition. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Open the engine compartment and siphon 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Put the fluid in the drain pan to recycle later. Raise the Odyssey up with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the van near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench and take the wheel off the van.
2. Remove the brake hose bolt from the bracket using a socket and ratchet. Loosen the lower caliper bolt with the socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper up and remove the brake pads. Clean the caliper surface with the wire brush. Push the piston into the caliper housing with a brake piston tool.
3. Install the new brake pads and push the caliper down onto the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Install the brake hose bolt into the bracket and tighten it with the socket and ratchet. Put the wheel back on the Odyssey and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the van and lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
4. Check the brake fluid and add to the master cylinder as needed. Pump the brake pedal until it is firm to seat the brake pads on the rotors. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park the Honda on a level surface and turn off the ignition. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Open the engine compartment and siphon 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with the turkey baster. Put the fluid in the drain pan to recycle later. Raise the Odyssey up with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the van near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench and take the wheel off the van.
2. Remove the brake hose bolt from the bracket using a socket and ratchet. Loosen the lower caliper bolt with the socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper up and remove the brake pads. Clean the caliper surface with the wire brush. Push the piston into the caliper housing with a brake piston tool.
3. Install the new brake pads and push the caliper down onto the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Install the brake hose bolt into the bracket and tighten it with the socket and ratchet. Put the wheel back on the Odyssey and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the van and lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
4. Check the brake fluid and add to the master cylinder as needed. Pump the brake pedal until it is firm to seat the brake pads on the rotors. Read More »»
Change Brake Pads Step-by-Step
The brake pads are attached to a caliper that apply pressure to the rotor to stop the vehicle. The pads wear out over time and this can cause the metal backing on the pad to scrub the rotor. The pads will not take very much time to replace once the wheels are removed.
Procedures:
1. Ensure the vehicle is parked on a flat and level surface. Set the parking brake to ensure the vehicle does not roll back.
2. Loosen the lugnuts on both front wheels with a tire tool but do not remove them. This will make removing the wheels easier when the vehicle is raised up.
3. Place a jack underneath the front crossmember of the vehicle. Raise the car high enough to place jack stands under the crossmember. Lower the vehicle on to the crossmembers.
4. Remove the lug nuts on the driver side with a tire tool. Take the wheel off the axle and place it to the side.
5. Locate the two bolts at the back of the caliper. The caliper is mounted directly over the rotor. Unscrew the two bolts with a socket wrench. Pull the caliper off by sliding it up and off the rotor.
6. Unclip the brake pads from the caliper. They will come out with a little force. Install one of the brake pads backwards in to the back of the caliper. Place a C-clamp over the old pad and the back of the caliper. Turn the handle on top of the clamp to tighten. The force will push the brake pad in to the piston. The piston will fully retract back in to the caliper. This will make installation easier on the new pads.
7. Place the new pads on to the caliper. They will clip in place once they are pushed in to place.
8. Position the caliper over the rotor. Start both bolts by hand before tightening them. Once both bolts are installed, tighten with a socket wrench.
9. Repeat to replace brake pads on the other wheel. Tighten the wheels on to the hub with a tire tool. Tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern.
10. Raise the vehicle to remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
11. Start the vehicle and allow it to idle. Pump the brake pedal to reset the calipers. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Ensure the vehicle is parked on a flat and level surface. Set the parking brake to ensure the vehicle does not roll back.
2. Loosen the lugnuts on both front wheels with a tire tool but do not remove them. This will make removing the wheels easier when the vehicle is raised up.
3. Place a jack underneath the front crossmember of the vehicle. Raise the car high enough to place jack stands under the crossmember. Lower the vehicle on to the crossmembers.
4. Remove the lug nuts on the driver side with a tire tool. Take the wheel off the axle and place it to the side.
5. Locate the two bolts at the back of the caliper. The caliper is mounted directly over the rotor. Unscrew the two bolts with a socket wrench. Pull the caliper off by sliding it up and off the rotor.
6. Unclip the brake pads from the caliper. They will come out with a little force. Install one of the brake pads backwards in to the back of the caliper. Place a C-clamp over the old pad and the back of the caliper. Turn the handle on top of the clamp to tighten. The force will push the brake pad in to the piston. The piston will fully retract back in to the caliper. This will make installation easier on the new pads.
7. Place the new pads on to the caliper. They will clip in place once they are pushed in to place.
8. Position the caliper over the rotor. Start both bolts by hand before tightening them. Once both bolts are installed, tighten with a socket wrench.
9. Repeat to replace brake pads on the other wheel. Tighten the wheels on to the hub with a tire tool. Tighten the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern.
10. Raise the vehicle to remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
11. Start the vehicle and allow it to idle. Pump the brake pedal to reset the calipers. Read More »»
Thursday, November 25, 2010
How to Replace Wheel Mount Stud
Wheel mounting studs, with their attached lug nuts, are what hold the wheel to the axle. While wheel mount studs will generally last for the life of the vehicle, they can become damaged. A damaged stud should be replaced as soon as possible, as even one damaged stud can put excess strain on the others. Though the stud itself is not expensive, the cost of replacing one can be significant because of labor charges. So doing the work yourself will save will save you some of the expense
Procedure:
1.Engage the parking and block at least one of the three other wheels you will not be working on, both front and back. Place a jack under the vehicle and lift the wheel off the ground.
2. Place a jack stand under the axle or frame and lower the vehicle until it is resting firmly on the jack stand. Remove the tire using a lug wrench.
3. Inspect the wheel to determine if it is a drum or disc brake system. A drum will look like a inverted bowl with the studs sticking through the bottom, whereas a disc will resemble a plate with a hub in the middle. If it is a drum, it will have to be removed. Wiggle it back and forth while pulling it toward you. If it sticks, hit it with a rubber mallet, working your way along the entire surface, striking in opposing spots along the outside edge -- top, bottom, left, right. Repeat until the drum is free.
4. Look behind the wheel's axle while spinning the stud plate or rotor to determine the best position that will give adequate clearance for removal of the stud. This is to make sure the stud will not be blocked on the back side when you drive it out. Tap the stud lightly with a heavy hammer. If the stud does not move freely, spray it with a penetrating lubricant and allow it to work for a few minutes.
5. Mark the threaded end of the new stud with the correction fluid and then spray it with lubricant. Insert the stud into the hole from behind. Rotate the stud while pushing it in with you fingers until the stud lines up and slips into the hole.
6. Place spacers or washers over the stud and twist the lug nut on with your fingers as far as possible. Finish tightening it into place with a socket wrench. Remove the lug nut and spacers and replace the tire (replacing the drum first if it was removed).
7. Drive the vehicle at a safe speed, approximately 15 to 20 m.p.h., for about a mile and check the lug nut on the new stud to be sure it is still tight. Re-tighten if necessary. Read More »»
Procedure:
1.Engage the parking and block at least one of the three other wheels you will not be working on, both front and back. Place a jack under the vehicle and lift the wheel off the ground.
2. Place a jack stand under the axle or frame and lower the vehicle until it is resting firmly on the jack stand. Remove the tire using a lug wrench.
3. Inspect the wheel to determine if it is a drum or disc brake system. A drum will look like a inverted bowl with the studs sticking through the bottom, whereas a disc will resemble a plate with a hub in the middle. If it is a drum, it will have to be removed. Wiggle it back and forth while pulling it toward you. If it sticks, hit it with a rubber mallet, working your way along the entire surface, striking in opposing spots along the outside edge -- top, bottom, left, right. Repeat until the drum is free.
4. Look behind the wheel's axle while spinning the stud plate or rotor to determine the best position that will give adequate clearance for removal of the stud. This is to make sure the stud will not be blocked on the back side when you drive it out. Tap the stud lightly with a heavy hammer. If the stud does not move freely, spray it with a penetrating lubricant and allow it to work for a few minutes.
5. Mark the threaded end of the new stud with the correction fluid and then spray it with lubricant. Insert the stud into the hole from behind. Rotate the stud while pushing it in with you fingers until the stud lines up and slips into the hole.
6. Place spacers or washers over the stud and twist the lug nut on with your fingers as far as possible. Finish tightening it into place with a socket wrench. Remove the lug nut and spacers and replace the tire (replacing the drum first if it was removed).
7. Drive the vehicle at a safe speed, approximately 15 to 20 m.p.h., for about a mile and check the lug nut on the new stud to be sure it is still tight. Re-tighten if necessary. Read More »»
Vented Vs. Non-Vented Brake Rotors
Your vehicle's braking system involves a fairly complex arrangement of parts. One of the most important of those parts is the brake rotor. This can be either vented or non-vented.
Brake Rotor
The rotor is the main stopping mechanism of the disc brake, which is the type of brake used in most modern cars. When the brake pedal is pushed down, the brake pads press against the rotors to stop the vehicle. The amount of stopping force applied to the rotors is proportional to the amount of pressure applied to the brake pedal.
Vented Brake Rotors
Vented brake rotors have holes and grooves drilled through them all around the perimeter of the brake. This allows for faster dissipation of heat that builds up when the brake pads act on the rotor. Vented brake rotors are most often used in large or high-speed vehicles. They are also often made out of ceramic or other strong synthetic materials.
Non-Vented Brake Rotors
Non-vented brake rotors are most commonly made of solid iron. They are better suited for smaller, slower commuter vehicles (small cars, light trucks, small vans). Non-vented brake rotors also tend to last longer than vented ones. Read More »»
Brake Rotor
The rotor is the main stopping mechanism of the disc brake, which is the type of brake used in most modern cars. When the brake pedal is pushed down, the brake pads press against the rotors to stop the vehicle. The amount of stopping force applied to the rotors is proportional to the amount of pressure applied to the brake pedal.
Vented Brake Rotors
Vented brake rotors have holes and grooves drilled through them all around the perimeter of the brake. This allows for faster dissipation of heat that builds up when the brake pads act on the rotor. Vented brake rotors are most often used in large or high-speed vehicles. They are also often made out of ceramic or other strong synthetic materials.
Non-Vented Brake Rotors
Non-vented brake rotors are most commonly made of solid iron. They are better suited for smaller, slower commuter vehicles (small cars, light trucks, small vans). Non-vented brake rotors also tend to last longer than vented ones. Read More »»
Change Front Brakes on a Vulcan 500
Brake pads are an often over-looked, yet important, part of your Kawasaki Vulcan 500, allowing you to slow or stop as quickly and safely as possible at all times. Keeping a watchful eye on the brake pads as the miles grow can prevent the pad's friction-generating material from wearing away to nothing, a situation that can damage the front brake disc as the pad's metal back plate gouges into its surface. Replacing your Vulcan's front brake pads is a basic task that does not require special training, meaning that you can do it yourself within a short period of time.
Procedures:
1. Unscrew the brake caliper bolts from the left fork leg, using a 14 mm socket. Pull the caliper away from the fork leg and off of the front brake disc.
2. Insert a flat screwdriver between the brake pads and press them back against the sides of the caliper. This will force the caliper's pistons into a full-open position.
3. Remove the pair of pull pins from the brake pad pins within the caliper's mouth, using a pair of needle-nose pliers, then pull the brake pad pins out of the caliper.
4. Pull the brake brake pads and their spring clips out of the caliper. Remove the brake pads from the spring clip before discarding them.
5. Remove any dirt and dust building within the caliper's mouth, using brake cleaner.
6. Place the new brake pads around the spring clips and slide them into the caliper. Reinsert the brake pad pins into the caliper and the brake pads. Insert the pull pins into the ends of the brake pad pins.
7. Slide the brake caliper over the front brake disc and against the left fork leg. Screw the caliper bolts into place, using the 14 mm socket.
8. Pump the front brake lever until the brake pads close completely against the front brake disc, indicated by a stiff feel at the lever. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Unscrew the brake caliper bolts from the left fork leg, using a 14 mm socket. Pull the caliper away from the fork leg and off of the front brake disc.
2. Insert a flat screwdriver between the brake pads and press them back against the sides of the caliper. This will force the caliper's pistons into a full-open position.
3. Remove the pair of pull pins from the brake pad pins within the caliper's mouth, using a pair of needle-nose pliers, then pull the brake pad pins out of the caliper.
4. Pull the brake brake pads and their spring clips out of the caliper. Remove the brake pads from the spring clip before discarding them.
5. Remove any dirt and dust building within the caliper's mouth, using brake cleaner.
6. Place the new brake pads around the spring clips and slide them into the caliper. Reinsert the brake pad pins into the caliper and the brake pads. Insert the pull pins into the ends of the brake pad pins.
7. Slide the brake caliper over the front brake disc and against the left fork leg. Screw the caliper bolts into place, using the 14 mm socket.
8. Pump the front brake lever until the brake pads close completely against the front brake disc, indicated by a stiff feel at the lever. Read More »»
Check the Brake Master Cylinder
The brake master cylinder plays a crucial role in a vehicle's stopping ability. The master cylinder is where brake fluid is stored, and brake fluid helps activate the brakes When the master cylinder begins to fail it will cause the brake pedal to feel squishy. This could lead to a failure in the brake system. Check the brake master cylinder at least once every three months for damage, wear and brake fluid level.
Procedure:
1. Clean the outside of the master cylinder with a lint-free rag. You can find the location of the master cylinder in the vehicle's owner's manual, but it is typically located in the engine compartment near the driver's side. If there is a residue of grease on the master cylinder, put some degreaser on the rag and wipe the master cylinder clean with it. Do not put the degreaser on the master cylinder directly to avoid contaminating the brake fluid.
2. Inspect the exterior of the master cylinder for leaks, cracks or holes. Pay close attention to where the hoses attach and inspect the ends of the brake lines for cracking and wear.
3. Pull the cap off of the master cylinder and clean it thoroughly with a rag. Check the level of the brake fluid. Most master cylinders will have an indicator on the side of the cylinder that marks where the fluid should reach. If there is no indicator, the fluid should be about 1/2-inch from the top of the cylinder.
4. Replace the missing brake fluid. Consult the owner's manual for instructions on what kind of brake fluid is required for the vehicle. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Clean the outside of the master cylinder with a lint-free rag. You can find the location of the master cylinder in the vehicle's owner's manual, but it is typically located in the engine compartment near the driver's side. If there is a residue of grease on the master cylinder, put some degreaser on the rag and wipe the master cylinder clean with it. Do not put the degreaser on the master cylinder directly to avoid contaminating the brake fluid.
2. Inspect the exterior of the master cylinder for leaks, cracks or holes. Pay close attention to where the hoses attach and inspect the ends of the brake lines for cracking and wear.
3. Pull the cap off of the master cylinder and clean it thoroughly with a rag. Check the level of the brake fluid. Most master cylinders will have an indicator on the side of the cylinder that marks where the fluid should reach. If there is no indicator, the fluid should be about 1/2-inch from the top of the cylinder.
4. Replace the missing brake fluid. Consult the owner's manual for instructions on what kind of brake fluid is required for the vehicle. Read More »»
Replace the Rear Brake Pads on an Xterra
Replacing the brake pads on your Nissan Xterra is not hard to do. You can expect it to take you about 30 minutes to change the pads on each wheel. Friction is how the brake pads and rotors stop your Xterra. This same friction also wears out the brake pads. How often they need to be changed depends on how much you use the brakes. If you do a lot of driving on the highway, your brakes will last longer than if you do a lot of city driving. When you change the brake pads, inspect the brake rotors to see if you have to change them as well.
Procedures:
1. Park the Xterra on a level, paved surface and turn off the engine. Siphon about ½ of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Raise the back end of the Xterra with an automobile jack on the side you are starting with. Place a jack stand under the SUV and raise it to the frame. Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench and pull the wheel off the SUV.
2. Loosen the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper down and away from the brake rotor. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Insert the piston tool into the caliper. Turn the handle on the tool until it pushes the caliper piston into the housing.
3. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper. Push the caliper up and onto the brake rotor. Tighten the caliper bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the Xterra and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stand from under the SUV and lower the vehicle to the ground with the jack. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder to bring it to the proper level. Pump the brakes until the pedal is firm to seat the brake pads on the rotors. Read More »»
Procedures:
1. Park the Xterra on a level, paved surface and turn off the engine. Siphon about ½ of the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Raise the back end of the Xterra with an automobile jack on the side you are starting with. Place a jack stand under the SUV and raise it to the frame. Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench and pull the wheel off the SUV.
2. Loosen the top bolt on the brake caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper down and away from the brake rotor. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Insert the piston tool into the caliper. Turn the handle on the tool until it pushes the caliper piston into the housing.
3. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper. Push the caliper up and onto the brake rotor. Tighten the caliper bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the Xterra and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stand from under the SUV and lower the vehicle to the ground with the jack. Repeat the procedure on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder to bring it to the proper level. Pump the brakes until the pedal is firm to seat the brake pads on the rotors. Read More »»
Replace a Rear Axle Seal on a Toyota Tacoma
The function of the rear axle shaft seal is to hold the axle assembly firmly to the axle housing. If the seal is damaged, you may see oil leaking from the connection point at the axle and axle housing. If oil is leaking, the axle will soon lose its lubrication and suffer serious damage. If you ignore the problem and the axle is damaged, the job becomes much more difficult and costly. You will have to remove the rear brake assembly to access the axle and seal.
Disassembly
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel of the drive shaft seal you need to replace. Raise the rear of the truck with a jack and support the truck on jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench and take off the wheel.
3. Pull off the brake drum. If it is stuck on, tap the drum along its edges with a mallet and spray penetrating oil around the wheel studs. Spray the entire brake assembly with brake cleaner to remove any harmful brake dust.
4. Release the return spring from the top side of the shoe opposite the parking brake cable. This is the rear shoe. Use a screwdriver to pry the spring out of the hole. Use a hold-down spring tool to remove the hold-down spring from the rear shoe. Place the tool over the spring, rotate it 1/4-turn counterclockwise and release the tool to remove the spring. Remove the rear shoe by disengaging the lower anchor spring from the shoe.
5. Use the hold-down spring tool to remove the hold-down spring from the front shoe. Use a pair of pliers or a small screwdriver to detach and remove the adjusting lever spring attached to the shoe. Remove the adjusting lever. Pull the parking brake lever out of its bracket near the adjuster lever to release it from the wheel assembly. Remove the brake shoe.
6. Unscrew the brake line from the top inner portion of the wheel assembly with a wrench.
7. Use a socket to remove the four backing plate mounting bolt nuts. These are arranged in a square pattern around the axle, behind the backing plate.
8. Pull the axle shaft out of the axle housing. Remove the O-ring from the axle housing and discard it.
9. Use a seal removal tool or large flat head screwdriver to pry out the axle shaft oil seal from the axle housing.
Reassembly
1. Use the seal installer or large socket to drive the new seal into the axle housing. Tap it into place with the mallet until it is seated flush with the axle housing. Lubricate the outer edge of the seal with multi-purpose grease. Place the new O-ring onto the seal and coat it lightly with grease.
2. Coat the axle with oil and re-insert it into the axle housing. Replace the four backing plate retainer nuts.
3. Install the brake line hose and tighten it with the wrench.
4. Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Replace the front brake shoe. Replace the emergency brake into its retainer.
5. Connect the anchor spring to the bottom of the two shoes. Rotate the rear shoe into place. Attach both hold-down pins and springs into place with the hold-down spring tool.
6. Connect the adjuster and the return spring at the top of the brake shoes.
7. Replace the brake drum over the brake assembly. Remount the wheel and reinstall the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
8. Drive the vehicle forward and backwards, frequently pressing the brake pedal. This will allow the rear brake self-adjusters to adjust the brakes. Read More »»
Disassembly
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel of the drive shaft seal you need to replace. Raise the rear of the truck with a jack and support the truck on jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench and take off the wheel.
3. Pull off the brake drum. If it is stuck on, tap the drum along its edges with a mallet and spray penetrating oil around the wheel studs. Spray the entire brake assembly with brake cleaner to remove any harmful brake dust.
4. Release the return spring from the top side of the shoe opposite the parking brake cable. This is the rear shoe. Use a screwdriver to pry the spring out of the hole. Use a hold-down spring tool to remove the hold-down spring from the rear shoe. Place the tool over the spring, rotate it 1/4-turn counterclockwise and release the tool to remove the spring. Remove the rear shoe by disengaging the lower anchor spring from the shoe.
5. Use the hold-down spring tool to remove the hold-down spring from the front shoe. Use a pair of pliers or a small screwdriver to detach and remove the adjusting lever spring attached to the shoe. Remove the adjusting lever. Pull the parking brake lever out of its bracket near the adjuster lever to release it from the wheel assembly. Remove the brake shoe.
6. Unscrew the brake line from the top inner portion of the wheel assembly with a wrench.
7. Use a socket to remove the four backing plate mounting bolt nuts. These are arranged in a square pattern around the axle, behind the backing plate.
8. Pull the axle shaft out of the axle housing. Remove the O-ring from the axle housing and discard it.
9. Use a seal removal tool or large flat head screwdriver to pry out the axle shaft oil seal from the axle housing.
Reassembly
1. Use the seal installer or large socket to drive the new seal into the axle housing. Tap it into place with the mallet until it is seated flush with the axle housing. Lubricate the outer edge of the seal with multi-purpose grease. Place the new O-ring onto the seal and coat it lightly with grease.
2. Coat the axle with oil and re-insert it into the axle housing. Replace the four backing plate retainer nuts.
3. Install the brake line hose and tighten it with the wrench.
4. Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Replace the front brake shoe. Replace the emergency brake into its retainer.
5. Connect the anchor spring to the bottom of the two shoes. Rotate the rear shoe into place. Attach both hold-down pins and springs into place with the hold-down spring tool.
6. Connect the adjuster and the return spring at the top of the brake shoes.
7. Replace the brake drum over the brake assembly. Remount the wheel and reinstall the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.
8. Drive the vehicle forward and backwards, frequently pressing the brake pedal. This will allow the rear brake self-adjusters to adjust the brakes. Read More »»
Monday, November 22, 2010
Install the Rear Pads in a 1987 Toyota GT-S
The 1987 Toyota GT-S was ahead of its time. It wasn't until the 1990s that rear disc brakes become popular on import automobiles while disc brakes were relegated to the front of the braking system. This makes changing the rear brake pads relatively easy compared to pulling apart brake drums. You can replace the pads with basic tools, and it should only take about 10 minutes per side to do.
Procedures:
1.Pop the hood and remove the cap from the master cylinder located on the driver's side firewall.
2. Place a jack under the frame directly in front of the driver's side rear wheel. Loosen the lug nuts with a tire iron then raise the Toyota with a jack until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the GT-S onto the jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off the hub.
3. Remove the two bolts that secure the brake caliper to the axle housing with a socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper off the rotor.
4. Position a pair of pliers onto the rear brake pad and squeeze the piston into the caliper.
5. Pull the brake pads out of the caliper and place the new pads inside the caliper.
6. Hold the pads in place and slide the caliper back onto the rotor.
7. Secure the caliper with the two bolts, using the socket and ratchet.
8. Remount the wheel onto the wheel studs and tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron.
9. Raise the Toyota with the jack, remove the jack stand and lower the vehicle to the ground. Double-check the lug nuts for tightness then repeat the process with the other rear brake.
10. Close the lid on the master cylinder.
Read More »»
Procedures:
1.Pop the hood and remove the cap from the master cylinder located on the driver's side firewall.
2. Place a jack under the frame directly in front of the driver's side rear wheel. Loosen the lug nuts with a tire iron then raise the Toyota with a jack until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the GT-S onto the jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off the hub.
3. Remove the two bolts that secure the brake caliper to the axle housing with a socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper off the rotor.
4. Position a pair of pliers onto the rear brake pad and squeeze the piston into the caliper.
5. Pull the brake pads out of the caliper and place the new pads inside the caliper.
6. Hold the pads in place and slide the caliper back onto the rotor.
7. Secure the caliper with the two bolts, using the socket and ratchet.
8. Remount the wheel onto the wheel studs and tighten the lug nuts with the tire iron.
9. Raise the Toyota with the jack, remove the jack stand and lower the vehicle to the ground. Double-check the lug nuts for tightness then repeat the process with the other rear brake.
10. Close the lid on the master cylinder.
Read More »»
Change the Brakes on a Caravan
Dodge Caravan uses two different braking systems to help you stop your minivan. The front brakes are disc brakes that include a brake rotor, a caliper and two brake pads. The back brakes are drum brakes that consist of two brake shoes and a large metal drum that fits over the shoes. The process for replacing the different brake systems differ greatly
Getting Started
1. Open the hood and remove the cap from the master cylinder.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on all four tires using the tire iron supplied with the caravan.
3. Place a jack under the frame directly behind the front driver's tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the frame. Repeat this process with the passenger side front.
4. Place a jack under the frame directly in front of the driver's side rear tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the jack stand. Repeat this process with the passenger side rear.
5. Remove the lug nuts and pull all four tires off the Caravan.
Front Brakes
1. Remove the two bolts that secure the caliper to the axle assembly. Pull the rotor off the brake caliper.
2. Place a pair of pliers on the back brake pad on the caliper and squeeze the piston into the caliper to make room for the thicker brake pads. Hang the brake caliper from the suspension using a wire tie.
3. Pry the cap off the hub with a small screwdriver, remove the nut that secures the rotor to the hub using a socket and ratchet and then pull the rotor off the wheel hub.
4. Slide the new rotor onto the axle hub, secure it using the nut, socket and ratchet and push the hub cover back onto the end of the hub.
5. Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and place the new ones into the caliper. Slide the caliper over the rotor and secure it using the two bolts, socket and ratchet. Repeat this process with the other front disc brake.
Rear Brakes
1. Place the fingers of a drum brake puller around the drum brake and place the threaded post against the axle hub. Turn the threaded post clockwise to pull the drum off the axle hub. If you do not own a brake puller, you can rent one from an auto parts store like Napa, Autozone or Advanced Auto.
2. Remove the spring from each of the two brake shoes using a pair of pliers. Pull the brake shoes off the axle hub.
3. Place the new brake shoes onto the axle hub and secure each one using the spring and your pliers.
4. Slide the new drum onto the wheel studs and axle hub. Pound the brake drum on using a rubber mallet. Repeat this process with the other rear brake.
Finishing Up
1. Place the cap back onto the master cylinder and close the engine hood.
2. Place the wheels on the vehicle, thread the lug nuts onto the wheel studs by hand and tighten each lug nut a quarter turn using the tire iron.
3. Jack up each corner of the Caravan using the jack, remove the jack stand and lower each corner to the ground. Tighten all of the lug nuts using the tire iron.
Read More »»
Getting Started
1. Open the hood and remove the cap from the master cylinder.
2. Loosen the lug nuts on all four tires using the tire iron supplied with the caravan.
3. Place a jack under the frame directly behind the front driver's tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the frame. Repeat this process with the passenger side front.
4. Place a jack under the frame directly in front of the driver's side rear tire. Raise the Caravan until you can place a jack stand under the frame. Lower the Caravan onto the jack stand. Repeat this process with the passenger side rear.
5. Remove the lug nuts and pull all four tires off the Caravan.
Front Brakes
1. Remove the two bolts that secure the caliper to the axle assembly. Pull the rotor off the brake caliper.
2. Place a pair of pliers on the back brake pad on the caliper and squeeze the piston into the caliper to make room for the thicker brake pads. Hang the brake caliper from the suspension using a wire tie.
3. Pry the cap off the hub with a small screwdriver, remove the nut that secures the rotor to the hub using a socket and ratchet and then pull the rotor off the wheel hub.
4. Slide the new rotor onto the axle hub, secure it using the nut, socket and ratchet and push the hub cover back onto the end of the hub.
5. Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and place the new ones into the caliper. Slide the caliper over the rotor and secure it using the two bolts, socket and ratchet. Repeat this process with the other front disc brake.
Rear Brakes
1. Place the fingers of a drum brake puller around the drum brake and place the threaded post against the axle hub. Turn the threaded post clockwise to pull the drum off the axle hub. If you do not own a brake puller, you can rent one from an auto parts store like Napa, Autozone or Advanced Auto.
2. Remove the spring from each of the two brake shoes using a pair of pliers. Pull the brake shoes off the axle hub.
3. Place the new brake shoes onto the axle hub and secure each one using the spring and your pliers.
4. Slide the new drum onto the wheel studs and axle hub. Pound the brake drum on using a rubber mallet. Repeat this process with the other rear brake.
Finishing Up
1. Place the cap back onto the master cylinder and close the engine hood.
2. Place the wheels on the vehicle, thread the lug nuts onto the wheel studs by hand and tighten each lug nut a quarter turn using the tire iron.
3. Jack up each corner of the Caravan using the jack, remove the jack stand and lower each corner to the ground. Tighten all of the lug nuts using the tire iron.
Read More »»
Replace Disc Pads
Replacing disc brake pads is not hard to do. The procedure is the same for both front and rear wheels, with only some minor differences. If your car has both front and rear disc brakes, you can follow the same procedure for all wheels. The friction that brake pads and rotors create, when stopping your car, wears down the brake pads. The project is easy enough to do in your driveway, so there is no need to take your car to a repair shop to replace the brakes. Each wheel will take about 30 minutes to do.
Procedure:
1. Open the engine compartment and remove ½ the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Raise the vehicle with an automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench and pull the wheel from the car.
2. Loosen the bottom bolt on the caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper away from the rotor and remove the old brake pads. Force the caliper piston back into the housing with a piston tool. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper.
3. Push the caliper into place on the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle and lower it to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder as needed. Pump the brakes a few times until the pedal feels firm Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Open the engine compartment and remove ½ the brake fluid from the master cylinder with a turkey baster. Put the fluid in a drain pan for recycling. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Raise the vehicle with an automobile jack. Place a jack stand under the car near the jacking point and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench and pull the wheel from the car.
2. Loosen the bottom bolt on the caliper with a socket and ratchet. Pivot the caliper away from the rotor and remove the old brake pads. Force the caliper piston back into the housing with a piston tool. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper.
3. Push the caliper into place on the rotor. Tighten the bolt with the socket and ratchet. Remount the wheel onto the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the vehicle and lower it to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.
4. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder as needed. Pump the brakes a few times until the pedal feels firm Read More »»
Change Back Brake Shoes on a 1999 Saturn SC1
Worn or damaged brake shoes are a safety hazard if not replaced immediately. Worn or damaged shoes will leave most the braking to the front brakes which are often unable to properly handle the total weight of the vehicle when stopping. On a 1999 Saturn SC1, the brake shoes on the back of the vehicle can be changed quickly by most backyard mechanics with a few simple tools. It is helpful to do one side at a time, using the complete assembly as a guide when installing the other side
Procedure:
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle with an automotive jack and support it with jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts with a socket wrench and pull the wheel from the wheel studs.
3. Pull the front of the brake drum assembly from the assembly.
4. Remove the adjuster spring, the dark-colored spring near the top of the drum assembly, from the front and rear brake shoes with needle-nose pliers.
5. Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and detach the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
6. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the front brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
7. Pull the front brake shoe from the backing plate.
8. Disengage the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers and remove them from the backing plate.
9. Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
10. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the rear brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
11. Pull the rear brake shoe slightly away from the backing plate to access the parking brake cable. Detach the plug on the end of the cable from the parking brake lever on the brake shoe with needle-nose pliers.
12. Detach the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe, removing the c-clip and washer with a screwdriver.
13. Place the parking brake lever on the new rear brake shoe, installing the c-clip and washer to hold the lever to the shoe.
14. Apply high-temperature grease to the six raised contact points on the inside of the backing plate.
15. Pull the end of the parking brake cable to access the plug at the end of the cable and attach it to the plug on the end of the parking brake lever in the rear brake shoe.
16. Place the rear brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
17. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
18. Place the front brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the front brake shoe hold-down spring and the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
19. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring to the front braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
20. Place the wheel on the wheel studs and install the lug nuts with a torque wrench, tightening them to 100 foot-lbs.
21. Repeats Steps 2 through 21 to replace the brake shoes on the other side of the vehicle.
22. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle with the automotive jack. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle with an automotive jack and support it with jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts with a socket wrench and pull the wheel from the wheel studs.
3. Pull the front of the brake drum assembly from the assembly.
4. Remove the adjuster spring, the dark-colored spring near the top of the drum assembly, from the front and rear brake shoes with needle-nose pliers.
5. Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and detach the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
6. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the front brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
7. Pull the front brake shoe from the backing plate.
8. Disengage the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers and remove them from the backing plate.
9. Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
10. Unscrew and remove the washer on top of the rear brake shoe with a socket wrench and retaining pin, pulling the pin from the rear of the backing plate.
11. Pull the rear brake shoe slightly away from the backing plate to access the parking brake cable. Detach the plug on the end of the cable from the parking brake lever on the brake shoe with needle-nose pliers.
12. Detach the parking brake lever from the rear brake shoe, removing the c-clip and washer with a screwdriver.
13. Place the parking brake lever on the new rear brake shoe, installing the c-clip and washer to hold the lever to the shoe.
14. Apply high-temperature grease to the six raised contact points on the inside of the backing plate.
15. Pull the end of the parking brake cable to access the plug at the end of the cable and attach it to the plug on the end of the parking brake lever in the rear brake shoe.
16. Place the rear brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the rear brake shoe hold-down spring with needle-nose pliers.
17. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring from the rear braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
18. Place the front brake shoe into the backing plate and install the rear brake shoe retaining pin through the rear of the backing plate. Install the washer on top of the brake shoe with a socket wrench and attach the front brake shoe hold-down spring and the upper return spring with needle-nose pliers.
19. Attach the adjuster lever and upper return spring to the front braking shoe with needle-nose pliers.
20. Place the wheel on the wheel studs and install the lug nuts with a torque wrench, tightening them to 100 foot-lbs.
21. Repeats Steps 2 through 21 to replace the brake shoes on the other side of the vehicle.
22. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle with the automotive jack. Read More »»
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Change Brake Pads and Calipers
Brake pads are replaced multiple times throughout the life of a vehicle. Calipers sometimes need replacing when the piston will no longer move, or the seals have begun to leak, due to age. The caliper squeezes the brake pads against the brake rotor, causing the vehicle to slow down.
Procedure:
1. Break loose the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Lift the vehicle into the air, with the floor jack, and place jack stands under the frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the floor jack, until the vehicle sits on the jack stands. Shake the vehicle to ensure the vehicle is safely sitting on the jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts, and pull the tire away from the vehicle. Place a drain pan underneath the wheel hub, to catch the brake fluid that will be lost from the brake lines.
3. Remove the rubber brake line from the caliper with the wrench set. Loosely wrap mechanic's wire around the rubber line, and angle it upward, securing it to the suspension. Ensure the rubber line does not kink.
4. Remove the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper away from the caliper-mounting bracket, and empty any brake fluid into the drain pan.
5. Pour brake fluid into the new caliper, and attach the rubber brake line to the new caliper. Place the new brake pads into position on the new caliper, and slide the caliper into position. Secure the caliper, by installing the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet.
6. Instruct your assistant to pump the brakes, until a firm pedal is achieved. Release the bleeder valve on the new caliper with the wrench set, and allow the air and fluid to run out the valve. Instruct the helper to hold the pedal to the floor, until the bleeder valve has been tightened. Repeat the process, until no more air comes from the bleeder valve. Read More »»
Procedure:
1. Break loose the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Lift the vehicle into the air, with the floor jack, and place jack stands under the frame rails of the vehicle. Lower the floor jack, until the vehicle sits on the jack stands. Shake the vehicle to ensure the vehicle is safely sitting on the jack stands.
2. Remove the lug nuts, and pull the tire away from the vehicle. Place a drain pan underneath the wheel hub, to catch the brake fluid that will be lost from the brake lines.
3. Remove the rubber brake line from the caliper with the wrench set. Loosely wrap mechanic's wire around the rubber line, and angle it upward, securing it to the suspension. Ensure the rubber line does not kink.
4. Remove the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper away from the caliper-mounting bracket, and empty any brake fluid into the drain pan.
5. Pour brake fluid into the new caliper, and attach the rubber brake line to the new caliper. Place the new brake pads into position on the new caliper, and slide the caliper into position. Secure the caliper, by installing the two caliper-mounting bolts with the socket and ratchet.
6. Instruct your assistant to pump the brakes, until a firm pedal is achieved. Release the bleeder valve on the new caliper with the wrench set, and allow the air and fluid to run out the valve. Instruct the helper to hold the pedal to the floor, until the bleeder valve has been tightened. Repeat the process, until no more air comes from the bleeder valve. Read More »»
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